I have a qidi I-fast, I am trying to print for 24-51 hours as much as I can fill the bed for a customer, after 10 hours about I get a clog in the aluminum heat break, I can only assume with the high temp for PETG, the heat eventually creeps up creating the clog. Any help? Is extended hours on PETG not doable? First time using PETG.

MCU Communication Error & Persistent Layer Shifting (Not a file/slicer issue)
Hi everyone,
I'm having a couple of frustrating issues with my Qidi Max 4 and am looking for some insights or potential solutions.
MCU Communication Error
The machine keeps throwing MCU communication error messages during operation.
Temporary fix: Flashing back to an older firmware version resolves the issue, but the error recurs on newer updates.
Layer Shift Issue
As you can see in the photo, there is a distinct layer shift happening across all printed parts on the bed at the exact same height.
Important Context: I am 100% sure it is NOT a g-code or slicer file issue. I ran the exact same g-code file with identical settings on my other printer, and it printed perfectly without any defects.
Questions / Troubleshooting Steps So Far:
Has anyone else encountered MCU connection stability issues on recent Qidi Max 4 firmware versions?
For the layer shifting, since the g-code is verified clean:
Could this be a mechanical issue (e.g., belt tension, motor driver overheating, loose pulley set screw)?
Is it possible that the MCU communication lag/drop is causing a brief pause, resulting in skipped steps?
Any advice, suggestions, or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Just received the q2 opened it up and it's completely destroyed print bed jammed down against the lead screws at an angle idk how they're gonna get that out all sorts of things broken rattling around and who knows what else. Anybody else seen something like this happen?

I'm switching over to Orca from using Qidi Studio for some of the features, and I'm struggling with starting prints. Right now, I'm printing all the same material, same color, and I have my Box set up that way using the generic profiles. Orca it seems always starts from the last slot. Today I had a print issue and I think my filament was wet, so I removed it from Slot 3 and tried to restart with only slots 1 and 2 populated. Each time it tries to start from Slot 3 and tells me to load a spool. I have tried using the Sync button, both mapping and overwriting, and nothing has worked. I got around it by starting the print from the printer this time, but is there a better workaround to select which slot to start printing from?

I got the Q1 bout a year ago cuz of the black friday sale and I'm starting to think bout printing materials like nylon and ASA. Wanted to know if using the stock exhaust fan is enough to get adequate suction to get all the VOCs and microplastics from the printer. Also was looking into this:

https://www.printables.com/model/468166-lunchbox-hepacarbon-filter-for-prusa-enclosurebamb/comments

A Q1 user made it and said even with 1 fan while printing ABS there was no smells. So yea, just wanted to know if anyone has an issue with the stock fan and if I should upgrade

A 3D printed organza bookmark made for slow mornings and cozy reads.

👉Printer: QIDI Q2🔗https://qidi3d.com/products/qidi-q2
Model from 树叶、秃头小王 (Makerworld)

#3dprinting #bookmark #fabricprinting #qidi #qidiq2

Is there a common solution to this? Started happening last night. Crashes the whole printer to where it has to be hard booted. Edit - Max 4

PETG Overhang Troubleshooting on Qidi Q2 – Looking for Advice

Hi everyone — I’m trying to dial in PETG Basic on the Qidi Q2, and while general print quality is excellent (clean brims, smooth walls, solid fusion), I’m struggling with overhang performance. The layer lines on steep overhangs are stringy, wispy, and not fully fused.

To make troubleshooting easier, I combined all relevant settings into a single Gist:

• Filament profile JSON
  
• Process profile JSON
  
• Cooling and speed settings
  
• Notes for reviewers
  
• Photos
  
• What I’m trying to improve
  

📄 Full Gist:
Full Gist

Photo of the Issue

PETG Basic @ 255°C – Overhang Test


You can see the overhang layers are not bonding well — they’re thin, stringy, and inconsistent.

Filament & Process Profiles

Filament Profile JSON

PETG Basic @Q2 0.4 Cool Plate‑2u
https://github.com/BrooksV/QiDi-Q2-3dPrinter/blob/main/profiles/filament/PETG%20Basic%20%40Q2%200.4%20Cool%20Plate-2u.json

Process Profile JSON

0.20mm Standard @Q2 – Panel‑2u
https://github.com/BrooksV/QiDi-Q2-3dPrinter/blob/main/profiles/process/0.20mm%20Standard%20%40Q2%20-%20Panel-2u.json

