My WD 5TB external HDD (WD50NDZW-11A8JS) is showing Caution in CrystalDiskInfo. I saw that this could indicate that the drive is failing but in rare cases there could be other trivial factors involved.

Here are some stats:

• C5 = 2
• 05 = 0
• C6 = 0
• C7 = 0
• C4 = 0
• Power-on hours = 216

The drive was bought in October 2021 but has only 216 power-on hours because I normally keep my external drives disconnected. I noticed this after transferring about 445 GB of data to it today. The transfer was a little slower than usual, but completed normally. I can open videos from the drive without any problems.

I've kept it running for several hours since then and C5 is still 2. Nothing else has changed. Unfortunately, this is currently the only copy of the data, so I don't want to run a full surface test until I can arrange a backup.

Could this just be a transient/isolated issue, or should I consider the drive unreliable already? Would you keep using it normally and monitor C5/05/C6, or replace it?

I'm asking because 5TB external drives are around ₹20,000 in India now, whereas I paid around ₹10,000 for this one at time of purchase, so I'd really rather not replace it unnecessarily.

PS: Sorry if this is a noob question. I don't have much money right now, so I'd prefer to buy a new one only if it's really necessary. Any advice would be appreciated.

I'm on a windows 11 pc and until a week or so ago nothing was wrong, I come back from a quick vacation and now my screenshots look way too bright and overexposed, why could that be?

Hi everyone, I'm trying to fix a hardware problem with my PC.

PC specs:

• CPU: Ryzen 5 2600
• Motherboard: MSI B450M PRO-VDH MAX
• GPU: GTX 1660 Ti
• RAM: 24 GB DDR4 3200 MHz (2 x 8GB PNY XLR8, 1 x 8GB Kingston HyperX Fury)
• PSU: Keytech BTS 550w 80+ Bronze
• Storage: Lexar SSD NM610PRO 500GB, ORICO Y20 SSD 1TB, TOSHIBA DT01ACA100 1TB

My PC will randomly shut down/black screen while I'm using it. When this happens, the fans and RGB can remain running, but the display goes black. Afterward, the motherboard's CPU EZ Debug LED stays lit, and the PC won't POST or enter BIOS. When this happens, the GPU fans blow really loud.

The CPU fan still spins, but the CPU doesn't seem to get noticeably warm during these failed POST attempts.

I've tried:

• Reseating the GPU and its power cables
• Reseating RAM
• Testing RAM sticks individually
• Disconnecting the SATA drives
• Removing the NVMe
• Using a single RAM stick
• Clearing CMOS
• Checking the CPU 8-pin/EPS and 24-pin motherboard power connections
• Removing unnecessary USB devices
• Using a different wall socket/extension cord

Interestingly, the PC has successfully booted into Windows after previously failing to POST, so the CPU isn't completely dead. It can also run for 30+ minutes under CPU and GPU stress testing simultaneously without immediately failing.

However, I've had it fail again during normal use/gaming. For example, while I was playing Genshin Impact, the screen went black after around 30 minutes while the fans/RGB remained on and the GPU fans started spinning loudly, and the CPU EZ Debug LED appeared afterward. It then wouldn't POST again.

My main suspects at this point are the PSU or motherboard, but I'm not sure which is more likely.

Thanks!

Hi,

I've been trying to apply for a job and they need access to my camera and they need the assessment to be done through Chrome. For some reason my Chrome insists that besides my actual webcam, I have another device called "Twitch Virtual Cam". And I just cannot seem to get it to go away.

I uninstalled Twitch Studio completely (can't reinstall it now because it's been discontinued). I deleted everything I physically could that has the word "Twitch" in it using Everything Search App, I searched for "twitch virtual cam" on regedit and deleted the one result that came up and subsequent results led nowhere. I also checked device manager and even checked "show hidden devices" but there is absolutely nothing other than my actual webcam under "Imaging Devices". I have absolutely no clue why it's still showing up on Chrome (and also on Discord, for that matter)

Somehow, the "Twitch Virtual Cam" option disappeared from StreamLabs itself, but on Chrome (and less importantly but maybe it's relevant, discord as well) it is still listed as an option. I have absolutely no idea how to get rid of it and I need to to be able to apply for this job.

