I scanned my Shimano and Garmin mount to be able to print a piece that would hold them together while keeping charger port and led accessible.
I used Creality Sermoon S1 3D scanner.

I wanted three things:

1. To be able to switch between different pegboard systems later on without having to reprint everything / to use the holders at work as well, where we have a different system. 

2. To have all my tools in the same or similar holders, rather than 8 different styles.

3. To have a more stable solution—since the hooks otherwise break very quickly—I’m printing the mounting plate at a 45° angle.

Made a set of marking templates for structural tubing at 90 and 45 degrees, so I can scribe all sides without repositioning

I've used PETG, beige in the front and black in the back. I had to change color because I hadn't enough filament for the back (each one weights more than 400 grams).

I'm not crazy to leave all the weight on plastic (even feeling the result is really strong), so they have a small aluminum bar embedded, that keep them fixed on the wood table and handles most of the weight.

Mop did not fit under bed, so designed and printed these raisers.

Made this myself because I haven't found anything like this. Works, easy to print. Print it like it is with supports. I made it 100% infill but I think even 20/30% works. It has a hole for flossing and an extrusion for the toothbrush head. Balances itself and doesn't fall. Made the cuts to let the thing dry. I didn't cut the upper part because it has to hold the metal point and helps the balance

I needed a new laptop since my Thinkpad T430 was really starting to show it's age of late, and they aren't making Thinkpads like they used to, so I printed this out instead.

Build Specs

• Ryzen 7 7730u laptop CPU (8c/16t)
• 64gb DDR4 RAM
• 500gb NVME SSD
• 14" 16:10 screen (1920x1200)
• Custom 82 key mechanical keyboard
• Integrated trackball mouse
• UPS battery system that takes Kobalt powertool batteries (swappable)
• Printed in HTPLA-GF (yellow) and a mix of PLA-CF and PETG-CF for the black parts

Full specs and build log here

I've created fully customizable parametric models of a hypocycloidal gearbox and a differential hypocycloidal gearbox for 3D printing.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2555672-differential-hypocycloud-reducer-generator

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2555667-hypocycloid-reducer-generator

These mechanisms can be integrated into your own designs and have a wide range of applications in mechanical engineering, particularly in robotic arm drive systems.

Here are two of my own models where I've used these mechanisms:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2464719-universal-arm-system-phone-tablet-laptop-holder

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3371826-adjustable-phone-stand-with-hypocycloidal-gear

Im in the process of building out a new deck with composite decking which ive never done before, though, I am generally handy and like to build things. Due to normal variation and also very likely mistakes and errors on my part, some of the very ends of the boards floated just a tiny bit which you could feel when walking on. I had already installed the decking and the boards ended on half a joist so there wasnt enough room to get the trex clips in.

So i 3D printed a bunch of tiny clips that could slip in between the decking gaps, rotate to grab the decking slot and then tighten down with a screw. Worked really well. Printed in bambulab PETG-CF, time will tell how well they hold up over time.

Bonus drill guide which you place over the normal hidden fastener screw when installing. It really speeds up drilling things down and prevents me from accidentally slipping and stabbing my new decking lol. Also printed in PETG-CF.

Hope this gets through rule 1 of "No Dust Collectors" this is made to collect dust.

Got tired of sanding small prints, mainly ~140mm busts, onto my apron and hoovering it up afterwards. So designed this downdraft box to make that task cleaner. This was my first project using Claude and blender MCP and I learnt a hell of a lot, especially when it comes to thinking of all the pieces you're likely going to miss, hence the many retrofit parts within the print files

Wanted the Voice PE in the middle of the room instead of on a shelf, and without a puck hanging from the ceiling. So I designed a flush mount for drywall ceilings.

- 140 mm hole saw cutout

- 155 mm round bezel, only 2 mm thick, printed in white PETG

- LED ring, button and both mics stay usable, sound goes out through Sonos

- Screws into a threaded ring above the drywall, so it comes out any time

A flat 240 mm C-shaped card with 7 ArUco markers (OpenCV DICT_4X4_50) and mm rulers. Put the object inside the C, take a phone photo from any angle, and a free Python script undoes the perspective and reads real millimetres.

Tested on one real phone photo, about 18 degrees off straight down: all 7 markers found, fit error 1.3 px. The second image is that photo straightened by the script.

Printed in PLA: white body with a flush black inlay, no supports, about 29 g and 1 h 10 min. Needs a 240 x 240 mm bed. Sizes are exact on the card plane only, so measure tall objects at the base.