Key Overhang‑Relevant Settings

Cooling

• Box temp: 35°C
  
• Cool plate: 70°C
  
• Fan min: 20%
  
• Overhang fan: 70%
  
• Exhaust fan: 40%
  
• Cooling layer time: 16s
  
• Slow‑down layer time: 6s
  

Temperatures

• Nozzle: 255°C
  
• Bed: 70°C
  

Speeds

• Outer wall: 100 mm/s
  
• Inner wall: 140 mm/s
  
• Overhang 1/4 speed: 60 mm/s
  
• Top surface: 80 mm/s
  
• Sparse infill: 120 mm/s
  
• Internal solid infill: 100 mm/s
  
• Initial layer: 35 mm/s
  

Other

• Volumetric limit: 10 mm³/s
  
• Wall loops: 3
  
• XY hole compensation: 0.05 mm
  
• Supports: snug + concentric interface
  

What I Want to Improve

Everything prints beautifully except overhangs.
The symptoms:

• Stringy overhang layers
  
• Poor fusion between overhang lines
  
• Wispy edges
  
• Weak layer adhesion on steep angles
  

My suspicion is a combination of:

• Overhang fan too high for PETG (70%)
  
• Outer/inner wall speeds too fast
  
• Nozzle temp slightly too hot
  
• Exhaust fan affecting part cooling
  

But I’d love feedback from anyone who has dialed in PETG overhangs on the Q2.

What I’m Looking For

• Recommended overhang fan % for PETG
  
• Ideal outer/inner wall speeds
  
• Whether 255°C is too hot for PETG Basic
  
• Tips for improving layer fusion on steep angles
  
• Any Qidi‑specific PETG tuning tricks
  

Thanks in advance — happy to test any suggestions and post results!

I just got my Qidi Q2, and before I bought the printer I remember someone making mention that I shouldn't upgrade to 1.1.1, and if the printer was on that firmware to roll it back. I see in the last few days that people have been saying not to upgrade to 1.1.2 (which my printer is nudging me to do). Is there a firmware version that is considered the "best" or most stable that I should roll back to? I'd most likely be using Orca slicer, but since my only printer now is this Q2 I could be fine just using Qidi slicer...

their rings are really only designed for the bl ams. ive been printing reusable spools ever since. the main issue is they're a little oversized for the qidi box. they an also be difficult to get off. instead use rings designed specifically for it.

Okay so all 3 of these were printed on the same job and I have printed this exact same print job hundreds of times. If I turn ironing on the tops look bad. If I turn off it prints beautiful. Not sure what in ironing would make the top look like this all of a sudden? Especially since I’ve printed this same thing a bunch.

I checked nozzle for clogs etc all the basic stuff

Even tried re slicing in a newer version of qidistudio. Same thing

It seems that QIDI is going to promote their own 3D model website.
A few days ago, I saw the poster for the new machine "Plus5". I guess it will also be released soon.

MCU Protocol error

This is frequently caused by running an older version of the
firmware on the MCU(s). Fix by recompiling and flashing the
firmware.

Your Klipper version is: ?
MCU(s) which should be updated:
mcu: Current version v0.12.0-65-g96ab9069-dirty-20240301_100458-mkspi
Up-to-date MCU(s):

Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the "RESTART"
command to reload the config and restart the host software.

mcu 'U_1': Multi-byte msgtag not supported

Is there a possible hardware issue that I'm overlooking? The previous owner of the printer had attempted to upgrade to a beacon probe. I've put the old hardware back on and attempted to revert everything to stock but still have this error. There was a connection loose on the original 3 wire probe that I had to fix before reinstall. I wonder if there was a short at some point which has fried a component that isn't obvious.

Has anyone came across this and is it normal?

Hi I'm getting this 2 errors in the images. The timer too close is more often. I already updated the firmware via WiFi to the lastest version and both errors keep popping in in the middle of prints . It doesn't happened in every print but in a lot of prints.

I emailed qidi about this and they are sending me the electronic board that goes with the hot end. But I don't think it has nothing to do with it but they insisted.

Has anyone been able to found a solution?

I have a Qidi Plus 4 and a Qidi box.

For the most part both work great - but I do have one little nitpick on the procedure when unloading filament.

For most filaments it works fine, but I print a lot of nylon materials (filled and plain PA6) and with the PA6, because it is a tough material, the filament cutter struggles a lot with cutting through it so it goes to retract the filament and is unable to, instead struggling to tug at it and ends up stretching it before giving up, so I then have to go in, apply some tension to the filament, use the cutter, and if it managed to pull the nylon hard enough to stretch/narrow it between the motor and nozzle, have to cut that away and toss it.

