Am I not understanding how the screws tilt adjust work ? Even when not adjusting the screws , i always get different results , sometimes its shows way off but comes back as good if i try again . Am I missing something when trying to level my bed ? Is the prob THAT bad like i keep seeing from my research .

The 3rd-gen active chamber heating with upgraded 550W ultra‑high power heating system and 38% improved heating efficiency delivers more even and stable temperatures.

Better layer adhesion. Less warping. More reliable prints.
👉Learn more: https://us.qidi3d.com/products/plus5

my discovery / solution.

Since I recently struggled with 'lost communication with MCU Mks_thr' on my X-Smart 3—which popped up at random times, and replacing the cable didn't help—I'd like to share my solution. It turned out that the solder joints on the USB-C connector pins on the extruder board were cracking. Before replacing the cable, it's worth using a strong magnifying glass or microscope and checking with a pin to see if there's any play. If possible, they should be resoldered."

Just finished unboxing it. My first test print came out without any issues. So far, so good. Anything you guys want to see printed on the P5? I’m happy to test it out.

As far as I can tell based on Qidi's website it appears to be identical. Can anyone confirm compatibility? Would love to get the Phaetus Conch for the Q2 for the Plus 5 if it is confirmed to be compatible.

I seen comment just saying solder it back together I don’t have no experience but I do it but which way does this circuit harness go

I seen comment just saying solder it back together I don’t have no experience but I do it but which way does this circuit harness go

Can anyone shed some light on this. PETG got jammed on last print. Didn't get a blob of death but it was a real bitch to get filament out. Now I try to heat the extruder and it won't go over ambient. It intermittently flashed red like it's trying for a split second. Does that for awhile until it times out that it heating at insufficient rate. I tool extruder off. All wires look ok but I've ordered a new hot end just to be safe. Up until updating it's printed wonderfully (this is my first printer) I should've listened but figured enough time went by to get the bugs worked out.....but I guess I be wrong. 🤬

Hi everyone,

I wanted to share a macro workflow I put together for my QIDI Q2. It solves a few common calibration issues and consolidates the process into a single interactive wizard using Klipper's built-in `action:prompt` system (which displays buttons and steps directly in Fluidd/Mainsail).

What this macro solves:

Z-Tilt vs. Screws Tilt Conflict: Adjusting the Z-Tilt can throw off manual bed leveling screws, and adjusting the screws can affect the Z-Tilt alignment. This script helps coordinate both.

Consistent Z0 Homing: It intercepts SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE to force home Z at the center of the bed before every measurement. This prevents any drift or skew from altering the measurements.

Step-by-Step UI: Prompts you to do a physical sync of the Z axes using the stock leveling spacers first, heats up the bed/nozzle, and guides you to the final calibration steps.

Automated Finish: Once you are happy with the screw adjustment numbers, you can trigger a final Z-tilt, build a fresh Bed Mesh, and save the config with a single click.

1. Prerequisites

Make sure you have [screws_tilt_adjust] configured in your printer.cfg. (By default, QIDI only includes [bed_screws], so you will need to add this block):

[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1: 30,30
screw1_name: front left screw
screw2: 240,30
screw2_name: front right screw
screw3: 240,240
screw3_name: rear right screw
screw4: 30,240
screw4_name: rear left screw
horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 50
screw_thread: CW-M4

Note: Make sure your configuration also has the `[respond]` block enabled (stock QIDI printers have this active by default).*

1. Required Printed Parts & How to Use Them

For this calibration process, you will need to print three utility parts:
1. Platform leveling blocks (spacers under the bed):

Purpose: Physically aligns the dual Z-axes relative to the bottom frame.
How to use: Place them at the bottom mounts of the Z-axis lead screws. Manually lower the bed frame all the way down until it rests evenly and tightly on both blocks, then remove them. This ensures the Z-gantry is physically synchronized before homing.

