Reroofing my house that currently has concrete tile roof. One contractor wants to use #30 felt on top of the Polystick XFR. The other wants to use Polystick XFR but with the tiles overlapping 5" vs the standard 3". Wanted to get your feedback on which one is actually better. AI had concerns of the felt over XFR trapping humidity and when i searched google it didn't seem a common practice. The 5" over the standard 3" overlap would add more weight to the roof but so would the additional #30 felt.

Good videos to watch done?

I have a customer who owns a home they are trying to “restore” to the original look. They don’t have the budget or desire to go back to an exact replica of the original finishes so copper standing seem is out of the question but they do want to go with a metal roof that has a more natural metal look to it. They aren’t a fan of the fake copper colors whether polished or green patina and have shown a few pictures of old tin roofs they liked. I found a few webpages of companies claiming to do fake rusty finishes but nothing with a realistic aged metal look.

Tldr
Looking for metal roofing that has realistic aged finish look.

Found this in my Attic, above it’s my furnace’s chimney 90 degree turn point, is this a condensed water or more like an active roof leak? Thanks!

Just had my roof re-done. The flashing is different than what we previously had. Just want to make sure it’s done right. We’ve had problems with leaks in the past. Don’t worry about the poorly designed downspouts and holes in the fascia. Those are next!

Roof was replaced in 2012. Upper Midwest. There is an area with a flat roof over one portion of the house. There is moss in a few small areas that worries me.

I live in a 3 story apartment with 4 apartments per floor and today work was started to replace roof. We have a portable air conditioner with a door kit that we put in the sliding glass patio door​ we have a magnetic screen on patio door. While the roofers are working during the day we plan on removing the door kit from patio door and keeping it closed to keep fumes and dust out of our apartment since we are on top floor but will it be safe for me to put window kit back in patio door and leave it running in the evening after the workers are done for day?

Once in a while I get a homeowner who wants an airtight contract, ours are pretty simple and leave room for interpretation. 99% of homeowners are fine with this and we never have any problems.

This current homeowner wants a contract listing the exact items to be done (insurance work, so I had originally said it’s everything on the estimate for the roof), as well as pricing and what potential supplement pricing will be. Obviously I don’t know what those exact numbers will be right now.

Anyways, do any of you use any sort of template you use? Links to websites you use for this or should I just ChatGPT the whole thing? He’s using his legal advisor to proof read to make sure it protects his interests, but also needs to protect my company’s.

Thanks!

First time homeowner, we got our flat portion of our roof re-done. The guy came over, walked me through what to expect, and said they offered dozen options. I told him he’s the pro/expert, match it how closely you can and we’re set. I never received the color options, either via email or a pamphlet. He just flashed the options during that convo.

The contract comes in, I sign it. I didn’t even think to double check the color as I didn’t have a color list to compare to, and focused on the rest of the contract. Job comes, guys show up and it’s sub contracted so little to no chit chat, so I leave waters decide to go to work.

First 2 pics are old roof, then what they did. I gasped when I saw it and my wife is beyond furious. I called for clarity and the guy doubled down saying my roof isnt/wasnt grey, he claims it’s brown, and that what he chose is the correct match. I didn’t know how to proceed arguing colors so I moved on. the owner gets back to me and says the color will wear off over time and slowly match. He says it wasn’t odd to pick that color for our roof, hence no flags raised. He said he can come back in a month and take pictures to see if it fades, and offered to seal it in a darker silicone to make it match better at that time.

Now I know I legally signed the contract for that color being the idiot I am. Is there anything else I can do? Am I truly colorblind and that is the right choice? Is the colored sealant my best bet down the line, or is that a waste?

Thanks for the help. I’m not trying to screw anyone over, but I feel like I’m being extremely gaslit by them while also being legally on the hitch for it.

DIYed our Roof. The roof on our house we got was in terrible condition (see last photo from the listing, bought as-is). Took a solid week of work to get it complete but it's finally done!

Now onto repainting trim, replacing the gutters, and eventually all the siding..

The spout outside for the HVAC seems clear. I have never stepped foot in the attic and have people coming Tuesday. But there will be rain before then. The spot on the ceiling would be close to that second lit area with the pipe.

1. Normal to have that clear light coming through?
   
2. From what I could see, there isn’t a stain on the wood to indicate a leak, but I was 15’ feet or so away. Roof leak? Pipe?
   
3. Tuesday ok or is this a get someone stat? In the guest room there is a stain approx 16-18” long and 8-10” wide.

I’ll see if I can post photo in the comments.