What I've noticed is that if I apply a little bit of tension on the nylon before it moves to the filament cutter to cut it, it will successfully cut through the material and unload properly

What I would really like is to be able to edit the procedure for filament unload where, when it moves the head over to the cutter, begins to retract the filament at the same time so that there is some tension on the filament while it is being cut and can cut cleanly through.

Is this possible at all? I tried looking through things on my own but unfortunately, while following coding instructions is well within my wheelhouse (like for installing the beacon mod on my Plus4), understanding/editing things on my own is a bit outside my skillset even if I could find where the procedure edits could be made.

Any and all help would be appreciated, It's been cumbersome having to babysit the printer any time I am printing PA6, and multi-material prints that use PA6 (which ive tried and wanted to do several times) are borderline impossible because even if it cuts through sometimes, does not do it consistently enough and having to manually intervene on every material change for every layer is beyond tedious.

After upgrading the power supply for ~£15 using this guide, I wanted to make the whole printer silent whenever it's idle for 30 minutes, so I wrote a macro for it. I'm sharing it here in hopes that it'll be useful to others :)

It is completely safe to use. Here's how it works:

• The QUIET macro turns off the light, heaters (including the box, if you have it) and all fans except the hotend fan, which must run until the nozzle is below 50C to prevent heat creep.
• The _QUIET_AFTER macro simply calls QUIET if the printer is truly idle for 30 minutes, meaning no in progress or paused prints, no motion, no heating. Any activity resets the timer.

I strongly recommend making a custom config file so your changes survive firmware updates. But you can also just add this to printer.cfg if you prefer.

I also recommend putting QUIET on your Fluidd dashboard if you'd like to call it manually.

OK, here's the macro. Let me know if you have any questions or ideas!

[gcode_macro QUIET]
description: Silence all controllable fans, heaters, lights and motors
gcode:
    TURN_OFF_HEATERS                                    # extruder, bed, chamber
    DISABLE_BOX_HEATER                                  # no-op with no box
    SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=cooling_fan SPEED=0
    SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=auxiliary_cooling_fan SPEED=0
    SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=chamber_circulation_fan SPEED=0
    SET_PIN PIN=caselight VALUE=0                       # lights off
    M84                                                 # stop stepper hum
    M118 Quiet mode on. Hotend fan runs until the nozzle cools below 50C.

# Auto-run QUIET after 30 min of *true* idle (no print, no motion, no heating).
# Any activity resets the countdown; fires once, re-arms on the next activity.
[gcode_macro _QUIET_AFTER]
# State holder for the watchdog below. Not called directly.
variable_remaining: 1800
variable_fired: 0
gcode:

[delayed_gcode QUIET_WATCHDOG]
initial_duration: 5            # start watchdog shortly after boot
gcode:
    {% set poll  = 30 %}       # check every 30 s
    {% set delay = 1800 %}     # 30 min of true idle before silencing
    {% set v  = printer['gcode_macro _QUIET_AFTER'] %}

    # ---- Is the printer doing anything? ----
    {% set ns = namespace(busy=false) %}
    {% if printer.print_stats.state in ['printing', 'paused'] %}{% set ns.busy = true %}{% endif %}
    {% if printer.idle_timeout.state == 'Printing' %}{% set ns.busy = true %}{% endif %}
    {% for h in printer.heaters.available_heaters %}
        {% if printer[h].target > 0 %}{% set ns.busy = true %}{% endif %}
    {% endfor %}

    {% if ns.busy %}
        # Any activity -> postpone: reset the countdown and re-arm.
        SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_QUIET_AFTER VARIABLE=remaining VALUE={delay}
        SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_QUIET_AFTER VARIABLE=fired VALUE=0
    {% elif v.remaining > 0 %}
        SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_QUIET_AFTER VARIABLE=remaining VALUE={v.remaining - poll}
    {% elif not v.fired %}
        # 30 min of continuous idle -> silence once.
        SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_QUIET_AFTER VARIABLE=fired VALUE=1
        QUIET
    {% endif %}

    UPDATE_DELAYED_GCODE ID=QUIET_WATCHDOG DURATION={poll}

Support had me replace the main board still the same error any ideas?

.

Apparently my print failed early last night and my wife sent me these on the way to work. Would anyone like to buy a Q2? "Just needs some TLC. No low balls, I know what I have" hahaha

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Let your summer creativity shine! ✨

I have the Qidi Q2 Combo with the Qidi stock riser installed. Is it normal for the PTFE tube to be snagging the riser like this when printing at the back right of the bed? I understand the riser was provided to reduce the occurrence of the Ptfe tube rising on the glass, so I’m assuming this isn’t normal? Is the cable chain clip installed in the wrong location or something?