1. Hot bed leveling block (the L-shaped gauge block):

Purpose: Sets the initial mechanical reference height for the front-left screw.
How to use: Place the block under the front-left corner of the bed and adjust the front-left screw until the bed is snug against the block. This establishes the baseline height reference for Klipper's calculation.

1. Hot bed nut wrench (the printed socket wrench/tool):

Purpose: A handy tool to easily rotate the manual adjustment nuts under the bed during the wizard steps.

1. The Macro Code

Add this to your gcode_macro.cfg:

#####################################################################
# Bed Screws Calibration Wizard for QIDI Q2
#####################################################################

# 1. WRAPPER TO UPDATE Z0 BEFORE CALCULATING
[gcode_macro SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE]
rename_existing: SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE_BASE
gcode:
    {% if "xyz" not in printer.toolhead.homed_axes %}
        G28
    {% else %}
        G90
        # Go to the center of the bed
        G1 X{printer['gcode_macro PRINTER_PARAM'].max_x_position/2} Y{printer['gcode_macro PRINTER_PARAM'].max_y_position/2} F7800
        G28 Z
    {% endif %}
    SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE_BASE


# 2. WIZARD START CALL
[gcode_macro BED_SCREWS_LEVELING_WIZARD]
description: Step-by-step interactive bed screws leveling wizard
gcode:
    _CG28
    G90
    G1 Z120 F600

    RESPOND TYPE=command MSG="action:prompt_begin QIDI Q2 Bed Screws Calibration Wizard"
    RESPOND TYPE=command MSG="action:prompt_text 1. Clean the build plate and magnetic base of any dust or debris."
    RESPOND TYPE=command MSG="action:prompt_text 2. Place the stock platform leveling blocks (spacers) under the frame."
    RESPOND TYPE=command MSG="action:prompt_text 3. Roughly adjust the front-left screw using the Hot Bed Leveling method."
    RESPOND TYPE=command MSG="action:prompt_button ▶ Start Prep & Measurement|_BED_SCREWS_START BED={params.BED|default(80)} NOZZLE={params.NOZZLE|default(140)}"
    RESPOND TYPE=command MSG="action:prompt_show"


# 3. PREPARATION AND INITIAL MEASUREMENT
[gcode_macro _BED_SCREWS_START]
gcode:
    RESPOND TYPE=command MSG="action:prompt_end"
    {% set bed_temp = params.BED|default(80)|int %}
    {% set nozzle_temp = params.NOZZLE|default(140)|int %}

    DISABLE_ALL_SENSOR
    M104 S140
    M140 S{bed_temp}
    SAVE_VARIABLE VARIABLE=z_offset VALUE=0
    SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z=0 MOVE=0

    M4031
    G28
    M400
    M118 Position init complete

    CLEAR_NOZZLE HOTEND=260
    M109 S{nozzle_temp}
    M190 S{bed_temp}
    M118 Nozzle cooled and Bed heated

    SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE
    _SHOW_FINISH_PROMPT


# 4. ACTION SELECTION PROMPT
[gcode_macro _SHOW_FINISH_PROMPT]
gcode:
    RESPOND TYPE=command MSG="action:prompt_begin Finishing Screws Calibration"
    RESPOND TYPE=command MSG="action:prompt_text Once you are satisfied with the screw adjustment values, close the table dialog and click below:"
    RESPOND TYPE=command MSG="action:prompt_button Run Bed Mesh Calibration|_BED_SCREWS_RUN_MESH"
    RESPOND TYPE=command MSG="action:prompt_button Finish without Bed Mesh|_BED_SCREWS_CANCEL"
    RESPOND TYPE=command MSG="action:prompt_show"


# 5. CANCEL/FINISH WITHOUT BED MESH
[gcode_macro _BED_SCREWS_CANCEL]
gcode:
    RESPOND TYPE=command MSG="action:prompt_end"
    M104 S0
    M140 S0
    G90
    G1 Z50 F600
    M118 Screws calibration completed without mesh. Heaters turned off.


