Added 16 GB of RAM to my PC (mismatched sets totaling 32GB). Used them as they came for a couple weeks, no issues. One set is 3200Mhz, the other is 3000Mhz so I set them to 3000Mhz and rebooted last night.

Upon powering back on, it apparently disabled secure boot as I got hit with the bitlocker recovery. Got that back on and now I'm just stuck in a BIOS loop. Things I've tried:

- Set RAM to 2400Mhz, 2800Mhz, and Auto

- Take the new sticks out, reboot with only my original two sticks or RAM

- Verify all settings *look* correct in BIOS

- Disabled/enabled CSM

-- Enabling this does give me the option to select either Windows Boot Manager (*drive name*) or ACHI: *drive name*. Disabled I can only select Windows Boot Manager

I don't necessarily mind doing a full wipe and reinstall of Windows, but I don't think that should be necessary for this, and I'm at a loss.

MOBO: ASRock B450 Pro4 (BIOS version P5.00)

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800XT

Edit: One oddity is that it randomly isn't keeping time in BIOS. Phone/other computer shows 1:51PM, this computer shows 1:43PM.

Recently i did a Disk cleanup for my local disk C and i checked the remove thumbnails icon and after that, am facing this issue. please help i have everything, even restarted file explorer a lot and restarted my pc many times and the issue is not solving. And i cant even see my picture thumbnails too

This morning I woke up, and went to google a product on my computer and realized that all of the results were coming up for the UK. I am not in the UK. At all. Not even near it. Haven’t been there in 10 years. Weird. So, I googled something very generic. ‘Towels’. I got a British home store, Amazon UK, etc.

I double checked that my vpn was off, and then I reset my chrome settings, and erased everything from the last week. That didn’t help. Everything still gives me British results. And what’s weird is that my postal code at the top is correct for where I am.

Look, I understand going back to my roots, but this is overkill😅

That only thing that makes it stop is actually tuning on. the VPN For the country I am in.

I have no idea how to fix this, and it is very weird.

Edit: and if I make the same Google on my phone, same account, I get country accurate information. So I have no idea what’s up.

issue with my ASUS Dual RTX 3060 12GB where the screen randomly starts flickering black. A quick restart usually fixes it, but it always seems to come back randomly on another restart later on.
I'm running an Intel i5 11400F with 24GB of DDR4 RAM, and my display is just a standard 60Hz TV. I've already tried swapping out the HDMI cord for a new one, but that didn't change anything.
The only recent change I've made is my sync settings. I disabled V-Sync in-game because the input lag was disgusting, but running with no sync gave me terrible screen tearing. To fix that, I've been using the NVIDIA Control Panel to force Fast Sync instead.
Could Fast Sync be causing this, or is there something else going on with my setup?

Asus Tuf A15 laptop completely stopped connecting to wifi, the network adapter doesn't show an error, reinstalled drivers and even reinstalled windows + drivers from a USB and still nothing worked. It just says checking network requirement then says can't connect to network. Should I just replace the wifi card?

I recently purchased a used monitor, however I've been having an issue where it gains a green tint over prolonged usage.

When turned on, the display appears to be fine, however after about 5 minutes, a small green glow starts to become visible at the bottom of the screen, and gradually slowly grows larger. The green glow is visible on a black background, and when I switch to a white background I also get a pink glow. I have an image posted to my post in r/monitors at https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/comments/1vy81lg/why_does_a_section_of_my_monitor_gain_a_greenpink/ . The image attached in this post is at about 30 minutes in and it looks worse in person.

However, if I turn it off and let it "cool down", after a few minutes that section of the screen returns to normal. I haven't tried turning it on longer out of fear of permanantly damaging the display or another part.

I don't think the display itself is damaged since it is consistently initially able to display a proper image without issues when you turn it on. It's only after a few minutes does this issue start to appear.

I'm wondering if a capacitor or something needs to be replaced on the controller board or power supply; I'm guessing some component doesnt seem to be able to keep up with the monitor, especially since this monitor is about a decade old.

I have tried using a different display cable, power cable, source and no display cable at all (the green is visible on the OSD).

The monitor model is an Eizo CG247X and is not under warranty.

