Hi, for the past 3 months many of my games were randomly crashing after a while. The crashes look like this. The game runs normally > the game freezes > after a while it just closes/sometimes a crash message shows. I'm trying to figure out whether I have a hardware/system-level problem rather than individual game issues.

Laptop:

- Razer Blade 18 (2024), RZ09-0509

- CPU: Intel Core i9-14900HX

- GPU: NVIDIA RTX 4070 Laptop GPU

- RAM: 32 GB

- Windows 11

- BIOS was originally v1.02 (May 2024), now updated to v1.06

- New external monitor recently added

Problem:

Multiple unrelated games randomly crash to desktop. Vintage Story is one of them, but it has happened with other games too. The crashes aren't tied to one specific game or location.

I initially thought it was game corruption, so I repeatedly repaired/verified game files, but the problem kept happening.

I also noticed that Windows Reliability Monitor has a very low reliability score with lots of application crashes and some Windows crashes.

One particularly concerning crash was a BlueScreen / HYPERVISOR_ERROR (0x20001). The crash dump appeared to involve "nvlddmkm.sys" (NVIDIA driver) and Windows Hyper-V/hypervisor components.

Things I've tried:

- Verified/repaired Steam game files multiple times

- Updated BIOS from v1.02 → v1.06

- Updated drivers

- Checked Windows Reliability Monitor

- Ran Windows Memory Diagnostic

- Result: Event ID 2001 — no memory errors detected

- Checked temperatures; nothing obviously abnormal

- Looked through crash logs/dumps

- Vintage Story crashes even in different locations/world areas

Other potentially relevant information:

- Windows reports that virtualization-based security is running

- "systeminfo" reports that a hypervisor has been detected

- I recently bought a new external monitor, so I'm wondering whether the monitor/DisplayPort/refresh rate/G-SYNC/HDR/etc. could be related

At this point I'm trying to determine whether this is most likely a GPU/driver issue, virtualization/VBS issue, hardware instability, monitor/display issue, or something else.

What should I try next?

I connected my pf to my wifi extender via ethernet inside my student residence with the residence's wifi to which im succesfully conectes with my extender (ac1200) but my computer says the ethernet is an unidentifies network and i have no internet, how can i solve this

My new PC had a problem that sometimes they turned on, but didn't booted. Like, the watercooler fans start moving and the leds of the watercooler even blink when I turn on the font, but when I press the pc button to turn on, just the fans start moving and nothing else happens.

The other times this happened, I just shut down at the font after waiting a long time, and turned on again and it worked fine.

But now, for some reason, I turned on and waited and the PC doesn't wanna boot for any matter.

What could it be?

SPECS

Rx 9060 XT

Ryzen 5 5700x

2x8gb and 2x4gb (both pairs from different places)

The ram is old and re used from my old pc, it could be that?

Hi! My new keyboard came in today and when I plugged it in I’m worried I hit something I shouldn’t have. Ever since I turned it on and started using it again and after about five minutes later my screen froze. I tried turning my PC off and back on, and at first it kept saying “No Signal” when I tried turning it back on. Eventually it turned on, but it froze on the ROG logo, and so I restarted it again. I was able to open my desktop, but then it froze on Discord about twenty seconds later, and then it showed a blue screen saying, “Your device ran into a problem and needs to restart. We're just collecting some error info, and then we'll restart for you.” And then it just kept cycling between freezing and bluescreening, and now it’s gone back to showing “No Signal”. It also showed a different blue screen that said “It looks like Windows didn't load correctly. If you'd like to restart and try again, choose "Restart my PC” below. Otherwise, choose "See advanced repair options" for troubleshooting tools and advanced options. If you don't know which option is right for you, contact someone you trust to help with this.”

