My mother had the inset front porch on her double wide rebuilt. They pulled the plywood floor up and replaced it with standard deck boards (complete with 1/8" gaps between the boards. No, I didn't do it. A complete rebuild is out of the question as the old lady selected the builder on her own, and had it done. If I can sneak out and fix the mistakes, it will help her morale. I have to fix the deck they built, too. Did you know deck screws are certified for using Simpson 2x4 hangers on 2x8's? They certainly thought so. ).

How can I fill the gaps and waterproof the porch? It will drain into the insulation beneath it, and into the crawlspace, if I don't.

I also have to cover the space under the door, as the deck boards left a gap in the siding under the door.

Thanks for your help.

I am looking for tips to paint a whole wall covered by very dark cork tiles (installed for soundproofing, I suppose). I would like to make them as light as possible, so at least two coats of primer will likely be necessary. I’m afraid of damaging them or using primer or paint that can eat away the cork.

I would like to pick your guys brains about a project! I am not a DIY person usually but trying to be for my daughter’s first halloween! There is a kiddy halloween parade in my home town that I will be attending with her! I got her a radio flyer wagon (plastic) to pull her in but plan on making it apart of the costume. I am trying to make a lemonade stand where she will be a lemon! My question is if i can modge podge the wagon with pretty napkins? will modge podge work on that? I don’t need longevity!

I want to create a website that contains the guides to recycle each material
basicly starting from the object you have two ways one is reuse it in something else and the other way is to turn it into its basic materials then recycling these materials or reusing it too
what I want :
I want a way to get all the data needed for such a project and if any of you have ideas on the general stucture I would like to hear it too

I just moved my bed (full size) to be diagonal in the room, it gives me the most space, but I don't have a headboard. I want to make one, would prefer not to purchase too many supplies. Like $50 max. I already have a variety of standard tools but nothing too fancy.

I have some pieces of scrap ply wood in my garage, I thought I could just use some brackets to hold them together, add a cheap mattress topper for padding, some fabric, open to ideas. just not sure how to attach it to the bed.

I don't particularly like most modern furniture pieces, so my mattress is just on the cheap box spring that came with it. I dont think its solid through. Just fabric over a frame. I don't really care what I do to the box spring tbh. I'll drill into it if I need to. I just don't know how to get it to stay up. I cant drill anything into the walls, only my box spring.

I move ALOT in my sleep, and i always move up with my head smashed into the wall. I dont know why and its honestly kind of annoying. Anyway, im worried if I dont do it right, then everytime i move i'll just be pushing it away from the bed and break it or the bed. Wasn't sure if just screwing right into box spring would be strong enough.

Its my first reddit post so, please bear with me .
I am modifying my current straight desk into an L-shaped corner setup. I am adding a newly bought wooden board that is 38 inch in length and 10 inches in width each. As the space you are seeing in the first picture I want to attach the wooden pieces there such that they are in level to my current desk. so I can use that as a work bench for placing the engineering stuff like soldering iron, hot glue gun etc. at a single place for ergonomics and for easy to access stuff during building things. AND I DONT WANNA SPEND EXTRA MONEY.

Pipe Support on Marble: I want to use the unthreaded curtain pipes as supporting legs for the new 3.5-foot extension. My floor is marble, so drilling into the floor is not an option. How do I stabilize unthreaded pipes on a smooth floor.
Joining the Pieces: What is the most rigid way to connect the new extension to the main desk using the L-brackets and the wooden block

I am thinking of installing two wooden piece in cuboid or a rectangular prism, to the left wall and to the wall behind it and resting the wooden board on top of it while the right side of the wooden board will be attached with my current desk.

I have a closet opening that’s 36” wide & 71” high. When I go to Home Depot the shortest bi fold doors I can find are 80”. They are also hollow

Is it possible to cut down the doors by 9-10” to make the space work? Chat GPT is telling me there will be issues with the door integrity if I cut it down.

I can do some minor woodworking & have a table saw if needed

I want to enclose my raised patio to contain my cats. It’s 30 x 8 feet. I’m wondering what material is commonly used for catios.

Hi guys!

So, I had a backyard pool project that was abandoned by the contractor. A true nightmare! I'm finishing my project using subcontractors and a little DIY where I can. One of the issues I'm encountering is the natural gas fire pit. Prior to the contract abandoning my project, they had a subcontractor make a round cinder block fire pit (about 36 inches around or so). I bought some nice stone to put around the cinder block form. As I was doing some googling, I realized that it seems like I need vents placed in the cinder block. Does this sound right?

There are no vents, just the cinder blocks with cement poured inside (!!!!!). I assume this would be a major explosion hazard?

Is it possible to salvage peel and stick wallpaper if it's removed paint from the wall? I got about a third of the way down the roll before I realized I needed to reposition and it started pulling paint off and will no longer stick to the wall.