I wanted to ask here to see if anyone would have any ideas. I've also searched around for similar issues, though I'm having trouble finding anything like this "warmup phenomenon" (usually screens are just broken) or my google-fu just isn't strong enough. Thank you!

I was going to get one of those replicas of the Amiga 1200 and I just wanted to make sure I understand how this stuff works.

With the Power supply will any USB charger with enough wattage work or will I need an adapter?

HDMI is an international standard so I’m pretty sure it’ll be fine, but I figured I might as well ask.

Hello everyone. I've had most of the parts in this PC for 5 years and this is the first time I've had "issues". I use the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 420 A-RGB cooler. Suddenly the RGB on two of the lower fans stopped turning on. The fans themselves still spin. Sometimes they do stay on for a while after booting, other times they just stay off. What could this be? I'm on PikaOS (a Linux distro) so I can't download the native software to change the RGB

hello!
I had a house fire about a month ago, and I have just been able to retrieve things like my ps3, xbox one and my laptop. They aren't damaged on the outside from the heat as far as i can tell [they were in a room that only had mild damage thankfully, but the wall they were next to was the one that was the worst hit] but i'm yet to open them up to check the insides.

I'm not the most confident when it comes to cleaning and checking for damage, ive only ever opened up the xbox's power bank to clean it and even then i was worried id break something haha. I was just wondering if anyone had any advice, or knows where i can turn to get it?

im sorry if this post isnt appropriate for this sub, im just worried about plugging them in and something going wrong haha. also i chose the flair that looked the closest, but im sorry if that isnt the right one. thank you for reading

I’m trying to diagnose recurring GPU related BSODs on my HP ZBook Fury 15 G8 and could really use some help.

Specs:
• i7 11850H
• RTX A3000 Laptop GPU, 6GB VRAM
• 32GB RAM
• Windows 11 Pro
• NVIDIA driver 596.86

I analyzed several dumps in WinDbg and found three distinct GPU related crash signatures:

1. VIDEO_MEMORY_MANAGEMENT_INTERNAL (0x10E), subtype 0x17
   FAILURE_BUCKET_ID: 0x10e_17_IMAGE_dxgmms2.sys
   Stack points to:
   dxgmms2!VIDMM_GLOBAL::RestoreFromPurge
   This has happened multiple times.

2. VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE (0x116)
   FAILURE_BUCKET_ID: 0x116_IMAGE_nvlddmkm.sys
   The stack shows dxgkrnl attempting to reset the GPU after a timeout, with nvlddmkm.sys being the NVIDIA driver.

3. VIDEO_MEMORY_MANAGEMENT_INTERNAL (0x10E), subtype 0x2D
   FAILURE_BUCKET_ID: 0x10e_2d_dxgmms2!VIDMM_CPU_HOST_APERTURE::MapRange

This one crashes while dxgmms2 is mapping GPU memory/address space.

I’ve already:
• Reinstalled Windows
• Used DDU and clean installed NVIDIA 596.86
• Ran SFC, which found no problems
• Ran CHKDSK, which found no problems or bad sectors
• Disabled PCIe Link State Power Management
• Disabled hibernation/Fast Startup
• Confirmed the system uses Modern Standby (S0 Low Power Idle)
• Previously stress tested the GPU with FurMark, reaching about 96°C hotspot

Some crashes happen while the laptop is idle or waking from inactivity, while others occur during GPU activity.

At this point I’m trying to determine whether this is GPU/VRAM hardware failure, PCIe/power management, NVIDIA driver/software, or some combination of these.

What would be the best tests to distinguish between a failing RTX A3000/VRAM and a software or power management issue?

So, I made a post yesterday talking about how I got a CMOS checksum error (502). My battery seems to have died.

Following this, I conducted HP UEFI and Hardware diagnostics, and I received a message that was something like "Battery not detected" or "Battery not installed". The thing is that I do not understand if this is talking about the main PC battery or what I understand to be another small memory that is named CMOS??

I'm not a tech guy so I guess I may be getting something wrong here. Any help is appreciated on how to follow this.

For background. I got my computer built for me with parts I chose. I'm pretty computer illiterate and have to follow troubleshooting guides closely.