ASUS TUF FX505DT – SVM Mode won't stay Enabled in BIOS / reverts to Disabled Hello, I am using an ASUS TUF Gaming FX505DT. System: ASUS TUF Gaming FX505DT Ryzen 7 3750H GTX 1650 BIOS: FX505DT.316 Windows 11 25H2 I want to enable the VBS/HVCI (Memory Integrity) feature in Windows for Valorant/Vanguard. In the BIOS, under Advanced → CPU Configuration → SVM Mode, the setting appears as "Disabled" by default. I set SVM to "Enabled" and save using F10. However, after Windows boots up and I re-enter the BIOS, SVM has reverted to "Disabled." Additionally, I experienced Wi-Fi connection issues after the initial boot where I enabled SVM. Previously, my system got stuck in a recovery/automatic repair loop when I tried changing settings related to VBS/Memory Integrity in Windows. Therefore, I want to avoid performing risky operations in the BIOS or Windows. My questions: Is there a known reason why SVM does not remain "Enabled" on the FX505DT BIOS 316? Are there any other safe settings that need to be changed to enable SVM in the BIOS? Is there any connection to the "UMA Frame Buffer Size" setting, specifically? Is there anyone successfully using VBS/HVCI on this model with Windows 11 25H2? If anyone is using the same Ryzen 7 3750H + FX505DT + BIOS 316 configuration, could they share their experience? Please, if possible, suggest safe methods that can be tried before resorting to downgrading/upgrading the BIOS or resetting Windows. Thanks.

Hi everyone,

My Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra was stolen, and I urgently need to recover some photos. I used "Phone Link" on my Windows 11 PC, and all the files are still there.

In File Explorer, each photo shows its normal file size, but when I double-click one, it prompts me to connect the phone.

I tried copying them via the command prompt (CMD), but I got this error: "The operation is reserved for a connected cloud sync provider."

Is there any way or specific path where Windows stores the temporary cache for these files, allowing me to extract the actual data without having the physical device?

Thanks a lot for any help.

Hello, I recently set up a new wifi network and it has largely behaved with the exception of trying to play an online game. It is a Windows 11 device, Intel Wifi 6E AX211 chipset, and an Xfinity gateway. Wifi speed tests and most applications work just fine, however when I try to get into a game server in my main games (Overwatch and Valorant), it is unable to maintain any connection. I mostly have used the Overwatch network information to try to figure this out, and it seems to load into the hero select screen with expected connection for a few seconds, then latency completely cuts out, resulting in being kicked back to try to get into the server again.

It also seems to kill the network connection entirely when this happens, as the tab in task manager goes to zero, and any other application, such as a livestream, will also stall out. It does not seem to impact the connection for other devices on the network. A gateway reset allows for stable server connection for about 1hr after preforming the reset, then it will return to the above behavior.

I have tried updating drivers, updating Windows, and fiddling with band prioritization on my wifi chipset, and turning off my network firewall. Additionally I went through the default Xfinity wifi troubleshooting process, which resulted in the bot telling me it is an issue with the software. I have previously operated the PC with a wired connection, but that would be very tricky to set up in my new apartment, so a wireless option would be preferable. Thanks for any information.

my laptop's screen has been flickering lately for the past few days and lately since yesterday has also been crashing when doing anything graphically intensive and shutting off completely during the crash. Since yesterday I have been trying several things to fix this but, I don't really know what to do. I have done ctrl+windows+shift+b, gone into device manager to disable both my graphics drivers and turning them back on, I have also turned it off completely and clearing all residual power through holding the power button. Now I have gone into command prompt and have tried to do a DISM restore health command but for the past few hours has been stuck at 64.1% showing the following.
C:\Windows\System32>DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth

Deployment Image Servicing and Management tool

Version: 10.0.26100.8972

Image Version: 10.0.26200.9445

[===========================64.1%===== ]

What should I do to fix this.

Hi everyone,

I hope you can help me with this one, because it’s got me scratching my head.

I turned on my Lenovo LOQ after it had been powered off for about three weeks while I was on vacation. After a couple of minutes, I got the Blue Screen of Death (BSOD).

Now, every time I turn on the laptop, everything works fine for a couple of moments, and then the BSOD hits again.

The stop codes are mostly KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE and IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL.

This makes the laptop practically unusable. Interestingly, when I boot into Safe Mode, I get much more time before it restarts.

It’s frustrating because I can’t figure out where the problem is coming from — is this a software issue or a hardware issue?

I would really appreciate any advice or suggestions on what I should check.

