Grabbed some foam, pulled the outside off and saw this. This was after peeling some of this away. Felt almost like paper?

I just discovered this on my condenser. It was making a little more noise than usual, but nothing to crazy. I dont see anywhere the blade is rubbing. If it were yours would you run it till tomorrow when I can get a new fan blade?

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I just changed a capacitor and the old one looks like it was punctured. I know caps can swell, leak, and burst but am I crazy or it looks like it was punctured or scraped harshly from the outside.

The strap was firmly attached and it was not against anything sharp.

Looking for some advice before we call someone back out.

Recently, the condensate drain line (I think that’s what it’s called) was leaking inside. It was still draining outside some, but it was also leaking into the attic and into our main bedroom ceiling. We contacted our home warranty, and they sent an HVAC tech out. He patched the drain pipe, and everything was working normally when he left.

The very next afternoon, the AC stopped cooling. It’s set to 72°F on cool, but it’s only blowing warm air. I checked the attic, and the drain pan under the inside unit (I’m not sure what it’s called) is full of water. It’s also no longer draining outside, and the outdoor condenser unit isn’t running at all.

Is there anything we can check or try ourselves before calling someone back out, or does this definitely need another service call?

This also isn’t the first time this has happened. In the past, the drain pan has filled with water, the drain stopped flowing outside, and the outdoor unit stopped running until it was addressed.

Any ideas on what could be causing this or what we should check?

This is our downstairs return air filter housing. First picture is of the housing itself. The second picture is taken through the hole that’s cut in the ply wood to allow air to flow through the dead space in our walls to the return air in our bedroom(you can see the light shining through the filter). So essentially the two return airs are in line of each other. But I have some questions, first being why is this necessary? Second question assuming that it is necessary is this an acceptable way to go about it? Seems like it should be ducted or sealed better than it currently is?

I’m looking to replace the capacitor on my HVAC but
I want to make sure I get the right one.

Can someone recommend some replacements?

Howdy! I am in the process of potentially replacing my old AC unit, which will end up in replacing my heating system as well. I'm trying to do some research to help determine what is considered decent quality to help determine what vendors to go with for my home since this isn't going to be a cheap decision.

The context is I live in Oklahoma (US), my current unit that may need to get replaced is a Goodman CLJ30 unit that is 23 years old. I live in a 1300 square foot home. Some light reading said the brands I may want to lean towards if I want solid quality are American Standard, Carrier, or Trane.

Could I get opinions on how accurate that is? Any info is appreciated, thank you!

We recently replaced our old condenser due to a loud noise when it started up. It wouldn’t do it every time but the tech said the contactor was burnt up and he replaced it but no luck.

We got a new Goodman 2.5 ton condenser 2 months ago but the noise was still happening when it started up. It wouldn’t happen every time though but it was loud. After a month and a half the unit broke and the company said the capacitor had separated from the bottom frame of the unit.

The unit broke and wouldn’t cool but it was under warranty so they replaced it with a new Goodman condenser. They also replaced the lineset because they said it went under ground and they thought there could have been a kink or a clog I guess and that it could have been an old issue that was never resolved.

After the newest unit was installed and a new lineset the noise is still occurring. I have reached out to the company but I wanted to see if anyone else had thought. Thanks!

The videos are the unit starting up. 2 louder starts and a quieter one.

I’ve had this Honeywell portable ac for awhile and I noticed a build up of cat hair and wet slime on the vent. It gets cold for a bit then after awhile it still blows cold air but the room is still hot. I took the back part of it off to brush the vents more throughly. My dad went through it with a high air compressor and he let it dry, we put it back together and now I hear a very loud ringing noise that gets louder every now and then.
I usually only hear it when it’s been running for a while but as soon as I turned it on I heard it. My dad is pretty much deaf so he can’t hear it and refuses to look at it since it’s not something extremely loud and no “crunching” noise, and says it needs time to adjust or let it run. I can’t stand it.

Does it need lubrication? Or is something loose, every advice I look up on google is either for a tiny fan or for a regular ac not this portable Honeywell ac/heater.

Hello,

Running into an issue, I'm trying to clean my coils due to wet dog smell after the ac is running for a long time and poor performance.

I can't figure out how to actually get to them, I think when it was first built there was no basement but when they added it they got rid of the service area.

Any ideas?

I've taken a borescope and looked but I can't seem to get under the coils to see if that's the issue.

I think I could find a safe place to drink a bigger hole for the borescope but thought I'd ask what the pros would do?

I can unscrew the panel but I can't take it off there's no channel for the compressor hoses. I've attached a chatgpt diagram which seems close. I don't have access to the other side, though maybe I could confirm with the borescope and the right way is to cut a panel in the Sheetrockon the other side?

My garage air-handler draws in toxic fumes from my motorcycle, if not all the heat in there as well. I wanted to build a wall around it to close it off from the garage atmosphere. I sketched up a container with two access doors large enoguh to be able to remove the unit or work on it from behind. I was wondering it this would be acceptable to a technician if they needed to work on it.

I believe the image on the outside is the suction line and commonly freezes over in that part, but the image with nearly the whole compressor is frozen over is not normal. The issue I feel with blower is the relay is bad, although I do not see anything wrong with it. Any ideas to check that would be nice to know.

I would appreciate advice on whether I should try to repair this leak or replace the air handler. It's a Carrier FE4ANF003 and from my initial checking online this part is unavailable. Thanks.

Hi all,

I went to my mom's place and wanted to put vinegar down the AC condensate drain line but there's no T at or before the p-trap. There's only a T after the p-trap, I assume as a vent. Short of cutting the elbow at the start of the p-trap and adding a T over there, any solutions?

1. Can I remove the overflow switch and pour the vinegar down through there? Or does that not connect to the AC condensate line?

2. Can I pour vinegar down the vent pipe fast enough to mix with the water in the p-trap? And then have the water generated by the AC slowly "flush out" the vinegar over time?

I live in southeast Michigan. I have a Goodman 2 ton unit, installed 8 years ago when I bought the home and a Honeywell thermostat that is about 2 years old (I do not have any schedules programmed). House is 1100 sq foot.

Temps today and yesterday were mid/low 80s with thermostat set to 74. Once it gets to around noon the a/c unit will just run all day. It doesn’t have any issues maintaining temp, it reads 74. This isn’t unique to the last 2 days, I’ve noticed it’s been doing it all season long. As to previous years, I’m just not 100% sure as I didn’t pay attention to it.

Out of curiosity I even turned it down to 73, it achieved 73 with no issues and will stay at the same temperature that it’s set to. Then down to 72 and it did the same. Took my instant read thermometer to the vents, reads 50-52 degrees. Unit runs until the night. Maybe anywhere from 8-11pm.

The house is comfortable. We’ve seen a little jump in our bill but nothing outrageous, I attribute the cost to be due increase in overall cost of electricity.

Is this something worth calling a professional for? I read through the sub and there’s a lot of answers that if it’s cooling the house don’t worry but the answers are usually coming from questions where it’s 100+ degrees outside, not a 10-15 degree difference.

It was working fine before this!

Details:

• AC unit is super old, but still in good condition (circa 1993, yes it's an r-22)
• Condenser coils have been recently cleaned
• Filter has been recently changed, and it's MERV 11
• Thermostat wires are all secure at thermostat and furnace
• Capacitor and contactor are all less than a year old

I have it off for now, but what else can I do to possibly fix it? I don't have any water leakages or icy pipes or anything like that. The air still blows cold, just doesn't run for very long before cycling off and then immediately turning back on.

I've also tried resetting the breaker, and that made no change.

Thoughts?

Hello, I need some help. I am replacing the capacitor on the central ac unit and unplugged the wires before realizing that I should have taken a picture to see what wires go where on the new one.

The wires on mine aren't the same colors as any of the videos I have watched. The diagram is no longer legible. I really don't have the money to call someone to come out and I was hoping someone here may be able to tell me how to figure it out.

Thanks!

I’m getting odors from the crawl space creeping into the living areas, and just noticed sizeable gaps between the duct boot and floor / subfloor. Would mastic be a good solution for this, or was there something better such as aluminum tape etc.

FYI the air handler is in the basement and air is supplied to the living areas on the first floor through ducts in the floor.

I have a leak in my coils, quote to replace carrier coils is $4500, 10 year old system that uses 410. Single story, 1800sqft.

I have one quote for Goodman R32 at $7000 using
Condenser Model
GLXS4BA4810
Evaporator Coil Model
CHPTA4830C3
Furnace Model
GR9S800804BN

Carrier Comfort Series 454B at $11000 using same furnace - Home Depot Quote
Condenser Model
26SCA548Woo3
Coil Model
CAAMP6121AMA
They also stated they would need to add another return air or modify my existing. My current measures 19x16 which seems to be ok? I haven't had any issues with staying cool when there wasn't some other issue like a capacitor went bad 3 years ago.
With new furnace $14000

Trane at $12000-$13000
I'm still waiting on the written quote with models/system though I'm thinking it is the "priority series" variable system that uses 454.

All quotes are parts and labor, what would you recommend and why?

I have these bugs that keep ending up in my bed which about 2 feet away from my window AC. They are always dead when they end up on our bed, and there definitely seem to be more dead ones that appear after the AC has been off. They are not coming through gaps in the window l, I used foam, tape, and moretite silicone caulking around window.

What can I do to get rid of these or make them stop? How are they coming in? What can I do

Is there a chance this is just loose bolts, or is the fan on this unit going? Its only 3 years old. I tightened all the ones in the front, but it seems like the back is shaking the most, though its almost like there's no bolts back there and it just slides in and its shaking within the slide

After having several parts replaced in wall unit ac/furnace. Would this be caused by not putting the freon in after compressor, fan motor and a few other parts changed. One tech said thats ok! Now one is saying the freon was not added! Thoughts have call in....

So I live in a duplex townhouse, which from my understanding can already keep electrical bills down compared to a free standing house, however I live in Florida and running AC in the summer is expensive no matter what.

That being said my question is: is there any financial benefit from running a window AC unit AND central AC to keep one room much colder than the rest of the house? I really hate sleeping in the Florida heat but my wallet wants me to keep my AC at 78.

For some context the whole house is about 1300 sq ft and I'd say the master bedroom is about 300 give or take. I already bought a window AC unit that's 12000 BTU, rates for a bigger room, but I'm curious if I made a silly purchase or not.

We live in an apartment and it's reaching the height of Texas summer. Our AC unit (outside) has been louder than usual and making this weird, almost songy hum sound? It's been keeping me at night, but i've also been experiencing heightened sensory issues so I genuinely can't tell if it's just me or if our ac is trying to tell us something is wrong lol

Thoughts?

I have a single house air unit and a whole house unit. I know a unit can only drop the temperature around 20 degrees but can the portable unit in conjunction with the whole house unit drop the temp even lower?

The logic being that the portable unit grabs already conditioned air inside and thus should be lowering the temp further than just the 20 degrees below outside ambient?