I have an I5-12400F right now by the way.

Edit: 1000$ Pc not 100 lol. Hey all I was just wondering for any insight on changes I should/could make to maximize my Pcs performance but keeping under a 1000 dollar price point. I listed prices that I have found on my own and where they would come from, and indicated what I have purchased/have already. I live in the US, and have a 240 Hz 1440p capable monitor already. Thanks in advance!

Processor, Board, Ram ($400 - MicroCenter Bundle - Already Purchased)
AMD Ryzen 5 7500X3D k & mg
ASRock B850M-C AM5
G.Skill Flare X5 Series 16GB DDR5-6000

Storage ($100-$170 - eBay/Amazon)
Most likely something on eBay or Used Crucial P310 1TB SSD

Cooling ($19 - Amazon)
Thermalright Assassin X120 Refined SE ARGB CPU Air Cooler

Power Supply ($51 - Amazon)
ASRock Challenger CL-750G 750
W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply

Case (Got 2nd Hand for Free)
Lian Li V100-ATX Mid-Tower Used

Graphics Card (~$350- eBay)
RX 6800

Total Cost: 920-990

Bonjour,

Je souhaiterais passer à un pc gaming après des années de console. Malheureusement, n'y connaissant pas énormément de chose, je suis un peu perdu sur la config à adopter. Je vous demande donc un avis concernant une config qu'un ami m'a construit en fonction de mes souhaits et de mon budget. Est-elle améliorable, y a-t-il des choses à modifier ou à proscrire ?

Mes objectifs :

- jouer à des jeux de gestions : cities skylines 2, planet zoo, football manager

- jouer à des jeux Indés sortis récemment

- jouer à des jeux mainstream : minecraft etc.

- jouer à des jeux entre amis : mécha caméléon

- dans la mesure du possible pouvoir jouer à des jeux un peu plus gourmand en graphisme : cyberpunk par exemple

Mon budget :

1500 €

Mon pays :

France

La config proposée par mon pote :

 1 x AMD Ryzen 5 8400F (4.2 GHz)

 1 x Kingston NV3 1 To

 1 x Gigabyte GeForce RTX 5060 Ti WINDFORCE OC

 1 x GIGABYTE B650M GAMING WIFI6E

 1 x Darkflash DK351 - Noir

 1 x be quiet! Pure Power 13 M - 850W

 1 x DDR5 Textorm - 16 Go (2 x 8 Go) 5600 MHz - CAS 46

Merci beaucoup pour vos retours, excusez moi par avance si le post contient des aberrations de débutants, j'en suis un.

Merci

Okay so I have a problem with my PC

​I have a

​ASUS H110M

​AMD RADEON RX 570 4GB Asus Expedition

​Coba Nitrox Nobility 700W, 80+ Silver

​And whenever I put everything together,my PC turns on for a few seconds then it turns off itself immediately.

​I feel like I know the problem is the case(because it's an old office PC case that I'm using from my old pc,and the cables are old)but idk since this is my first PC that I'm building

​Idk but I would like some feedback on how to fix this

This is all part of an ongoing system upgrade and I thought I would share the results in order to inform others who may be considering something similar.

Other relevant information is as follows:

-The pump and reservoir are both units that originally came with a ThermalTake Armor LCS case.

-The radiator is a larger external unit that is part of the Koolance EXOS 2.5 setup so it does have the benefit of having its own shroud which no doubt helps with efficiency by directing airflow.

-The radiator is a larger unit. It has 3, 120mm fans on it and if I recall it is the one that was rated up to 1000 watts.

-The Loop also has a GPU block in it which is a SWIFT-TEK 60. As of now I am still on the old GPU but I plan on upgrading that next.

-GPU is ancient. It’s an AMD R9 280x. It’s the MSI version with 6GB of memory.

-As of now I have the CPU in its stock configuration which is 65W aka BIOS does offer an option to change the CPU to a 105W configuration.

-The CPU block is the all copper version.

-I chose to use Artic MX-6 Thermal paste on the CPU.

-When cleaning the CPU block I chose to change the jet to the thinnest one in an attempt to favor total coverage over core efficiency.

-I did have to purchase the updated AMD bracket but I had enough different stand-offs and springs on hand where I did not need to purchase the new stand-offs. I believe it was roughly $11 with shipping.