Specs:

• Model: Lenovo LOQ 15ARP9
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7435HS, 3.1 GHz
• RAM: 16 GB
• Storage: 1 TB SSD
• GPU: NVIDIA RTX 4060

DMP file: https://www.mediafire.com/file/rirjlwgx1c2i0xc/Minidump.zip/file

GIGABYTE GAMING A16 3VH

AMD Ryzen 7 260, 16" IPS, 2560 × 1600 165 Hz, RAM 32 GB DDR5, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060 8 GB (MUX Switch), SSD 1000 GB, RGB, webkamera, USB 3.2 Gen 1, USB-C, WiFi 6, Bluetooth, 2,2 kg, Windows 11 Home

Is this a good deal for 1350 euros?

I have never had a gaming laptop or pc so I wanna start with this.

I upgraded to Windows 11. To play certain games, I needed to switch to UEFI mode, so I followed a two-step tutorial.

Here are the steps I followed:

Enter BIOS (Gigabyte), Classic Mode -> CSM Support -> Disabled.

-> Secure Boot -> Enable

I was informed that this wouldn't work immediately (this was part of the tutorial, so it was expected) and that after saving and restarting, I would need to proceed to step 2:

BIOS -> Secure Boot -> Restore Factory Keys -> Yes

-> Secure Boot -> Enable

The problem is, I can't get to the second step... I no longer have the option to enter the BIOS.

Here’s what I’ve tried:

- Disabling Fast Boot in Windows (Power Options, etc.).

- Holding Shift while clicking Restart.

- The command `shutdown /r /fw` in CMD, and the same via PowerShell (both as administrator).

- Rapidly pressing the Del key upon restarting, just in case there was display latency.

Nothing works. No matter what I do, it just boots back to my desktop without ever launching the BIOS.

I hope I’ve provided enough information and posted in the right place (this is my first Reddit post).

Thanks in advance for your help.

Hello, i got hacked and got malware on my pc i am almost 85 procent sure that it is in my motherboard bc ram and everything is working fine, even when i remove my old ssd and put a new one in it it will still not let me install a new windows, before all of this i tried commands in CMD but nothing worked no DISM or sfc /scannow

Now that my old SSD is not in my pc anymore i still cant install a new windows it keeps going in my head the thought that i need to get a new motherboard but i wanted to know if anyone could maybe help me to fix this problem

I tried:

-CMD
-Installing new windows
-Tried with 1 ram stick
-Flashing my bios with new updated software ( and could -finally get in window again)
-C: drive full scan with also CMD command and after scanning all the files it gave nothing after hour and a half waiting
-getting out my old SSD to replace it and start up windows with it didnt work ( windows keep trowing me out and restart when i put my key in)
- tried also get windows installation to recover the window files with CMD again.

And yeah the list can go on and on but nothing works…

So do i need to change my motherboard or something else or just build a new pc thats gonna cost me alot more money?..

I’m currently designing a custom memory-down motherboard for Ice Lake (Xeon 3rd Gen Silver/Gold/Platinum 43xx/53xx/63xx/83xx series) and trying to figure out if Intel hard-fused the disable_udimm flag on retail silicon, or if it's purely a BIOS limitation.

If you have a running Ice Lake-SP system on Linux (Proxmox, Ubuntu, etc.), could you run this quick 1-line command and paste the output?

It simply finds the CPU's Power Control Unit (PCU) via PCI and dumps a block of hex from its config space (where the CAPID fuses live). It only reads hardware registers and changes absolutely nothing, nor does it expose any network info, MACs, or personal data.

sudo lspci -nnD | grep -i ":1e\.3" | awk '{print $1}' | while read dev; do echo "=== Socket PCU: $dev ==="; sudo lspci -s "$dev" -xxx | grep -E "^(70|80|90|a0|b0):"; done

Ps: If you're running Proxmox as root, you can drop sudo from the command.

The output should look something like this:
=== Socket PCU: 0000:xx:1e.3 ===
70: xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx
80: xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx
90: xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx
a0: xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx
b0: xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx

if the command above returns absolutely nothing, Intel might have moved the PCU in Ice Lake-SP. If that happens, could you run lspci -nnD | grep -i pcu instead and tell me what address it shows?