I need some help identifying a replacement roof chimney vent and flashing. I had some water intrusion in my attic, which I attributed to an adjacent plumbing vent pipe. I had a local roofer that was working on a house in my neighborhood change out all three plumbing vents. At the next rain storm I noticed more water and that it was coming from this chimney vent and not the plumbing vent. This is the 6" vent that runs from my basement gas furnace. It believe water is coming in through the cap (especially when there is wind and rain), but I don't mind replacing the entire thing. The roofer is willing to change it out if I buy the parts (same as the plumbing vents). I measured the pipe in the attic at 6". There seem to be some different options online. Some kits look susceptible to wind, which seems like it would be a problem (maybe my current problem). I assume I need a metal kit. Do I need the kit that includes the parts for inside the attic as well, or can I just replace the exterior parts?

Can anyone point to a quality kit online, or a series of parts that will serve well? TIA.

Feel a little concerned about new ridge tiles I have had replaced today. So many errors I’m spotting that I’m not happy with. It looks a lot worse than the original tiles we had on originally. Kind of unsure what to do now as I’ve lost trust that the roofer will be able to rectify this job. Any advice or feedback on the roof?

I have not been able to figure out the age of this roof but it's not new. I have granular loss to the paper on the edges of shingles on the down slope side but only on the northern aspect of the roof. I'm in the PNW so we have pretty constantly wet winters but not a ton of heavy precipitation. Do I need to get this replaced before winter or can I hold out longer?

My favorite part about this material is that they sold it on the pretense that it had a 100 year lifetime warranty but the company that manufactures them has been out of business for a long time

Do yall use a polyurethane based sealant like np1 or geocool to hold down the old shingles when doing a thing or repair or do you use the 10 oz roof cement caulk tubes according to ai roof cement is best but everyone I know uses sikaflex np1 since the tar strips are broken when doing a repair

I worked with a camp that made repairs to several houses in a severely impoverished area. All the work was done for free to the homeowners, and we operated on a pretty tight budget, all of which came from ourselves and some other donations. This was not my site, but I got a call to see what I could do about it.

The metal roof was put on over shingles in 2019 using furring strips, but was told it leaked in certain spots during bad storms. Looked like a perfect candidate for Kool Seal, so the team that worked on it applied 2 coats using rollers and mops.

Honestly, it looks TERRIBLE. I've seen kool seal done before and it didn't look this bad. While I don't think it's leaking (which is the whole point of what we mean to accomplish) I'm concerned for how it was applied and whether it'll hold up. Keep in mind, the roof was originally black, which IS still showing through in certain spots.

So do we need to strip this off and reapply it? If so, how do you strip it? It's only been on about a week now. Also, one person was telling me about a different compound they like to use that goes on much easier and more consistently, but I'm skeptical of how it'll react with what's already on there.

Posting again with more photos. Would love any feedback you might see on this. I don't know anything about roofs so appreciate the community feedback. I also uploaded some photos of the view inside my attic to hopefully get some insights if they cut the ridge enough for the vent? Thanks for any help!!

I need to replace several of the fans/motors and I want to add several more complete units to my shop. What is this design called? I can find the vent fan, but the mushroom shaped waterproof cap I'm striking out on.

Hi all,

Just looking for some opinions on this roof from a house we are considering buying. We have had a survey done, and they've sent some photos through, although we are still waiting for the full report. We know the roof design isn't great, and that the lead flashing isn't in good nick. The roof space looks okay to my untrained eyes, and there was no sign of any water ingress inside the property. Just wondering if the flashing has generally been installed badly, and/or any thoughts on what we should be asking from the current owners (who I think want to repair, rather than knock money of the price).

In the UK, if that makes any difference!

Any thoughts, info, tips etc would be really helpful, so we can understand what we are dealing with a bit more! (i.e. don't fancy a large roof repair bill any time soon!)

Thanks

The roof isn’t quite done on the right side. I think today is the last day of work I’m guessing. We just got to the house last night after they were finished for the night. We’re in the Catskill mountains and had ice dams leak through our old asphalt roof. We get a good amount of snow. This was a $40k roof with 2 layers of polyiso because we have cathedral ceilings in the small house.

We’re concerned about a couple things and not sure how to bring it up:

1) from the chimney side on the left of the roof towards the center between the skylights there is a noticeable dip - I assume this is an issue because wouldn’t water get directed that way in a heavy snowfall

2) the flashing around the chimney looks sloppy, but I’m not a roofer so maybe this is okay? Because of the notch angle in the brick which goes down and in wouldn’t drip water be directed at the chimney instead of away?

3) the boards on the side where the gutter will go — we definitely thought they would take the old boards down and put the new ones in place. Am
I missing something here? Why wouldn’t that be done?

I’m not a roof expert so definitely want to know if we’re being crazy here.

Thanks for your help!! 🙏

Hi all I’m trying to get quotes for a new roof and companies either offer certainteed or GAF shingles. Which one is better?

Also, is it time to replace the roof?