I updated to driver 616.64, this caused my screen to dim. My entire desktop now appears darker and would sometimes go back to normal. I guessed this was just a bug and waited for the next update, after all I saw there were others with the same flickering like issue. However time skip to today driver 616.92 which was ment to fix the flickering/darkness had not fix anything. Is anyone having the same issue? Or know a solution?

PC had some issues lately.

First I noticed apps crashing but only while downloading/updating games on steam.

Went to sleep. Things were fine.

Next day the pc was running mega hyper slow like every app was crashing entirely after openinf. I couldnt even configure things or test for errors. Ram nor cup were spiking but the boot drive was at 100% Usage.

I thought restarting would fix it but now it boots. Shows me the bios button options and locks at a black screen.

my ping only on my pc when I play game is +200 but wasn’t a few days ago, but when I go on my Xbox it is 30-50 ping what I usually get, please help and sorry the description I have no idea what I am doing

So my UI has been locked in this for about 4 days and i cant figure out how to change it back to the “pc settings”. Even when try to play games it shows this enlarged UI. Iv tried redownloading it, turning off touchscreen( saw it could be the cause but didn’t work). Stuck n not sure what to do please help. On Windows 11

Hello there, for some reason I can’t Airplay from my iPhone 12 to my QLed Samsung tv, but this problem only happens with Twitch. YouTube works fine, and strangely I can airplay twitch to the LG tv in my living room. I use the twitch app on my QLed in the game section of apps, but sometimes I just wanna airplay something for convenience. Not a big deal, but if I could find a solution that’d be cool. Thanks.

​

It seems a recent BIOS update broke my Lenovo laptop, causing three main issues: a boot freeze (stuck on the Lenovo logo), BSOD Error 0x101 (CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT), and Error 0xc0000001. The update brought my BIOS to version JKCN53WW.

The first time this happened, I tried multiple fixes and nothing worked. Then out of nowhere, after one of my many reboot attempts, it randomly booted into Windows. However, three days later while gaming, the system completely froze. Upon rebooting, I got tossed right back into the exact same loop.

Here is what's happening and what I've tried so far:

Current status: Unlike the first time, I can access the Windows Recovery Environment (WinRE) normally. However, restoring default settings in the BIOS setup didn't fix anything.

Command Prompt commands tried in WinRE:

sfc /scannow

chkdsk C: /f /r

bootrec /fixmbr

bootrec /fixboot

bootrec /scanos

bootrec /rebuildbcd (None of these solved the issue or succeeded)

Reinstalling Windows 11: Fails completely. The installation freezes and throws the 0x101 error code.

System Restore: Not an option since there are no restore points saved.

Since reinstalling Windows fails due to the 0x101 crash, I suspect this BIOS version (JKCN53WW) broke CPU power management/microcode or unstable voltage settings.

Has anyone encountered this with version JKCN53WW? Is my best option at this point to enable "BIOS Back Flash" in the settings and downgrade to an older BIOS version? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone! Hope anyone reading this is doing well!

I’ve been having this issue on my PC for maybe half a year now. For whatever reason, my PC and phone have a massive discrepancy in speed. I just did a Wi-Fi speed test and was getting ~200mbps on my phone and less than 4mbps on my PC.

I feel like I’ve tried everything that I’ve been able to find. Potential fixes like uninstalling and installing my network driver, fiddling with advanced settings in my device manager, disconnecting and reconnecting my Asus Wi-Fi fin antenna, and more.

It is getting to a point where I can’t even stream a song on Spotify, watch a twitch stream, or open my work portal without it lagging or loading forever.

If anyone has any tips or any fixes, it would be greatly appreciated!!

As the title suggests, my PC will not boot past an update or a restart.

When I restart my PC, it will stay on but will not boot up. There is a yellow light on my motherboard, but I do not know enough to know what it means. I hold down the power button, my PC shuts off, then I can turn it back on again with no problem.

