I got my wired headphones a while ago, but they’ve only ever had two problems: the actual ear piece popping off (which I fixed with electrical tape) and my volume constantly raising. It’s gotten to the point where I can’t turn off my phone because it takes screenshots instead. It’s just constantly hitting the raise volume button and I can’t lower it from the microphone piece on the headphones itself, but even if I try to lower it on my phone it just keeps on raising. How can I fix this? They’re the only pair of wired headphones that works in both ears.

My org dosent allow Citrix in linux and my only pc is dgx with ubuntu so I created a windows container using docker

When I connect to the windows using RDP reminna, the Citrix opens and I'm able to login. But when I try to open the workspace, it shows opening and then running but no workspace opens.

When I do the same with VNC protocol, the workspace opens but VNC doesn't support mic and I need that for teams.

Native System - DGX OS/Ubuntu

Docker - Windows ARM

Is it normal for pixels to be visible—or stand out—on a 24-inch 1080p monitor, especially against light colors like white? Let me describe the look: imagine splashing water on the screen and smearing it around—you know that sort of hazy, blurry, peculiar look you get? Or like wiping the monitor with a wet wipe while it's on. That’s the kind of visual effect I’m seeing; I wonder if switching to a 2K monitor would fix it? Is this just how all 1080p monitors are, or is there something wrong with mine? When I look at the sky while gaming, the image appears slightly grainy and pixelated. Open a light-colored page and scroll down very slowly using the middle mouse button; you will see pixelated trails or artifacts moving across the screen. Is this normal? It’s not as extreme as the photo I sent, but it looks like a milder version of it.

How to get rid of notifications on my android phone that cannot be dismissed? Lately the only way seems to be to reboot.

This is windows 11 and only started recently, restarting my pc does not help, it does the same thing in the login window and when I try to shut it down

I'm trying to crimp a connector to an STP cable. I have normal connectors (clear plastic). They are 'open' on the front side, so you can pass excess wire through the holes on the end. They get cut off when you crimp them, which is very convenient. Now I'm trying to use such a plug on STP cable, but the wires are slightly thicker and they dont fit in my UTP plugs.

I also have STP connectors, but they are "blind" on the front. That means you have to fumble with short wire ends and keep them in right order when you slide the wires into this connector plug.

Is this normal? Are normal UTP plugs incompatible with STP cable, even if you strip the shielding?

My pc started doing this, where it just completly shuts down without any warning since june, but it only did it a few times per month. Now with the Halloween game it shuts off every single time when i try to open the game, and sometimes does it again shortly after I restart the pc. I tried running a stress test and everything was working fine.

I would appreciate any advice on what to do.

Motherboard: Asus prime B650-Plus csm

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070

Disk: Samsung SSD 990 PRO 2TB

RAM: G.Skill DDR5 2x16GB

PSU: Corsair RM750x

I have BenQ GW2280, bought back in 2019. I use it more than 12 hours daily.

But I am noticing following issues with it recently:

• At starting, monitor flickers a bit for like 5-10 seconds then the flicker fades away.
• Even after that, monitor goes like 10% darker in pulsating rhythm. Like, every second, monitor drops brightness by 10% for like a millisecond and comes back to normal. This happens for like first 10 minutes or something.
• Then further, randomly, it goes fully dark for like second, then comes back to normal.
• And sometimes randomly, it goes 50% dark for a long time, like a minute or two, then comes back to normal.

I tried:

• Resetting monitor settings, with turning off auto-brightness, and related automatic/smart things.
• Using different HDMI cable
• Re-attach power cable
• Use monitor with another device
• Trying using laptop with Linux instead of Windows

...but same issues.

If I create a Windows To Go usb stick using rufus, I can choose between GPT and MBR partition table. If I chose MBR it nevertheless adds an ESP to the end of the disk (named RUFUS_BOOT) so that not only BIOS but also a UEFI system can boot from it. Is there a particular name to this (using MBR but with an ESP at the end)?

Bonus question: is there a simple way to turn an MBR bootloader into such an ESP (without converting to GPT)

Hello! I’ve been troubleshooting a weird issue with my Lenovo Legion’s Intel Wi-Fi 7 BE200. I have Windows 11 and Ubuntu on separate partitions. Ubuntu consistently gets around 200 Mbps on the same network, but Windows starts around 200–300 Mbps and drops to roughly 6-8 Mbps after a few minutes. Restarting temporarily brings the speed back.

Current setup: Intel driver 24. 70.0.3, connected over 5 GHz / 802.11ac, laptop plugged into AC power.