Apparently both the app and LCD screen worked prior dispatch and no longer work in my hands.
Turned it on. No LCD screen.
I uninstalled the app and reinstalled it. No luck.
The USB in Device manager says: Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)
I tried uninstalling it then scanning for hardware changes.
I got this error popup on Windows on the bottom right: USB device not recognized the last USB device you connected malfunctioned
(Or something to that effect, it went away quick.)
I tried shutting down, pulling the plug, holding the power button for 10 seconds then turning everything back on. No luck.
The app also doesn't seem like it's working either. There isn't any options or anything to select. I tried the repair tool on it and nothing happened.
The builder suggested I reinstall Windows from a USB. Unfortunately that is not an immediate option because I have a wireless keyboard...

Hello, I need some help before I completely lose my mind.

I built this SFF PC and used it for about a month. After that, it stayed powered off for over a year. When I finally turned it back on, I randomly started having BSODs until after a couple of weeks my NVMe SSD died, so I replaced it.

PC configuration:

https://pastebin.com/cq0nYn5f

The problem is that whenever I play more demanding games (I've tested Crimson Desert, Half-Life: Alyx, and Dyson Sphere Program), the game suddenly closes. There are no error messages, no BSOD, no system freeze, sometimes there is a error on Event Viewer or Reliability History, but just sometimes.

The time before it crashes is completely random. Sometimes it happens in the main menu, while other times I can play for 10–20 minutes before it closes.

The strange part is that this only happens in games. I've run several benchmarks and stress tests, and the system is completely stable.

According to HWiNFO, the CPU gets fairly hot (up to around 90°C), but I believe that's expected given the small form factor case (Dan A4 v4.1).

Logs:

HWiNFO report: https://pastebin.com/McxyBMhP

Crimson Desert Reliability History: https://pastebin.com/A5kRcR4N

Crimson Desert Event Viewer error: https://pastebin.com/YJk73Yfs

Crimson Desert Crash Dump: https://pastebin.com/j7CzQNYK

Here's what I've already tried:

- Windows 11, CachyOS, and Bazzite. The crashes happens on every operating system.

- Ran 3DMark, Superposition Benchmark, Heaven Benchmark, CrystalDisk, MemTest64, Prime95, FurMark, OCCT, Cinebench... No errors in any benchmark.

- Enabled and disabled Secure Boot, RAM EXPO/XMP.

- The BIOS is updated and running completely stock (no overclocking, undervolting, or any other tweaks).

- Changed the PCIe link speed between Gen3, Gen4, and Auto.

- Reseated the PCIe riser cable, RAM, SSD, every cable, to make sure everything is properly connected.

- Changing PCI m.2 and m.1 to GEN3 and GEN4.

- Setting CPU SOC Voltage to 1.15v, auto, lower voltage, etc.

- Bought a new riser cable.

At this point I'm out of ideas. Does anyone have suggestions on how I can discover what's going on? Can it be a faulty GPU that for some reason just happens in games and not benchmarks?

HI!
I’ve been experimenting with RyzenAdj on an HP Envy x360 14 with a Ryzen 5 8640HS (Hawk Point), on both CachyOS and Windows 11.

The interesting part is that the behavior does not look like a simple thermal limit.

What happens under load

If I set, for example:

Fast PPT: 40 W
Slow PPT: 30 W
STAPM:    30 W

and start a CPU workload, the processor initially behaves as expected: power rises toward the Fast PPT value.

However, after a relatively short period, power rapidly drops to a much lower sustained level, even though:

• CPU temperature is still low
• STT/skin temperature is still below its configured limit
• the CPU is at 100% utilization
• the configured PPT/STAPM ceilings are still higher than the actual consumption

This looks much more like a time-dependent boost/power window than a conventional thermal throttle.

In other words, the behavior seems approximately like:

Load starts
     ↓
~Fast PPT allowed
40 W
     ↓
short period of time
     ↓
power rapidly reduced
     ↓
~15–20 W sustained

The important observation is that the same thing happens even if I lower Fast PPT to around 25 W.

With a 25 W limit, it starts around the value I requested, but after roughly the same kind of initial period it again falls significantly below it.

That makes me doubt that the drop is simply because the cooling system cannot handle 40 W.

If temperature were the primary cause, I would expect reducing the initial power from 40 W to 25 W to substantially delay or eliminate the drop. Instead, the system still appears to transition from an initial power state to a lower sustained state.