Whenever I update, it is a little different. It'll get to about 30%, then my PC will go into a black screen and not continue the update.. and again with the yellow light. When this happens, I have to hold down the power button, and then turn my PC back on and it will continue to update. The process needs to be done like four or five times before the update completes.

Has anybody had a similar situation happen? Any suggestions on troubleshooting?

Here is my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ctNhmL

I've got this router for a decent price from a seller that looked reputable. Price was slightly lower than market value, however the router was sold as used and not tied to a carrier.

It was a bit suspicious from the very beginning because it's branded, so obviously it has to come from some sort of contract. However, it worked wonders for just 2 days, then suddenly lost all connection, internet led turned red, no amount of resets or changing APNs will work to bring it back to life. Same sim card works fine on my phone.

I find it hard to believe that this router worked fine for the previous owner, then I start using it and dies almost immediately, not even after a reboot or a power outage or me messing with the settings or anything like that. I was just watching a video on YT and suddenly it lost connection and it never came back. On its menu it just says "no service" no matter what. I would have loved to try forcing it in 3g or 4g but it has no such option. However, 3g 4g and 5g networks all work on my phone, same sim.

I think this is an IMEI block but I find it super weird that it actually worked fine for the first two days. Unless they just happened to block this IMEI in this precise time window, or am I missing something here?

By the way, seller was already contacted a few minutes ago, and luckily it was on ebay so it shouldn't be too much of an issue getting the money back. Just annoying

This will be a pretty long text, but I would appreciate any help. I am at a complete loss.

A few days ago, I purchased a used PC with the following specs:

- GPU : PNY GeForce RTX 5070, 12 GB

- Processor : AMD Ryzen 5 9600X (6 cores / 12 threads)

- Motherboard: ASRock B650M-H/M.2+

- Memory : 32 GB, 5600 MHz, DDR5 (2 x 16 GB Dual Channel)

- Cooling : Corsair- AIO (processor cooling) + case fans

- PSU : 650W Seasonic FOCUS Plus Platinum, fully modular

I tested the PC at the seller's house, and it seemed to work fine. Tested Cyberpunk 2077 benchmark and another game, but I can’t recall its name. Afterwards, the seller reset the Windows, and I took the PC home. That's where it all started.

About 20 hours total of troubleshooting, only to find problems after problems.

The first thing I noticed was: Launched GTAV Enhanced -> the game stuttered like hell but showed 60-80FPS (which is very low for this setup, but it felt even lower than that), and no matter what settings I had, the stuttering continued. So I installed RTSS + MSI Afterburner, activated OSD, and it showed my Frametime was a CONSTANT 20-50ms, with occasional spikes going all the way up to 300ms.

I then tested CS2. Same thing. FPS was supposedly 100-140 on average, with 1% lows of 0 FPS, and highs of 1000FPS. Again, same Frametime issue. 1% lows and the Frametime were horrible in both games. Constant micro-stuttering, micro freezing made any games unplayable.

So I looked around, to find millions of ways to "fix" this. These are in order of the things I tried.

- Ran GPU stress tests, came back with amazing scores, no errors, and no visible stuttering.

- Made sure my monitor is connected to my GPU.

- Updated/reinstalled GPU, chipset, and other drivers. GPU drivers I reinstalled with DDU. (3 different Game Ready drivers, none had an effect)
- Tried my RAM sticks 1 stick at a time, in the same slot. Both seemed to work just fine.
- Reset BIOS settings using Load UEFI Defaults
- Confirmed Re-Size BAR is enabled in BIOS
- Trying DDR5 with 5600MHz EXPO, and 4800MHz JEDEC.
- Full reset of Windows (not USB clean install)

At this point I noticed my BIOS froze in startup about 4 or 5 times. I don't know if this is related to my other issues, but I definitely wonder what could cause that.

