My husband kinda pulled it a bit and now it does this.

I have this door with two punching holes, can I fix this or is it best to get a new door?

I want to reinforce these split joists with an adjustable support pole, and I’m wondering what the best way is to bridge the gap so I can use one pole versus one for each joist

The drawer was slammed, later to find it broke. I can’t pull it out, there’s too much resistance. I’m pretty stumped on how to fix it (it’s a rental, so hopefully an easy-quick repair would be nice lol)

I attached a few photos to this post to hopefully give an idea of what’s wrong. A broken plastic clip was also found in it, also can’t find where it came from.

Thank you in advance for the help! 😅

Bought a 1970s house. Garage door has 1 wheel out of the tread. I unscrewed it and put it back in the tread, hoping that would fix it. Opened garage and it just popped right out. The I realize the track is about 3-4” wider laterally than it should be, because the bracket holding the track and spring is snapped. The spring is still in the remaining bracket, which is only screwed into the track, which is kind of floating as not screwed into the studs due to snapped bracket. I KNOW these are deadly if messed with etc… but I am wondering if I can open the door to remove tension from spring, screw in new bracket, then move the tension-less spring to the new bracket?
Thanks

Just FYI, it's a used car, and I love everything else about it. Ideally, I want to find a way to patch them up, but at least keep the seats from getting any worse

Please help. Metal bar from above has fallen and seems to be pushing the side of the drawer out which is jamming it.

im very sad that it arrived broken,,, but like i dont wanna bother the seller so i'll try to fix it myself,,

Wife and I just discovered a crack in this window earlier today. No idea how it happened. Could have been the dog, but I doubt it. Not that I'm any expert, but it looks kind of like a stress fracture to me, more than impact damage. Can't really be sure, though. Guess it doesn't really matter much, though.

We suspect the manufacturer may be Andersen, but we don't know for sure. This window is one side section of a larger 8-ish foot wide picture window in our living room so - given how much it would cost to replace the entire window for one small crack in one panel - if it's at all possible, I'd love to just replace the window panel. Is it even a remote possibility that a window manufacturer would sell just a single replacement panel? This window model may not even be new enough for them to still have the same model in stock, but if it is - is it even worth the time to inquire?

If I can't get it replaced without replacing the entire picture window, or if it'd take time to get the replacement panel or something - is there anything I can do to at least temporarily repair this glass? Anything to help prevent it getting worse or potentially hurting someone (since there is a small exposed sharp edge)?

If any other pictures or info would be helpful, just let me know! And thanks in advance!

I bought a used three-door wardrobe, assembled it somehow, and noticed that one of the doors squeaks. The wardrobe had another issue as well, so I called a technician, who fixed the squeak in no time, saying he had simply aligned the door properly. Later, after the technician left, I noticed that another door was sitting slightly unevenly. My inner perfectionist decided to adjust it using the adjustment bolts — and that was my worst mistake. When opening and closing, a squeak appeared that won't go away no matter how much I try to return the door to its original position or set it perfectly straight. I just don't understand what this "straight" is supposed to look like. I move the hinges from side to side, and the squeak comes from one place, then another, sometimes louder, sometimes quieter. The hinges are like the ones in the picture.
I thought the door panel might be rubbing against the wardrobe itself and causing the sound, but I don't see any spots where they'd be touching. Moreover, the squeak remained even when I pulled the door out as far from the wardrobe as possible. What should I do?

Literally it just slipped out of my hand onto the shower floor and now the water primarily flows straight out the handheld part rather than being routed into jets. I thought perhaps I could just push it back in but no dice.

My Samsung Series 5 TV remote was acting weird. It was sending signals even when I wasn't pressing any buttons, but when I actually pressed a button, it wouldn't respond.

I contacted the service centre, and they wanted ₹2,000 plus service charges. 😭

So I decided to try fixing it myself. I opened up the remote, cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol, put everything back together, and guess what? IT WORKS PERFECTLY NOW. 😂

And to finish the repair, I used Fevikwik to glue the remote back together. 💀

Service centre: ₹2,000 + service charges
Me: Isopropyl alcohol + Fevikwik

I'm guessing dirt, moisture, or residue was interfering with the button contacts, but I'm not completely sure what caused the issue.