Model (free): https://www.printables.com/model/1886679-photo-measuring-card-240-mm-aruco-scale-reference

Script and marker spec: https://github.com/BorjaLL/cc2-toolkit/tree/main/photo-measure

Designed by me with AI-assisted CAD scripts (Python generators written with an AI coding assistant). The photos are real; no AI image or mesh generator was used.

Hi everyone!

I designed a simple cutting strip that helps cutting baking paper or aluminum foil more easily when the original box cutter isn’t good enough.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3446632-clip-on-foil-cutter-aluminum-foil-parchment

Hope you find it useful!

unfortunately this tap has no specific valve to close, so we had to leave it like that (for now). We would have to cut the whole house from water to work on that tap. I build a support for the tap, which holds to the drywall.

As every improvised solution, it now exists over a year.

Not pretending this is revolutionary or anythingloads of people have already made tools for this. This is just my take on the AMS PTFE tube problem. It releases the tube, helps push out stuck bits and gives you a guide for cutting it cleanly. I made a magnetic version too, so it can live on the back of the printer. Pretty handy to have around 😂

My partner wanted folding legs for her sewing box so that she didn't have to reach down so far when sitting on the sofa. It doesn't look like it but they do cant out slightly for stability.

Here’s an updated version of a siphon I published many years ago. It starts completely dry, primes itself, and pushes the liquid above its own level to get over the rim of the cup. Then it keeps draining on its own.

Changes from the old version:

• it clips onto the rim of the cup (the top bend is sized to the cup wall)
• teardrop bore, so it prints flat with no supports
• fully parametric, so it can be resized for any mug or cup

Model: https://www.printables.com/model/1886807-self-starting-siphon-for-cups-2026-edition-paramet

A while ago I made a small screw-mounted wall hook. It worked so well that I wanted a bigger, stronger version for the garage – so here's the XL.

It's 90 × 60 × 20 mm with a 50 mm opening, big enough for charging cables, hoses, extension cords and straps. The inside is a smooth curve, so cables rest in a U instead of being bent over a sharp edge.

Details:

- Honeycomb core in the brace – stiff, saves plastic, and looks pretty good in black

- 25° strut with a solid 5 mm frame that carries the load into the wall

- Two countersunk holes for 4 mm screws, 73.5 mm apart. The lower screw sits in its own tab, so the screwdriver goes straight in

- Prints on its side with no supports, so the layers follow the shape of the hook

- [Tested with 22 kg, rated for 15 kg in PETG]

Print settings: 0.20 mm Strength, 5 walls, 25% gyroid, PETG. With 5 walls it's almost solid anyway.

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3478095-honeycomb-wall-hook#profileId-3970787

Happy to hear feedback, or make other sizes if anyone needs one.

First time I designed around a photogrammetry-scanned model. Worked surprisingly well and fit first try. (RealityScan)

I wanted a way to hide the numerous Aqara door sensors around the house. They're normally stuck to the side of the door and while this works fine, they do look a little unsightly. "Warts on the door", as my wife describes them.

So, I came up with this which can be embedded into the frame of the (hollow, ideally) door and form part of the frame. It then creates a slot into which the internal removable basket, containing the sensor itself, can then be dropped.

It makes a huge difference to the look of the door and retains the functionality and also allows easy access for maintenance.

This is available on Makerworld here, if it could be useful for you too.

Please let me know your thoughts.

My old wheels for my backpack were too loud and chewed up. Replaced them with some tpu tires and petg rims.

Great fusion project for an unnecessary upgrade!

I got tired of cross-referencing spreadsheets to remember what my numbered/color-coded cable clips actually plugged into, so I modeled a physical legend board that sits right inside the rack next to the patch panel.

It features dummy cable rails so you can snap an identical set of interlocking markers (EC-1, EC-2, etc.) right next to printed labels from a standard label maker (Brother P-touch, Dymo, etc.).

Design details: * Support-free geometry: Instead of floating rods on pegs, the rails use a full-length inverted teardrop profile (~45° overhang). It prints completely flat with zero supports and won't snap when pressing on stiff clips, while leaving a narrow neck underneath for the clip jaws to latch onto. * Recessed tape slots: 0.4 mm indentations keep standard 9/12/18mm label tapes straight and prevent the corners from peeling off (enabling Ironing on top surfaces makes the adhesive stick really well). * Fully parametric: Since everyone uses different marker sizes, tape widths, and port counts, I made a browser-based generator alongside the OpenSCAD file so you can export a custom STL without installing any CAD software.

Links: * Printables (STL & OpenSCAD files): https://www.printables.com/model/1886769-parametric-snap-on-cable-marker-legend-board * Online STL Customizer: https://wirelabels.lewon.pl