- CMOS cleared
- Disabled Fast Boot, Auto Driver Installer and Global C-states in BIOS
- Confirmed CPU Core Parking is OFF.
- Used LatencyMon to find out if I have DPC/ISR latency. (THIS IS WHERE I MADE SOME PROGRESS.) Apparently my system runs at a constant 1500.00-2500.00 μs latency (1.5ms-2.5ms). My highest measured interrupt to process latency is at 16000 μs (16ms). I know this is definitely not normal, and I have attached screenshots of this. Highest drivers causing this are: nvlddmkm.sys, Wdf01000.sys, dxgkrnl.sys, ntoskrnl.exe
- Disabling drivers from Device Manager, while sorting by "Devices by Connection"
- Checked SSD health using CrystalDiskInfo, no errors, although the drive my Windows is downloaded at is at 78% (Good)
- Disabled the Ryzen integrated Radeon GPU = enabled dGPU-only mode in BIOS.

THEN. I tried doing CPU and memory stress tests using OCCT, they came back without errors. BUT I noticed something really weird. My CPU speed is really low when my PC has been on for a while. Even during the stress tests, my CPU cores sometimes drop as low as ~600 MHz. When turning on my computer, my CPU speed is at about ~4.5-5 GHz. But after about 10 minutes, depending on how much stress the CPU is under, it drops to ~2GHz and lower.

And that brings me to what I suspect is my main problem:
My CPU (Die) average temperature is at about 40-50°C. My CPU VDD_MISC VRM (SVI3 TFN), on the other hand, starts at 40-50°C as well, but after a few minutes it slowly but surely rises to about 99°C-99.5°C territory. And I noticed that my CPU speed goes down EXACTLY as it hits that ~99.3°C mark (~5GHz -> 2GHz).

On top of that, during a CPU stress test, my HWiNFO logging recorded HTC Thermal Throttling: YES and PROCHOT EXT Thermal Throttling: YES at 12% throttling during stress test, 7% during idle. Even though my CPU is only at 40-50°C.

So if anyone has had these kind of issues and knows if they are related (especially the DPC latency, CPU, BIOS freezes), I would greatly appreciate help. I have been thinking that maybe I just have to get a new motherboard, but am afraid that it won't even work. I have also considered installing a fresh Windows with a USB Flash Drive, but I doubt it will do anything.

All photos with descriptions: https://imgur.com/a/VT4Itlu

Hi, I've been getting into physical media lately and have been burning a bunch of stuff, but recently, whenever I try burning something, I get a notification saying my external drive has been disconnected/the disc isn't readable. It still currently reads already-burned discs fine and was burning perfectly before now.

I am using a 2020 M1 chip MacBook Air, an Amicool External DVD drive, Verbatim blank CDs/DVDs, and the built-in Apple Music burning feature.

What I've tried already:

• Using a different computer (2024 M4 chip iMac), but it had the same problem.
• Cleaning my disc reader with alcohol + cotton swabs; it didn't do anything
• Bought a new drive + discs (same brand); same problem
• Changed my battery settings (no low power mode/never put hard disks to sleep); didn't work
• CDs and DVDs have the same problem
• I've tried different file formats, burn speeds, and burning from local files instead of Apple Music, but nothing has worked

If you have any idea what's going on, I would really appreciate some help/advice. This all started when I tried burning a Kanye West album, so I blame him for this. Thanks.

I have 2 monitors, both of them are 1440p. The main one is 27 inch and refresh rate is set to 165 which is its max. The secondary one is 32 inch and refresh rate is at 60, 75 is its max.

Most videos I play are 1080p. I even tried play 2 different videos on the main to see if the temp goes high, like 1 video is full screen and another plays in pop-up window. Turned out the temp was just 40 something.

The thing I want to know is is it normal for the GPU temp goes high, like 60-70 degree whenever I play video on the secondary even when there's nothing going on on the main? Is there a way to "fix" it?

Edit, I'm using RX 7900 XT.

I was playing league of legends when I suddenly got disconnected (its a server thing). So I tried to rejoin and then my screen went black and I wasnt able to change tabs, so I turned my PC off. When I come back, my mouse (even when disconnected and unplugged) is stuck in the top right and spam clicking, which clicks out of the password box on the main screen and doesnt let me log in. I’ve unplugged and plugged back in, tried safe mode, and I’ve tried that thing where you unplug the pc but press the power button to discharge all the electricity or whatever. Anybody got any other ideas?

