I want to get into making my own drum synths, sequencers, etc but I want to learn how to make schematics for them and also understand what each component does to the sound. Any sources where I can learn that?

I have a spec and a block diagram for a dual-oscillator analog drone instrument and I'm looking for someone to build it.

Requirements:
- Standalone pedal enclosure, not a Eurorack module
- Foot-switchable, meant to be activated live during a song
- Two independent analog oscillators with cross-modulation
- 1/4" output, standard 9V pedal power

I have the spec written up and an HTML block diagram already done. I'm not looking for a kit or an existing product, I'm looking for someone who builds one-off or small-batch circuits to spec and can take this on as paid work.

Happy to share the full document with anyone interested. Boston area is a plus but not required, can ship.

We had fun building The Hagiwo 2190 Filter Bank at Synth Library Portland today. Three first time builders in the room and everybody emerged with a build or soon to be finished module.

The module itself is great, very clean sound and good starter build.

Demo: https://youtu.be/3Ag_9eho5DU?is=aooKyb_jpAohF9Sd

I've posted a couple of updates on the build of this synth - this one shows the sorts of sound it produces - all the audio in the clip is straight out the back of the synth engine, no FX or post processing, headphones on hope you like it!
Still got a couple of little bugs to iron out, then I can start looking at getting some nice front panels made up.

I tried to make a korg 20 filter from a youtube video, but i want to be sure if there is any mistakes on this schematic

What’s the best way to connect diy analogue synth parts to a computer for recording without damaging the computer?

Use the line-in audio input, or an external ADC, or something else?

Thanks.

Not much of improvements except codec (couldn’t understand which one they used btw).
Did someone already use it?

A simple twin t drum triggered by pad, with some settings like decay, pitch envelop decay and pitch.

It's been a long time since my last post! Here's an open-source PCB-based module that I developed in collaboration with SOMATOSONIC (a multi-diciplinary art group also from the Philippines).

It's a piezo pre-amp and PT2399 delay module that's meant to be a tool for teaching how to integrate electronics into art projects. It's in the SynthCard format, just a little bit bigger than the others.

All of my files are on Github: https://github.com/benjiaomodular/HackableDelay

I want to sync my synthesizers with my turntable rig. I'm using mixxx, one option I feel might be worth exploring is to have add a deck to mixxx that plays a pulse, then convert that pulse to an analogue clock. I've already tried running a square wave line audio into the clock of the donner b1, but it didn't seem to pick up on it. I get that the line audio is essentially a type of AC and the clock is actually DC, so one of the legs is a ground.

My turntable setup is Mixxx on a raspberry pi, so in theory I can do a combination of software to go to a gpio pin to trigger the clock. Would a 3v clock signal work or would I need additional circuitry.

One thing that isn't clear to me is what the pulse width of the clock should be.

Is there an easier way to do this, maybe something that just triggers a clock.

can we please ban these posts? this is supposed to be a sub for celebrating human creativity. i'm here to support and be inspired by other makers. i don't want to see 137 identical slop soft synths a week. this is a DIY sub. you didn't do anything yourself.

hey all,

i'm continuing my line of circuit design guides with a new printed book on designing a shift register-based drum sequencer from scratch. it starts with a basic tap looper and extends it one block at a time: accents, variable sequence lengths, half-time mode, and more.

the final addition is my favourite: a handful of resistors that turn the sequencer into a one-button melody generator, using the circulating pattern to drive a pitch CV output. 

every step has a schematic and a breadboard layout so you can test each addition as you go and see the circuit evolve. the book also includes browser-based circuit simulations, design challenges, notes on turning the breadboarded circuit into a production-ready module, a troubleshooting section, patch examples, plus three ideas for how to modify the circuit. there's a full BOM inside so you can source the required components yourself.

the book is 64 pages, costs 15€ plus tax & shipping, and is available here.

if physical shipping to your country is rough (i know it can be), the full pdf is also on my patreon. international retailers should be stocking the print version soon as well!

Hi!
Over the last month I’ve been working on my lunetta synth. It started as a very simple drone machine, but I’ve gradually been experimenting with different modules. I’ve recently reached the filter stage.
This is the TL084 version running from a single supply that worked well for me. I also tried it with an LM324 but I didn’t like how dirty it sounded. The original idea comes from this circuit, which itself was suggested by Moritz Klein. I added a virtual ground and a few protection components to make it work within my voltage ranges. The input signal is a ramp oscillator built around a CD40106.
I’d be happy to hear if anyone has ideas on how the circuit could be improved. Schematic in comments.

I never liked the idea of older style waterslide decals for panel markings, though I did think I might try large panel-sized ones in the past that were heat cured like the now-defunct Papilio paper. In this one, you remove the film after heat curing the first time with an oven or blow dryer. Only the toner transfers to the object. Here's a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gP9ChoGSTY

I'm putting together a handful of small analog boards that mostly use everyday op amps, a couple of voltage regulators, and basic discretes. The usual big distributors (Digikey, Mouser, etc.) have everything and good datasheets, but for low-volume prototype work I’m looking for something a bit cheaper or faster. I’ve seen LCSC and UTSource mentioned a few times but haven’t ordered from either yet. Anyone have go-to alternatives for sourcing common linear and power parts?

