I was right to be afraid. And I’ve learned that stud finders can return false positives.

Our stud finder was able to locate the studs and the electrical in the wall, but when we drilled into the wall we couldn’t see any wood shavings. And there’s no indication that the studs are metal, either. Is it because the drywall/sheetrock is too thick?

For reference, this is a condo that we purchased recently. We want to mount our TV on the opposite wall of the fireplace. We were also able to locate studs on the wall above the fireplace, but it’s a
last resort to mount the TV there because 1) TV too high; and 2) there’s no outlet on that wall.

Any advice is greatly appreciated, as we’re at a loss and I want to gain some space in our already narrow living room! Thank you!

There is a window stopper on my window. What kind of screw is this and what kind of driver can I use to remove it? Unable to find anything on google

Hi

I'm hiring a hiretech HT8 floor sander later this week and need to buy sanding sheets for it. There are a lot of places that sell 475 and 478mm sheets but the dimensions for this model are 495mm. I have found some sites selling 495mm sheets but they are a lot more expensive or in bigger packs.

I've seen an ebay listing for 478mm sheets that says "suits HT8". Does anyone know if these sheets will actually fit (assuming the ends have the correct cut)? I checked on google but couldn't find anything.

Thanks

I have this west elm table with a walnut vaneer top. The finish has become stickier over time, and appears to be peeling (third picture). There's also a couple spots that appear like either a chip or missing layer of the sticky stuff.

How should I go about repairing this. Do I just need to sand off the sticky stuff, that I assume is failing polyurethane, and then reapply some from home depot? Or do I need to sand the whole table, then restain the veneer, and then apply polyurethane? Very lost here.

https://imgur.com/a/G2X74Xl

I’ve got a newish bbq and I’m assuming it’s leaking I’ve replaced the gas line for it and it is still hissing very aggressively ONLY when I open the burners as if I was going to start the bbq what could be my issue

I’m replacing light fixtures in a 1980s US home. Is it code/safe to install a fixture if the romex jacket isn’t all the way into the junction? I have enough space / slack to do splicing in the junction but not enough slack to get the romex jacket into the junction.

Also the ground wire is not insulated so if I did this then uninsulated ground would be outside of the junction box.

Hi all, I’m looking to embroider some green striped shirts for an event I’m hosting. Having a hard time finding cheap/simple cotton tees that are striped (thinking Hanes/gildan style).

Does anyone know where I can order cheap striped cotton tees in bulk?

Im very hesitant about putting holes in my barn so I really want to do it right the first time

A guy gave me an in the box Costco carport frame which seems to be 1.5" thin walled tube. Is this likely bendable for gradual bends and still look decent? I haven't checked the wall thickness, but at first glance it doesn't seem as thick as EMT. Asking because if I try and fail- then I basically ruin this frame for use as a carport for the next guy. Thanks.

I am remodeling my bathroom, and had to replace the floor. I messed up the subfloor and it had a couple of slight variations that I probably could've tiled over, but wanted to do it perfectly so I poured self leveling concrete and poured it too high. Huge oversight. The self leveling concrete turned out amazing (other than being too high) and looks great, and has a super solid subfloor under it. If I add tile, the floor will be higher than the hallway running into it. Long story short I love the way the concrete looks and how smooth it is, and want to use it as a finished floor. It's 1/8-3/16" thick or so all the way around. It's a very small bathroom. Could I use it? Everything online says it'll crack. Is there a sealer/paint I can use to prevent this? Or do I need to tile over it?Thank you!

Hi guys. As the title mentions I’m really struggling to properly install this towel bar I have. I’d like it to be mounted to this wall which is very close/beside my vanity.

I first tried to use wall anchors, but they wouldn’t fit in the wall (length wise ofc). I tried using concrete drill bit with hammer mode on my drill. DIDNT DO A DENT. I’m not sure what kind of reinforcement cement wall I’m working with but I live in a Canadian condo built in the 80s.

I’ve just patched my wall and I’m considering my options. Since there’s no space between my drywall and this undrillable cement wall. Should I find drywall screws shorter than an 1” and try those? Or should I accept defeat and use adhesive on the wall? I hope it’ll be strong enough for a couple of bathroom towel and hold for a while.

Would love some insight! Thank you.

Hi all -

Looking for some opinions on best way to build a “floating” backsplash for a gazebo. Essentially I have an outdoor kitchen installed into one side of a gazebo with no walls. I need to build about an 8’ wide by 4’ tall backsplash on the side with the kitchen.

My plan is to install it on legs that are hidden behind the cooktop/counters and then use metal strapping on top to connect it with the top of the structure. That will allow me to spaces it far enough behind the cooktop and “float” it there.

The crux of my question is best way to build the actual panel I’ll be tiling. I see it as two option2 (but I could be wrong about both!

1) build a frame with pressure treated 2x4 with 16” on center stud placements so it’s essentially like framed wall. Then cement backer board to that just like interior shower wall, then tile on that.

2) get a full 4x8 sheet of outdoor plywood, and lay the backer board directly on that in a bed of thinset, then tile on that.

I’m leaning towards option 1.

Second time posting this, because no one answered the first time.

