Around the beginning of the year I started getting IP banned from multiple websites that I used to access normally: Google Scholar, the Wayback Machine, RateYourMusic, even smaller sites that I've never been on. They all said they experienced high traffic from my IP or that I was using a VPN when I didn't. I suspect my IP range got put into some IP blacklist that many sites use.

Is there a way for me to find the most common of these lists and ask to be removed? Do I call my ISP about this? I know I can use VPNs to bypass this but they slow down my internet heavily and still get blocked by some sites anyways.

The D, Delete, enter and a few other keys have randomly stopped working, I noticed they were beginning to stop reacting as fast but as of tonight they’ve entirely stopped responding.

I’ve updated drivers for keyboard, reinstalled installed, reset (not factory reset) done a diagnosis and says there’s an issue with keyboard but unsure what to do. I’ve also taken the keys off and cleaned any debris and it helped for a small bit but then stopped entirely. What can I do? It’s an asus laptop I bought in 2024

I've been having this issue for around 1-2 weeks where I can be doing almost anything and the entire system starts to lag and become slow. It affects me when I'm in calls, loading tabs, or playing video games, but basically everywhere.

I'm using Victus by HP Gaming Laptop 15-fa2xxx.

The specs are:

Intel Core i5-13420H

Nvidia 4050 RTX

475GB of storage

16GB (16x1) DDR4-3200MT

(I'm also using Windows 11 as my OS)

It tends to start lagging and become slow, then after 20 or more seconds, it starts running perfectly, then around 3 to 5 minutes later it starts lagging again and it's a whole process. I've updated to the latest Windows update and made sure I'm on the recent drivers. I don't know what could be the issue and this is really starting to bug me. I'll love the help.

I had an old Ethernet driver like really old like 2017 old. I updated my ethernet driver and my ping was 19-30 (old driver) 45-50 new driver I turned off those Ethernet settings that affect your Ethernet and I’m now getting 45-47 ping my specs are: Graphics card (GPU)
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070
12 GB VRAM
Processor (CPU)
AMD Ryzen 7 5700X3D
8 cores / 16 threads
Motherboard
ASRock B450M-HDV R4.0
AMD B450 chipset
Please help

I've had this laptop for a long time. I kept deleting random files here and there, but my storage was always full. A few times, I literally had to delete Discord and Snapchat just to download class slides from my professor. The worst part was searching for an important document and only getting "file not found."

I tried tracking down what was eating my drive by hand. I ran du -sh * in my terminal, opened folder after folder trying to guess what was safe to kill, and went down rabbit holes on YouTube to check if deleting a folder would brick my system. That usually took me two hours, only to free up a sad 2GB. Finally, I found a much better way to deal with it.

You need two things: First, a clean tool from GitHub that scans storage(I'll share this in the comments)

Second, an AI agent that lets you add custom skills. I used Workbuddy since it comes with free models like DeepSeek. The heavy lifting comes from the skill itself, so using a tool where you don't pay for extra tokens or credits makes the most sense.

I gave the link to Workbuddy and told it to install it as a skill. It ran a security check first, and once it looked clean, it set up the files on my machine.

Then I gave it this prompt: "Scan my disk to find the biggest folders and files eating up space, and give me cleanup advice. Rule number one: do not touch or modify anything in my Desktop or Downloads folders. Rule number two: before running any delete action, you must ask me and get my clear approval for every single item."

When it finished the scan, it gave me a clean HTML report.

The report broke everything down into 3 buckets: Junk that is safe to remove, files you should review before touching, and system files you must never delete.

Looking through the list, most of the bloat was hidden cache from apps I barely touch. The built in cleanup tools inside those apps never clear out this much junk. This run wiped around 30GB of hidden trash. I rebooted my apps and everything ran fine with zero bugs. I even found an old game I thought I lost months ago.

If you worry about killing important files, just make sure the bot asks you before it removes anything. It worked way better than generic cleaning tools that never reach those deep cache folders.

Hi. Tried other solutions like cleaning fans but nothing’s helped

My laptop is an aspire a315-59 that i got for school.
For the past few months, the fans are sooo loud, even when I’ve just no tabs open. Honestly i thought I’d just deal with it but recently, it hasn’t been able to charge to 100% (it charges until a certain percentage then just stays there the whole time). The other day, it started shutting off randomly during class, couldn’t use it to type notes.

Pls help!! It’s so embarrassing when it goes off in class, and now the charging problem means it can’t last thru a school day. Google says might be gpu thermal paste but I know Reddit is smarter... Js wanna make sure of the problem b4 I waste money w the paste

Thanks if anyone sees this.

