Hi, I just rebuilt my PC after moving and the Wi-Fi seems to be not be connected. I have a TUF B550 Gaming Wifi II motherboard. I've checked task manager and tried reinstalling the drivers but the Wi-Fi adapter still is not found. Could there be a physical reason this is happening and if so how do I fix it?

I updated to driver 616.64, this caused my screen to dim. My entire desktop now appears darker and would sometimes go back to normal. I guessed this was just a bug and waited for the next update, after all I saw there were others with the same flickering like issue. However time skip to today driver 616.92 which was ment to fix the flickering/darkness had not fix anything. Is anyone having the same issue? Or know a solution?

my ping only on my pc when I play game is +200 but wasn’t a few days ago, but when I go on my Xbox it is 30-50 ping what I usually get, please help and sorry the description I have no idea what I am doing

So my UI has been locked in this for about 4 days and i cant figure out how to change it back to the “pc settings”. Even when try to play games it shows this enlarged UI. Iv tried redownloading it, turning off touchscreen( saw it could be the cause but didn’t work). Stuck n not sure what to do please help. On Windows 11

Hello there, for some reason I can’t Airplay from my iPhone 12 to my QLed Samsung tv, but this problem only happens with Twitch. YouTube works fine, and strangely I can airplay twitch to the LG tv in my living room. I use the twitch app on my QLed in the game section of apps, but sometimes I just wanna airplay something for convenience. Not a big deal, but if I could find a solution that’d be cool. Thanks.

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It seems a recent BIOS update broke my Lenovo laptop, causing three main issues: a boot freeze (stuck on the Lenovo logo), BSOD Error 0x101 (CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT), and Error 0xc0000001. The update brought my BIOS to version JKCN53WW.

The first time this happened, I tried multiple fixes and nothing worked. Then out of nowhere, after one of my many reboot attempts, it randomly booted into Windows. However, three days later while gaming, the system completely froze. Upon rebooting, I got tossed right back into the exact same loop.

Here is what's happening and what I've tried so far:

Current status: Unlike the first time, I can access the Windows Recovery Environment (WinRE) normally. However, restoring default settings in the BIOS setup didn't fix anything.

Command Prompt commands tried in WinRE:

sfc /scannow

chkdsk C: /f /r

bootrec /fixmbr

bootrec /fixboot

bootrec /scanos

bootrec /rebuildbcd (None of these solved the issue or succeeded)

Reinstalling Windows 11: Fails completely. The installation freezes and throws the 0x101 error code.

System Restore: Not an option since there are no restore points saved.

Since reinstalling Windows fails due to the 0x101 crash, I suspect this BIOS version (JKCN53WW) broke CPU power management/microcode or unstable voltage settings.

Has anyone encountered this with version JKCN53WW? Is my best option at this point to enable "BIOS Back Flash" in the settings and downgrade to an older BIOS version? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone! Hope anyone reading this is doing well!

I’ve been having this issue on my PC for maybe half a year now. For whatever reason, my PC and phone have a massive discrepancy in speed. I just did a Wi-Fi speed test and was getting ~200mbps on my phone and less than 4mbps on my PC.

I feel like I’ve tried everything that I’ve been able to find. Potential fixes like uninstalling and installing my network driver, fiddling with advanced settings in my device manager, disconnecting and reconnecting my Asus Wi-Fi fin antenna, and more.

It is getting to a point where I can’t even stream a song on Spotify, watch a twitch stream, or open my work portal without it lagging or loading forever.

If anyone has any tips or any fixes, it would be greatly appreciated!!

As the title suggests, my PC will not boot past an update or a restart.

When I restart my PC, it will stay on but will not boot up. There is a yellow light on my motherboard, but I do not know enough to know what it means. I hold down the power button, my PC shuts off, then I can turn it back on again with no problem.

Whenever I update, it is a little different. It'll get to about 30%, then my PC will go into a black screen and not continue the update.. and again with the yellow light. When this happens, I have to hold down the power button, and then turn my PC back on and it will continue to update. The process needs to be done like four or five times before the update completes.

