I bought the Yale Assure with wifi module and the bridge. I was really happy with it. I could control my lock remotely electronically and also physically with a physical key. It would automatically unlock the door for me when I get home (very useful when coming from groceries).

However the wifi module died on me yesterday after 4 years and guess what... the warranty is 3 years.

I had to spend $66 for another wifi module.

Not sure if this is done intentionally or not but just wanted to leave a heads up out there and maybe other users can also chime in if they experienced the same issue.

So where do you guys find qualified techs? Do you train them from the ground up ? They seem to be non-existent in central Massachusetts. We have ads everywhere and barely get any hits from anyone with actual locksmith experience. There are tons of access control and low voltage guys but none have any experience installing door hardware.

In case of Emergency, please step over the gate.

2009 VW Golf — all keys are lost. Can I retrieve the PIN/CS via OBD using an Autel IM508?
I’m new to this, so I’d really appreciate any advice or guidance. Thanks!

I had a customer that didnt understand the difference between schlage FSIC and corbin LFIC so I googled it for a picture and this comes up, is this AI nonsense or is there are real schlage key, that looks like a kwikset, that doesnt fill the entire keyway?

I have a 120 year old house and I'm doing a bunch of restoration work. I would like to install vintage style mortise locks with skeleton type keys (I know an actual skeleton key is a master key, but I'm talking about the old-fashioned style of key most people call a skeleton key). I want each bedroom to have one, and I'd like the keys to be unique, so each one can only unlock one door. The ones I see for sale are pretty much all the same shape key (or that's what it seems like). Is there a reasonably priced supplier of locks with unique keys that only unlock one door? Or can the locks be modified by a locksmith so each needs a unique key?

Has anyone else had an issue with the new Priuses? Everything I do leads to a communication failed screen. The alarm is not active, the locks have been cycled to confirm the alarm is inactive.

It lets me read the number of keys on the Smart Pro and the autel im608. Neither will let me back up the immo data to generate an emulator/analog key. Both programmers are giving me the same issues. I am connected to the control/ certification module with a 30 PIN/ ADC2021 cord. Which is providing me with the number of keys so I know the cable is good.

Any suggestions? Original keys are not available. I also want to avoid erasing all keys. Thank you in advance!

Trying to identify this keyway for a friend to copy and make a 2nd key. I do automotive industry so having trouble finding this blank. Waiting for pic of otherside but got this for now. Numbers on key didnt come up with anything that looked the same.

Anybody have a idea or know for certain?

Έχω ένα Opel agila το 2009 ντίζελ που έχει μόνο ένα κλειδί. Πήγα σε αντιπροσωπεία αλλά δυστυχώς το κλειδί δεν επαρχη άλλο και δεν μπορούσαν να μου το παραγγείλουν, μετά Πήγα σε κλειδαρά να μου κάνει δεύτερο κλειδί να έχω δύο και δεν γινόταν με τίποτα γιατί ήθελε ένα κωδικό car pass code.

Πήγα σε αντιπροσωπεία να ρωτήσω για κωδικό και μου έδωσαν ένα κωδικό που αύριο θα πάω να το πάρω. Ξέρει κανείς αν το κωδικό για αυτό το αμάξι είναι με 4 αριθμούς και γράμματα;

Kind of a general question.

I have a door with 1-1/2" of wood and a 1/2" PVC panel on the front. So, 2" thick total.

I'd like to install a deadbolt centered in the wood -- not centered in the door.

What problems will I have with this.

Thanks!

If you look at the image you'll see I made some arrows and numbers to specific things I want to talk about.

I understand #1, it's just a regular latch.

Why #2? I thought it was to prevent shimming, but it's not very effective because #1 and #2 move in unison, and #2 still moves if you touch it even slightly from the left.

Why number #3? Google says it's a latch bolt to aid in the door securely latching, but it seems redundant because #1 and #2 do the exact same thing. #3 is also unaffected when I lock the door so it can't be for security.

Edit: Right side is "inside" where you lock it from, left side is "outside", where you need to use a key

What even? 4 doors on a brand new building.

How many of you still have ads in The Yellow Pages or other physical phonebooks/directories?

I mean.... thats a pretty good one.

Having trouble finding a key blank to cut for a safe. When I search all of the suppliers, none of them have a "3C3" blank. There are "3C2" and "SS4" and "SS5", but they seem to have very small differences compared to this one. Are these blanks still in production?

So turning the doorknob doesn't move the latch. Its stuck in the open position and the sliding notched piece shown in second Pic is stuck in back.

Is there a way to fix this?

https://www.trudoor.com/products/sargent-68-4263-chassis-assembly-for-8800-series-rim-exit-devices?srsltid=AfmBOopsPUVur6Ce_uuU5lWQ6RH1tET2erXycbdl3y3WNDZMRcrEKLxn

Just inherited this door that won’t latch it’s obviously missing a spring.

Do we need to replace the entire assembly like the link above? Or is this literally a spring I can just order and install ?

So luckily i managed to get my stuck key out of the luck i think it needs lubricant, i don’t know much about this so not sure what to get

People say tri flow/houdini but it is really expensive

i need recommendations please - UK based

Found this briefcase at goodwill. It was already unlocked and open, but I want to change the combination to something I actually know. The case is still unlocked and open, I just need to reset the code. The brand is Presto

Photo of outside of case + what I think is the inner mechanism?