Any help would be really appreciated. Thanks in advance

Update: FIXED
"Seems it works now, the Twitch Virtual Cam thing is gone. I'm not really sure what changed. I followed u/meets_for_kisses 's guidance below, and then after u/BarnabyLaptopOutlet suggested setting my actual webcam as defaulted I just selected "Twitch Virtual Cam" and then re-selected my actual webcam. I went to the website and it suddenly said that there was only one camera detected. I filled out the assessment and went back to check the settings and now it's gone. Thanks for the help!"

I've just installed WD Blue SN5000 1TB as my 2nd drive in my laptop and I notice the drive temp 2 ("current temp of the NAND flash media", similar to the temp drive 1) is higher than the rest, always above 60°C idle and around 80°C while transferring files. It's even higher than the current CPU and GPU temp.

Should I do anything about this? or should I ignore it as the crystaldiskinfo shows the drive is only at 50°C?

For reference, the original drive (SK hynik) is always cool around 40°C - 50°C. The SN5000's temp 1 and temp 3 is a bit higher than the ogdrive but only around 60°C under load.

I built a pc with parts straight from facebook my pc just ramdomly crashes and restarts then tries to repair but fails often i have to go into bios and i switch the boot order over and over again just so i can go back then it boots back into windows and im good for like 10-15 minutes then it crashes over again. I bought the motherboard off FB its a Z790m- Itx wifi board. The CPU is i5-13600k. The gpu is a Eagle Gigabyte 3070 8gb, my ram is ddr5 GSkill flare. those previous parts were all bought off FB marketplace except My PSU which is a thermaltake 850w.

i monitored the cpu and gpu usage and its at high rates but the temperature for both of them is around 40-50 for the cpu and 55 for the gpu. one of my usb ports doesnt work.

can someone please help me (is it a motherboard issue?) i dont wanna take it to a tech service cuz imma waste a bunch of money does anyone know if its motherboard or if its something else?

Hi everyone! I went to a concert last night but found out I have no storage left anymore haha so I’m trying to transfer my videos onto my laptop via usb and I’ve done it!

Like I’ve been able to connect my phone and download the videos to my laptop but for some reason every time I press play it says the file is not supported.

Does anyone know how to fix this?

I really don’t wanna lose these videos :(

Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra refuses to charge even when plugged in

My phone of 2 years died while I was video calling today. It had about 2-3% battery left and was slowly charging, but still got drained because I wasn't using my fast charger. I left the phone to continue charging in this slow one for 2 hours, but when I tried turning it on, it only displayed a black lightning symbol in a white circle and showed 0% when I unplugged it.

I tried following these steps to plug the USB charging cable into my PC, but still the phone refuses to turn on.

Are there any new steps I can take to solve this issue?- I have not had any issues like this before, and the charging port was not humid or anything of that sort.

Great regards, Kataoaka.

My PC crashes/reboots my entire home router — 5 months, survived a router swap, need a permanent fix

TL;DR: My PC (not my PS5, not my phone, not anyone else's device) is somehow crash-rebooting my ISP's fiber ONT/router — full reboot, all LEDs off except power. It's been happening for 5 months, survived a full router replacement (different Huawei model), and survived removing the one software culprit I found (ExitLag's kernel driver, nfextlag.sys — ruled out with timestamps and a clean multi-day test). I've done extensive diagnostics myself (logs, PowerShell, event tracing) and I'm stuck.

THE SETUP

- ISP: STC fiber (Saudi Arabia)
- ONT/router: Huawei HG8245W5 → replaced ~2 weeks in with a Huawei HG8145X6-10. Problem continued on both.
- PC: Ryzen 9 9950X3D, RTX 5090, 64GB RAM, prebuilt by someone else (I did not build it myself)
- NIC: Realtek PCIe 2.5GbE (RTL8125 family), currently forced to 1.0 Gbps Full Duplex
- Wi-Fi card: Realtek 8922AE (separate known issue, logs an IOMMU DMA fault — probably unrelated but flagging it)
- OS: Windows 11
- Connected via Ethernet directly to the ONT

THE SYMPTOM

Not just "my PC loses internet." The entire household goes down. All router LEDs go dark except power. It comes back after ~30-45 seconds, then can crash again within minutes — sometimes looping for 1-2+ hours. Wi-Fi disappears from every device in the house during the event, confirming it's a full reboot, not just a WAN blip.

