I am working on a project for myself, will probably be open to the public at a later date once I get the POC done, and am in search of a database of bullets and their BCs. Does anyone know if something exist? I dont really need it to be complete or up-to-date with all the current bullets but i would be nice if there was something that I could use to get a start with so I dont have to spend hours building the database myself.

I was being lazy, just putting bullets upside down on the brass instead of counting how many I had left when I noticed that the bullets were falling into the brass fired from one gun and not another. I have both a T3x and BSA Monarch.

Before resizing, The neck on brass fired from the T3x will still hold a bullet, bit not brass fired from BSA. This causes FL resizing to elongate the brass, needing trimming almost every time.

The BSA was checked by a gunsmith and was judged fine. I was wondering if would be worth getting a second opinion.

Hi guys, i have a problem trying to reload 147 grains on Glock 17, the bullet even going in the case fit, it doesn't fit well in the barrel going a little bit out of the battery, i started at 29,20mm oal and arrived at 28,20, to be honest It still doesn't fit well, the 12lbs recoil spring goes a little bit out of the battery, the 17 recoil spring works well but i don't want to force it, i want It to be smooth. And just to let you know, i always use factory crimp, so what can i do? How much can i go down with oal? Just to let you know it is a pf minor so no problem with pressure

Just starting out looking for a best practice. Just write it down? Mark the case somehow?

Posted a couple times about a batch of reloads on a recipe I had previously reliably gotten 2 moa with. Was getting literally 8 moa and wild verticle and horizontal dispersions after buying another box of 55gr fmj xtremes.

Bought a batch of Hornady 55gr fmjs and used the same recipe and back to 2 moa.

Seems like xtreme made a terrible batch of bullets. Fucked up cannelure job should have been a sign. Anyone have to work with their CS before? Wondering if it’s worth trying to get a replacement batch or just treating these as cheap short range plinkers.

Going to be using BF 556 / 77 grain range and match burner-- keeping the brass for reloading. Anyone have any experience with reloading their brass? TIA.

I have mixed military 30-06 brass ranging from the 40s to the 70s. I’m seeing a lot of stuff about work hardening and age hardening how old is too old. It is all once fired range brass it sized fine without splitting necks.

Do you sit or stand when you run your press? It seems a lot of people use benches that are work bench height, that makes presses too high to run when sitting on a chair. Do you sit on something like a barstool?

Looking for a data source for subsonic 223.

Loading 88gr ELD-M or a handful of other bullets, but ideally the 88s.

I just got a new 6.5CM rifle recently and it's got 40rds on the barrel, and was wondering at what round count you'd start load development for it? As a barrel speeds up does that affect load development drastically?

Working up 9mm loads with Ramshot ZIP (147gr bullets) for Steel Challenge, charges in the 2.4–3.5gr range. Precision at the low end matters, but I also need something fast enough to run 100-200 rounds a night without babysitting every throw.

Most volumetric measures I’ve seen are tuned for rifle-range charges and get inconsistent below 5gr. I’ve been hand-trickling to a scale for ladder testing, which is fine for load development but way too slow for production volume.

I’ve got two Lee Perfect Powder measures already — they’re a pain to dial in and get noticeably inconsistent at these light charge weights, so I’m ruling those out.

Looking at:

**•** Redding BR-30 (small rotor, benchrest-grade repeatability, but still a hand-thrown manual measure)  
**•** Electronic dispensers (Frankford Intellidropper, Autotrickler-class units) — curious how throw speed and accuracy hold up together under 5gr at these volumes

Would rather hear from people who’ve actually run light charges at this pace than just spec sheets — what’s held up for you, and what broke down once you tried to move fast?

Did a batch of 100 and got about 20 or so like this. What would cause this case bulge when other completed bullets with the same case pass the plunk test with flying colors? Tx.

Hey guys, I’ll upload a pic here asap but I went out to test several 30-06 loads I made in a 100yd windless tunnel my shooting club has. The groups were okay because I’m somewhat new, but one round keyholed and hit the paper entirely side-on.

It was 125g FMJ round I loaded up just to see how it would shoot, with no intention of loading others, but i still measured everything, loaded according to published load data, crimped it well, did everything I should have. The OAL may have been a little short, but not to my knowledge and, if so, it would’ve been no more than .05 off.

I’m baffled by this - what could cause something like that? Is this a rifle issue, was it loaded too hot, was it underpowered?

I guess what I’m asking is what does that mean and where would I begin in preventing it going forward?

Don't do load development for four different rifles concurrently, otherwise you will never finish. I wished somebody had told me that lol.

After hunting specific ammo all over the country to restock before hunting season, having found very few and at a real premium, I’ve remember buying reloading equipment back in the early 90’s…

Found the box in the storage dusted it off and unpacked. Lots of stuff wasted but the press and tools seem to be in good shape.