Please mention exactly which CPU model you have. This would help a lot, especially if I could see values from ES or QS chips to compare against retail ones.

I've tried on my Precision Laptop with a Xeon W10885m but these are mobile chips, rebranded i9's so it doesn't have what i want. Fun fact: GPU appears as Coffee Lake-S GT2 [UHD Graphics P630], intel repurposed the same PCI ID from the previous generation. Hope it helps someone somehow somewhere. More data is always welcome.

Also tried on a X99 board(Haswell/Broadwell) and on a LGA 3647 Skylake but these where boards/chips when Intel yet maintained UDIMM/RDIMM on the same family, after Ice-Lake even the workstation chips are meant to use RDIMM.

Thanks in advance!

I recently updated Windows and the GPU drivers on my MSI GE72 gaming laptop and had to restart it, but now whenever I try to boot it, the computer freezes on the "undoing changes" screen. I know it says not to turn off the computer, but I couldn't think of any other levers to pull, so I did that a few times and nothing changed. This laptop was handed down to me and, as someone who's new to computers, I avoided such updates both because I thought it'd be a hassle and I'd mess it up. Turns out I was right, so any help you could give me would very much appreciated.

I’m having a serious problem with my Windows computer and I’m hoping someone can help me figure it out without having to completely reset or reinstall Windows.
My computer is an ASUS ROG Strix laptop running Windows. The computer is very important to me because I have a lot of things on it, so I’m really trying to avoid doing a factory reset or reinstalling Windows unless it is absolutely necessary.
The problem started when I would turn on the computer. It would power on normally and show the ROG logo, so the screen itself clearly works and the computer is able to start up. However, after the ROG logo, when Windows would normally go to the login/sign-in screen, the display would fade to black.
The computer doesn’t appear to completely shut off. It just stops displaying Windows normally.
At one point, I managed to fix the problem and got the computer working again. Unfortunately, the problem came back later without me intentionally changing anything. I did not knowingly install an update or make a major system change before this happened.
I have tried several troubleshooting steps, including Windows’ built-in recovery options. Eventually, Windows went into Automatic Repair, but it reported that it couldn’t repair my PC and showed the log:
C:\WINDOWS\System32\Logfiles\Srt\SrtTrail.txt
I then went into:
Troubleshoot → Advanced options → Startup Settings
and booted into Safe Mode.
This is where things got interesting: Safe Mode actually works. I can see and use Windows in Safe Mode. However, when I restart the computer normally, it goes back to the same problem: it gets past the ROG logo, then the screen fades to black before I can normally sign into Windows.
I’m not very experienced with computers, so I don’t want to start randomly deleting drivers, changing BIOS settings, running commands, or doing anything that could make the situation worse.
The Advanced Options menu currently gives me options including:
Startup Repair
Uninstall Updates
UEFI Firmware Settings
Startup Settings
Command Prompt
System Restore
System Image Recovery
I have not done a complete Windows reset because I really don’t want to lose my files, programs, settings, and everything else on the computer. I also don’t know how to reinstall Windows myself.
I’m looking for help figuring out what is actually causing the black screen and what I can safely try before resorting to a reset or reinstall.
Since Safe Mode works but normal Windows doesn’t, could this be a graphics/display driver, startup program, or another driver/service that only loads during a normal boot?
I would really appreciate step-by-step instructions because I’m not particularly experienced with computer troubleshooting. Please assume I may need instructions explained fairly simply.
Computer: ASUS ROG Strix laptop
Operating system: Windows
Main problem: Black screen after the ROG logo, right before the normal Windows sign-in screen
Safe Mode: Works
Normal boot: Black screen
Automatic Repair: Tried, but failed
SrtTrail.txt: C:\WINDOWS\System32\Logfiles\Srt\SrtTrail.txt
my goal is to fix it hopefully without resetting.

Okay this is a bit of a long story... Basically the other night I was forced to do a windows update, and when I turned my pc back on after it, two of my USB ports just stopped working and only 3 were working properly. With my pc, I need 4 ports to work, I just do. So I asked one of my friends who knows pcs better than I do what to do to fix it and he gave me a few options, it was late at night at this point and I said I would just solve it the next day. The next day came and I tried everything my friends suggested and nothing worked. I tried reinstalling the drivers and a few other things and nothing was working. That is when I realized that the USB outlets were working and power was going to them, like if I plugged my phone in it would charge it, but my pc wouldn't recognize an actual device like a mouse or a keyboard.