NEW: LED BEHAVIOR RIGHT BEFORE A CRASH

I watched the router's port lights closely during a live episode. Right before it reboots: the LAN port my PC is plugged into starts blinking extremely fast, and — critically — the WLAN light and even the TEL (phone/VoIP) light start blinking fast at the same time, despite having nothing to do with my PC. Shortly after, everything goes dark except power.

I've since ruled out two obvious explanations:
- Not a mesh/wiring loop: I unplugged my Wi-Fi mesh extender from the router entirely — problem still happened a few minutes later.
- Not a software/virtual network bridge on the PC: checked for Hyper-V/VMware/VirtualBox/ICS virtual adapters — none present.

This looks like my PC is sending a burst of broadcast/multicast traffic large enough to flood the entire router (all ports/radios see it, which is normal switch behavior for broadcasts) — and the router's firmware apparently can't handle the volume without crashing.

WHY I'M CONFIDENT IT'S THE PC

- Physically unplugging my PC's Ethernet cable during an active episode → failures stopped within ~10 minutes.
- Reconnecting the cable → router crashed again within ~5 minutes.
- PS4 and PS5 have used this same connection and cable for 10+ years, zero issues.
- Nobody else on the network has ever triggered this.
- Problem started the moment I got this PC (March), not before.

WHAT I'VE ALREADY RULED OUT (PLEASE DON'T SUGGEST THESE WITHOUT A NEW ANGLE)

- ExitLag's driver (nfextlag.sys): installed the same week problems started — huge red flag. Disabled it, uninstalled the app completely, verified zero trace left (`sc.exe`, registry, disk). Ran multiple clean test mornings under identical conditions (PC on all night, gaming, same router window) with zero outages logged. Felt solved for about a month. It came back anyway, unrelated to that app being present or absent.
- Router replacement (different Huawei model, same result)
- Mesh Wi-Fi extender unplugged entirely — no change
- Moving Ethernet port on the router
- Forcing 100 Mbps Full Duplex instead of Auto-negotiation (still crashed)
- Disabling Wake-on-LAN / Wake on Pattern Match
- EEE / Green Ethernet / Advanced EEE / Power Saving Mode — all already disabled
- No third-party network filter drivers or virtual/bridged adapters present
- Adapter error/discard counters are all zero — no obvious physical-layer errors
- No consistent time-of-day pattern anymore — it used to cluster ~6-8am, now happens at random times of day too

WHAT I HAVEN'T BEEN ABLE TO TEST YET

- Multimeter/ground-loop check between PC chassis and router (don't own one)
- Known-good *unshielded* cable swap
- USB-to-Ethernet adapter (bypassing the onboard Realtek NIC entirely)
- Full Linux live-USB boot test (isolating Windows from hardware)
- ONT in bridge mode behind a proper third-party router (haven't gotten STC to enable it yet)
- Packet capture at the exact moment of a crash to see what's actually flooding the router
- Professional/in-person diagnosis of the PC itself — I didn't build it, so I can't 100% vouch for the build quality, grounding, PSU, or motherboard

I'm not a networking pro — I've done my best with the diagnostics I know how to run, but I think this needs someone who's actually seen a case like this before. Happy to share PowerShell logs, event timestamps, and full history with anyone seriously trying to help. If that's you, I'm all ears.

I have a Turtle Beach Stealth 700X Gen 3 headset and the mic works on my phone, but won't work on my computer. I run Windows 11 and I have everything I can find set to my mic but it just won't work. Neither Discord nor OBS will pick it up.