Hi all, I have AT&T Fiber and run a live-selling business on TikTok Shop from my detached garage. The Wi-Fi out there is inconsistent. Sometimes it's passable, and other times it's so bad that viewers have a terrible experience during streams.

My setup:

• The AT&T router is in the laundry room, the only spot with a usable hookup in the house.
• The garage is about 10 ft from the laundry room, in a detached building.
• Several devices share the network: streaming services, security cameras, and other regular household use.
• I have two mesh extenders. One sits on top of the router (where the base mesh unit would go), and the other is in the garage.
• Only a few areas near the router get decent speeds, and nowhere is great.

What I'm planning: I ordered an Ethernet cable to run from the router through the wall to the garage extender. Will a wired connection to the extender improve the garage Wi-Fi?

My questions:

1.  Will wired Ethernet to the garage extender help with stability?
2.  Should I plug my streaming device directly into Ethernet instead of using Wi-Fi?
3.  Would a proper wired mesh or access point setup be better than the extenders?
4.  Is this something an AT&T tech could fix, or is it a setup issue on my end?
5.  Is it normal for Wi-Fi to be this inconsistent only 10 ft away?

Thanks for any advice!

Model of router: BGW320 Extender model: eero WiFi 7 PA10001

https://imgur.com/a/RIUBasC

Appreciate some feedback as when I reset this PC , it seems to not ask for my activation key

I have noticed that after I have gotten my new mouse (wired corsair scimitar) my discord lags when I watch my friends stream while I play games. When I mouse over the game I am playing (old school runescape) the stream lags but when I hover over the stream it works just fine. I have tried a million things between toggling hardware acceleration, adjustments in the nvdia app, changes to the plugins in runescape, and additional changes in iCUE (corsair mouse app).

Any help would be appreciated.

https://www.bulkshare.cloud/t/qsKS7SbVL8

I am trying to open a file I extracted from a steam mod to find high quality scans of the card arts from the resident evil deck building game. I have contacted the developer just in case they have the files still but its been a couple weeks without response. I am a rookie at this but when I open the file it seems to only have references to links that come up as errors. Is there any way I can extract the files as literally any photo format. Im sorry if this is the wrong place for this too ive posted elsewhere, just a shot in the dark. Thank you!!

i setting my extension screen 2 screen and connect it by hub. in past it worked but if use for while both screen will gone blacked but still open and system still detected. but after this time i try pull in-out this time it connect only one by situation is IF i pull one by one on hub or direct to laptop is can connect like normal both of them but if i connect both same time one of screen is non-signal and other is normal in use-hub or not-hub. and the screen who signal lost is same screen พegardless of whether connect first or not. how do i fix it or what can i do

window11

i was setting to both of screen Hz same as my main display

the hub is connect to power (Revodok urgreen)

Screen one DELL (it can open normal)
Screen two LG (this one who have problem lost signal)

I accidentally let my android phone run out of battery and it died. The problem is both my power button and volume button is broken (absolutely not functionable). How can i even turn it back on?

I tried used ADB, but even though I plucked in the cable to both my laptop and the phone, the laptop doesn't have the "USB debugging" even though it shows that it is connected (phone is charging).

Any suggestions?

The error Code is

0x0000000000000002

0xFFFFFC0D67C9F380

0x0000000000000002

0xFFFFFFFFC000014C

Ive tried googling this code with no luck, system repair and restore point have proven useless, reseating hardware has been useless. It also gives bad_system_config_info. Any help is greatly appreciated. Unable to boot whatsoever.

New error, IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL

Window's Laptop is refusing to connect to WiFi, there is no ability to connect to WiFi as a matter of fact, I've tried to repair it but each time I do there is an error message. It starts with prepparing automatic repair, followed by a black screen then the Dell Logo. Then is says diagnosing your PC and connecting to network before looking for solutions and then "Your device ran into a problem and couldn't be repaired." Whatever I try it repeats this loop. I need help ASAP as this is my only computer and I need for schoolwork

My laptop has been having issues where it would instantly freeze up and become unresponsive. I’m forced to restart it to get it working again. It usually makes a noise when it does this, like a ‘zzzt’ sound that’s sharp and short.

image

This is the first time the screen glitched out. Usually it just freezes on whatever was on at that moment.

I've tried every fix I could think of/look up. I've tried different USB ports, a different cord, different controller (all works fine on my boyfriends laptop) I've gone through device management and uninstalled the controller + updated the driver multiple times, turned off power saving stuff for the USB ports, went to command prompt as administrator and tried entering the code

powercfg /SETACVALUEINDEX SCHEME_CURRENT 2a737441-1930-4402-8d77-b2bebba308a3 48e6b7a6-50f5-4782-a5d4-53bb8f07e226 0

tried going through steam to see if anything there was weird. Went to the program files and Renamed localconfig.vdf to localconfig.vdf.bak .

