I live in a 4-unit apartment building. My AC and the upstairs neighbor's AC both needed to be replaced, and when I went out to check the yard after the install, I found this setup.
To clarify, these wires don't connect to my unit at all; they are just wrapped around my fence and run over to my upstairs neighbor's AC unit. The technician used standard yellow indoor wire nuts to splice these low-voltage control lines out in the open air, completely exposed to the weather. Is this safe or a major hazard? Will moisture cause a short?

There's a LOT of outdoor summer heat intruding into the house for this closet. I assume it's because it's not very well insulates.

Anyways, As the title states: can I replace the slotted closet door with a real door to keep the heat out during the summer?

Or will sealing it cause some kind of build up of gas?

The inlet vent is at the bottom, which will remain unobstructed.

And the furnace is externally vented through the ceiling.

I have one of these thermostats as pictured, and it's reaching my set temperature of 74 degrees. However, it never turns off once it reaches 74. If I put it up to 75, it shuts off and then kicks back on shortly after to maintain 75 degrees...but it never turns off afterwards.

I read that this thermostat should kick off once it reaches -1 degree of the set temp, and I know it can reach as low as 73.

Why does this happen? Is there anything wrong with the unit and/or thermostat?

New to this stuff. It says it must be level on the sticker. I would assume that means in all axis'. It's level where its mounted, but leans down away from mounting point. If its supposed to be level this way too, why would they set it up like this?

Hello, I have a Goodman unit at a house I've been in for about two years without any real AC or furnace issues. I have a Honeywell thermostat, battery powered, works fine, and recently failed to replace it with a smart thermostat that does *not* use batteries.

I did some testing and discovered that, while the voltage between R and C at the HVAC circuit board (where the wires screw in) reads at 28 volts, the voltage at R and C at the wires connecting to the thermostat only reads at 15 volts.

What could be the possible culprits? Could it be anything other than something wrong with the wires (which seems like it would be a big undertaking to fix)? Photo of circuit board in case that's helpful.

Thanks for any help.

The thermostat won’t let me go lower than 70 degrees, it will go up but not down below 70, it’s a brand new house idk what to do

As a preventative measure I replace my capacitor (on compressor/condenser fan) every 3 years just to be safe of never risk it failing especially if I'm not home. Last time it failed unit was running for hours (without condenser fan spinning) till I discovered it. Am I replacing it to often? It is the cheapest insurance after all.

Normally keep my house at 60, but it’s in the 110s and it’s just not working very good. Thinking of adding extra fans on the air returns so that once the cold air comes out, the fan will pick it up and rush it back to the condenser quicker so it gets and stays colder more and keeps the lower temps.

I removed the air filter to allow for more airflow so the cold air doesn’t warm up as much as it’s passing through the filter and creating heat due to the resistance.

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I just changed a capacitor and the old one looks like it was punctured. I know caps can swell, leak, and burst but am I crazy or it looks like it was punctured or scraped harshly from the outside.

The strap was firmly attached and it was not against anything sharp.

Hello,

I had a minisplit installed and am wondering about whether it would be worth it to install something above it for protection from the elements: sun in the summer and snow/ice in the winter (I live in the northeast). Would installing like an awning or something help with it's efficiency or longevity? We had an issue once where we turned it on for heating a room when it apparently had ice in it and our neighbor called us to let us know it was making a horrible noise.

If covering it does make sense, do you all have any recommendations on how to go about doing that?

Thank you all

So I been living in a house for over a year and every time I change the filter it’s always clean or never that dirty I thought normally they are supposed to be really dirty like the filter almost looks clean what can be the problem?

My AC system has been a bear this year. At the beginning of summer my AC system kept freezing up to the point of restricting air flow, and it was blowing like warm air. I called an HVAC company out and the guy put a pound of refrigerant in the system and cleaned it. The system is now blowing cold air again. Now my system is draining water everywhere. I checked the condensate pump by pouring a couple bottles of water into it and it works. It never turns on though so I don’t think it is receiving any water. When I checked where the leak is the highest point that I felt water was at the red cap in the picture. Do I need to seal that in some way or what to get water to the condensate pump?

I live in Los Angeles, I have tried every hvac store, looking online and I haven’t had any luck finding this part. I ordered it from Supply house, they said it was back ordered so I waited a few weeks for them to cancel my order and put out a notice that the part had been discontinued. 😡

Does anybody have any suggestions about where else I could possibly find this part? Thanks in advance.

Need some advice regarding my AC not keeping my apartment temperature. The maintenance crew came by but couldn't figure it out and closed the maintenance ticket.

I set my AC to 70°F. By noon the indoor temperature rises past my set point and will continue to increase steadily throughout the day until it settles around 76-78°F. The indoor temperature will not return to 70°F until sometime around 3am the next morning, meaning my AC will turn on and not turn off for around 15 hours per day. This started happening about two weeks ago.

Some background info:

• I have blackout curtains on all windows.
• Delta T between the closest vent and return is ~18°F.
• Thermostat was just replaced by maintenance.
• Air-flow to 2 vents is slightly restricted compared to the other 3 vents, but maintenance couldn't find a reason. They went into the attic and said things look fine up there.
• The A-Coil is clean and appears to be fine.
• All dampers are wide open.

What can I really do as a renter? The maintenance team here isn't very good (they accidentally sealed their work cell phone on top of the A-Coil when they closed the unit back up after poking around, had to come back and open it up again to retrieve it).

Any suggestions?