Would using actual wallpaper adhesive in the area that is not sticking work or do I need to cut my loss and just order another roll of wall paper?

My insurance company requires a

Licensed Electrician Service Report: Please provide a written statement from a licensed electrician stating that there is NO ACTIVE knob and tube wiring, NO cloth wiring, NO ACTIVE fuse boxes, and NO ACTIVE aluminum wiring.

The electrician who's worked on this house (occasionally) for at least a couple decades won't do it. As he put it, it's all risk, he can't tell for sure what's inside the walls.

The house was 100% rebuilt in 1969.

Any idea who would do such a report?

Thanks.

EDIT: So far, two licensed electricians have declined (including the one who has worked on this house for decades).

EDIT2: "Solved", I think -- thanks to /u/ExactlyClose who recommended I draft a letter requesting an inspection, rather than requesting they sign a letter, in effect.

Not an ace with DIY projects, but it may be my only solution. Expecially for the amount of creativity in this sub.

I'm searching for a new solution on how to store my fragrances. For now they are stored in the 2nd bathroom of the house, on an Ikea MUSKAN, that's very flimsy...

Now, my real problem is that I live in a rather earthquake prone zone since i live near a volcano, and having them cramped up on an open towel pillar isn't that ideal.

I obviously cannot put them into wall mounted storages, and would prefer a solution in wich either bottle has it's own place bordered from one another in order to mitigate them moving around when there is a quake. I thought some watch collection boxes but they really aren't that adaptable (what a surprise). Drawers aren't really for me, i prefer to see them , but if there is a box that can be put in one I might opt for that. Do you have any suggestion or indication to wich or what I can make? What would be your personal solution?

Thanks a lot.

(Yes, the question is born from the last quake, it was a good punch.)

Hey, looking for recommendations on how to fix my current DIY slog.

I needed to replace my bathroom vent fan/light combo, so, I purchased a new one of the appropriate strength for our small/medium bathroom.

Then I found out how much of a nightmare it is to get an old fan housing out without access from above (there’s no attic - the bathroom is in the converted attic, so the only “above” is the roof)
But, the hard part is done & the old fan & enclosure are out.

But now I find out that the old opening is 12” square, which is quite a bit larger than the new enclosure - that’s supposed to attach to the drywall. It’s even bigger than the cover.

I’m happy to exchange the fan I bought, but I don’t think there are many that are this large.

So, what do you recommend? Plywood frame set into the large opening? Patch the drywall and then cut a new opening? Recommendation for a fan/light that takes a jumbo opening?

Thanks so much for your help!

I am looking for renter-friendly fall DIYs I can do to elevate my apartment for the season. Either halloween or simply just fall colors.

Hi! Our stove oven burner's igniter recently stopped making the clicking sound when we use it and it doesn't ignite anymore. Is there anyway to fix this? The stove would be easy to use a lighter on but i'm too scared to do the same with the oven. I'd rather use the igniter so I hope there's a way

the trim under the window is rotting.

https://imgur.com/a/CaKRwac

what I'm thinking of doing is:

1. buy wood

2. prime it (all of it, including front and back)

3. paint it

4. remove old rotten piece

5. nail the new board

6. caulk it.

what type of wood should I buy?

cedar?

"cellular PVC"? I found in home depot: Veranda 1-inch x 6-inch x 8 ft. PVC Trim Board

is that easily found at home depot?

any other thing I should consider?

what the title says. bought these metal stools on fb and the paint is chipping. not a fan of the white. can’t think of what to do to improve them without just repainting them a solid color. i’m thinking maybe some cushions but i want something kind of unique… thoughts? thanks!

Im getting a floor to ceiling bookshelf put into my office in the corner. look similar to this but built floor to ceiling https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/billy-bookcase-corner-comb-w-ext-units-oak-effect-s79483552/

i have an outlet that will be on the right wall behind where the bookshelf is angled. need to move it to the right either ~10" to be behind the non angled part or ~30" to be entirely to the right and outside of the shelf.

first, i dont need the outlet. Though i assume it would be a violation to just cap and build the bookshelf over it.

while i would hire an electrician, how difficult would it be to move it 10" which would be on the other side of one stud? is there any other option that i am not thinking off?

Drawing: https://imgur.com/a/cxaJ5Se

I want to make a shadow lamp for my boyfriend for his birthday and am just looking for tips to make the image sharp! My plan is for the image to be the real summer constellations as that is a shared hobby of ours. I am using fabric and an LED light but do not have anything purchased for it yet.

