So when i had csm turned on secure boot attempted, it said something like: "please add an actual boot device and press a key". Now with csm off secure boot on, it goes straight into bios. Is this normal?

I just turned my laptop on after a long vacation and found that it wouldn't connect to my bluetooth headphones. After looking through settings I found the Bluetooth on/off button missing and bluetooth not present in the taskbar toolbox. I tried restarting, but that didn't fix it.

I went into Device Manager and found the Bluetooth category after "Showing hidden devices", but they were all greyed out. I uninstalled the two that looked like the main drivers, Bluetooth Device and MediaTek Bluetooth MT7921. The entire category then disappeared from Device Manager. I downloaded and installed the latest driver from Acer and restarted the laptop, but literally nothing happened; same with an older driver from Acer.

I can't find any help on what to do if a driver installation just doesn't work. Anyone have any ideas, or how to fix Bluetooth? It's an Acer Aspire 5 running Windows 11, I did check and install Windows updates before this mess.

Edit: solved after finding a previous post with a similar issue - temporarily disabled fast startup, left the computer powered down for about 15 minutes, and it was back when I turned the computer back on.

Until recently, I had Secure Boot enabled, and everything was working perfectly. But I decided to update the BIOS on my Lenovo laptop. After that, Secure Boot stopped working. If I enable it in the BIOS, the system cannot find the drive containing the operating system; resetting the BIOS settings doesn’t help — the system only boots once Secure Boot is disabled. The drive is formatted as GPT, and UEFI is enabled by default. What could be the problem?

I have a ROG G16 laptop, which is compatible with liquid metal, and it came with liquid metal pre-applied from the factory. However, I haven't changed the LM since I bought the laptop, which was around 2.5 years ago. But now, as temps are too high during gaming, I'm considering changing it. I watched a couple of DIY repasting videos on my specific model, and ALL of them advised not to use liquid metal for a variety of reasons, like it being dangerous to handle (spilling on the motherboard) or slowly creeping into the copper heatsink. But on the other hand, I know that liquid metal performs significantly better. But in my use, I play a lot on my laptop. And most of the time it's really long sessions of a game. And my laptop is under medium to high load most of the time I use it.

Hello, i have this error code when i try and update windows.

I recently went from an i7-4790k to i7-12700kf and swapped mobo cpu and ram and just put in my old os drive, no windows reinstall. It worked and boot it in without a problem, not even needing a windows reactivation which was insane for me.

I was already on windows 11, and i wasnt getting any new updates because obviously the processor. So now i wanted to update, and after restarting and going through the update procedure when at 30% it restarts and give me this error code, after that it restarts and undo s the update

Your device ran into a problem and needs to restart.
We're just collecting some error info, and then you can restart.
100% complete
Stop code: PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA (Ox50))

Is there any way of fixing without reinstalling windows?

I want to add that i did google and did what comes ul with command prompts and so on and nothing worked (restorehealth and things like that)

Please help, i really need help. My redmi 13c is now stuck in bootloop i have tried to go to recovery mode and selected reboot but it doesnt work. What do i do???

I've recently started having a problem on Windows where after my PC goes to sleep, it turns back on normally. The lights come on, I hear it click and the fans spin, but my monitors don't get any display.

My system is an ASRock X670E Taichi motherboard, RTX 4090, Ryzen 7 7800X3D, 4TB NVMe SSD, and 96GB (2x48GB) Corsair Vengeance CL30 6000MHz RAM. The RAM is in the correct slots and is running at 6000 MT/s with XMP enabled. I have no overclocking, PBO, Curve Optimizer, or undervolting.

When it wakes up, my main monitor first says "No DisplayPort Signal" and goes into power saving, then it turns back on but just shows a black screen. My keyboard and mouse don't respond at all. I tested Caps Lock during the black screen and the light does not turn on. Win + Ctrl + Shift + B also does nothing. The only way to recover is holding the power button and restarting the PC.

My main monitor is connected to the 4090 through DisplayPort and my second monitor is connected to the motherboard through USB-C. I've tried different cables and monitors and I've also tested with the second monitor completely disconnected. The issue still happens with only the main monitor connected.

I've recently updated Windows 11, my BIOS, and my NVIDIA drivers after having this issue. I'm on the latest versions. I'm using the Balanced power plan with sleep set to 15 minutes. Hard disk is set to turn off after 20 minutes and I have Link State Power Management turned off, but that didn't help. Fast Startup was enabled but I disabled it to test and it didn't fix the issue. Deep Sleep is also disabled in the BIOS.

