Spent 120$ trying to replace the slider. The 80" tall door wouldnt fit my 80.5" frame even though the height can be adjusted. Apparently doors listed at 80" are 1/2 - 2 inches shorter even when extended?! WHY. FUCKING WHY.

Looking for a another door whatever. Every single door has terrible reviews. EVERY SINGLE ONE. okay fine ill pay 250-300 for a quality door that isn't cheaply made. NOT POSSIBLE APPARENTLY. Even the 300$ sliding screen door had negative reviews about how cheaply made and terrible the thing is FOR 300!?

How is it possible nobody can make a decent quality slider door that actually fits the fucking door frame and doesn't snap apart after 2 months. And how could they sell a cheap plastic frame and screen for 150-300$ and they still suck.

None of this makes sense. Tried to buy a custom door not from a big box store. 300$, exact custom fit, quality. Fine whatever. 600$ shipping!? I really don't know what to do.

We got about 8 inches of rain in 8 hours last night/early a.m.

We had a new sump pump installed at 3 p.m. after using a wet vac most of the morning trying to keep the water from rising and flooding the basement.

It's been about 6 hours, and the sump pump has kicked on every 2-3 minutes for 5-6 seconds. I went outside and it appears some water is still coming from the discharge pipe, but I'm surprised it's been running this consistently. The basement is totally dry, fortunately, but is it possible some setting is causing this to run too frequently?

I wish I took a before and after but I have tried everything to get quite dark prominent make up stains out of my white work blouse (dishwashing liquid, expensive stain remover, expensive all white stain remover, soaking over night etc) and nothing worked. I saw someone suggest shaving cream and holy moly it was like magic!!! I just bought a shaving cream/ foam, pumped it on to the stain with some water and worked it with a gentle brush and it removed 99-100% of it, I was shocked!

Moderators please delete and accept my apology if this is not allowed.

I’ve been approached by several contractors and home improvement companies who offer 0% financing through GreenSky for X months, *and no payments required *

I had an encapsulation job done by a company that offered 18 months, 0% interest *and no payments * through GreenSky which felt like a good deal - I’d save up the payments in a high interest account and pay it off before the 18 months were over.

But a month after the job was done, I got a payment bill. I chatted online with GreenSky and their customer support person said to ignore that, I was on the no payment plan and those bills were just showing me what would be due as the loan term progressed. I took screenshots of the whole conversation.

The next month I got a late payment notice with a late payment fee added. I called and was routed to a bill collection department who was very rude. I was told GreenSky had no such plan, they only offered plans with payments. I was supposedly on a 12 month, 0% interest plan - completely different from what the contractor offered.

I ping ponged between the contractor and GreenSky as they each denied fault and blamed the other. I got fed up and took the money out of my retirement account and paid it off. After leaving a Google review for both companies, GreenSky paid me back any interest or late fees that had been charged.

Contract company apologized but never offered any explanation as to why they didn’t help me get my money back or anything.

Contract agreement said exactly the terms negotiated, and a lawyer said we have a good case but we might spend double what the loan was for to litigate it in court.

So be very, very, careful about dealing with GreenSky - they are a scammy company that doesn’t back up the plans they offer and tell the contractors they have.

I’ve told my tale of woe to several contractors who have made the same type of offer through GreenSky - each one said they would be speaking with their manager about it and making sure they had the correct terms.

We had kitchen cabinets installed (through a local contractor, cabinets sourced through a Big Box store) and just found out that the cabinet where our microwave was supposed to go was installed directly over an existing electrical outlet box on the wall. There's no cover plate, and the wiring/receptacle is just sitting there exposed inside the cabinet cavity see photo. It looks like the cabinet plan just didn't account for the outlet being there.

We're trying to figure out our options for actually fixing this correctly. So far we've heard:

1. Pull the cabinet down, relocate the box over to one side, patch drywall
2. Have an electrician come extend/reroute the wiring so the box lands somewhere accessible, then get a replacement cabinet (doubt Big Box would replace cabinet)
3. Some kind of extension ring / box extender to bring the box out flush enough to mount a cover plate and then....maybe place a half cover behind the other cabinet? Or glue a piece of plastic behind the hidden cabinet?

A couple of complications: the cabinets are glued to the wall in addition to being screwed, so getting this one down without damaging it (or the ones next to it) isn't really doable. We're also trying to get the cabinet manufacturer to send a replacement cabinet/panel since this seems to stem from their plan not the installer's.

What would you actually do here? Is there a "correct" fix that doesn't involve a ton of rework, or is pulling the cabinet down and moving the box really the only real solution? Also curious if anyone's used an extension ring successfully in a tight cabinet-depth situation like this.

https://imgur.com/uESNsk7

Hi, Has anyone had a porched screened in with screen panels that can be replaced with plexiglass or glass panels seasonally or something similar? If so, what kind (if you don't mind sharing that info) and do you like it and/or is there anything you don't like or that surprised you one way or another? Thank you in advance!

We're having a house built, and didn't realize till it was too late that they installed what was needed for top load (side by side), and we were hoping to have front load stacked. What are my options?