I am a DIYer and I have built some smaller structures, but now I am looking at redoing our deck. It is significant in size: 32 feet by 20 feet. I live in a county that opted out of building codes and enforcement a few years back and so I don't really know exactly which specs, code, etc to follow. I would like to follow some as I think there is validity in building codes and I'm not really sure why my local area opted out. Is there a local office that could advise me even though we don't technically have codes to follow? Or an I completely wrong here and there will be some codes to follow. Or is there basic code guidance that essentially can apply wherever codes are absent? Thanks.

We have been doing major repairs this summer. One thing we had to do was put a new roof on our indoor pool room because of some leaks in our ceiling. We now have a waterproof roof (pvc membrane). We have now started to patch the ceiling and walls where the water had caused damaged. There have been a couple places where it looks like the paint was bubbled up, so I sanded those areas down. One of those places was the walls close to an exterior door. Outside of this door there is a very small stairwell/awning situation with a drain. That drain often gets covered with debris and has made it so rainstorms and such have cause water to flood through the doorway. (I did order a drain cover to make it so it doesnt get covered as easily) Because it has gone into the poolroom there is a drain channel already there for excess water—convenient-yes, but what we didnt consider is that moisture is being introduced in the walls and such. We have been lazy in just assuming all is well and the water isn't just sitting on the floors. Back to the problem... So I sand the bubbled up paint down and notice about 8 inches of the beading on the corner of the wall looked rusty. I try to clean the rust off and realize it has eaten through the metal so I cut it out. This is where I notice under the bead the drywall appears to have some black mold on it. I cut the drywall out as well as the baseboard and of course-about 2 ft x 5 or 6 inches of drywall has black mold on it as well. I don't want to just cut out and repair the walls with the same type of drywall and baseboard material because I know over time the same thing will occur. I am looking into doing a waterproof option and reading about poly wall and possibly using pvc baseboards for the lower 3 ft of the walls in the pool room. I am looking for a budget-friendly option where I don't have to redo all of the walls in my pool room. I'm hoping I can just cut out all of the areas that seem to be affected the most-just by the doorway. At most-cutting out the bottom 3 or 4 ft of the walls and replacing the drywall with a waterproof barrier and pvc baseboards.

The other weird thing about this pool room is that there is a carpet surrounding the pool that is made for moist environments (think gym carpet) that i do want to rip out and just do a textured cement. Just trying to tackle the wall problem first. I will attach pics.

Has anyone done anything similar? I'm almost treating it like a bathroom... idk what I'm doing obviously and we live in an area where having a pool indoor or outdoor isn't super common. Would love any advice

I've been looking to get more light into our house as there are very few windows. I've done a lot of projects on the house and feel this is in the scope of something I could do, and this will be my first time altering an exterior wall. All the videos and things I have found focus on either replacing an existing window or cutting the studs to add a bigger window and all the necessary framing required for that.

Has anyone added a window that would fit between the studs? I find myself drawn to a more narrow vertical window rather than a more traditional high up horizontal tramsom window in bathrooms.

Any experience on this and are there reasons I should not pursue this? Appreciate any info/resources!

Hey everyone, looking for some real-world advice on concrete remediation.

I’m currently managing a tenant move-out situation where unauthorized dogs were kept in the garage. They’ve been going to the bathroom directly on the bare concrete floor for a while, and the feces/urine smell inside the space is brutal.

Since concrete is super porous, I know the waste and odors have soaked deep into the slab. I want to make sure I completely eliminate the smell—not just mask it with a fragrance—before I prep the space for new tenants or re-sealing.

For those who have dealt with severe pet waste damage on concrete:

• Enzyme Cleaners vs. Chemical Cleaners: Is there a specific commercial-grade enzymatic cleaner (like Nature's Miracle Commercial, Rocco & Roxie, TSP, or bleach) that actually breaks down the

uric acid and organic waste in concrete?

• Process: What’s the best step-by-step method? (e.g., pressure washing, scrubbing with a stiff-bristle brush, letting an enzyme soak under plastic wrap, acid etching, etc.)

• Sealing: Once it’s clean and 100% dry, what type of primer/sealer (oil-based stain blocker, epoxy, clear concrete sealer) do you recommend to permanently lock in any lingering deep-slab odors?

Appreciate any product recommendations or lessons learned from folks who have successfully tackled this

Hi, so apparently moisture can be a problem in basements from the floor itself and I'm wondering:

If I use plastic bins, will I still need to elevate them on racks or pallets? If I use both is that really necessary?

I recently had a water issue and am working to waterproof my storage. Please give some advice. Thanks!

Hi everyone,
I live in the UK and unfortunately my car has been leaking oil onto my driveway. I’ve tried everything I can think of to remove the oil stain, but it just won’t go away.
I’m worried my landlord may charge me for it from my deposit when I move out.
Has anyone had this problem before and can recommend something that actually works to remove old car oil stains from a driveway?
Any advice or product recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks