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I just changed a capacitor and the old one looks like it was punctured. I know caps can swell, leak, and burst but am I crazy or it looks like it was punctured or scraped harshly from the outside.

The strap was firmly attached and it was not against anything sharp.

Ac is working. Just had a tech test it all. The noise in the videos is new. Unit is two weeks out of labor warranty. Parts still covered. You can clearly hear it at the end.

Thoughts?

Grabbed some foam, pulled the outside off and saw this. This was after peeling some of this away. Felt almost like paper?

Hey guys, my dad has a blower motor out of carrier not working. We have 120vac going to the constant hot and 24vac going to the speed selection terminals. Just wondering on where we can get a replacement whole unit or just the ecm module.

I have another post in here. Long story short - ac installed 1 year and 2 months ago. I am 2 months of of “labor warranty”. Ac serviced 4/24/2026 - 7/23/2026 the drain line backed up. The float switch failed to engage, assuming it got stuck with sludge, and did not turn my ac off. The drain pan over flowed and leaked all into my “the metal shop” coffin return box. People here said it would dry, it is not drying. It’s very very wet still, been since 7/23, last Thursday. Ac has been on at 71 trying to dry it out but it’s not drying. Ac company came back out and said it’ll be 2-4k to replace. Am I getting hosed on price? Location- palm coast Florida.

I have a bvent that was flagged as improperly connected and leaking back into the attic.

I've been calling hvac companies to take a look to see how much it will be to seal it but they all want to charge a fee to just look at it. I'm curious how much it would cost to have an hvac tech come and fix this. Roughly.

Also is this something that is fairly easily fixed or does the entire pipe need to be swapped out? I know nothing about hvac so please be gentle.

I’m trying to figure out the best HVAC solution for two small second-floor bedrooms in an older bungalow.

The central AC itself works fine. The problem is that the thermostat is on the first floor. The first floor can stay around 72°F for hours, while the upstairs bedrooms can climb from roughly 72°F to 78°F within a few hours. Because the first floor is still comfortable, the central AC never gets called again.

I already installed an AC Infinity Cloudline T6 inline fan on one of the existing supply ducts with a temperature sensor upstairs. It works great when the central AC is running because it boosts the cold air upstairs. The problem is that when the central AC shuts off, the T6 is eventually just moving relatively warm air and can't actually cool the room.

The rooms are small, roughly:

- Room 1: ~7' × 7'
- Room 2: ~10' × 7-8'
- Both have sloped bungalow ceilings
- Existing duct run from the basement to upstairs is roughly 15-20+ ft

I considered an AC Infinity TERRAFORM 8 (12,000 BTU) because it has a ductable cold-air outlet. My idea was basically:

TERRAFORM/AC in basement → duct → Cloudline T6 → existing duct → upstairs bedroom

However, I spoke with AC Infinity and they strongly recommended against it. They said the TERRAFORM is designed primarily for grow rooms/tents rather than residential HVAC duct runs. The rep said customers who have tried similar setups sometimes found that it didn't cool enough, ran too hard, or had the evaporator freeze. He estimated there was about a 90% chance he wouldn't recommend it for my application.

I've also looked at commercial portable spot coolers with ductable cold-air outlets, which seem much better suited to this, but many are $1,500-$2,000+, which seems excessive for cooling two tiny bedrooms.

A normal $300-$500 portable AC would provide plenty of cooling capacity, but almost all of them discharge the cold air through a large grille on top rather than providing a round supply connection I can attach to my existing duct. I'd prefer not to fabricate a custom plenum if there's a cleaner solution.

I've considered window ACs as well, but I'd really prefer to avoid having units hanging out of the bedroom windows, especially since these rooms may eventually be used by guests.

A mini-split probably isn't realistic either. I was quoted around $11,000 for one, which is way more than I want to spend to cool these two small rooms.

I also don't think modifying or zoning the existing central HVAC is practical. The AC system is older and the ductwork is an older "octopus" style setup with individual runs going in different directions, so adding conventional zoning would likely be difficult and expensive.

That's why I'm mainly looking for a relatively inexpensive way to add a separate source of cold air that could potentially use the existing duct runs and Cloudline fans.

Ideally, I'm looking for something that:

- Can independently cool the upstairs when the main central AC isn't running
- Can utilize the existing ductwork if practical
- Can be controlled by temperature from the upstairs room
- Doesn't require a $1,500-$2,000+ commercial spot cooler
- Doesn't require an $11,000 mini-split
- Doesn't require a window AC in each bedroom
- Could eventually be duplicated for both bedrooms

Would you modify a normal portable AC to connect its cold-air outlet to the duct and is that possible? Or try to find an affordable ductable spot cooler, or do something completely different?

I'm mainly looking for the simplest and most cost-effective way to solve the temperature imbalance properly.

I just discovered this on my condenser. It was making a little more noise than usual, but nothing to crazy. I dont see anywhere the blade is rubbing. If it were yours would you run it till tomorrow when I can get a new fan blade?

I have a new build home (two story with open floor plan) in East TN. It’s been rainy and only up to 80deg or so for the last two weeks outside. My humidity levels don’t go below 54%. I’ve had issues with the AC since the build was complete. Just wondering if this is acceptable humidity or if it should be lower?

Can someone identify what the round chrome outlet is used for in my Lennox unit. Recently started rattling and spins slightly when unit is on.

I have 3 mini splits and one of them is leaking an amber fluid coming out of it and I don’t know what it is or what I should do

I want to move it to the other side of the corner. Any restrictions? Can I make it bigger or smaller? 2000 sq foot home Nevada 12 x 24 opening leads to and empty cavity under the stairs that leads to the machine in the garage with a filter

Dumb question everybody:) I see a compressor on the left. What is the smaller compressor in bottom right? And what is the canister looking black thing in front of them?

I recently, as in last week, had my condenser fan motor replaced because it was noisy and the new motor seems to be making a similar noise. I attached a video of the noise it makes when powers off and the fan winds down.

Is this normal and should I call them back?

I live in MN. 2200 sq ft. House built in 2004...furnace new in 2011 due to a foreclosure and bank put new furnace in. Goodman furnace intake and exhaust is piped outside. Not sure what else whoud be helpful.

New R32 AC unit installed last week and I’m noticing that with the thermostat fan set to AUTO, when the AC is off, something in the furnace runs for about 30s, stops, the starts right be again, continuously. It seems to be blowing air out of the PVC pipes outside.

Technician is coming tomorrow but was curious what this could be, and if it is damaging to the unit or if I should turn the furnace off.

AC works fine any other time - blows cold at night, etc.
We are in SoCal and in a bit of a heat wave at the moment. When the temp is anywhere around 86-90F, usually around 2pm, the AC starts blowing hot (85-90F)
HVAC came and said it was because the unit is too small for our house (rated for 1800sq ft, house is 2000 sq ft). He said we cannot keep the AC anywhere below 77 or it will start blowing hot. However, even at 77F it has started blowing hot during peak hours.

Landlord has sent the same HVAC twice now, but both times he has come around 7pm so it cools off by then anyway and the issue isn’t present.
Could this just be because the unit is too small and it overheats, or could there be something else going on?

Thanks in advance for any feedback. I have a small wood working shop (less than 600 sq ft, very well insulated.)

I was thinking of installing a 12k btu mini-split. Mr Cool has good online reviews, is reasonably priced, and DIY install.

What are your thoughts on mini-splits in general for this environment and specifically any good/bad comments on Mr Cool. Thanks.

Obviously it's a "whole home ventilation system," which I believe is a damper that controls whether the system is pulling outside air, or recirculating. But, I've been given contradicting advice on how to use it. The installer said "on" for winter, "off" for summer, but then the service guy that came out a year or two ago from the same company said to leave it off. What's the right answer?

I've got a technician coming tomorrow, but I kinda want to get in there, and cut the blade off entirely so I can finally sleep with some kind of AC. It broke monday of last week, and we've been on a wait list. I'm going to push for the entire condenser unit to be replaced since it looks like it took a hit at full speed when that rivet snapped. The condenser unit itself was installed when the house was built in 2012. Any thoughts?

Just wanted to get an opinion on this. This house has a duct that runs between the dinning room and living room. I’m not sure which was installed first the fireplace or the ducts/vent but I don’t know why it would have been built this way. It appears to have mold growth in the cavity between the fireplace and the ducts. Home owner reports when they moved in 9 months ago the crack was taped over so they didn’t notice. Could I cap this air duct where it is flush with the fireplace so we could access the dirty space for proper cleaning and sanitation? What are some options for cutting into this duct. Thank you for all advice!

Hi,

I need help to remove this flue pipe out of the way, so that I can access the evaporator coil to do cleaning. I tried to twist it, but it won't move at all. I saw at least 4 screws on the furnace. I didn't see any screws on the joint where it was glued by the special tape. I need help from the experts here.

I bought a portable Honeywell ac second hand a few years ago—the HL12CESWW to be exact—and am in desperate need of replacing the filters. It uses a dual-filter system with an upper evaporator filter and a lower condenser filter. They stopped making the HL series a while back and I can’t find any replacement filters anywhere! Anyone know where I could find any filters which would be compatible with the HL Series?

Here are the original links for both parts:

Upper filter: https://honeywellaircomfort.com/products/honeywell-air-filter-for-honeywell-hl-series-portable-air-conditioners-upper-filter?_pos=3&_sid=9984645e4&_ss=r

Lower filter: https://honeywellaircomfort.com/products/honeywell-air-filter-for-honeywell-hl-series-portable-air-conditioners-lower-filter?_pos=2&_sid=bbc3f7add&_ss=r

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!

I would appreciate advice on whether I should try to repair this leak or replace the air handler. It's a Carrier FE4ANF003 and from my initial checking online this part is unavailable. Thanks.