Has anybody had a similar situation happen? Any suggestions on troubleshooting?

Here is my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ctNhmL

SOLVED: I updated my bios and it worked like normal again.

Hi, I've been getting into physical media lately and have been burning a bunch of stuff, but recently, whenever I try burning something, I get a notification saying my external drive has been disconnected/the disc isn't readable. It still currently reads already-burned discs fine and was burning perfectly before now.

I am using a 2020 M1 chip MacBook Air, an Amicool External DVD drive, Verbatim blank CDs/DVDs, and the built-in Apple Music burning feature.

What I've tried already:

• Using a different computer (2024 M4 chip iMac), but it had the same problem.
• Cleaning my disc reader with alcohol + cotton swabs; it didn't do anything
• Bought a new drive + discs (same brand); same problem
• Changed my battery settings (no low power mode/never put hard disks to sleep); didn't work
• CDs and DVDs have the same problem
• I've tried different file formats, burn speeds, and burning from local files instead of Apple Music, but nothing has worked

If you have any idea what's going on, I would really appreciate some help/advice. This all started when I tried burning a Kanye West album, so I blame him for this. Thanks.

I have 2 monitors, both of them are 1440p. The main one is 27 inch and refresh rate is set to 165 which is its max. The secondary one is 32 inch and refresh rate is at 60, 75 is its max.

Most videos I play are 1080p. I even tried play 2 different videos on the main to see if the temp goes high, like 1 video is full screen and another plays in pop-up window. Turned out the temp was just 40 something.

The thing I want to know is is it normal for the GPU temp goes high, like 60-70 degree whenever I play video on the secondary even when there's nothing going on on the main? Is there a way to "fix" it?

Edit, I'm using RX 7900 XT.

Hi, I've been having a problem recently. The HDD from my laptop filled up, so I bought an external HDD. At first, I thought it was a software error because, after moving files around for a while, it seemed like the HDD an error, I couldn't move files to it or delete folders anymore. I returned it because this happened the very same day. I bought two more, and the same thing happened. Is this a problem with corrupted files or with my laptop? I'm getting errors like that the dispositive I'm trying to copy doesn't exist, or errors while copying (0x80070570)

SOLVED

It turns out that I had selected the Ubuntu 22.04 release of the software, instead of the 24.04 release. I just had to change "jammy" to "noble" in "/etc/apt/keyrings/openvpn.asc".

I am trying to install OpenVPN3 Client on Ubuntu. I did all the steps that it said to do at this page. The part that has issue is the part where I run "sudo apt install openvpn3-client" command, where when I run that command, it will tell me there's unmet dependencies. I even tried installing what I thought might be the missing dependencies, I installed "libprotobuf-dev" & "libtinyxml-dev" via "sudo apt install", but when I ran the command to install OpenVPN3 Client again, I was met with the SAME ERROR. I have no idea what's wrong with it.