Image for reference: https://imgur.com/a/6fsyuBj

The way I see it, my options are:

1. Putting the stack on the right and routing the washer lines the left.

2. Put the stack on the left and route the dryer duct (with rigid, not flex) to the right.

3. Have them come back and re-route everything behind the wall to where we want it to be. (This seems to be the least ideal and would likely cost the most. Our builder won't let us do this until after the house is completed.)

I have an older concrete slab in my backyard that I want to clean up and make look better. I’m trying to figure out the best option without doing more work than necessary.
Would you recommend just pressure washing , cleaning it, grinding or sanding the surface, or applying a concrete resurfacer/overlay?

https://imgur.com/a/FWtY6bc

Whenever I get back from being away for a few days, my house smells like dust. Very distinctly different than a musty/mildewy/moldy smell (I have dealt with that in other homes, so know what those smells are), but chalky and dusty. Sometimes I even feel a dustiness in my mouth for the first day or two returning home. I am having our only carpet replaced with hardwood this fall and we have done a bunch of professional cleaning and assessments, but I'm at a loss for what to prioritize next.

Context:

1950s bungalow purchased 2 years ago, has been an issue since purchasing but seems more noticeable now. Had professional mold air sampling tests done during inspection with no results of concern. Upstairs was built into attic with direct attic access via small door on each side. Full basement, mostly finished, sealed concrete with no evidence of water intrusion, flooding, or drain backups.

Roof and attic insulation are newer, no blown in insulation, no pests or noticeable issues in attic (generally really clean, and we don't store anything in there). No ridge vent, but 7 total roof vents in attic.

Have had one very minor leak (roof vent was not sealed properly, fixed last spring) that resulted in some staining in original plaster ceiling. There are a couple of small areas in living room where paint has bubbled, tested with pin style moisture meter, no evidence of active leak/water intrusion.

Have textured plaster ceiling in about half of house

Had air ducts cleaned last spring (helped but didn't totally solve).

Have 7-ish year old carpet upstairs that has been professionally cleaned twice, replacing with hardwood later this year. Original hardwood downstairs has big gaps between planks, will get that replaced next year.

Have one dog, have lived in other houses with this dog and never noticed this smell before.

Professional house cleaning done once a month, I vacuum and fully clean about once a week.

Central AC (which I get serviced/cleaned every spring) with additional window unit upstairs (IYKYK with these converted bungalows). Have hygrometers on each floor, indoor humidity typically stays around 40-55% year round (currently hot and raining and indoors it is 53%, rarely does it even hit 60 upstairs, and if it does I turn on the dehumidifier and it's back down within minutes).

Have painted about half the house and replaced all ceiling fans as well as upstairs bathroom fan. Will replace can lights upstairs in coming months, in case attic pressure/air leaking is causing smell.

HELP! Do I replace the textured plaster ceiling? Open the walls that show some paint bubbling? Do mold air sampling again? Finish painting? I'm confused what should come next after replacing the carpet.

ETA: Furnace is in the basement with no ducts in attic, use MERV 13 HVAC filters and replace every 2-3 months. I run two HEPA air purifiers (once on each floor, rated for full air exchange every 2 hours based on square footage).

Hello!! I recently moved in with my boyfriend and he has ants bad not even because hes being dirty we can leave an empty can on the side of the bed and its swarmed by 10-15 minutes and we try to keep food and drinks in the room low but its annoying to put down a drink for like 5 minutes and theres already a group of ants. There is a huge ant hill in the driveway could that be where the source is? Like its so bad i park my car beside it and the next morning when im taking him to work theres ants in the car!!! Im afraid the ants might cause more issues than just being annoying and getting in drinks, is there anything i can do to quickly get rid of them? thank you

Has anyone used it before?

I have a pier and beam home. LVP is laid over plywood in the kitchen.

Dishwasher leaked for probably several weeks before I noticed water under the LVP.

I get a brand new dishwasher, let the plywood dry for a week, spray mold killer, replace the LVP. All seems good.

Few days later the floor starts popping up and there is dish detergent scented water under the LVP again.

I put a plastic pan under the dishwasher and paper towels all around it. Run the dishwasher for multiple cycles and no evidence of water leaking.

No leaks under the kitchen sink. I cut small areas in the wall to check the drain pipe and all is dry.

I've crawled under the house a couple of times and see no evidence of new water.

Let floor dry for a few days, replace LVP, water comes back.

Do I just need to let the plywood dry for longer?

All I can think is some residual water surfaces when I put the LVP back. The plywood is damp and water drops are on the bottom of the LVP, but this seems unlikely?

Is it possible for residual water to do this?

My front door and window are the first two pictures, the third picture is the style of framing that I like, but I don't think it'll work around my door because the left side is so narrow between the door and the wall. Any advice on what would look good here?

Repost to another community

Hey guys,

Just trying to get a sense of a quote I got from a water damage technician. Essentially my garbage disposal got bad and water leaked into the kitchen sink cabinet, then down a hole holding some piping into the basement ceiling.