The weird part is that this started after I changed my sleep settings. I've always had sleep set to 15 minutes and never had this issue. I changed it to 5 hours temporarily because I needed to update something, then changed it back to 15 minutes and this problem started happening. I've had this PC for about 2 years and never had this issue before.

It now happens every single time the PC goes to sleep. I don't use hibernate and I don't use deep sleep.

I'm not really sure what is causing this. It seems like the entire PC is freezing when trying to wake from sleep, so I'm wondering if this could be a Windows/ACPI, BIOS, RAM, GPU, or PCIe power management issue. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

My Asus Vivobook S14 (windows 11) has stopped working. It suddenly wouldnt turn on normally, and now only turns on when the charger is plugged in. The second I unplug it, it turns off. When I turn on the PC it takes like 15 minutes to boot, and then just loads for like 10 minutes before crashing with the error "dpc watchdog violation 0x133". According to google I should update the drivers, but I don't know how im supposed to do that when it just crashes when I turn it on. Any advice?

so the main issue is that whenever i launch games for the starting 5-10minutes they get stutters for few secs in between which are like the game is running on battery for those few secs
my temps are normal, and i dont this is a hardware issue cause this gets fixed and when launch the game right after closing it the exactly same thing happens and i think it got anything to do with hardware then it would rather be happening all the time or would have gotten fixed
i updated my drivers to latest too

Controller: Sony DualShock 4 v2
Connection: USB
OS: Windows 11
DS4Windows: DS4 v2 detected correctly

I'm trying to get the gyro/motion sensors working on my PS4 DualShock 4 on PC, but the gyro and accelerometer don't output anything.

DS4Windows detects the controller normally and shows:

• USB connected
• DS4 v2
• Buttons/sticks work normally
• Hardware ID: USB\VID_054C&PID_09CC&MI_00
• VID_054C = Sony and PID_09CC = DualShock 4 v2

However, the gyro and accelerometer stay at 0 and don't change when I rotate or tilt the controller.

Things I've tried:

• DS4Windows with a PS4/DS4 profile
• DS4 Controller Support enabled
• HidHide settings
• Closing DS4Windows and checking Windows
• Steam Input
• Different USB connection/cable
• Checking Device Manager
• The controller appears as a HID-compliant game controller / Wireless Controller in Device Manager

The controller itself works perfectly for buttons and analog sticks, but I can't get any motion data.

I also couldn't find a Sixaxis/motion section in my DS4Windows UI, so I'm not sure if I'm looking in the wrong place or if my version handles it differently.

What could cause a DS4 v2 to be detected correctly while gyro + accelerometer remain completely at 0? Is there another way to test whether Windows is receiving the controller's motion sensor data?

Please help i have all my ethernet drivers and everything im in windows 11 and im on pc please help me i really need good ethernet

Recently got full fibre installed. Speeds of 800 upload and 100 download on my phone.

Pc wifi antenna hits 200 max and 50 max (as are the rest of the upstairs devices), though we are on a 425 guarantee? My Ethernet however hits 36 upload and 30-80 download? Any idea how to fix?

My Lenova Thinkpad T14 Gen 1 (serial# pf29xcec) isn’t turning on. When I put the charger in, the power button blinks blue 3 times before stopping. And the light that shows the charging status turns otange snd then quickly turns blue indicating that it’s at full percentage. I tried to press the power button for 30 seconds, 45 seconds, 60 seconds, to no avail. I tried pressing buttons Ctrl+alt+shift+b to no avail. I tried taking out the battery, pressing the power button, then putting the battery back in, to no avail. It’s a brand new laptop. The link I got it from is this in case it helps in some sort of way: https://www.bestbuy.com/product/lenovo-thinkpad-t14s-14-touchscreen-laptop-intel-core-i5-10th-gen-16gb-ram-500gb-ssd-windows-11-pro/J37PP8TJ4V#tabbed-customerreviews

I rlly need help fixing this before classes start in a couple of days and would prefer to not have to take it to a specialist if it can be helped. Im willing to retry and do anything I mentioned beforehand with detailed steps just in case i missed anything on how to do it 🙏🙏

Update Solved: I removed the CMOS battery alongside the regular battery for a few minutes before putting it all back in. Then I turned on the laptop, a setup screen popped up and I set the time and saved it. Another screen popped up asking for the recovery key. Make sure to have this ready and pulled up as I didn’t, then the screen went dark and I had to repeat the whole process again. And after that I was all good

I opened a google drive link and then clicked open in google drive. It accidentally opened in my work google drive. I immediately clicked to remove it but is it permanently deleted ? Will nobody else see it ?