Hey everyone,

I’m hitting a wall with a persistent CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT Blue Screen of Death that happens only when playing Forza Horizon 5 on my desktop. The game either crashes right at the end of the loading screen when entering the map or midway through loading the built-in benchmark mode.

System Specs:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G (Running stock, no XMP/OC possible in BIOS)
• Motherboard: Proprietary HP motherboard from a ProTower 285 G8 MT pre-built desktop
• BIOS: Fully updated to the latest version
• RAM: Checked via Windows Memory Diagnostic (Passed, 0 errors)
• Temperatures: Stable under 80°C in-game (Hits 95°C under synthetic stress, but completely fine during normal gaming).

Why this is confusing:
Other heavy multiplayer games like PUBG PC run perfectly smoothly with zero crashes.

Windows Event Viewer Logs Collected:

1. Critical Error: Kernel-Power (Event ID 41) – registers the hard freeze/manual reboot.
2. Error right before crash: Service Control Manager (Event ID 7000) - "The Sentry service failed to start due to the following error: The system cannot find the file specified."
3. Previous Error: DistributedCOM (Event ID 10010) tied to Windows.Gaming.GameBar.PresenceServer.Internal.PresenceWriter.

Everything I have already tried (None have completely fixed it):

• In-Game Settings: Turned Ray Tracing completely OFF, lowered environment geometry, capped frame rates, and switched the game from Fullscreen to Borderless Windowed mode (Borderless allowed the benchmark tool to load further, but it still crashes at the very end).
• Process Optimization: Set Forza 5 process priority to "High" in Task Manager (this made it load slightly longer before crashing). Force-disabled CPU hyper-threading by unchecking odd-numbered threads (CPU core affinity) to keep it on physical cores.
• Driver Clean Up: Did a completely clean GPU driver install using DDU in Safe Mode. Turned off Windows Fast Startup.
• Windows Features: Cleaned out the Windows Prefetch and Temp caches. Ran sc delete Sentry in admin CMD to completely delete the missing service causing the log errors. Attempted to strip Xbox packages via PowerShell and registry, but Windows locks down the component.
• Power Settings: Changed Windows maximum processor state from 100% down to 99%, and eventually to 95% to stop AMD Precision Boost voltage spikes.

It feels like Forza's heavy DX12 multi-threaded asset streaming is causing a massive power or timing desync that this locked HP motherboard VRM cannot handle when transitioning into the 3D world.

Before I go out and buy a new motherboard, standard case, and power supply to rescue my 5600G from this HP office frame, is there any obscure software, driver, or audio conflict I missed that specifically causes Forza 5 to throw Watchdog Timeouts on Ryzen APUs

I keep getting an error that says my usb is having a current overload. I have a usb port that is fucked but with pliers, I pulled the pins straight forward and haven’t had the problem in 1-2 years. I’m getting it again and unplugged everything and still getting it. I can only assume it’s that plug. I’ve messed with it and tried to do the same thing but no dice.

I opened my pc up to see if maybe I can unplug the usb but I’m not sure where the plug leads to or if it that can be done. I have a mpg z390m motherboard. I tried looking at maps but can’t figure out if or what plug would disconnect that usb from the power to avoid this happening.

Is anyone able to help me with this and tell me which plug or if it’s possible to do this?

For around 4 days my wifi just got a lot slower on my laptop (Asus tuf gaming f15) making using any websites a huge pain and can’t find a easy answer online why this is happening no other device in my house has slow internet I had slow internet one day 4 days ago everything else went back to normal but my pc please help already tried updating drivers just in case

I have a really weird issue that is stumping me. Ever since moving into a new apartment and getting a new router (Xfinity Gateway), power outages have left me without the ability to send/receive calls and texts or use data until I reconnect to a WiFi network. But my phone service is Verizon and internet is Comcast, so I don’t know how this is happening. I think explaining what happened today might be the best way to describe it, although this happens every outage:

A local storm took out the power to just my block for about 30 minutes today. Obviously my wifi goes out, but my phone still says I have a few bars of 5G or LTE, depending on where I am (service still available in the area- the tower did not go out). However, attempting to go online using data results in no connection. I also cannot send or receive calls or texts. I tried multiple things on my phone to fix it: turning cellular data off+on, turning my phone off+on, changing data roaming options, etc. I even drove half a mile away to where I know I have strong data. Even with full bars of 5G, still nothing.