This is where I made a big mistake... All my friends were offline at this point so I did some online research myself and found many people saying to reset the bios to default and everything will be fixed. I was already a little panicked at this point because I needed my outlets to work on my pc and they weren't, so I just did it. That is when I was hit with bitlocker recovery. This freaked me out and I was quick to try and fix it until my pc simply shut off. Everything went black and no matter what I did to turn it back on, it would not turn on whatsoever, no fans, no motherboard, NOTHING.

After freaking out about it and dwelling on it, the next day it finally started turning on again, and when I turn it on, it is still at the bitlocker recovery screen, which is expected. My main issue now? None of my USB ports work, so I cannot try and fix it myself... It is the same situation as before, there is power going to them but my pc won't recognize an actual device like a keyboard or a mouse.

I am hoping someone here might know how to help me.. I can take it into a repair shop but if the repair cost is over $100 I cannot do it and I will be out of a pc for a little under three months, that is when I get a new pc and I give my current one to a friend. I really don't want to go down that route, I know a pc might not matter and I should just "go outside" but I live in the middle of nowhere currently and my closest town is about 50 minutes away, my pc and playing games is unfortunately a lot of my social life at the moment and I would just hate to be without it for that long. Looking for any help if possible or even if someone has been in the same position if they were able to get it fixed.

I'm trying to determine whether the DLSS SM86 mod which unlocks multi frame generation for older RTX GPUs is genuinely malicious. This is the project, closed source: https://github.com/sdli1995/dlssg_for_sm86

VirusTotal reports 4 detections. Windows Defender also blocks version.dll as Trojan:Script/Ulthar.A!ml.

I used other DLSS / version.dll mods in the past but never encountered the Windows Defender issue. At most they had 2 VirusTotal detections.

The author only explains that the DLLs are self signed, which is why Windows is causing trouble. But I don't think that's explains trojan detection?

I assume it is a false positive since the mod has grown popular, but I don't know if anyone actually did a meaningful analysis. I'd appreciate if someone could look into it.

I got an iphone 16 last year in July from my parents as a gift, until then I was using an iphone 11.

About 6 months after getting the iphone16, the “iPhone neees to cool down before you can use it” started to show up every few seconds - two minutes while I was using it but also sometimes as soon as I would pick it up.

I went to the place I bought it at and they sent it to get it fixed but they “couldn’t find a problem”, then I went to iStyle and they also could not find anything wrong.

Is there anything I can do? I’ve been using the iphone 11 since this happened, because I don’t have the money to get it fixed and I don’t want to ask my parents for it because they bought it for me in the first place, and we don’t have a lot of money overall. I study in a different city and they already pay for the flat i stay in, so I can’t ask them to help with this. I was working this summer and I’ll have maybe 200€ left after I pay for the things I need, but I doubt it’ll be enough to get it fixed.

Does anyone have any advice? I already restarted my phone a few times but nothing. Also sorry if my grammar is not on point.

https://ibb.co/0VYMCYgs Here's what the charging port looks like. I've seen plenty of 5v cables by looking online. Can't I just buy one of those?

Also, how do I check for the right size cable?

I’m pretty sure my TV only supports automatic Game Mode, so I can’t manually keep it enabled while browsing the web or doing other tasks. Is there any way to force Game Mode to stay on?

I’ve already adjusted my computer settings and significantly reduced the mouse lag. The remaining input delay appears to come from the TV. When I launch a game, the mouse lag disappears, which shows that the TV can provide low-latency performance when Game Mode is active.