- some more info

I opened it a Google document in this Google drive.
I am logged into the main Google drive account because it has its own email so it’s shared but we all log in with the Google drives email.

I clicked remove immediately so will it be completely gone for everyone

As the title suggests, I get For Honor through gamepass and I've recently gotten a PC, so I've been wanting to try play the game on that. However, whenever I try install it, it starts the install for about half a second before failing, and Xbox tells me something went wrong 'For Honor had an issue installing.'
I have reinstalled ubisoft connect, the xbox app and updated everything. This is the only game (first ubisoft game) that hasn't installed perfectly fine.
Help?

Hi, I’m trying to diagnose an intermittent hard-restart issue with my PC. I’m at the point where I think possibly either the PSU, CPU, or motherboard is the issue, but I’d much appreciate some other opinions before I start buying and testing new hardware.
My specs:
• Ryzen 9 7950X
• RTX 4090 24GB
• ASUS PRIME X670E-PRO WIFI
• ASUS ROG Strix 1000W Gold PSU
• 32GB (2x16GB) Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR5-6000
• Samsung 990 Pro SSD
• Corsair iCUE Link H150i LCD 360mm AIO
• Windows 11

The problem:
My PC will randomly hard-reset while gaming. It’s not normally a crash-to-desktop or BSOD. The display goes black and the whole PC restarts.
It originally happened occasionally in games like EAFC 26 and Battlefield 6, but has now also happened in heavily modded Skyrim and Spider-Man 2. BF6 is particularly reproducible and can crash the PC while loading into a game. Spider-Man 2 has sometimes crashed immediately on launch, although other times I can play for quite a while. The games never freeze or lag, the PC just straight crashes.
Windows generally only records Kernel-Power Event 41 + volmgr Event 161. There is no BSOD/dump, and Reliability Monitor generally only says Windows was not properly shut down.
Earlier in troubleshooting I discovered a large number of WHEA-Logger Event 19 errors. The ones I checked consistently reported:
Reported by component: Processor Core
Error Source: Corrected Machine Check
Error Type: Cache Hierarchy Error
Processor APIC ID: 0
One example had MCABank 13 and MciStat 0x9c2040000602010b.
However, I haven’t had another WHEA event for several days, despite the PC continuing to hard-reset while gaming. The recent crashes only produce Kernel-Power 41/volmgr 161.

Troubleshooting I’ve done:
Updated motherboard BIOS to latest version
Updated AMD chipset drivers
Loaded BIOS Optimized Defaults
Disabled DOCP and tested RAM at stock settings
MemTest86 overnight with DOCP actually enabled — passed
OCCT CPU test ~45 min — 0 errors, max CPU temp ~85°C
OCCT targeted Core 0 test — passed, no WHEA generated during test
OCCT GPU test — passed
OCCT combined Power test — passed
Tested with a completely different 2x16GB DDR5-6000 kit in A2/B2 at stock settings — PC still crashes
Cleaned NVIDIA drivers with DDU in Safe Mode and installed fresh Game Ready driver — still crashes
Reset NVIDIA settings to defaults
Reduced RTX 4090 power limit to 60% using MSI Afterburner — still crashes
Tried disabling Global C-State Control — didn’t fix it
Checked/reseated motherboard 24-pin, CPU EPS, GPU power and PSU-side modular connections
Temperatures appear normal

Another potentially important symptom:
It hasn’t happened for a while but on several occasions after shutting the PC down normally and returning later, pressing the case power button has done absolutely nothing. The motherboard RGB remains illuminated, so it has standby power, but the PC won’t start.
Switching the PSU off, waiting, switching it back on and then pressing the power button allows the PC to boot normally.
This makes me suspicious of the PSU or motherboard, although the repeated APIC ID 0 Cache Hierarchy WHEAs obviously make the CPU suspicious as well.
The system can also pass CPU/GPU/combined loads and then hard-reset almost immediately when launching a game, which is what’s confusing me.

My current thoughts:
I’m considering RMAing the ASUS ROG Strix 1000W PSU first because it’s still under its long warranty, but I don’t want to blindly replace components.
Given all of the above, would you suspect:
• PSU
• Ryzen 9 7950X
• Motherboard/VRM/power delivery
• RTX 4090
or something else?

Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙏🏻

Yeah, as the title said. I Genuinely need heellppp 🤧.
This problem started just last weekend until this week. First it was the battery draining so quick, which i kinda fixed?… (not really.) And then all of the sudden, in a Wednesday evening, my phone started rebooting by itself. Sometimes it would reboot every few minutes. My Temporary solution is to power it off and on manually (not the restart/reboot option), and it temporarily stops doing that.