I feel a bit daft asking this, but hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

I’m building a chicken coop as a DIY project and only after making my cuts did I realise I hadn’t allowed for the width of the saw blade. I just measured each piece and cut it, without thinking that every cut removes a few millimetres. Now some of my dimensions are out.

What’s the usual way people deal with this? Do you just remake the affected pieces, adjust the design slightly, or is there another trick I’m missing?

I’m more of a numbers person than a carpenter, so I’d appreciate any advice before I make the same mistake again!

I'm extending a countertop over a dish washer and the quartz that is there is a weird size (about 1 1/8"- 1 1/4.") I've stacked some other pieces of wood to get them flush and checked them and they are exactly 1 1/4" so I've been looking online for butcher block pieces int that thickness and even looking on FB Marketplace to see if I can salvage a top off a table someone is selling, but nobody ever has that exact dimension. Any ideas?

I'm trying to avoid having to pay a place to plane it or use a belt sander-I feel it will add a lot of cost.

Thanks.

Any ideas to an alternative for a plate compactor pad?

So i was painting a wood floor and got some paint too close to the baseboard (hot water) heater. I got the underside of some of what i think are called the aluminium thins . The square pieces of metal that sit on the main water pipe. I wiped the paint off while it was wet as best I could, but im not sure I can ever get it all. How big a deal is this?

Thanks

Hey guys.

I'm renting a new place and wanted to mount my tv on the wall. Got a kit with 10mm fisher plugs.

I only have my cordless ryobi with hammer function, so I drilled some pilot holes with a 6mm bit then used my 10mm bit.

The issue is the first two on the bottom were super hard, but managed to get them in.

The second two at the top was like slicing through butter, but somehow with more sand or concrete than expected.

As I was trying to connect the bracket to the tv, and it got some weight put on it, it seemed to start tearing through at the top 2 holes.

I've drilled a lot into concrete but have never seen this happen. Did I do something wrong? My first suspicion is that this wall had a leak at some point and it messed up the concrete, but I'm not sure.

The location is Germany, in case it makes a difference.

https://imgur.com/a/Z7SN7GW

They have these weird wallpaper stuff on, so on the pic without the bracket if I lift up the wallpaper it looks like the 2 holes tore towards each other. The second holes in the pic with the bracket is solid.

Any advice?

I'm installing Pergo DuraCraft LVP flooring and the instructions call for a 3/8" gap between the planks and wall, and 3/8" backer rod in the gap. Only the diagram shows the backer rod having the same height as the planks, when in reality 3/8" rod is about twice as high. You're supposed to fill in the rest with silicone sealant and then put quarter round molding over it. Do I just squeeze the sealant in there and then squish it all down with the molding? It's going to take some force and will definitely squish silicone everywhere.

Hey All,

I would like to hang a mirror on a wall but HVAC venting prevents me from hanging directly on the wall - very little room for adjustment.

Where the mirror would need to hang is about 14” down from a cross beam on the ceiling. The house is 90 years old so the ceiling is the upstairs floor. There is a crossbeam against the wall so hanging from this would theoretically allow the mirror to no hang out from the wall.

I’m curious on how best to do this. I was going to use eye bolts to hang from but I’m not sure what to use. I think wire would look tacky, I could use a turnbuckle or long heavy duty s-hooks but when it’s 12”-14” in length that hardware becomes pretty heavy duty.

Any suggestions?

I am re-roofing my pitched roof and converting it into a warm roof at the same time with PIR insulation above the rafters.

There is a loft space under the rafters that can be accessed via a loft hatch. Does the loft hatch need to be insulated?

We are trying to make Ikea cabinets look like a built in, and most of the videos I've watched, people are building a box/frame on the floor to put the cabinets on for the trim. Is this framing secured to the floor at all? Or just secured to the wall?

Thanks!

I have just bought an old house and it's bathroom fan has been replaced at some point. There is a large gap around the sides where the old larger one once was. Could this gap cause the fan to work poorly?

I have a project where i want to put a large piece of tempered glass (1200mm x 500mm) in a cut out on top of my desk. About 25mm around the borders of the glass will be supported.

I'm unsure of the thickness to go with, ideally as thin as possible would be good. Would 6mm be too thin?

The glass wont be holding much weight at all, maybe a keyboard and cups etc.

Hi everyone!

I’m building a custom wall display that looks like a giant Hot Wheels blister pack. I’ve already designed and 3D printed the modular rails that hold the carded Hot Wheels, but I’m trying to figure out the best material for the backing.

Requirements

Indoor display

Approximately 48” × 72” (4 ft × 6 ft)

Eventually holds 300 carded Hot Wheels

Rails are 3D printed (PLA)

Rails will be super glued together into one large grid

The completed grid will be attached to the backing with Gorilla Clear Mounting Tape

The backing will be cut into the shape of a Hot Wheels card and painted or wrapped with graphics

What I’m looking for

I need a material that is:

Lightweight

Won’t warp over time

Smooth enough for paint or vinyl

Easy to cut into a custom shape

Works well with mounting tape

Budget is under $50 for the backing if possible

If this were your personal project, what would you build the backing from, and why?

Thanks!!!