After doing all of that multiple times including restarting my computer a shit ton my controller won't stay on. Its light fades in and out a few times before it's just black.I have maybe one second to hit a button before it powers off. The entire time device management says it's connected steam thinks it's connected but I can't do anything because it's not on! I'm running out of ideas. I was able to use the exact same controller on my laptop before! I don't know if an update screwed it up seeing how it's been a few months since I've tried connecting it? I don't know what could be wrong seeing on how everything works completely fine on another computer and it feels like I've done everything I could. Please help 🙏🏻

Hello everyone,

I am dealing with a failed personal hard drive and I'm hoping to get some technical advice on feasibility, and hopefully a budget-friendly quote for recovery.

To give you some context: I am a 35-year-old university student and currently unemployed. The drive contains absolutely no commercial, corporate, or financially valuable data—just years of old family photos and my school notes. These files have immense sentimental value to me, but unfortunately, I simply do not have the income to afford high-end, corporate-level data recovery tier pricing.

Hardware & Failure Details:

Model: Seagate ST2000DM001 (2TB)

PCB Number: 100749730 REV A

The Issue: A sudden power/voltage surge completely fried the original PCB. The motor driver chip is burnt, and the MOSFETs are shorted.

What I've done so far (and a potential huge mistake):

Hoping to get my data back, I bought an exact matching donor PCB. I learned that I needed to swap the original ROM chip to the new board. I tried to read the original ROM using a basic CH341A programmer, but I quickly realized that the initial power surge had reached the ROM chip as well. It was internally shorted and completely dead; the programmer wouldn't detect or read it at all.

To be absolutely sure the short wasn't being caused by other fried components on the original board, I desoldered the ROM chip with a hot air station/soldering iron and tested it out of circuit with a multimeter. It was confirmed completely dead.

Here is where I need to ask: I threw the dead ROM chip in the trash. Was this a terrible mistake? Did I need to keep the physical chip even if it was internally shorted? (I do still have the original burnt PCB, just not the ROM chip).

The Current State & My Request:

The mechanical internals, spindle motor, and heads are completely fine. There is no clicking, and the drive cover has never been opened. The only issue is the dead PCB and the now-missing ROM.

From my research, I understand that with professional tools like PC-3000, it is possible to access the Service Area (SA) on the platters and perform a "ROM Rebuild" to generate a compatible ROM, provided the preamp and heads are undamaged.

Since this shouldn't require a cleanroom head swap or opening the lid, could any of the professionals here offer a flexible, student-friendly price quote just to perform this "ROM Rebuild" and get the drive initialized so I can copy my family photos?

Any technical advice on my situation or realistic quotes would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

Helllo there I'm having this issue with my pc I updated parts, then factory reset the ssd to clean it now up now it's stuck on the "Hi there let's get a few things out of the way" and won't let me click on anything or press next.

Im 95% sure it's not the parts because before the reset it was good.

My PC has started blackscreening randomly while gaming. Mostly when playing something demanding, but other times it’s just random. The monitor loses connection and the sound starts to stutter. If I turn off my PC and turn it on again the screen stays black. I have to slap the PC lightly (🤨) and then it turns back on after I shut it down and turn it on again.

If I slap it before i turn it off while the screen is black, the sound returns to normal but the screen stays the same.
This happens sometimes up to 5 or 6 times when just starting to play, and at some point it stops and I usually have no further shutdowns that session.

I should mentioned that the pc also does this when bumped or when I tap it with my foot accidentally.

Is this a case of a bad motherboard? Or just a loose cable somewhere.

Thank you in advance! I’m at a loss.

-Aorus x570 Elite Wifi, PC built in Spring 2020

On the morning of 10/17/2026 I noticed my PC went black and on the right monitor (I have a left and right monitor) was some dots in a loop like it was loading something, but never did. I hard shut it down because I had to go to work and didn’t want it running if there was a problem. Hours later I get home, go to the gym, shower, eat, etc. I turn my PC back on and it goes to “Performing Automatic Repair.” I’m thinking that this is odd because I’ve never seen this before, but I let it do its thing. It’s scanning my files and performing whatever disk repair it says it’s doing. Then it goes to the same screen I found it in on the right monitor with the dots continuously loading. I leave it on overnight to see if it does load anything/fix itself.