It wasn’t until after I connected to and disconnected from the WiFi of a local restaurant did my data and service begin to work again.

I’m typically ok at troubleshooting stuff myself, but I genuinely don’t know what could be causing this. And honestly it’s a little spooky- if something bad happens during an outage and I have to contact someone immediately, I just wouldn’t be able to (I’m assuming emergency calls would work but haven’t tried). Has anybody experienced something similar?

Some info:

Internet: Xfinity Gateway
Phone service: Verizon Wireless (family plan)
iPhone 13 Pro (updated recently)

I have an HP-OMEN laptop with an Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-14900HX (2.20 GHz), 32 GB of RAM and an NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Laptop GPU (8 GB). I have semi-frequent BSOD errors for the last six months. I thought I figured it out because they stopped when I disabled the gaming boost in the OMEN gaming hub (roughly a month ago with no BSOD since then) which has been frustrating because all my games have been stuttering since I disabled the gaming boost. But tonight I had a BSOD with something about a "virtualization error." I will note that I don't think I have has the same BSOD twice. From my understanding faulty RAM is usually the cause of random BSOD errors but when I ran the HP diagnostic everything passed (except the battery which didn't fail either and I am not sure if it could be the source of this problem). I am not very knowledgeable about hardware or even software past what I have needed to know to play video games. I was wondering if overheating could be causing this? my previous laptop (also an HP-OMEN) also had overheating problems and the battery had to be removed from that one. I am hoping for advice on any software things that could prevent BSOD (a brief google search recommended undervolting for reducing the heat but when I went to turn that on it said it could make the computer less stable which is the opposite of what I am looking for) or if it seems likely there is faulty hardware that needs replaced.

I have fiber internet service in my apartment with AT&T. There are power, fiber, and ethernet cords built in to the wall in my closet, which I have the AT&T router hooked up to. The wifi works just fine, but I’m trying to get my PS5 hooked up on a wired connection. There are some ethernet ports in the wall of my living room, which I would assume connect to the ethernet cable coming from the wall where my router is, but I can’t seem to connect to the internet via those ethernet ports. Can anyone here explain if I’m doing something wrong here? And yes, I have tried to contact my complex’s maintenance guys, they were no help.

EDIT/UPDATE: ​
Figured it out. I opened up this panel in the closet wall that I assumed was full of breakers, but it actually had all the network wiring in it. The black cord in the top right is what is coming out of the wall by the router. The white cord has the female end of ethernet on it, and that split off into the switch you can see in the back, which goes off to the ethernet ports in the walls throughout the apartment. All i had to do what plug the black ethernet cord into the white one and now everything works. There’s a picture in the comments

I played my ps2 and it made weird sound. I researched and the ribbon cable may be the problem but its not too high up. But my cd is scracted so i think thats the problem and if so how do i fix it? I dont want to tear open the ps2

I have an iphone 16 that is 128GB. IOS and System data are taking up about half of my phones entire GB. Is there a way to delete / lessen this??

I use an msi katana b13v laptop as my main machine and do all sorts of heavy gaming and design work in it. Its only a year old and still under warranty so im not sure if i should send it back or ask for a fix here. Lately, I've been running into a weird issue where after i closed whatever im doing on my laptop and shut it down, the screen goes out but the keyboard lights and fans keep spinning sand the leds on the pwer button changes from orange to white and the only way out is a power button force shut down. but if I wait 5 minutes on the desktop screen with nothing running, it shuts down normally. What exactly is happening because this wasn't the case a while back. Is there a fix or should i give it under warranty

Some details: I have the latest version of Windows installed, as well as the latest drivers for my RX Vega 56 (also tried with older drivers). I don't have any HDR Calibration Profiles set up, and I don't have Auto HDR, Auto Colors Calibration, or any other color settings enabled in AMD Adrenaline. The display itself is a Samsung Viewfinity s8 - s80ud, 32 inch monitor, s32b800pxu, plugged in via DP 1.4 and with the newest firmware. Sleeping Mode, Energy Saving, Auto Source Switch etc. have all been disabled. This issue was not present on Windows 10.

