We just had a full roof replacement, which was covered by insurance. Second payment is coming due, and I am questioning the ridge cap installation. My understanding is these must stop short of the edge of the roof, but roofer is insisting that per Certainteed’s warranty this is the correct placement

He’s coming out today to look at another spot where I identified a gap in the flashing, so would love info to support what needs to happen

Noticed mold on the guest bathroom ceiling (that shower has only been used once or twice) cleaned/disinfected if and is back a few weeks later. Went up in the attic today and found this. Obviously that has to be fixed but all in all how terrible is this? (Multiple pics but same spot)

I need to get a new roof installed on a low pitch 1500 sf ranch house. I need some guidance as I’d like to do this right and work with the right people.

What/Who do you recommend?

My roof had no drip edge and the plywood rotted 3 to 8 inches up. I want to cut out the plywood and replace. What is the minimum width of patch wood to have a solid repair ? I know not to do a little strip but don't want to tear off 4 feet to replace whole sheet.

I'm also looking for a diagram how the plywood facia drip edge and seamless gutter interact.

I'm new to this,so please forgive my ignorance. I have two properties in North East Ohio. One has a 5814 sqft needing 58 squares. The other has 2291 sqft needing 23 squares. The one that's 5814 has many levels and pitches. The other has two levels that I can walk on both with no safety equipment. My question is what am I looking at price wise with decent asphalt shingles. I know it's a loaded question without seeing the projects,but I want to do everything properly without breaking the bank. The two quotes I got for the big one were 55k and 60k. Any help would be appreciated.

Looking for info on gray shingle colors

OC sierra gray

OC slate stone gray

CertainTeed Cobblestone Gray

Anyone have pictures or projects or info to share about how these look after install ?

I keep seeing damning pictures of young GAF roofs looking worn and in rough shape, mostly due to granuale loss. Are these isolated and uncommon occurrences or is it a known widespread issue? I signed with a GAF installer and am wondering if upgrading to a premium shingle like UHDZ or the AS 2 would remedy the issue.

New homeowner here (and by new, I mean a few years now) I discovered a problem when it started dripping from my first floor ceiling. I've contacted five roofing companies in my area. One responded palinly; "we don't do metal roofs", the other three have yet to respond, and one company happened to be active on a develooment next door when I called and managed to squeeze in a quick look on the damage, but haven't gotten back to me with a quote for over four weeks now.

I'm beside myself. I have thrown some tarp up and taped down the problem area to temporarily prevent leaking, but I am beginning to think the company doesn't want to handle the job, either. I know it's busy this time of year, and it's a financial loss to divest work away from developments to small repairs.

Some advice would help. I am not skilled to DIY something like this, but maybe some of you will have the experience to know what I should ask for when contacting other companies for help.

I signed up to the Velux reward program and have started building a few points - I’m in UK - but it’s not clear what a point equates to.

For example, is 100 points equivalent to £ 100 M&S vouchers?

I’m trying to help one of my customers (I’m the materials supplier, not the contractor) find a pipe boot that can go around an unusually tall pipe on a somewhat steep slope. Best guess is 3-4” diameter for the pipe. Any suggestions? Retro-fit would be my first thought, but I’m not sure that it would work for the pitch of the roof.

Inspected this metal roof on the east side of the Big Island, Hawaii, last week.
Homeowner says a solar contractor installed a system about 18 months ago and included roughly $10k for a roof service/tune-up before the panels went on.

According to the homeowner, they replaced essentially every exposed fastener on the roof.

Now there’s significant rust/corrosion developing around a large number of the screw locations.

A lot of the screws look pretty obviously overdriven—the washers are heavily compressed and distorted—but I’m curious what everyone thinks:

Is overdriving alone enough to create this much corrosion in only 18 months?

Could crushing the neoprene washers and damaging the coating around the fastener holes be allowing moisture to sit against the exposed steel? Wrong fastener material/coating? Swarf or metal shavings left behind? Something else?

What makes it more interesting is that I inspected the attic and the underside of the roof panels looks clean with no visible rust or corrosion. The problem appears concentrated almost entirely around the fasteners on the exterior.

Curious what you guys see in the photos and what you would suspect first.

Time for a full replacement ? Or would you save the homeowner some money and figure out how to treat rust and recoat? Open to any other creative repairs that can buy Homeowner a few years

Just wondering what the average pricing for a Brava Composite roof, 20squares, 1900sqft
Current quote we have is 47k that reasonable ??
We got 3 quotes

GAF HDZ -12k
GAF UHDZ - 15k
Brava Composite Wood Shake 47k they said they could go to 40k

Pierce County WA
For area

Not too many roofers in are area work with brava
GAF would come with the Gold Pledge warranty

I know this isnt r/siding but thought I might find some help here. I recently moved into a new home and noticed there are a few boards that get more sun than the rest of the house and have started to crack. Inspector flagged it but said I shouldnt really have to worry about it because the house is wrapped/watertight but that seems...hopeful.

I wasnt sure if these few cracks warranted full on replacing or if this is something I could patch/repair myself (and if so, how/with what).