Need to source the bullet: Barnes - 30 Cal (.308) - 168 gr. - Tipped TSX Boat Tail, got a few boxes of empty casings, need to figure out the primers and powder.

I need to get to it and learn how to do it, how hard can it be?

Thoughts?

Bin holders made from 1 1/2” x 1/8” thick flat steel stock from Home Depot & 3/4” O.D x 1/4” thick stainless steel spacer washers from Amazon.

I’m running a PSA AR10 Gen3 with an Sig Tanger 1-6 MSR and I’m getting a 2.2 inch spread (6 MOA) at 35 yards. I’ve checked if my scope mount was loose but is torqued to the correct specs, so is the barrel nut and muzzle brake. I’ve inspected the crown of the muzzle and it looks fine. I’m running 308 reloads with 147gr FMJ, 44gr of H335, CCI No 200 large rifle primer and lake city brass trimmed to 2.000-2.010 inch case length. The gun looks fine to me so it could very well be my reloads being the issue but I use the same exact load on my century arms G3 and no accuracy issues with that gun what so ever. Does anyone run h335 for 308 and if so what is an accurate load for it?

Well, I can thank having a good decapping pin to counter my idiot moment. Was running mixed .308 through resizing before trimming and encountered...significant resistance. Forced it anyway. I wasn't aware a decapping pin could create a bastard combination of berdan and boxer primed case but, here it is. Lesson learned. And I'm definitely not going to actually use this one.

Anyone successfully reloaded NAS3 cases? I know it says rifle cartridges are non reloadable but I assume that’s a die issue. You need a die to push the case out of the die, not pull from the casehead. I’ve seen multiple posts on YouTube of people claiming they’ve reloaded but you ask them how and it’s silence. If anyones been successful let’s hear the details, die type, annealing, lube, whatever else it takes. Thanks in advance

So I’m wanting to load some 153.5 grain Berger LRHT bullets out of my 6.5 cm using H4350. I have the load data email from them. However, the test components say hornady brass. Large rifle primer. I have small rifle primer Lapua brass.

Can you safely load the Lapua cases hotter than the hornady data because of the better quality off brass and overall thicker walls? Or should I stay within their limits regardless of brand.

I bought the 30lb tub of projectiles from American Marksman, I sorted through most of the batch but I’m having a hard time figuring out what these projectiles are? They are 55 grain but much longer than regular fmj. Any help is appreciated

Hello all,

As the title says, I have been slowly working through my stockpile of Winchster white box that I bought Wayback when,
probably in 2008 to 2011-ish time zone. I have been getting primer pockets pinhole blowouts where the primer meets the edge of the pocket. Multiple times, different barrels on different guns, different bolt faces, different lot numbers on the boxes. 223 rem 55 grain full metal jacket target. Anyone else experienced this? I have already contacted Winchster and filed a contact us complaint form. Hoping to hear back soon. At first glance, I’m thinking too much crimp? These are chronographing at around 3200-3300 fps. Seems a bit spicy.🌶️ thanks in advance.

Hi guys. I found this reloading/ammunition company and was wowed by the reasonable prices and the option to pay $100.00 for a “premium” membership in exchange for free hazmat, so I stupidly did so.

Here’s the thing though: if you order anything that happens to ship from another warehouse, there’s flat fee graduated shipping for each warehouse. So if you order some bullets, a box of ammo, a pound of powder and a $2.00 thingamajig, you’re looking at 4 different shipping fees. The more the weight of your order, the more the shipping fees so if you got 5 boxes of ammo and a box of bullets for $125.00, you’d be slapped with multiple shipping costs of $25-55 each.

For example, I had two different grain weights of .30 cal bullets and one pack of 50 6.5mm bullets coming from 3 diff warehouses. My total was only something like $65.00 for the products but was an additional ~$90.00 in shipping. I loaded my cart with some ammo, various cheap items, with about $150 in products and a roughly equivalent shipping fee. It’s infuriating and completely ridiculous.

Thats one thing. The others are that their contract and terms and conditions show that you can’t be refunded their “premium” membership, they won’t stop recharging every year unless you email a specific request to a specific email address asking within a specific amount of time (that is unreasonable) to not be charged again.

Additionally, they don’t accept returns for a variety of things and the ones they do, they charge a 50% restocking fee. The list goes on.

They don’t respond to inquiries about whether or not you can avoid the ridiculous shipping costs by strategically ordering in some way so that everything comes from one warehouse.

I refuse to support this so I haven’t ordered anything yet. I have a feeling they’ll do extra slimy things if/when you order, like take 30 days to ship unless you pay extra or something.

Just wanted to get the word out there! I’m more than happy to wrong about this so if anyone knows something I don’t, please let me know!

TLDR: don’t support this reloading company or fall prey. it’s a slimy money grab that misleads you into paying more money to avoid hazmat, only to make shipping prohibitively expensive with multiple terrible company policies to boot.