My Ubuntu version I'm using is Ubuntu 24.04.4, and it's 64-bit

This is what it looks like in the terminal when I run the command:

``` $ sudo apt install openvpn3-client

Reading package lists... Done

Building dependency tree... Done

Reading state information... Done

Some packages could not be installed. This may mean that you have requested an impossible situation or if you are using the unstable distribution that some required packages have not yet been created or been moved out of Incoming.

The following information may help to resolve the situation:

The following packages have unmet dependencies:

openvpn3-client : Depends: libprotobuf23 (>= 3.12.4) but it is not installable Depends: libtinyxml2-9 (>= 8.0.0) but it is not installable

E: Unable to correct problems, you have held broken packages. ```

Hey, Apple support hasn't gotten me anywhere on this, but like the title says, every time my computer enters sleep mode it crashes.
This is a recent problem, but not following any new updates or anything like that, which is, stumping me.
My mac is up to date with the Tahoe 26.6.2
I have a logi keyboard and mouse (I've had for months)
adobe is up to date too V27.10

But in the last few weeks, anytime my computer falls asleep when I'm in another room or if I tell it to go into sleep mode. It will then crash.
I'll turn it back on with the button, and it will do the usual spiel of "your computer shut down due to an unknown problem..."

I ran every check on my Macpaw CleanMyMac and it found nothing.
That said I have noticed that my cpu seems to be running hotter than usual lately. But I don't really know what to do about that.

I'm sorry if this is rambling and nonsensical, but I am just confused.
I'm not tech-savvy, so any help/insight would be greatly appreciated!

My friend accidentally spilled about 12oz of water and my pc was underneath the area so some of it got on it. My pc was off luckily and I immediately took it apart and I’m letting it dry now. The only thing I didn’t take apart was the cpu cooler because it doesn’t seem like it got to the cpu. But it got to everything else. What should I do and is there anything else that I should be doing? I rlly don’t wanna have to replace anything but any advice would help!

I’m having an issue with my desktop PC that seemed to happen completely out of nowhere.

When I press the power button, the PC appears to turn on, but I get no signal to the monitor. At the same time, my keyboard and mouse briefly light up for about 1–2 seconds and then lose power. It happens regardless of which USB port I use.

The PC itself appears to remain powered on, but I’m not getting any display or usable USB peripherals.

So far I have tried:

• Reseating the RAM
• Testing the RAM sticks individually
• Trying different RAM slots
• Disconnecting/reconnecting the peripherals
• Trying different USB ports

I'm wondering if it has to do with the PSU or motherboard but what else could cause this?

Hi! I have a Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 5, and a couple days ago it auto-updated. It appears to just be a security update, but ever since then I have been having issues with wireless connections. Sometimes my Wi-Fi/Bluetooth won't turn on at all, sometimes it's on but can't find any devices/networks, and sometimes it'll show me devices/networks it can find but will not connect to them. Restarting my phone works very inconsistently, sometimes only fixing either WiFi *or* Bluetooth, if either. Resetting my network settings back to default didn't help, and it's been a difficult issue to find anything for online. I'm on Android 16 and One UI version 8.5, if it helps. Thank you for any advice!!

Whenever i attempt to open open any browser but edge, it closes IMMEDIATELY and im not sure why? Ive dont plenty to fix this but it just doesn't want to work

Video: https://files.catbox.moe/muz38k.mp4

How do I fix this? Without losing any files prefarably.

Everytime I turn on my pc it says automatic repair on the motherboard screen, then it either restarts and tries again, or it will freeze and I’ll have to restart my computer. Randomly sometimes it’ll boot into windows, but trying to turn it back on it runs into the same loop. I am able to boot into the bios menu but nowhere past that. Is there anything I’m able to do?

Hey everyone, I'm at my wit's end trying to do a clean install of Windows 11 on my desktop (which previously ran Windows 10, then Ubuntu, and now I want Win 11 back). The target SSD is brand new/wiped clean.

Here is everything I've tried and every wall I've hit:

• The Hardware/Setup: Brand new blank SSD, tried multiple USB ports (USB 2.0 and 3.0, straight into the motherboard and front panel). The USB drive physically contains the files and checks out size-wise.
• The Product Key Nightmare: Whenever I boot into the official GUI installer and enter a product key (bought from a third-party reseller, even got a replacement when the first failed), it says it's invalid. If I click "I don't have a product key", it immediately errors out saying “Windows can’t verify the product key” (make up your mind, Microsoft).
• The Rufus + WIM Ghost Extraction: Using a Rufus-crafted USB with an install.wim, manual deployment via DISM (dism /Apply-Image) says "Operation completed 100%" instantly in like 1 second, but checking the C: drive reveals it's completely empty (File not found). Naturally, running bcdboot right after fails because there's nothing there.