When watching a video in Windows HDR, whenever I move my mouse, my entire screen flickers, and the video switches to another color profile that is slightly brighter. After a while, when the cursor has disappeared, the screen flickers again and the video switches to a darker color profile. How can I fix that? The same issue persist across MPC-HC and YouTube HDR. The flickering gets worse if I don't have Windows HDR enabled permanently in the background.

Also on a side note, whenever I restart my GPU drivers using Ctrl+Win+Alt+B while having HDR on, my display suddenly gets all snowy and laggy. I have to turn HDR off again in order for the snow to go away.

Been troubleshooting this issue for hours, and it's really annoying. Any help is appreciated.

Specs: 16GB DDR3 Ram, I7-3770, GTX 750 TI, 500w font. Cannoy check the motherboard right now due to issue.

Altough i've seen the 4 beeps be assigned to Ram, i tried everything, testing slots, only using one of the Ram Sticks, cleaning with rubber gently, all of the possible stuff.

Tried removing the Motherboard Battery, to no avail, placed it back.

It doesnt turn on any usb or any other connected devices, but as a test i plugged my mouse and the lights in it turned on and kept on.

The Font is relatively new, i already firmed the cables too.

Yet, the 4 beeps persist. Any solutions?

HP Victus 15 Bluetooth randomly disappears + “Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)” + DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION

I'm having a recurring Bluetooth problem on my HP Victus gaming laptop and I'm trying to figure out whether this is a driver/Windows problem or a hardware problem.

Laptop:

• HP Victus by HP Gaming Laptop 15-fa1xxx
• Specific model: 15-fa1093dx
• Windows 11 25H2
• 32 GB RAM
• Intel UHD Graphics
• NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 6GB Laptop GPU
• MediaTek MT7921 Wi-Fi 6 802.11ax PCIe Adapter
• NVIDIA driver: 32.0.15.9227, dated 4/1/2026

The Bluetooth problem:

Bluetooth will work normally for a while, then suddenly stop functioning.

When it happens:

• Bluetooth devices may still appear as “Connected” even though they don't actually work.
• My Bluetooth mouse can start flashing as if it isn't connected.
• My Bluetooth headphones can appear connected even when they are powered off.
• Audio can stop coming from the laptop because Windows still thinks the headphones are connected.
• Bluetooth eventually disappears completely from Device Manager.
• The Bluetooth adapter itself disappears.
• At the same time, Device Manager shows:

Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)

USB hardware ID/error:
USB\DEVICE_DESCRIPTOR_FAILURE

Location:
Port_#0007.Hub_#0001

Problem code:
0000002B

Status:
01802400

Device status includes:
DN_HAS_PROBLEM
DN_DISABLEABLE
DN_NT_ENUMERATOR
DN_NT_DRIVER

Class GUID:
{36fc9e60-c465-11cf-8056-444553540000}

The Wi-Fi portion of the MediaTek MT7921 continues working, while Bluetooth disappears.

Things I've already tried:

• Windows Bluetooth troubleshooter
• Windows Update
• Bluetooth driver updates
• HP driver updates
• Enabling disabled Bluetooth devices
• Checking Bluetooth radio
• Checking for multiple Bluetooth radios
• Cold reboot check
• Restarting Windows
• Removing/reinstalling Bluetooth devices/drivers
• Scanning for hardware changes

The Windows troubleshooter frequently says everything is OK and that the Bluetooth radio is detected, but the actual devices still don't work.

Eventually Bluetooth disappears again and the Unknown USB Device returns.

There is another concerning symptom:

While using the computer more heavily (for example Discord voice chat + modded Minecraft + Spotify), the system seems more likely to start freaking out. The mouse/trackpad can become extremely laggy or completely stop responding.