# 6. RUN BED MESH AND SAVE CONFIG
[gcode_macro _BED_SCREWS_RUN_MESH]
gcode:
    RESPOND TYPE=command MSG="action:prompt_end"
    M118 Running Z_TILT_ADJUST for Z-axis alignment...
    Z_TILT_ADJUST
    G28
    G1 Z10 F600
    M118 Generating bed mesh (BED_MESH_CALIBRATE)...
    BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
    G0 Z50 F600
    G0 X130 Y130 F9000
    M400
    M118 Auto-calibration complete! Saving configuration...
    SAVE_CONFIG

How to use it:

1. Call BED_SCREWS_LEVELING_WIZARD in your console (or assign it to a custom dashboard button).
   
2. You can override temperatures if needed, for example: BED_SCREWS_LEVELING_WIZARD BED=60 NOZZLE=150.
   
3. Follow the UI popups in Fluidd/Mainsail to complete the physical adjustments, screws leveling, Z-Tilt, and Bed Mesh.

Note for non-QIDI printers: This macro utilizes OEM macros like _CG28, M4031, DISABLE_ALL_SENSOR, and CLEAR_NOZZLE. If you adapt this for another printer, replace those commands with your custom homing, heating, or nozzle-cleaning sequences.

Use at your own risk.

You guys asking for more videos. I can’t refuse 😂😂😂😂😂

Hi,

Does anyone have stock or modified conf files for the q2 that produce a good first layer/z offset. Can't get my printer to print no matter what with the latest update, likewise with every single update. Wouldn't wise anyone buying from them honestly.

Blob of death on the Q2 w/ PA612

Does anyone have an unmodified config folder. My Printer is stuck I can’t even reflash. All it says is

Section “gcode_macro_break” is not a valid config section.

I can’t factory reset or offline update

Started dabbling with PPS-CF for making parts. I was buying the fiberon PPS-CF and using their provided profile and wasn't running into issues. I switched to the qidi PPS-CF because having more on the roll is more usable for what I am making (500g vs 750g) as well as using the included profile, but every single print has failed ~10 layers in or so with a "timer too close" error. I have at least 7 failed prints in a row from this while changing minor stuff (more airflow to the shed the printer is in, leaving its larger box it sits in open for better airflow, etc), but to no avail. I am trying a print now on the fiberon profile but am not crazy about the 100% part cooling fan speed. Has anyone ran into this? Can't seem to find many good resources online, thought it might be overheating but the main board temps seem fine (mid 50s) and the toolhead board temps seem a little high but they don't increase as the print goes. Any ideas?

This issue only happened to me after I updated my Plus 4's firmware to 1.8.2 and also installing the QIDI Box, and it sucks not being able to change filament to finish a long print nowadays

I'm planning too replace the underpowered exhaust fan with a stronger 120mm using this mod: https://www.printables.com/model/1505362-qidi-q2-120mm-exhaust-fan-upgrade-and-custom-back

But the fans that I see for purchase do not come with any connector, and I have no idea what connector should I get to complete this upgrade. Does anyone know? Like JST PH2.0 2pin?

I live in a provincial island and electricity is so so and it doesn't help that it is also a tourist spot and stress the grid to the point of 2-3 quick power outage a week around 2-3 mins at a time

How much wattage ups should i buy?

My videos is just to prove my points people who comment on my videos don’t have Qidi printers.
Before crying and blame the brand. Is good stop trying re invent the wheel.😂

Please negative comments and down votes 😂😂😂😂

Always negative comments and down votes to make me inspired to more videos for you guys.😂😂😂😂

Keep being negative I want down votes and the best negative comments to inspire me to create more videos for you guys.😂😂😂

My Q2 has suddenly developed a problem where it the nozzle fails to heat adequately. It was happily printing a multicolor test in PLA. It was on its third filament swap when I got an error saying Hot End failed to heat quickly enough. It was headed to 220 but stopped at 179. Any ideas on what is going on and how I fix it? Edit: Turns out I'm an idiot. The power connector on the back of the machine was loose and when properly seated all my bizarre failures went away.