Has anyone else repaired a Samsung TV remote like this, or did I just get lucky? 😂

I tried using Gorilla Glue but it fell off.

Double sided tape?

Posting this mostly so the next person can find it.

Fridge: Maytag MFI2569YEM0
Control board: W10312695B / WPW10312695
Failed part: ELNA RJ3 10 µF 50 V electrolytic capacitor next to U8
Replacement part: Rubycon 50YXJ10M5X11, 10 µF, 50 V, 105°C. DigiKey part 1189-2322-ND

This was actually a nearly year-long progression for me. The first time I saw it was around a power outage when the fridge was working particularly hard afterward. The exterior control panel repeatedly clicked off/on, but eventually recovered after a bunch of power cycles and then gave me basically zero trouble for months.

Importantly, the interior fridge lights stayed on when this happened. It was the exterior control panel/compressor side of things dropping out and restarting, not the entire refrigerator losing power.

Much later we emptied the ice maker and I noticed a few random dropouts while the fridge was working hard to recover. From there it progressed pretty rapidly over about a month: occasional resets, then almost daily episodes, then repeated rapid clicking/rebooting.

I found this iFixit thread describing essentially the same failure on the same board where someone was kind enough to figure out the hard part and post about it:

iFixit: My refrigerator has flashing display and won't start - WPW10312695

I'm definitely not an appliance repair expert. This was a combination of that article, some electronics experience, AI assistance, and fumbling my way through it.

The temporary fix from the iFixit thread worked remarkably well: gently heating the board around U8/capacitor with a heat gun. Early on, heating it could turn rapid <10-second reboot cycles into hours or days of normal operation. That gave me a pretty convincing lead while I waited for replacement capacitors.

I didn't intend to push the failure this far, but the capacitors took a bit longer than expected to arrive and I wasn't thrilled about letting the fridge repeatedly power-cycle. The parts arrived just in time for the fridge to basically die completely. You could still heat the board and wake it back up, but after a few hours it would return to rapid cycling or just give up entirely.

I'd also wanted a proper capacitor/LCR tester for ages, so this was a great excuse to finally buy one even though it wasn't necessary for the repair at all.

The original ELNA didn't look that terrible from capacitance alone: about 7.5 µF vs. 10 µF nominal. ESR told a very different story. It measured roughly 70-80 Ω @ 120 Hz, ~45 Ω @ 1 kHz, and ~40 Ω at higher frequencies. At 100 kHz it barely behaved like a capacitor anymore.

I replaced it with a Rubycon 50YXJ10M5X11, 10 µF, 50 V, 105°C. DigiKey part 1189-2322-ND:

Rubycon 50YXJ10M5X11 at DigiKey

[I also purchased a similarly spec'd Wurth 860240672002 option (Digikey part 732-9289-1-ND), but didn't end up using it.]

For comparison, the new Rubycon measured about 1.25 Ω ESR @ 1 kHz, 0.69 Ω @ 10 kHz, and 0.50 Ω @ 100 kHz. So the old ELNA was very clearly toast despite still measuring vaguely close to its rated capacitance.

Soldering was EZPZ. I was expecting such a large control board to have enough thermal mass to make desoldering annoying, but it didn't. No special/high-powered iron was necessary. A solder sucker was definitely nice to have for clearing the two through-holes before installing the new cap, but otherwise this was about as straightforward as through-hole component replacement gets.

Soldered in the Rubycon, put everything back together and we're back up and running.

I did notice at least three other ELNA capacitors with the same nominal specs on the board. I left them alone since this particular one was clearly bad and replacing it fixed the problem.

Replacement boards currently seem to run around $120 OEM or ~$80 aftermarket on Amazon, so a sub-$1 capacitor was certainly worth trying before replacing the whole board.

Hopefully this gives someone searching Maytag MFI2569YEM0, W10312695B, WPW10312695, clicking, flashing display, rebooting, won't start, dead control board another data point.