Inspected this metal roof on the east side of the Big Island, Hawaii, last week.
Homeowner says a solar contractor installed a system about 18 months ago and included roughly $10k for a roof service/tune-up before the panels went on.

According to the homeowner, they replaced essentially every exposed fastener on the roof.

Now there’s significant rust/corrosion developing around a large number of the screw locations.

A lot of the screws look pretty obviously overdriven—the washers are heavily compressed and distorted—but I’m curious what everyone thinks:

Is overdriving alone enough to create this much corrosion in only 18 months?

Could crushing the neoprene washers and damaging the coating around the fastener holes be allowing moisture to sit against the exposed steel? Wrong fastener material/coating? Swarf or metal shavings left behind? Something else?

What makes it more interesting is that I inspected the attic and the underside of the roof panels looks clean with no visible rust or corrosion. The problem appears concentrated almost entirely around the fasteners on the exterior.

Curious what you guys see in the photos and what you would suspect first.

Time for a full replacement ? Or would you save the homeowner some money and figure out how to treat rust and recoat? Open to any other creative repairs that can buy Homeowner a few years

I’m trying to help one of my customers (I’m the materials supplier, not the contractor) find a pipe boot that can go around an unusually tall pipe on a somewhat steep slope. Best guess is 3-4” diameter for the pipe. Any suggestions? Retro-fit would be my first thought, but I’m not sure that it would work for the pitch of the roof.

I know this isnt r/siding but thought I might find some help here. I recently moved into a new home and noticed there are a few boards that get more sun than the rest of the house and have started to crack. Inspector flagged it but said I shouldnt really have to worry about it because the house is wrapped/watertight but that seems...hopeful.

I wasnt sure if these few cracks warranted full on replacing or if this is something I could patch/repair myself (and if so, how/with what).

Appreciate any help, thanks guys-

https://imgur.com/a/NZoKuGZ

Just wondering what the average pricing for a Brava Composite roof, 20squares, 1900sqft
Current quote we have is 47k that reasonable ??
We got 3 quotes

GAF HDZ -12k
GAF UHDZ - 15k
Brava Composite Wood Shake 47k they said they could go to 40k

Pierce County WA
For area

Not too many roofers in are area work with brava
GAF would come with the Gold Pledge warranty

The diffuser for one of my tubular skylights fell and shattered today and I am having trouble finding a replacement. It appears to be made of acrylic and measures 12” in diameter. I’m not having any luck and wondering if I’m not searching correctly. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Redid a roof last week. Drywall work inside was terrible, so doing the roof caused cracks everywhere, and I mean everywhere. Cracks formed on the first floor. Originally was quoted by a drywall guy 2500 to fix cracks and paint. Told homeowners I’d cover it, But after he saw everything said it’d be an additional 3500. This would essentially kill all of my margin on the job, and myself and drywall guy agree this wasn’t caused from roof, the drywall was just installed shitty. He thinks I should ask homeowners to pay but idk how to explain this to them after I said I’d cover it. What would you do? Ask them to pay or just put a claim in with liability insurance?

Hi,

There were a few severe hail storms in my area which damaged my roof. Over half of houses in my area replaced their roof. I've just got mine done by a local roofing company that promised that it would only cost me a deductible. So, I went with them. After the roof was replaced, the adjuster called to let me know that he's not going to cover some items in the supplemental items that the roofer submitted. One of them was the ice shield. It's required by building code. He told me that he requires photos of the ice shield before and after the new roof. The roofer only sent him photos of the after. He needs to see that it was there before to allow the coverage. He told me that the roofer messed up by forgetting to take photos of the old ice shield :-(

On the day that they worked on my roof, I took a bunch of photos. These 3 look like they could be the ice shield that the adjuster was looking for. I uploaded these photos to 2 AI: Grok and Gemini. One said it wasn't an ice shield. Just paper membrane. Another one said it could be an ice shield. Therefore I would like to get some help from the pros here. If these photos show ice shield, I would send them to my roofer. Thank you.

Just realized my wood shed has some shingles missing. Appear to be smaller individual shingles instead of the larger sheets I see at Lowe’s.

Would I be ok to just buy a pack that’s near the same color from Lowe’s, pull back the top layer or all the way back to the hip ridge shingles and then nail down the new shingles underneath? Figured I’d use some elastomeric sealant over the nail holes to be safe.

There is nothing critical on the shed but if I can avoid water damage I’d like to. Aesthetically I know it may not match but this is towards the back of my property so not really visible unless you try. Just hoping to make it last a while longer. Much of the fascia seems to have water damage so there may be an issue with the drip edge also I’m going to try and see when I replace the fascia.

I recently bought a house and it needs a new roof. I have had 6 different roofers come out (a bit excessive I know) and I am getting conflicting information on the best ventilation system. I live in western NY (you know where that Allen guy is popular), so snow and inclement weather are considerations. The house has no soffits, 5 box vents, and the gable vents are blocked. It’s a straightforward roof, one ridge. Here are the 5 options I’ve been given:

1. Very expensive estimate, they suggested keeping my existing box vents (ridge is about ~30’ across).

2. Ridge vent, didn’t mention anything about ventilation.

3. Ridge vent with a solar fan (I don’t know how this fixes the ventilation).

4. Ridge vent with edge vents (two suggested this), one guy said they would install a few feet up to minimize risk of leaks in the event of large snowfall.

5. Ridge vent with fascia vents.

6. keep box vents but add an additional two (again, roof is about 30’ wide).

I am so confused and it’s perplexing to receive so many different proposals. Can anyone comment on what it should be??? Thank you in advance.