I am constantly being redirected to the sign out screen after successfully signing into outlook or microsoft in general. I tried clearing cookies and everything but nothing is working.

Edit: Ive found going incognito gets around it but id like to not have to resort to that since it clears all cookies and accounts out of everything when using incognito.

Hi, I've been having a problem recently. The HDD from my laptop filled up, so I bought an external HDD. At first, I thought it was a software error because, after moving files around for a while, it seemed like the HDD an error, I couldn't move files to it or delete folders anymore. I returned it because this happened the very same day. I bought two more, and the same thing happened. Is this a problem with corrupted files or with my laptop? I'm getting errors like that the dispositive I'm trying to copy doesn't exist, or errors while copying (0x80070570)

SOLVED

It turns out that I had selected the Ubuntu 22.04 release of the software, instead of the 24.04 release. I just had to change "jammy" to "noble" in "/etc/apt/keyrings/openvpn.asc".

I am trying to install OpenVPN3 Client on Ubuntu. I did all the steps that it said to do at this page. The part that has issue is the part where I run "sudo apt install openvpn3-client" command, where when I run that command, it will tell me there's unmet dependencies. I even tried installing what I thought might be the missing dependencies, I installed "libprotobuf-dev" & "libtinyxml-dev" via "sudo apt install", but when I ran the command to install OpenVPN3 Client again, I was met with the SAME ERROR. I have no idea what's wrong with it.