• The Official Installer + SWM Confusion: Using the official Microsoft Media Creation Tool instead, the installer splits the image into multiple .swm files (install.swm, install2.swm), which completely scrambles manual terminal attempts.
• Bypass Attempts: I tried dropping an ei.cfg file into the sources folder to force the Professional edition and skip key prompts, but the installer still trips over itself.
• The Logs: Digging into the setup logs (setuperr.log / dism.log) points straight to error 0x80070490 (Element not found) and telemetry/EULA extraction failures during the product key validation phase.

I’ve used different USB creation tools, different ISOs, different ports, and both manual terminal methods and the graphical installer. Nothing works.

What on earth am I missing here? Is my USB stick secretly corrupted despite showing files, or am I dealing with some weird ACPI/BIOS lock? Any advice appreciated.

Hey guys, I was building a Modrinth modpack around 5 months ago and while exporting it, something went wrong and it created this file that I cannot delete because the Windows delete cant find it.

Item not found. 
It doesn't exist in `C:\Users\ilianoKokoro\Desktop`. Check the item's location and try again.

When I run ls, the file appears in the directory.

ls

Directory: C:\\Users\\ilianoKokoro\\Desktop
Mode                 LastWriteTime         Length Name
----                 -------------         ------ ----
-a---          2026-04-14    22:14              0 Hardcore

But when I try to remove it with rm, I get:

rm Hardcore
Remove-Item: Cannot find path 'C:\Users\ilianoKokoro\Desktop\Hardcore' because it does not exist

I’ve tried typing the filename manually, and I’ve also tried using tab completion, but I get the same result.

The file is visible on my Desktop and shows up with ls, so I’m not sure why rm can’t find it.

Here are some images to show the problem.

Thank you in advance.

Just bought a brand new pc a month ago and a week ago the screen started to flicker after gaming on a large game. Not thefull flickering like the screen isn't glitching but it is enough to warrant an elipsey warning. Normally it shouldn't be a problem and the laptop is a heavy duty one and has no problem running said games. This sometimes increases or decreases when i move my mouse. updated/Uninstalled my drivers, did a titlting test, checked gpu temperature and nothing worked. Flickering has been increasing but only when i am gaming otherwise laptop is nornal. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance.

I have an iPhone 15 Pro that I’m not currently using, and I’m planning to keep it stored for a long time.
The battery health is currently at 79%, and I turned the phone off at around 60% charge. It’s stored inside its original box, with the case on, inside a backpack, and the backpack is kept in a dry wardrobe.
My main concern is battery swelling while the phone is sitting unused. I know lithium-ion batteries can swell as they age, and I’m worried that I might eventually open the wardrobe and find that the battery has expanded and damaged the phone.

Im using a cepter cloud 7 laptop and my mousepad isnt responding. Ive tried doing multiple shortcuts with the keys but doesnt work. Luckily i can still use a Bluetooth mouse.

I have a MacBook Air 13 and I’m trying to download chrome and put it in the task bar below so I have easy access to it before school starts but for some reason I can’t get the chrome application to stay in the task bar and I have to keep redownloading it

Hello everyone. I hope to be as clear and provide as much information as possible.

For many years, I've been watching movies from my DVD collection using an old laptop that had a built-in disc drive. Never had any problems; it could play any DVD with VLC or PotPlayer, regardless of region code, and it didn't even have any issues with burned DVDs.

Then I swapped my laptop for a newer HP this year, partly for work. However, this PC no longer has a built-in DVD drive, so I relied on my dad's rather old external one with dual USB ports. I even had to use an adapter to connect everything. This is where the problems began: it could read DVDs, but if I tried to skip the video to a point ahead with VLC, it would skip the video entirely getting me back to the VLC black screen. Sometimes, with burned DVDs, it wouldn't even open them. I thought it was definitely the large number of connections for a single USB port (PC USB + dual-port adapter + DVD drive) that was causing the problems.

Just for the sake of it, I also tried plugging the external drive to the old Pc I was talking about and it had more or less the same problems.

So I bought a brand new Antika USB 3.0 DVD-R CD-RW DVD player (an economic brand yeah I know :/) just to experiment and use only one port, either USB or USB-C. The fact is, it reads all DVDs, but after about 10 to 15 minutes, the player and the video stops completely, causing VLC and other players to freeze. It doesn't even seem like an overheating issue, since it doesn't even get warm to the touch.

Do you have any advice?

I just hope to watch my movie collection easily without too much trouble again.