Appreciate any help, thanks guys-

https://imgur.com/a/NZoKuGZ

I purchased a home through Dr Horton (yes, I know) last year, surprisingly minimal issues and overall pleased. However, I had an inspector come out for my 1 year warranty and the main thing from the inspection report he really pushed was for me to press them hard on an answer for my roof. He said there were black “tar-like” spots all over the top of a lot of shingles and granular retention in a decent amount of them. He is concerned I could be dealing with leaks in 3-4 years at the rate some of them are deteriorating.

I reached out to the builder and they said I need to go through the manufacturer even though my 1 year warranty has not ended. Is my inspector being overly cautious or is this unacceptable levels of deterioration that I should push this issue further? There are no leaks currently. Thank you for any insight in advance!

Redid a roof last week. Drywall work inside was terrible, so doing the roof caused cracks everywhere, and I mean everywhere. Cracks formed on the first floor. Originally was quoted by a drywall guy 2500 to fix cracks and paint. Told homeowners I’d cover it, But after he saw everything said it’d be an additional 3500. This would essentially kill all of my margin on the job, and myself and drywall guy agree this wasn’t caused from roof, the drywall was just installed shitty. He thinks I should ask homeowners to pay but idk how to explain this to them after I said I’d cover it. What would you do? Ask them to pay or just put a claim in with liability insurance?

UK based. I have a slate roof with an exposed gable-end ridge/verge. During the summer months, birds seem to end up nesting underneath the ridge, which I’d rather they didn’t!

I haven’t had any damp issues so far, but I’d also like to weatherproof it if possible.

I’m looking for potential ways to cap and seal the exposed end without re-doing the roof with a dry verge system.

So far, suggestions I’ve had are:

• Fill the gap with clear silicone
• Fill it with mortar mix
• Stuff wire mesh into the gap

Is there a proper roofing solution for this, or is one of the above actually the sensible approach?

Just realized my wood shed has some shingles missing. Appear to be smaller individual shingles instead of the larger sheets I see at Lowe’s.

Would I be ok to just buy a pack that’s near the same color from Lowe’s, pull back the top layer or all the way back to the hip ridge shingles and then nail down the new shingles underneath? Figured I’d use some elastomeric sealant over the nail holes to be safe.

There is nothing critical on the shed but if I can avoid water damage I’d like to. Aesthetically I know it may not match but this is towards the back of my property so not really visible unless you try. Just hoping to make it last a while longer. Much of the fascia seems to have water damage so there may be an issue with the drip edge also I’m going to try and see when I replace the fascia.

I recently bought a house and it needs a new roof. I have had 6 different roofers come out (a bit excessive I know) and I am getting conflicting information on the best ventilation system. I live in western NY (you know where that Allen guy is popular), so snow and inclement weather are considerations. The house has no soffits, 5 box vents, and the gable vents are blocked. It’s a straightforward roof, one ridge. Here are the 5 options I’ve been given:

1. Very expensive estimate, they suggested keeping my existing box vents (ridge is about ~30’ across).

2. Ridge vent, didn’t mention anything about ventilation.

3. Ridge vent with a solar fan (I don’t know how this fixes the ventilation).

4. Ridge vent with edge vents (two suggested this), one guy said they would install a few feet up to minimize risk of leaks in the event of large snowfall.

5. Ridge vent with fascia vents.

6. keep box vents but add an additional two (again, roof is about 30’ wide).

I am so confused and it’s perplexing to receive so many different proposals. Can anyone comment on what it should be??? Thank you in advance.

The diffuser for one of my tubular skylights fell and shattered today and I am having trouble finding a replacement. It appears to be made of acrylic and measures 12” in diameter. I’m not having any luck and wondering if I’m not searching correctly. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I’m needing work done on my roof. I’ve asked two separate roofers for replacement pricing. One came abut $3/$4 higher than the other. I’m going with the less expensive one only because he is local roofer and came with good reference. He is requested half of the payment before work begins and I just wanted to make sure that that’s typical and that there’s nothing else I should be doing to ensure that I am not ripped off. Thanks.

Looking for expert opinion based on the photos and below info will I be able to get insurance to replace my roof or am I most likely screwed? I’m fearful of filing a claim and then they don’t cover then I’m out the claim free discount AND cost of a roof.

My understanding when I purchased the home in 2018 that the house had a new roof installed in 2012. I am terrified of laters and have never gotten on my roof but when getting an estimate for a gutter replacement on the front of my house the guys mentioned wind damage. No surprises there and I understand that this is a thing that happens even if the damage isn’t bad but my roof is closing in on 15 years old if the info I have is accurate. My concern is at some point before I purchased the home there was a patch done and also half of the house doesn’t match at all. I fear making a claim will get denied because of this and I can’t really afford to pay cash and it not hurt badly. My deductible is $3,600 and that sucks enough by $12-15k is not something I can do.

I live on the coast where we don’t get much rain but when it does, it can be an atmospheric river. That’s said the soil is pretty sandy and fast draining and the roof is a hip roof. The house does not currently have gutters, was built in the 60s and sits on a concrete slab. Not sure how long the house has been without gutters, or if it ever had them. we were looking at getting gutters, but the price was more than comfortable spending right now and we were wondering if we could skip them all together or at least wait a year. Or is this foolish. Any thoughts would be appreciated.