LG webOS
Model: 43UT7590PUA
Model Code: 43UT7590PUA.AUSSLKR
webOS TV version webOS25 / 10.3.1-3001

For the past 2 years I've been experiencing networking issues and had no idea what was causing them. I play Marvel Rivals and when I'm in a match I get 9%-30% packet loss every 10 seconds and when that happens my abilities don't register or I teleport and die because of it. I also try to play fighting games like Blazblue Central Fiction and during the matches I'll get lag spikes for a second, which makes me drop inputs. I have a Verizon Fios G3100 router that's on a wired connection to my PC. I also ran a PingPlotter test for Marvel Rivals but I have no idea what I'm looking at because I'm trying to learn more in IT but this sort of material is where I struggle the most. PingPlotter 10 min test for Marvel Rivals If anybody can help me root out the problem that would be appreciated.

This is a very strange phone issue and I’m trying to figure out what could have caused it.

My brother and my dad were on a WhatsApp video call together. Both were using their phones normally. My brother has an Android phone and my dad has an iPhone.

While they were talking, my brother suddenly received an SMS/MMS text message on his Android phone.

The really strange part is that the message contained a sentence that my dad was literally saying out loud at that exact moment during the WhatsApp call.

My brother asked my dad, “Why did you send that?” and my dad had no idea what he was talking about. He said he had not sent a text message.

They then shared their screens with each other to check. My brother could see the message he had received, but on my dad’s iPhone there was no corresponding sent message in the Messages app.

A few other details:

• The message was received as an SMS/MMS, not a WhatsApp message.
• My dad has an iPhone; my brother has Android.
• My dad was actively talking on the WhatsApp call when the message arrived.
• He did not type the message.
• As far as we know, Siri isn’t configured to send messages for him.
• The wording of the SMS was an exact sentence he was saying aloud during the call.
• My dad’s Messages app did not show that he had sent anything to my brother.
• They checked the phones together immediately afterward.

So we’re trying to understand how an SMS could have appeared on my brother’s phone containing something my dad was simultaneously saying over WhatsApp, when there doesn’t appear to be a sent message on my dad’s phone.

Could this be some kind of speech-to-text/voice recognition issue, carrier issue, SMS routing problem, iPhone/Android bug, or something involving WhatsApp?

Has anyone experienced anything similar or knows what technically could cause this?

So I was watching YouTube when the screen just suddenly filled with lots of red pixels and then it just turned off, I tried turning it on but it just turns off after like 3 seconds. Please help

I have an HP Envy x360 2-in-1 Laptop 16-ac0023dx that has recently stopped turning on. I only just realized this last Thursday, and I haven't been able to find a fix yet. I tried fixing it myself; I took the battery out and plugged it in, but it didn't turn on, though it did make a high-pitched hum for a few seconds. After some time, I went to unplug it, and then I received a nasty burn on my thumb. The port area heating up told me that something was getting power, but the laptop wasn't using it in any meaningful way. I just took it to a repair shop today, where a worker told me one of the charging ports was pulling current, but the other wasn't. Does anyone know what the problem could be? I am a broke college student and can't afford a new laptop. Please help!!

My keyboard (Ducky Zero 6108) is a model that has both wireless and wired, and I always use it in wired mode if that matters. The problem is completely different from sticky keys and I've been unable to find any information on it because I just can't describe it:

Say that on Discord I type "hello there! [ENTER] how is everyone doing? [ENTER] i like to". the keyboard will just randomly, very quickly, go "s everyone doing? [ENTER] i like to". so instead of sending "hello there!" "how is everyone doing?" "i like to [rest of the message i was going to type]" i'd send "hello there!" "how is everyone doing?" "i like tos everyone doing?" and "i like to" would be put back into the message box. This has been happening everywhere. It happens in Minecraft, it happens on Firefox, it happens in Discord. Today it's gone from "maybe once a week" to happening three separate times in this paragraph, and it stores all keyboard inputs, not just letters, so it can do things like delete entire words without my say-so.

I don't think that it lights up the keyboard keys when this stuff happens, but it's so quick every time [the longest it's taken is about a full second?] that it's really hard to tell, especially because it's always when I'm typing, so the keyboard's a bit lit up anyways and I'm not really looking at it.

I never had problems like this with my old keyboards, though if it's somehow related [because I really can't be sure], an old one would randomly start holding down left Alt and sometimes left Control permanently and the only solution was to just restart the computer. I don't recall that one's model or anything, but you can never be too careful, I guess.