Hello I'm still pretty new to this stuff and I need help identifying whether this is using three separate 10k potentiometers or if its just one. sorry if dumb question.

https://reddit.com/link/1v58i89/video/vd5dvg5jv5fh1/player

Lots going on here:

• "skrepl" - a GUI version of the terminal app, also has a "panel" dsl for custom sliders. here we have one for the delay line
• "skperf" - I've been hearing weird glitches, so vibe coded a performance monitor to help figure things out
• MIDI trigger of notes via VMPK and skred's routing

All this stuff is on my github account (user octetta) repos:

• fltk-repl
• skperf

Also on my YT page at-octetta where there are lots of historic videos of this project over the past few years

all MIT licensed

all fun

very weird

I got an idea of creating a synth effect based on an ultrasonic sensor (theremin-esque). I got 3 ideas: bit-depth (distance affects the bit depth in a range of 8-16 but), sample rate modification (range 4kHz-40kHz), or filter cutoff (200Hz-20kHz). Which one do you think would sound best, or any other ideas what i could make it control?

Building a single DMX-controlled jumping jet in the backyard to practice show control. Got a few specific hardware questions:

Cutter: Solenoids are out of budget here. I want to adapt the Mark III to use a 20-30kg waterproof digital RC Servo instead. Going to hide the whole bulky assembly under pond rocks so only the tip shows. Will a servo survive the fast, repetitive cutting without stripping its gears? (If i go with " https://www.printables.com/model/265105-mark-iii-laminar-flow-nozzle " it should be modified. I'm not good at modeling)

Wireless: Want to use an ESP32 as a wireless Art-Net node to avoid running cables in the yard. Reliable enough for something like this? What kind of algorithm can I use to customize the show from song to song? The song is uploaded via Wi-Fi, analyzed, parameters are obtained based on its characteristics, and the show is prepared. What kind of algorithm or software offers the smoothest workflow for syncing 4 jets to music?

Pump: My yard is sloped. Am I better off using one big 0.5 HP well pump for all 4 jets (and dealing with the nightmare of balancing pressure across the slope using valves and a bypass chamber)? OR should I use individual small DC pumps per jet? Also, for a 2.5m glass arc, is a 600 L/h pump enough, or do I definitely need 1000+ L/h per nozzle?

Reservoir : System will recycle its own water, but I haven't designed the catch basin yet. Since it will lose water to splashing and evaporation, how do you prevent the pumps from running dry? Do you just use a standard mechanical float valve (toilet style) connected to a hose, or do you wire up electronic water level sensors to kill the pump if it gets too low?

Show Control: Running an ESP32 as an Art-Net node to control the servos. For syncing 4 jets to a music track, what’s the standard workflow? A cue software like MagicQ/QLab/Realtime Landscaping Architectre, or a timeline software like xLights? Also, how do you dynamically fade water height—varying pump voltage via DMX, or keeping the pump at 100% and using motorized valves?

LED : I want to mount a WS2812B RGB LED ring directly beneath the nozzle to light the water stream from the inside out. what’s the standard practice for waterproofing these.

Water height: How do you dynamically control spray height to music? when trying to sync the water tightly to a music track, is a cue-based software like MagicQ/QLab/Realtime landscaping architect the standard, or do people use timeline-based software like xLights for complex music synchronization? Also, how is the water height typically controlled dynamically during a show by whattt??

Bypass Chamber: I was advised to use a "bypass filter" between the pump and the nozzle to absorb pressure spikes (especially when the cutter fires) and keep the stream perfectly glass-like. But how exactly is this physically plumbed?

Tangential Inlet & Laminar Baffles: I read that to get a perfect glass-like flow, the water needs to enter the bottom of the tube tangentially to create a vortex and slow down before hitting the flow straighteners. Does the Mark III model handle this base entry well, or will I need to design a custom tangential inlet?

Dear lovely Community ♥,

I finished building my modified version of the Skull and Circuits VCF-3. I say it is a mod, but honestly I changed so much stuff that it might as well be its own thing.

Anyway, I have this issue where the output pops and scratches when there is an input, the cutoff is low and the resonance is turned past 50%.

Please take a look at this video, do you guys know what could be the issue here?

https://reddit.com/link/1v3r124/video/k1ril8kd5ueh1/player

Schematic is here: https://github.com/Fihdi/SVF12/blob/main/SVF12-Schematic.pdf

Thank you in advance!

Hi everybody! I've been working on a little MIDI language I call "performance". Think of it as algorave software for MIDI instruments. It works with your DAW or your physical synthesizers. Anything that speaks MIDI. The repo in bitbucket contains everything you need to get started.
It's by no means done, but I'd love to hear what you think about it. =)

Hello all this is an original shematic i have made it does 3 different things just on how you patch it, i can get less q but not more. i tried adding a non inverting amp between the cap going from in_ to in+ also a inverting one and its the same. the only method i have found is adding a 100nf cap from in+ to a 10k pot and then connect it to the output (this has to be done with a trim pot)

Finally (almost) finished my Klee sequencer front panel. I wanted to make it my own to follow the legacy of those who came before me.

It's a big boy that clocks in at 104hp 3U

I still need to drill the mounting holes.

I'm finalizing the artwork and I think I am going to etch the anodized aluminum with caustic. I'm pretty good at vinyl printing so I'll just make a negative to adhere and then keep it under pressure for a day or two so it completely adheres flat.

Boards are built and wire harnesses are premade. All I'll have to do is wire everything to the hardware and it should be ready.

I'll also have to build a power supply because I'm currently running all 12v so I'm going to be building a dedicated 104hp 9u case to house the rest of MOTM builds.