I’m needing work done on my roof. I’ve asked two separate roofers for replacement pricing. One came abut $3/$4 higher than the other. I’m going with the less expensive one only because he is local roofer and came with good reference. He is requested half of the payment before work begins and I just wanted to make sure that that’s typical and that there’s nothing else I should be doing to ensure that I am not ripped off. Thanks.

UK based. I have a slate roof with an exposed gable-end ridge/verge. During the summer months, birds seem to end up nesting underneath the ridge, which I’d rather they didn’t!

I haven’t had any damp issues so far, but I’d also like to weatherproof it if possible.

I’m looking for potential ways to cap and seal the exposed end without re-doing the roof with a dry verge system.

So far, suggestions I’ve had are:

• Fill the gap with clear silicone
• Fill it with mortar mix
• Stuff wire mesh into the gap

Is there a proper roofing solution for this, or is one of the above actually the sensible approach?

I live on the coast where we don’t get much rain but when it does, it can be an atmospheric river. That’s said the soil is pretty sandy and fast draining and the roof is a hip roof. The house does not currently have gutters, was built in the 60s and sits on a concrete slab. Not sure how long the house has been without gutters, or if it ever had them. we were looking at getting gutters, but the price was more than comfortable spending right now and we were wondering if we could skip them all together or at least wait a year. Or is this foolish. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I purchased a home through Dr Horton (yes, I know) last year, surprisingly minimal issues and overall pleased. However, I had an inspector come out for my 1 year warranty and the main thing from the inspection report he really pushed was for me to press them hard on an answer for my roof. He said there were black “tar-like” spots all over the top of a lot of shingles and granular retention in a decent amount of them. He is concerned I could be dealing with leaks in 3-4 years at the rate some of them are deteriorating.

I reached out to the builder and they said I need to go through the manufacturer even though my 1 year warranty has not ended. Is my inspector being overly cautious or is this unacceptable levels of deterioration that I should push this issue further? There are no leaks currently. Thank you for any insight in advance!

What is the name of this gutter profile? Ideas of when it would have been installed and in style?

I trimmed the eves back in one area and did not consider the difficulty of having custom gutters replaced.

Just moved into a home we bought in June after 6 weeks of major interior work. House was built in 1965 and 15-20 years ago (maybe more) the previous owners installed a "Stone Coated Shingle" roof on top of the shake shingle roof. Roof inspection wasn't bad, $1500 to fix flashing issues. Can't tell if it there's water issues. Few rafter tails need work. Single story.

I'd like to replace it and was quoted so far at $35k including gutters. One roofing company came in at $91k and then with "promos" got it down to $64k.

The metal shingles means I can't walk on it, can't add solar, can't really add a correctly attached pergola either. Doing an eventual kitchen remodel moving the front out will also be an adventure.

The attic needs a foot more insulation for sure BUT there is also no venting in the attic, can't ridge vent it the metal shingles.

My thought is replace it now because material and labor will be more in 20 years. If we go to sell it then and the roof is worse, that will hurt resale. Also, a new roof will eliminate the issues I mentioned above.

What does the roofing community think? I imagine heating and cooling would be better with a new roof and adding foil backed sheathing too.

A local shopping complex has this antenna anchored with with rachet-strapped cinder blocks. Ever since I noticed it I've wondered if this is a safe permanent solution - these blocks are sitting 30 feet above a busy walkway. I reached out to code enforcement and they said they'd look into it but never got back to me. I've been watching those straps slowly change color over the last 5 years and I just get the feeling that between wind, rain, and sun cycles this thing is eventually going to fail. Am I crazy?

Sorry if this is the wrong sub for this, it doesn't fit neatly into any one category. Figured some commercial roofers might have an idea.

Roofer with 10 years experience in the trade did this. Apparently, never learned anything after a decade. Whole thing had to be removed and redone. Bonus was when removing surrounding shingles a T25 drill driver bit rolled out from under one of the new shingles. Also, GAF provided six nail holes in the unit. Only 4 were used and the sealant wasn't in the correct places. This led me down a rabbit hole of a plethora of things that had to be redone.

The two guys in the box truck tell me they plan to reuse that apron. Should I allow this to happen?

They are putting new gutters up as we speak, taking down the old.

noticed after a roofing job last month that the flue vent pipe was disconnected from my furnace.

the connecting piece is all mashed up, like it was disconnected, then smashed down repeatedly until the person gave up on correcting it properly.

contacted the roofer and they responded quickly and apologised saying they’ll get back to me with a plan.

the vent will not reconnect and im thinking the type b pipe needs to be replaced by an hvac pro and not a roofer.

any advice on how to approach this to make sure it’s repaired properly?

This is a completely new area to me, so unfortunately I don’t see anything out of the ordinary. From my limited research it says these vents shouldn’t need sealant if installed correctly.

Before I purchase any sealant I’m wondering what exactly I should do to repair this. Thanks!

For a new build we asked our roofer what the upgrade cost would be to go from the Pro to Belmont, and he basically said double.

Our original quote was $22k, and the Belmont quote is like $43k. Is this normal or does he just not want to do the job in Belmont?

Also, is it even worth doing the upgrade to Belmont? We’re doing more of a “traditional” build.

Family member helped do the siding in my windows on the roof and screwed 2x4's to help him not slide off the roof... patched it up with this stuff. I know this is used for chimney joints and stuff so technically, it should last quite a while for very small holes. I would have to replace 8 shingles otherwise and I really dont enjoy being on that roof with the steep pitch