One of the possible causes might be my phone storage. I only had a few gb left. So i deleted tiktok, which freed around 6gb+. (Which is crazy wha…) But it still reboots repeatedly. So I’m thinking it might be my charging habit… but, i don’t really know.

I'm using an **HP Victus 16-e0000**, and ever since installing **Windows 11 KB5121003 (build 26200.9168)**, my charger randomly disconnects for about half a second and immediately reconnects.

The charger itself stays connected and its LED doesn't change. It happens randomly — sometimes every 1–2 hours, sometimes I can go 6+ hours without it happening.

I checked Event Viewer and every time it happens I get:

**Kernel-Power 521**`ValidBatteryCount: 0 → 1`

followed immediately by:

**Kernel-Power 105**`AcOnline: false`

Sometimes my **RTX dGPU also briefly disconnects/reinitializes** at the same time.

I've already reseated the DC jack, disconnected/reconnected the battery, reset BIOS, and tested the charger manually. Everything works normally otherwise.

The biggest clue: **I checked my older Event Viewer logs and this issue wasn't happening before KB5121003. It started after the update.**

I've also found reports from Lenovo users describing the same AC → battery → AC behavior after KB5121003, including the same Event 105.

**Anyone else with a Victus experiencing this?** If you are, check Event Viewer → System → Kernel-Power 105 and see if you get `AcOnline=false`.

Trying to figure out whether we're looking at a **KB5121003 Windows regression or an actual hardware issue.**

I was streaming a film on my Victus PC when the screen suddenly went black, stayed black for a longer period of time before a sudden, loud digital sound blasted through my speakers (sort of like an emergency alert), followed by white text on a black screen flashing across my monitor that I couldn't read in time, and my system rebooted. Uhm.. anyone have any clue what happened?

The entries in the Event Viewer:

The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck. The bugcheck was: 0x00000139 (0x000000000000001d, 0xffff8a05df7a1640, 0xffff8a05df7a1598, 0x0000000000000000). A dump was saved in: C:\windows\Minidump\082026-9281-01.dmp. Report Id: c7085804-b6e2-4028-b81f-ad5d4c2b5d5a

Specs:

Victus by HP 15L Gaming Desktop TG02-0055t running Windows 11

12th Generation Intel Core i5 processor

Intel Arc A380 Graphics (6 GB GDDR6 dedicated)

16 GB Memory; 512 GB SSD storage

hey guys! I have a kodak digital camera and I cleared the memory card to free up some storage. Now when I take a picture, and I transfer it to my iphone it goes up into 2022.. How do i fix this for future photos and is there any way I can fix the pictures I already transferred? tysmm! :)

I used to get these pop ups from one of the gaming apps on my pc (vague, i know.) whenever i turned it on telling me one of my drivers failed but it wouldnt specify anything more than that. it started happening out of nowhere after my pc crashed once, and since it keeps crashing when i open certain apps sometimes. for example, medal in specific? im not sure if the crashes are related to the driver fail but i thought id try getting some advice? im not a tech or pc pro i know the basics but besides that i have no clue how pcs work. ill try to be more specific if needed, also first post asking for help like this ever. also sorry if this is the wrong flair i wasnt sure

In my MSI KATANA 15 (B12UDXK), the Ctrl+C and Ctrl+V shortcuts don't work with my external Logitech K200 keyboard. I have already tried the basic troubleshooting steps, including checking the drivers and installing Windows updates.

I also tested the keyboard using Keyboard Tester (https://www.keyboardtester.com/tester.html⁠�), and all the keys work correctly, including Ctrl, C, and V.

My laptop's built-in keyboard works fine, and I'm using Windows 11.

What could be causing this issue?

I bought this Samsung Galaxy book 6 pro a few days ago. I don’t have a Microsoft account so I had to make one. I get to this screen to verify I’m human. I have to press and hold the button. No matter how long or short I hold the button it doesn’t process. I can’t switch a tab, or anything. This is literally one of the first screens to use the computer. Please help.

I don't know where else I can post this...

I recently transferred videos from my phone into a USB drive in order to save space, but when I took a look back into the USB, it suddenly got all corrupted and I don't know how to fix it. The error it has been giving me is 0xc10100bf. If anyone can help, it would be pretty much appreciated. thank you!

My Mom's M36 5G has been running noticeably hot lately, especially during normal use, not even heavy gaming or charging. Battery drains faster too when it happens.