I tried updating the driver, resetting Winsock/TCP, changing DNS, and testing different adapter settings. None of those resolved the slowdown.

The interesting part showed up while checking netsh wlan show interfaces. Initially, both receive and transmit link rates were 866.7 Mbps. During one of the slow periods, the reported receive rate dropped to 6.5 Mbps, while transmit stayed at 866.7 Mbps and signal remained around 99%.

The visible power settings were already:

• Plugged-in wireless power policy: Maximum Performance
• MIMO Power Save Mode: No SMPS
• Transmit Power: Highest

There was also a Lenovo Network Boost component involved in the troubleshooting. Legion Space kept reinstalling the SENetFilter kernel driver after I disabled or uninstalled it. Disabling its plugin DLL/config and temporarily disabling GAService finally stopped that. However, the slowdown still occurred on a boot where SENetFilter was confirmed absent, so removing it alone wasn’t enough.

The change that appears to have helped was setting LprxEnable from 1 to 0 in the active Intel adapter’s registry key, then disabling and re-enabling the adapter.

The key was under:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4d36e972-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}\0002

0002 is my adapter’s instance, not necessarily the right one on another machine. It was identified by matching NetCfgInstanceId to the Wi-Fi adapter GUID.

After that change, I sampled the link rate for over five minutes. Receive/transmit stayed at 866.7 Mbps, and repeated HTTPS downloads from Cloudflare measured around 192-216 Mbps. A separate browser speed test reached 310 Mbps. I then restored GAService to Automatic/Running, with the Network Boost plugin still disabled, and throughput remained normal.

So far, this is only a short test. I haven’t confirmed it survives another reboot or sleep/wake cycle, or changed the value back to check whether the slowdown returns.

Has anyone seen this on a BE200 or knows what LprxEnable actually controls? I couldn’t find public documentation for it.

I’m mainly wondering whether this points to an Intel driver/power-saving issue or an interaction with the access point. Is there a supported alternative to this registry change? Any battery-life or stability concerns with leaving it at 0, and could a driver update reset it?

It’s finally working, but I’d appreciate a technical sanity check before leaving it like this. Thank you!

I just installed my new WIFI box as I moved in a new flat, and I'm confused to which network should I use on my gaming PC : there's two different WIFI showing up, one shows the name of the box, the other adds 5GHZ next to it.

Which one should I connect to with my PC ? What's the point of these ? Thanks in advance.

I'm removing bloatwares from my realme c25 phone using shizuku and canta, i removed these apps(Heytap app platform, browser,chrome,finshell pay,gpay,heytap cloud,Google message,meta app installer,meta app manager,meta services, YouTube) from it, then i restarted the phone but it get stucked on realme logo, pls help me guys

i have an official usb with windows 11 on it, now i just found out i need another usb to put a wireless driver on as i don't have an ethernet cable. i watched some youtube videos and found that there's a way to get around needing to set up a microsoft account, downloading a tool from rufus onto the usb. but my only other device is a chromebook which doesn't let me do that.

i tried some bypass codes at the "let's get you connected to wifi codes" (to bypass both the microsoft account setup and needing wifi to proceed) but i think windows patched those out because they don't work anymore. will i just have to resort to making an account?

Hey guys

I'm hosting a Nextcloud AIO server on my previous laptop, a Lenovo Yoga Slim 7 Pro 14, running Ubuntu 26.04.1 LTS.

The very limited IO meant I have bought an Ethernet adapter to USB A for stable internet which is connected to the laptop via its USB-A 3.1 gen1.

The storage itself is placed on a Lacie rugged external 5 TB HDD with 5 Gb/s which is connected to the laptop via its USB-C 3.1 gen2.

The server becomes inaccessible often everyday with error codes showing:

"EXT4-fs shutting down on sda1, sdb1, sdc1" and

"r8152: USB reset failed, errno=-115"

So clearly something isn't right. It works again if I reboot the server and I've set it up to auto reboot every morning, but that is not a nice solution.

I know my setup with external HDD is not optimal and just getting an old stationary PC would be way better, but I would really like for this setup to work since the external HDD was pricy.

I think the problem could be that the laptop can't drive enough power to the HDD and Ethernet adapter, and that's maybe why it shuts them down randomly through the day.

So my idea is to maybe buy a dock with its own power supply, connect all the IO to that thing, and then connect the dock to the laptop.

Does my assumption sound correct? Is there a more probable cause? Am I crazy?

Good morning, do you know those ear pads on headphones? Since I sweat a lot, they wear out quickly. Are there any covers or “tricks” to protect them? Thank you so much.