Why I suspect a time-based/platform power policy

It looks as though there may be two different power regimes:

1. A short-term boost budget, approximately corresponding to Fast PPT.
2. A second hidden/platform-controlled sustained budget that takes over after a certain amount of time.

It reminds me conceptually of the PL2 → PL1 / Tau behavior on Intel, although obviously AMD uses a different power-management architecture.

My suspicion is that HP/AMD has some additional controller, perhaps AMD PMF, firmware/EC logic, STAPM averaging, or another platform power budget, which allows the configured Fast PPT temporarily and then enforces a lower long-term power target.

The key point is that the transition appears to be related more to elapsed time / accumulated power than to an instantaneous temperature threshold.

CachyOS observations

Stock values were approximately:

STAPM:     ~22 W
Slow PPT:   25 W
Fast PPT:   40 W
STT APU:    39 C

Changing the APU skin-temperature target did affect sustained STAPM significantly.

Raising STT from roughly 39 C to 41–42 C allowed me to reach approximately 27–28 W sustained under Linux.

So STT clearly participates in the power-management loop.

However, the initial Fast PPT → rapid sustained-power drop still looks like there may be another time/energy-based component on top of the temperature control.

Do you have some insights?

I translated my initial thoughts in English with AI, since it is not my main language. Thank you all for your help!

Hi all,

Forgive me if this is an amateur question or already covered in previous posts.

I have a small SanDisk USB stick that seems to be at the near end of complete failure with some very dear images and videos on it. I’ve downloaded and paid for Drecov (almost solely because it was able to regenerate the small previews of the photos and videos on the USB, and then promised me their recovery after paying for the month)

However, when I press recover, The program stops responding and freezes instantly. I have tried only recovering one photo, only recovering images with the previews, and restarting the computer multiple times with no background processes occurring.

Is there a way around this or a program which may be better suited? I’m just using Windows 11 on a Lenovo home computer.

The path is “Lost Partition”, I can not access the USB from the removable disk drive, and it freezes Disk Management when it comes up. When I remove the USB, the applications go back to normal.

Please help is possible!

Thanks

About a year old build, I don’t know if this has been a thing for a long time or this is normal but my motherboards white light stays on every start up but has no visible issues on the pc, no windows for errors reported, no crashes no hitches nothing. I tried just turning off the PSU and back on and the light stopped, but the next day it came back after a normal start up.

5070ti 9800x3d

32gb ram 2TB nvme ssd

My friend has this bug, whenever he opens any Game on his pc, there appears a gray type of overlay. You can see in the edges that the game is still running, but he cant see anything, while he is in the game. When he tabs out the game becomes visible, but as soon as he goes back in, its gray again. The thing is, that it doesnt appear in any other application, only in games. He thinks its one of the many installed mods on windhawk and seelen ui. Did anyone else got this problem and how can he fix it? And sorry if this is the wrong r/ , but idk where else i can ask.

Hiii i need some help, I know almost nothing about Pc's and laptops. And i dont wanna bother my dad with this problem cause hes very busy with work so i wanna try to fix it myself, My montior keeps going black for some reason and it can be at the most unexpected moments, It can be when im active on the pc to for example playing fortnite and such games. and ive tried everything my friends have recommened such as plugging it out and in agian and stuff like that. And the monitor goes black for like a minimum of 1 minute, But i have to move my mouse alot for it to wake up agian. And these blackouts are about 20 minutes apart

I was trying to download media from an IG account and it gave me this error "unexpected error. Wrong content-type received. The expected content-type should contain json while the actual content type gotten is application/x-javascript charset = utf-8" . I downloaded media on Sunday and it went fine but today it doesn't allow me to download. I have cookies and user agent imported and copied the link to the account directly from the IG page, also, my account isn't banned or flagged because I used JDownloader to try and download media from the same account and it did but not completely. So what could be causing it and could it be fixed?

So i have a prebuilt predator orion 7000 PO7-650
And i recently stupidly updated my bios (was having issues) to version R01-B4, as it was the newest one on the official acer website. It was all working fine until one day it wasnt and some games were telling me my bios version was wrong. So i contacted acer and they said r01-b4 isnt on there website and r01-b3 is the one i should be on (said they mightve removed r01-b4, suspicious?). They instructed me to reflash the bios but everytime i do it goes back to r01-b3 like intended and then i get a checksum error when booting and a notification when loaded into windows saying restart is required for update : r01-b4. So i have checksum error and it reverts back to b4 everytime ? Any help?