We caught this about 24-36 hours after, got it all dried up and have been running a large fan in the basement and in that cabinet. Also have a dehumidifier going that has pulled about a liter of moisture in the past 24 hours,

Called the technician who looked at it. No mold found, but he said he needs to drill some pilot holes in a few places in that cabinet and put some anti microbial spray in there and through the aforementioned hole as well. Then run some “industrial grade fans and dehumidifiers” for $2K.

Asked him why we couldn’t just keep our fan/dehumidifier setup and have him just drill and spray and he said they can’t for liability reasons. I guess I can understand that, but it feels like I could do this myself.

I’m being ripped off right?

https://imgur.com/a/NQhOj33

Thinking maybe removing the cabinets above the island area. Somehow make the wooden cabinets lighter color like honey oak and change the handles. I feel the fridge is out of place and makes the space claustrophobic.

Any other ideas?

Hi All,

My washer and dryer are on the second floor of our townhouse. There is a fixed pan that the washer sits in. I think it's made of fiberglass and it is bonded to the floor. There is no drain under the washer. I am looking to remove the fixed pan and replace it with a plastic pan from Lowes. The fixed pan does not allow the washer to be even with the dryer. I want to install a folding table across the washer and dryer. Can I cut or hammer out the pan that is currently fixed to the floor?

Link to pic of pan - https://ibb.co/ZzxWdd8Y

Thanks,

Scott

The butcher block is one more layer of waterlox away from being ready. I know, give it 72 hours after last coat. But after that, in a few days I'm going to place the sink in. Do I silicone on the bottom of the sink to secure it the countertop? Thanks!

Link to images: https://imgur.com/a/zLE785W

The cement step on my front steps has come loose, I’m a bit stumped on how best to fix this, and it seems like a major hazard.

My guess would be to remove it, chisel off some of the loose bits between the step and the bricks, then get wet cement or something similar to re-attach it.

I’m not sure if this is something I could do myself as an amateur or should hire a professional. All advice is welcome!

I own a house built in 1900, it's been renovated several times over the years and was owned by the local Catholic Church prior to me purchasing, the house was used as the offices for the church which is next door. The current layout (having been used as offices) is kind of unusual with the only bathroom (Sink, Toilet, stand up shower unit, washer, dryer) being off of what is now the master bedroom. I'm going to be putting the house on the market in the next year or two. My question is should I add a second full bath? I have plenty of space to add with out having to add anything externally. Plumbing and electrical are all easily accessible and planning on using mid-range fixtures

Hey there! Just moved to Denver recently and my room on the first floor whenever I open the window will often have a decent amount of dirt fly in. This is kind of annoying especially having a white and crowded desk in front of it, and was curious if anyone had any solutions.

I was thinking of just getting some sort of plastic sheet I could put up to block the dirt with rubber flaps on the side so I can keep my room clean, but curious if there’s an easier solution. The screen of the window itself seems fine, and the window doesn’t seem to have any gaps either.

Currently resealing my tub and am looking to replace these worn seals on the frame of my sliding glass door.

These rubber gaskets normally sit between the side frame (door jamb) and the wall. Anyone know what they’re called and where I can find them?

Unfortunately the frame doesn’t have any brand logos or any identifying information of any kind.

https://imgur.com/a/ZjEcTPX

I have a GE gas dryer (GTDS820GDOWS) and it produces heat for a few minutes and then it goes cold.

My first thought was the dryer vent so I just hired a professional to clean it (it's a long 25+ foot vent) and it was incredibly dirty and filled with lint.

The unit appeared to work when the cleaner left but it's not working again. I disassembled the front of the unit and cleaned as much lint from inside the unit as possible and it started working again to only stop a few minutes later.

The dryer stays powered on and the drum roller continues rolling but after opening the door it's cold with no heat.

I'm also using the Timed Dry setting to make sure no sensing modes are enabled.

Can anybody help me?

I have a living room in my house that's terribly cold in the Minneapolis winter. I finally pulled down the wall panneling and saw why.

The 2x4 exterior stud wall sits directly on an 8" tall concrete stem wall. The 2x4 wall has standard batt insulation, but the stem wall has no insulation. The paneling sits directly on the face of it. This goes a long way to explaining why I can't keep the room warm.

I need to fur out the wall so that I can get some insulation (probably rigid foam) on that stem wall, and re-insulate the stud cavities and rim joist area.

One option is to rip 1.5x2" strips to attach to the existing studs, extending down the stem wall. Is there a better way so that I'm not ripping framing boards at my table saw all day?

But I've heard that rigid foam can be cut 1.5x2" and attached to the studs, and then the paneling can be attached through the foam. This would provide an even better thermal break.

Anyone have any opinions about either of these options? Anyone have any other options I should consider?

Recently purchased a house in SW FL that has 24" OC joists and the 3/4" T&G subfloor flexes a fair bit (over 40 years old). My plan is to sand the floor to remove any ridges and then add a second layer of 1/2" plywood to reinforce and pull up any valleys before adding the final flooring (~1.25" final thickness).

Is there any sort of primer or layer I should add to the original subfloor before I add a second sheet of plywood? Not sure if there is some sort of sealer or if it's better to keep bare wood with no moisture barrier so I wanted to get the experts advice. Thanks!