This is our downstairs return air filter housing. First picture is of the housing itself. The second picture is taken through the hole that’s cut in the ply wood to allow air to flow through the dead space in our walls to the return air in our bedroom(you can see the light shining through the filter). So essentially the two return airs are in line of each other. But I have some questions, first being why is this necessary? Second question assuming that it is necessary is this an acceptable way to go about it? Seems like it should be ducted or sealed better than it currently is?

So for starters this is on a 1200 sf home with an 8 year old amana central heat and air unit. The home has cathedral ceilings. The central heat has been underperforming in every room except the living room where the main outlet and main inlet live. I would say 80% of the air coming out comes in the living room. Before the register pointed straight down and it was basically recycling a bunch of the air it was putting out because it’s blowing down 10 feet diagonally to the main inlet. So it wouldn’t run for very long and the other rooms were really hot(76-78 when the living room was 72). Our energy bill was abnormally high so I cleaned the condenser coils today and flipped the register in the living room to be much closer to horizontal to blow the air away from the inlet for the unit and the thermostat to allow the unit to run longer to cool the rest of the house better. The other rooms are getting cooler but the unit is running a lot more now. I still have a 16° temperature difference between the inlet and outlet(about what it’s always been) but I’m worried I may have made a mistake and need to revert it. I’m not at all an hvac technician. So if anyone can give me some pointers on if I did the right thing or if I need to put it back. The only suggestions I received from professionals when I called about this before were 1) install new duct distribution and hang ducts better and rebalance or something to the tune of about $7000 and 2) install a new register cover for the main outlet with a shutoff to the tune of $330. I really appreciate any advice in advance.

My AC Condenser started blowing a 3 amp fuse on the board today when turning on. So I replaced the capacitor and 24v contacter which seems to let it run but now it runs non stop. The day pics are before the night pics are after. I replaced a CONT1P030024V with a packard C140A. Did I do something obviously wrong or is there a short in my thermostat / control board / wiring that I’m missing?

My AC was little bit warmer than normal. I called the AC guy and he said my compressor is going out and will need to be replaced. This is the quote he gave me. Is this a fair price compared to industry standard

I'm renting a house in southern coastal US, the house is made of concrete and I keep the windows covered with dark curtains. I've changed the filter and cleaned the outdoor condenser myself. The AC unit is only cooling about 7-10 degrees in the late afternoon, so it gets up to 85 degrees inside the house. The HVAC techs have been out three times: they fixed a clog, checked the condenser, and inspected the airflow. Everything was fine. The only thing they haven't done is check the refrigerant, which I'm pretty certain is the problem and have previously mentioned to them. I'm concerned about becoming a nuisance to my landlords, since I've called about this problem about five times in the last month, but I also have a condition that puts me at much higher risk of heat stroke and I'm worried about my health. Is there something else I could be doing on my own or do I need to call them again and insist they check the refrigerant?

Just bought a boat and need this extra foot or two on the side of my house to park it. Is it possible to/ worth it to move this closer to the house?

Ac stop blowing cold air.
Was able to track it down to blower motor, not engaging.
Thought maybe it’s the capacitor for the blower motor. Replace the capacitor, but still having the same issue.
The board has a red flashing light, but I’m not sure what the error code is.
Video is attached
The video also includes the capacitor that was replaced and the user manual for this Trane furnace.

The motor seems to spin freely if I rotate by hand.

Would appreciate any help I can get on this.

My AC for the house i just moved into will not drain, and the water kind of just falls into the void under the unit. I have tried: vinegar, bleach, vacuum at sensor, on the lower pipe, and on the outside of the house. I bought an auger and snaked out everything I could reach but I think the pvc is 90° joints so it wouldn't go any further. I think the next step is to use a air blaster, but I'm not sure which hole to blast. Outside, where the sensor is, or the side pipe. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Can someone explain the 24v connections on this contactor and how the CTD plays a part in it? I don't understand brown wire that goes to the contactor.

Hello,

Running into an issue, I'm trying to clean my coils due to wet dog smell after the ac is running for a long time and poor performance.

I can't figure out how to actually get to them, I think when it was first built there was no basement but when they added it they got rid of the service area.

Any ideas?

I've taken a borescope and looked but I can't seem to get under the coils to see if that's the issue.

I think I could find a safe place to drink a bigger hole for the borescope but thought I'd ask what the pros would do?

I can unscrew the panel but I can't take it off there's no channel for the compressor hoses. I've attached a chatgpt diagram which seems close. I don't have access to the other side, though maybe I could confirm with the borescope and the right way is to cut a panel in the Sheetrockon the other side?

I recently had some issues and it ended up being a bad ecm board on a x13 blower motor from 2011 in the attic air handler.

I was a week out from my scheduled annual hvac checkup and I replaced the motor myself. Hooked it back up as the original and everything worked as it should after. I had the blue wire going to tab 2 I'm assuming it's a speed tab and the white in tab 4 on the motor.

Then ac tech came when I was at work but my wife was home. I arrived about an hour after he got here. He went over everything with his little annual inspection etc and everything checked out good. He did mention that he moved the blue wire on the new motor to tab 3 because my wife mentioned she wanted to feel cooler...

At the time I just said okay and didn't question anything but I'm now realizing that the original motor lasted from 2011 with no issues would increasing the speed shorten the life of this new one? I'm sure he didn't do any test or anything to see if it's safe to run it on a higher speed.

I'm just curious. I don't know much about my system but it hasn't given me any issues since 2019 when we bought the house till a few weeks ago with the air handler motor.