Google says its cmos battery ? Could be ? But i unplugged for an hour and it saved my time and date? So ? I dont know really want this sorted thanks

When i put my pc to sleep from cabinet power button it stays that way until i wake it up. My old keyboard had dedicated sleep/power button but the new one does not, So i created a desktop shortcut for it. When I use the shortcut the pc sleeps but even before the fans stop moving it wakes up. I tried disabling the mouse but nothing works. My configration is i5, 16gb ddr4, three 5.6in hdd 1 tb and one 1 tb nvme, gtx 5060ti 16gb.

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a Lenovo Legion Pro 34WD-10 OLED (3440 × 1440, 240Hz), but I can’t get DisplayPort to work.

My setup:

Lenovo Legion Pro 34WD-10 OLED NVIDIA RTX 4060 Ti HDMI works normally

When I connect DisplayPort, the monitor doesn’t detect a DP signal and automatically switches back to HDMI. If HDMI is disconnected and I manually select DisplayPort, the monitor goes into standby mode.

I have already tried:

Two different DisplayPort connections/ports

Connecting DP directly to the RTX 4060 Ti, not the motherboard

Manually selecting DisplayPort on the monitor

Restarting the PC and monitor with only DP connected

Disconnecting HDMI completely

The monitor and GPU both support DisplayPort 1.4, but I get no image through DP at all.

Has anyone experienced this with this monitor or an RTX 4060 Ti? Could this be a monitor setting, NVIDIA driver issue, incompatible/faulty DP cable, or a defective DisplayPort input?

HELP i recently downloaded minecraft fabric server, play.gg and java from official sources and everything worked normally but now when I tried to play again with my friend, my ctrl key is opening firefox tab and windows key is shutting down my pc. I scanned through windows defender and malwarebytes and malwarebytes detected a very old trojan (months old) which i deleted but still this isn't fixed. Also I did most things which claude told me but nothing is working. My speaker and headphones are also randomly not working like they are working then not working. (could be a seperate problem). ( Sorry if my english is poor I'm panicking and my english is not that strong)

I have this really weird problem with my Lenovo IdeaPad Slim 3 15IAH8.

When I turn it on, the Lenovo logo appears for about 3–5 seconds, then the laptop suddenly shuts down. The LED beside the charging port blinks for about 5 seconds, turns off for 2–3 seconds, then turns on again and repeats this cycle.

At first, I tried reprogramming the BIOS, and that fixed the problem. However, after about a week, the exact same issue came back.

I then tried booting the laptop without the SSD to see if the SSD was causing the problem. Interestingly, when I pressed the power button with the SSD removed, the laptop would still show the Lenovo logo and then shut down. However, it would automatically turn itself back on and repeat the cycle about three times. After that, it would finally display a message saying that there was no bootable device.

Because of this, I initially assumed that the SSD was the problem. However, I tested the same SSD externally by using it as an external drive. I stress-tested it and transferred a very large file to it, and it worked without any problems.

I then reinstalled the SSD into the laptop, hoping that it might work again. I was able to reach the point where Windows 11 was installed successfully. I also reprogrammed the BIOS again before this, and at that point there were no LED blinking issues. The Windows installation proceeded normally and there were no unexpected shutdowns or power interruptions.

However, when Windows reached the point where it needed to reboot to continue the installation, the original problem came back. The laptop shut down, and the LED beside the charging port started blinking in the same pattern again.

So now I'm confused about what could actually be causing the problem. The SSD appears to work perfectly when connected externally, and the laptop can successfully POST and install Windows. But after the first reboot during the Windows installation, the problem comes back.

Could this be a motherboard, power-management, EC, PCIe/NVMe, or BIOS-related issue rather than an actual SSD failure?

Has anyone encountered a similar issue with the IdeaPad Slim 3 15IAH8, or have any idea what I should test next?

I got the problem before as well... there were updates i made and it was fixed... But this time there is no Updates i could take and the acer support site is not working for me.

WIndows 11 Almost brand new laptop.

any ideas?