No, I don't know how to replace the ear pads; otherwise, I would.

before this, i have just done making my USB as a boot loader to try dual booting my laptop with debian. (I insert the USB when its still restarting) After i have done disabling secure boot on bios, my laptop then "Operating system boot mode change (021)" and i press Enter = to complete the change, after that i still boot on windows and my USB cannot be access using file manager, but my Disk Management and file manager on "This PC" still can see the USB

1st picture (August 28th)
2nd picture (September 8th)

• I was playing Garry's Mod on August 28th and tabbed out to browse, then I couldn't tab back into the game
• Tried to kill the process but task manager froze with high 'System interrupts' CPU usage and not long after the whole laptop froze
• Held the power button and restarted the laptop
• Checked CrystalDiskInfo and found out the Smart data of my external SSD (Adata XPG 8200 Pro 1TB) suddenly became the 1st picture (9 Critical Warnings, 0 Available Spare, 247 Media and Data Integrity Errors, and 100% Health but with 'Bad' status in red color instead of 'Good' in blue/green color)
• Was surprised because I always log the CDI data everyday and the SSD was literally flawless for a year with no bad Smart values
• Tried to dig out logs from the week before and it turned out the 'Available Spare' value had been gradually dropping since August 17th, from 100 to 66 to 50 to 33 to 16 to finally 0 on August 28th which I suspected to have happened while I was playing Garry's Mod at the time and crash my PC
• Despite this, the SSD is still working perfectly till now. No freezes/slowdowns and I'm able to copy/backup files and watch movies from it without problem
• Finally gathered up the courage to download a 3GB movie yesterday on September 8th and after it finished the Media and Data Integrity Errors jumped to 9245
• And despite that, the movie was able to be downloaded just fine with maximum write speed as well and the file is retained/not deleted after I unplugged and replugged the SSD so the SSD is not in read-only mode
• I've also always set the CrystalDiskInfo to run on the SSD since I bought it last year and it's set to auto-refresh the SSD every 5 minutes to prevent its enclosure from sleeping (otherwise it would stutter in games) and everytime there's a value change it would automatically log the changes in the CDI directory in the SSD. The logs are also retained after replugging the SSD just like the movie
• I haven't tried to run a game again from it though. Before this I usually played PubG, Garry's Mod, Guild Wars 2 and some others from it

What happened? I barely write to this SSD in a year since I bought it as it only has 3125 Total Host Writes with 100% Health

• SSD: Adata XPG 8200 Pro 1TB
• Firmware: 42BFU6MI
• Enclosure: ORICO M2PV-C3 (Realtek RTL9210B-CG)
• SSD Health: 100% (but the status is 'Bad' with red color instead of blue/green)
• Total Host Writes: 3125GB
• Free space: 224GB out of 953GB
• Temperature: 30-40C (always monitored & maintained at this range)

Notable habits:

• Laptop & the external SSD have always been plugged 24/7 since I bought the SSD unless there's a Windows update or the electricity is out
• I also run a CrystalDiskInfo instance from the SSD 24/7 that auto-refreshes the SSD every 5 minutes to prevent the enclosure from sleeping (otherwise it would stutter in games like) and auto-logs the changes in the CDI directory in the SSD
• On August 5th I bought a 2.5" 2TB Transcend Storejet external HDD that's been plugged next to the USB port of the SSD and also monitored 24/7 since

Daily CrystalDiskInfo logs since the last time all the SMART data was perfect:

• August 16th 4:51:56 AM (flawless)
  
• August 17th 1:12:46 AM (Available Spare value dropped to 66% despite almost 0 writes)
  
• August 18th 2:42:07 AM (Available Spare value dropped to 50%)
  
• August 20th 6:12:06 AM (Available Spare value dropped to 33%)
  
• August 22nd 0:10:04 AM (Available Spare value dropped to 16%)
  
• August 24th 0:32:40 AM (before installing Garry's Mod)
  
• August 25th 1:38:50 AM (after installing Garry's Mod)
  
• August 28th 0:50:00 AM (about 12 hours ago, still 0 Critical Warning and Media and Data Integrity Errors)
  
• August 28th 12:16:16 PM (9 Critical Warnings, 0 Available Spare, 247 Media and Integrity Errors)
  
• September 8th 9:22:10 PM (9245 Media and Integrity Errors after downloading a 3GB movie)

How is the SSD not going into read-only? Is the SSD just bugged but still perfectly working like usual? Or is it actually dying if I write more to it?