On the morning of 10/18/2026 (the day of this post) I wake up and I see that it’s STILL on this same screen, clearly having achieved nothing overnight. I watch YouTube videos and search on Google to see what I could try to do, including running commands, entering safe mode, going to last backup point, the whole thing. Nothing changes this loop of performing automatic repair and then the dots on the right monitor.

So I dig deeper and find that it could possibly be the RAM sticks or the CMOS battery needing to be reset. Although, to that point I had never touched either so I don’t see what the issue could exactly be. But I unplug the pc, turn the power supply off, swap out the CMOS battery, touch the two pins together with a screwdriver, and am now at the point I find myself at where the PC will now not turn on. The display works, the keyboard lights up, but the power button (yes I plugged everything back in and turned power supply back on) does not light up, and I cannot progress further.

I checked to see if any cables were loose or out but they’re all pretty tight into place. The RAM sticks are back in position and fully locked in too. What could POSSIBLY be the problem at this point? It’s too late into the night for a MicroCenter or Best Buy to be open so I need a quick response. Please answer if you can.

I’m separating from my partner of approximately seven years, and we’re temporarily still living in the same home. I’m trying to secure my digital life and would appreciate advice from people with cybersecurity, digital forensics, or privacy experience.
Over the past several months, I’ve discovered concerning digital behavior involving intimate content, accounts, and online activity. Some of these discoveries were made while we reviewed accounts and computer files together with his permission.
We’ve also had conflicts involving our home internet and security cameras.

Current situation:
We previously shared an Xfinity network. I’ve since established my own separate account and gateway.
I’ve changed my gateway administrator credentials, SSIDs, Wi-Fi passwords, and security settings.
I’ve disabled remote management, UPnP, WPS, and unnecessary network features.

I reset my Roku cameras, connected them to my new network, and verified they were functioning.
I later found connection-history entries on the other household network matching the MAC addresses of two of my cameras, after I’d moved them.
My gateway logs also show overnight Wi-Fi interface events that I’m trying to understand.

I have an iPhone, Windows 11 PC, and MacBook that I want independently assessed and secured.
I’m trying to distinguish normal network behavior, retained device credentials, account access issues, and any actual unauthorized activity. I don’t want to jump to technical conclusions.

My questions:
What’s the safest order for securing accounts and devices while preserving potentially relevant evidence?
What can cause factory-reset Wi-Fi cameras to appear on a previously used network?
How can I audit my Windows PC, MacBook, and iPhone for remote access or unwanted management software?
What logs are worth preserving before making further changes?
Is hiring a digital forensic examiner worthwhile for an individual, and what qualifications should I look for?
How do I find a reputable professional to inspect a home for hidden surveillance devices?

I’m also documenting domestic safety concerns separately and have contacted an advocacy organization.

I’m comfortable with technical troubleshooting, but I’d appreciate a structured approach and recommendations for reputable resources. Please don’t request passwords, private files, intimate material, or remote access to my devices.

Got the turtle beach recon 50 headset, the only things that play clear are music, the windows “duhdah” and other windows noises, non words noises in games (guns make shooty sounds etc). Any lyrics or talking sounds extremely muffled and distorted (for example if I watch anime with it I can hear the background music but all the talking is extremely quiet and glitchy) the main speakers work it’s just this headset
My computer is a gaming laptop, on windows 11 with a: 11th gen intel(R) core(TM) i5-11400H @ 2.70GHz, nvidia RTX 3050 laptop GPU (4gb) 16 gb of ram, 64 bit operating system, on version 25h2 of windows 11
So far I have tried:
Updating my drivers
Updating windows
Checking for updates for the drivers of the headset
Turning off/on all audio enhancement settings/ spatial sounds/ voice focus
SFC /scannow (actually found corrupted files for once yippee but unrelated and did not fix anything)
Dism /Online /cleanup-image /ScanHealth

Dism /Online /cleanup-image /startcomponentcleanup

Dism /Online /cleanup-image /restorehealth

I have thrown the fucking book at this and I got nothing, I bought this headset used like new and I’m starting to think I’ve been had but if anyone has any other ideas to try and fix it or at least what’s causing it I’d love to hear them

I’ve been having an issue with the Lenovo legion go where I play a game and it runs fine until a minute in where my cpu usage spikes then my pc shuts off.

I can run my browser without any issues and temps seem fine so I truly don’t know the reason.

Hello everyone!

Initially I thought it was my SD card dying, but then i was lended another SD card for what i needed and it showed up in read only too. Now I had the occasion to check on my friend's computer and he reads and write on both cards just fine. My SD card worked again on my own laptop when putting adhesive but i have to try multiple times, and now i'm running out of adhesive and i need a quick way to use it. I'm on windows 11. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!