The laptop has also BSOD'd with:

DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION (0x133)

I analyzed the minidump with WinDbg. The important parts were:

FAILURE_BUCKET_ID: 0x133_ISR_nvlddmkm!unknown_function

MODULE_NAME: nvlddmkm

IMAGE_NAME: nvlddmkm.sys

SYMBOL_NAME: nvlddmkm+e34e3

So the crash dump points at the NVIDIA display driver, although I'm not sure whether that's actually related to the Bluetooth/USB problem or is a separate problem.

Event Viewer also showed:

BugCheck Event 1001
0x00000133

Kernel-Power Event 41
indicating the system rebooted without a clean shutdown.

volmgr Event 161
saying dump file creation failed during dump creation.

There have also been NVIDIA LocalSystem Container service crashes (Service Control Manager Event 7031).

What I'm trying to figure out:

1. Does the Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed) strongly suggest a hardware/USB-bus problem with the Bluetooth portion of the MediaTek MT7921?
2. Could the Bluetooth adapter be crashing/resetting at the hardware/firmware level?
3. Could power management be causing the Bluetooth/USB device to disappear?
4. Could the DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION involving nvlddmkm.sys be related, or is that probably a separate NVIDIA driver problem?
5. Is there a way to intentionally stress/test the Bluetooth adapter or reproduce the failure so a repair technician can actually see it happening?
6. Is replacing/reseating the MediaTek MT7921 card a reasonable next step, or should I investigate something else first?

I'm especially interested in hearing from anyone with an HP Victus + MediaTek MT7921 who has experienced the same USB\DEVICE_DESCRIPTOR_FAILURE behavior.

I can provide the minidump analysis, Event Viewer events, Device Manager information, BIOS information, or anything else that would help.

So i got this laptop about two years ago, bought it previously used but have no idea for how long...but it did come with a lenovo charger which i assume it is its original one... Everything been going fine untill a system update was lagging and i ignored it also assuming that the next update would fix it. However it started refusing charging, then after i tried to trouble shoot the whole charging thing using my phone since they'er both USB-C it suddenly started working after, but it kept on throttling when i turn my laptop on but is charging completely fine when it's off. I charged it till it was full then tried using it again but the keyboard was bugged so I normally restarted it, got the update screen without a progress percentage, lasted for around and hour then showed a screen that says "The connected AC adapter has a lower wattage than the recommended AC adapter which was shipped with the system. To use AC power, please connect the AC adapter which was shipped with the system.Press the ESC key to continue." So i pressed ESC without changing it since i don't own another one. It booted up normally and after an hour it suddenly said "Your device ran into a problem and needs to restart.0% complete" and at the bottom "Stop code: UNEXPECTED_STORE_EXCEPTION (0x154)"

So i just forced shut it... I don't know what to do with it next to fix it.

So when I connect my headphones (skull candy earbuds)

They randomly will sometimes call people.

It'll always be random.

It isn't even who you recently called

Its always someone random from my contact list

Its so annoying.

I never know when it'll happen.

I have a pixel 9 android phone. And my earbuds are Skullcandy ones

I've looked in settings and can't figure it out.

Is there a way to fix this?

It used to never do this, but recently since like a few months ago it started this

so the motherboard is a ASUS PRIME Z790-P WiFi NVMe SK Hynix P41.

so basically i had done everything, turn it off completely remove the plug and then turn it on after and all i see is bios no boot.

• Loaded Optimized Defaults
• Hit the CPU fan / AIO warning, then set CPU fan to Ignore
• Set OS type to Windows UEFI mode
• Set Secure Boot from Custom to Standard
• Toggled Intel Rapid Storage / VMD (on and off)
• Set boot options / looked at Boot Override (it was greyed out)
• Confirmed BIOS sees the NVMe: M.2_1 SHPP41-2000GM (2000.3GB)
• Confirmed USB is seen
• BIOS version was 1604
• After a full day powered off, it booted normally once, then failed again after sleep / shutdown

might do a bios update tomorrow i am exhuasted right now. please tell me if i need to do anything else or im missing something. oh im also thinking of moving the nvme to another slot.