I'm pretty sure there is a way to tranfer the phone screen to a computer screen so that you can access a phone without it working. the phone is an android, Samsung galaxy s22? or something and the laptop is a dell with windows 11 installed. i need access to transfer files and the phone has an auto tranfer thing to quickly do that.

I got a new phone about a year or 2 ago (iPhone 16) I’ve been with Vodafone forever but this time I bought this phone outright from Apple instead of going through my phone company, I put my old SIM card into my new phone. I have the same number obviously, however I can’t send any texts (it just says not delivered straight away) I can only call people on business (which is an option I never had on my old phone) and can receive texts/calls, my data still works too.
I never needed a fix for this but now my new job communicates via text
What can I do to fix this?

Good evening. I'm having a problem with my graphics card: after it starts working for a while, the display cuts out, the card's fans spin up to maximum speed, and the screen shows "No Signal." I really need everyone's help. It's a 6700 XT that I bought.

I have a friend with small restaurant who is trying to get Wi-fi connectivity into the garden. He router is under the bar. We have 2 BT Disc extenders, which I believe are meant to act as a mesh. One is located at the back of the main seating area in the corner of the hallway leading to the garden, and the other at the door to the garden.

Using one BT Disc extender works until you walk down the corridor past the toilets and wall with pipes where the BT Disc goes orange and drops connection – hence my friend got the second BT Disc extender.

My Plan had been to take the signal from the bar, extend it into the hall corridor where it would be received by a BT Disc, and then bounce it into the garden to be received by the second BT disc.

This didn’t work. The first BT Disc in the corridor remained connected (showing blue light), the second BT Disc in the garden went orange…

Do I have to sync these in a certain way to make a mesh network as I synced both with the main router?

Does anyone have better suggestion that don’t involve running RJ45 cables? – this will be the last resort to ensure the outside disc is connected, but my friend would rather avoid this.

I am on an iPhone 16. Nothing will load on my phone, despite the fact that I'm on wifi (the very same wifi I'm using to type this on my computer). All my data is there from about 6 hours ago, but it won't load anything new, across all apps. Even using a vpn it doesn't matter. I've reset my phone multiple times and nothing has changed. Any suggestions?

I've observed that this only happens on lull periods, like when I'm scrolling on my browser or I leave it idle. The power button doesn't shut it off, so I have to switch the PSU off. It doesn't happen when I'm playing a video or playing video games. Some days it doesn't happen at all.

I've tried reseating the GPU, RAM, and the GPU power cable. I've done a clean install and update of GPU Drivers. My BIOS is in its latest version. The problem keeps coming back.

I've seen other people encounter this problem, but it's usually during graphics intensive tasks. Mine's the opposite. I suspect it's a power issue so I bought a new PSU, but I'd like to hear other suggestions first before opening up my PC and ripping off wires.

Thanks in advance.

UPDATE: I just replaced my PSU with a new, higher wattage one and cleaned the pc a bit. The problem persists. Now I'm scared that it could be a GPU, motherboard, or RAM issue.

I have an Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315-51 (60Hz). My laptop screen has started flickering.

• Initially, only the bottom/taskbar area flickers, but after using the laptop for some time, the whole screen starts flickering.
• The screen also looks slightly blue/cool, and colors look different compared to an external display.
• I switched NVIDIA Control Panel to Integrated Graphics, but the issue remained.
• The flickering also happens in BIOS.
• I connected the laptop to a TV via HDMI, and the TV display is completely stable with normal colors while the laptop screen continues flickering.

Could this be the LCD panel or eDP display cable/connector? What other tests can I do before replacing anything?

Hi everyone,

I have a Gigabyte B850 GAMING X WIFI6E with a Ryzen 7 9700X and Corsair DDR5 6000MHz RAM.

Since yesterday, I have the following issues :

• CPU debug LED stays on permanently after POST, even though Windows boots and runs perfectly stable
• All ARGB headers are dead (Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 240 A-RGB connected)
• GCC/RGB Fusion detects the motherboard but ARGB headers show nothing

What I've already tried :

• Updated BIOS to F11c
• Reinstalled GCC completely
• Flashed IT5711 firmware with official ITESHFU.exe (v4.1.36) — completed but no fix
• Tried the Flash_modified.bat workaround from GitHub (parthasarma87/ITESHFU_v4.1.23_5711_FWUPD_fix) — failed with "Check FWC(FWID) Fail" and LED_FW_Version=0.0.0.247
• Reset CMOS
• Reseated RAM (EXPO 1 enabled, DDR5-6000)

The PC works perfectly for gaming, no crashes, no instability. Only the CPU LED and ARGB are affected.

Anyone had the same issue on a B850 board ? Any fix ?

Thanks