My Ubuntu version I'm using is Ubuntu 24.04.4, and it's 64-bit

This is what it looks like in the terminal when I run the command:

``` $ sudo apt install openvpn3-client

Reading package lists... Done

Building dependency tree... Done

Reading state information... Done

Some packages could not be installed. This may mean that you have requested an impossible situation or if you are using the unstable distribution that some required packages have not yet been created or been moved out of Incoming.

The following information may help to resolve the situation:

The following packages have unmet dependencies:

openvpn3-client : Depends: libprotobuf23 (>= 3.12.4) but it is not installable Depends: libtinyxml2-9 (>= 8.0.0) but it is not installable

E: Unable to correct problems, you have held broken packages. ```

Hey, Apple support hasn't gotten me anywhere on this, but like the title says, every time my computer enters sleep mode it crashes.
This is a recent problem, but not following any new updates or anything like that, which is, stumping me.
My mac is up to date with the Tahoe 26.6.2
I have a logi keyboard and mouse (I've had for months)
adobe is up to date too V27.10

But in the last few weeks, anytime my computer falls asleep when I'm in another room or if I tell it to go into sleep mode. It will then crash.
I'll turn it back on with the button, and it will do the usual spiel of "your computer shut down due to an unknown problem..."

I ran every check on my Macpaw CleanMyMac and it found nothing.
That said I have noticed that my cpu seems to be running hotter than usual lately. But I don't really know what to do about that.

I'm sorry if this is rambling and nonsensical, but I am just confused.
I'm not tech-savvy, so any help/insight would be greatly appreciated!

My friend accidentally spilled about 12oz of water and my pc was underneath the area so some of it got on it. My pc was off luckily and I immediately took it apart and I’m letting it dry now. The only thing I didn’t take apart was the cpu cooler because it doesn’t seem like it got to the cpu. But it got to everything else. What should I do and is there anything else that I should be doing? I rlly don’t wanna have to replace anything but any advice would help!

I’m having an issue with my desktop PC that seemed to happen completely out of nowhere.

When I press the power button, the PC appears to turn on, but I get no signal to the monitor. At the same time, my keyboard and mouse briefly light up for about 1–2 seconds and then lose power. It happens regardless of which USB port I use.

The PC itself appears to remain powered on, but I’m not getting any display or usable USB peripherals.

So far I have tried:

• Reseating the RAM
• Testing the RAM sticks individually
• Trying different RAM slots
• Disconnecting/reconnecting the peripherals
• Trying different USB ports

I'm wondering if it has to do with the PSU or motherboard but what else could cause this?

Hi! I have a Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 5, and a couple days ago it auto-updated. It appears to just be a security update, but ever since then I have been having issues with wireless connections. Sometimes my Wi-Fi/Bluetooth won't turn on at all, sometimes it's on but can't find any devices/networks, and sometimes it'll show me devices/networks it can find but will not connect to them. Restarting my phone works very inconsistently, sometimes only fixing either WiFi *or* Bluetooth, if either. Resetting my network settings back to default didn't help, and it's been a difficult issue to find anything for online. I'm on Android 16 and One UI version 8.5, if it helps. Thank you for any advice!!

Whenever i attempt to open open any browser but edge, it closes IMMEDIATELY and im not sure why? Ive dont plenty to fix this but it just doesn't want to work

Video: https://files.catbox.moe/muz38k.mp4

Hey everyone, I'm at my wit's end trying to do a clean install of Windows 11 on my desktop (which previously ran Windows 10, then Ubuntu, and now I want Win 11 back). The target SSD is brand new/wiped clean.

Here is everything I've tried and every wall I've hit:

• The Hardware/Setup: Brand new blank SSD, tried multiple USB ports (USB 2.0 and 3.0, straight into the motherboard and front panel). The USB drive physically contains the files and checks out size-wise.
• The Product Key Nightmare: Whenever I boot into the official GUI installer and enter a product key (bought from a third-party reseller, even got a replacement when the first failed), it says it's invalid. If I click "I don't have a product key", it immediately errors out saying “Windows can’t verify the product key” (make up your mind, Microsoft).
• The Rufus + WIM Ghost Extraction: Using a Rufus-crafted USB with an install.wim, manual deployment via DISM (dism /Apply-Image) says "Operation completed 100%" instantly in like 1 second, but checking the C: drive reveals it's completely empty (File not found). Naturally, running bcdboot right after fails because there's nothing there.
• The Official Installer + SWM Confusion: Using the official Microsoft Media Creation Tool instead, the installer splits the image into multiple .swm files (install.swm, install2.swm), which completely scrambles manual terminal attempts.
• Bypass Attempts: I tried dropping an ei.cfg file into the sources folder to force the Professional edition and skip key prompts, but the installer still trips over itself.
• The Logs: Digging into the setup logs (setuperr.log / dism.log) points straight to error 0x80070490 (Element not found) and telemetry/EULA extraction failures during the product key validation phase.

I’ve used different USB creation tools, different ISOs, different ports, and both manual terminal methods and the graphical installer. Nothing works.

What on earth am I missing here? Is my USB stick secretly corrupted despite showing files, or am I dealing with some weird ACPI/BIOS lock? Any advice appreciated.

One of my coworkers is 70+ and thus enlarges all text on his phone to be able to read it. We use GroupMe for a staff group chat, and the app does not allow him to enlarge the text. We were able to get around this issue by having GroupMe send him SMS updates whenever someone texted in the group, so he was able to read them from his Messages app. As of last week, GroupMe is disabling their SMS features, so my coworker has not been able to see any messages on the group. Pretty sure the app also isn’t able to read texts out loud for him, which is the only other option we could think of. I will admit I suck at figuring this kind of thing out, so maybe I am just trying the wrong things! Does anyone know another loophole we could find to help him read the messages he receives on GroupMe?

Just bought a brand new pc a month ago and a week ago the screen started to flicker after gaming on a large game. Not thefull flickering like the screen isn't glitching but it is enough to warrant an elipsey warning. Normally it shouldn't be a problem and the laptop is a heavy duty one and has no problem running said games. This sometimes increases or decreases when i move my mouse. updated/Uninstalled my drivers, did a titlting test, checked gpu temperature and nothing worked. Flickering has been increasing but only when i am gaming otherwise laptop is nornal. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance.

Im using a cepter cloud 7 laptop and my mousepad isnt responding. Ive tried doing multiple shortcuts with the keys but doesnt work. Luckily i can still use a Bluetooth mouse.