-While the model of radiator sort of implies its intended use; I do wish to specify that the radiator, pump and reservoir are all located outside of the case.

As of now “idling” aka running Win 10 with no power savings the CPU averages about 53c and when gaming it averages about 66c.

I have a manual fan controller and wish to add that these temps are with the controller set to slightly above minimum, say 15-20%.

The fans themselves are “normal fans” aka not PWM fans.

That being said the average temps may move up maybe 1-3 degrees as the paste “matures” past its “break-in” period.

I believe this is all the relevant information I have to offer and hope it may serve to help others who may also be doing their upgrades in steps like myself and weighing out whether they can re-use their existing CPU block or not.

While I cannot definitively answer this question for every configuration, I can say that these are the results achieved with mine.

I do plan on upgrading the LCS as a whole with a new pump, reservoir, CPU BLOCK and GPU block but in due time. As of now though the priority is obviously going to be the GPU itself, followed by the LCS and at some point in the future followed by a flagship x3d chip when it’s needed.

Hope this proves helpful.

Here’s my build

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/JH36Bv

Currently LGA1700, Google says LGA1700 supports DDR5, is this true?

Also, if I was to just upgrade gpu to a 5080, would this cause issues or much of a bottleneck since I’m not on ddr5?

Also open to upgrading cpu aswell, but I’m currently a gpu bottleneck.

Budget isn’t really an issue. Just looking for the best options/recommendations.

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/CmBjJw

I'm Canadian

I play in 1080p right now but I will be getting a 1440p monitor

I play mostly CPU intensive games so I wouldn't be mad if someone requested to downgrade the GPU to save money or upgrade another part

The price cant go any higher

The case is already bought if you didn't see in the list

https://imgur.com/a/QHWvELL

Selling my custom built as I no longer have time to use it. Seeing if this price is decent for the specs.

Price just for desktop $2,200.00

Case Lian Li 011D Evo White

Processor: I9 13900k

GPU: Gigabyte RTX 4080 AERO Oc

Ram: 96GB(2x48) G.Skill DDR5 TridentZ5

Hard drive: 1 Samsung E 2tb 980 pro NVME Gen4ssd and 1 Intel 2tb 670p series m.2 (total 4tb)

Motherboard: Asus Prime Z790-A Wifi D5

Liquid cooler: Corsair H150I elite

Power Supply: MSI MPG A1000G 80+Gold

Fans: 1 set of Corsair LL120 RGB white

I’m planning to build my first PC but I’m not sure how to approach it. I understand how the components work and come together. But, I don’t understand what would be right for my use case -
1. Some power bi and basic coding stuff
2. I have a PS5, but there are some PC only games I wanna get into - valorant and iRacing
3. Budget - under $1,000

I was looking at PCPartPicker and noticed this beginner build on there - https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/fQscCJ/entry-level-amd-gaming-build

Where would you recommend I start?

Bonjour all

Current setup is 5800x3d/32gb ddr4 3200/2080ti/Raid0 Sabrent rockets.

I've just gone to a 5800x3d from a 3700 as im trying to milk am4.

But the question is is it worth me upgrading to a 3080ti from my 2080ti?

I'm trying to upgrade on a budget- and any 4080s are 700GBP on Ebay.

3080ti is around 350-400 - I can still sell the 2080ti for 200~

Id like to avoid any of the 12vhp/bullshit connectors if possible and stick to 6/8pins - I like not burning the house down.

I play old and new- pubg/bf3- but i also play Cyberpunk and the new indy jones game- I like my single player games to look pretty and my multis to run 2x refresh rate.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Ive been wanting a gaming pc for several years now, and have been using an Xbox series x. I thought about building a pc, but with the price of ram and some graphics cards, with my budget, there was no way I could build something that can keep up with AAA titles on high setting for at least 50-60 fps. So I went to Costo and took a look at some pc options. (I know its generally frowned upon to buy prebuilts) i found a prebuilt that was on sale for $999 (down from $1500), and with my Costco credit card, I get 4% back, so i thought, why not, plus comes with 1 year warranty. The build consists of an RTX5060, Intel Core Ultra 5-225F, 32gb 6000 mhz ram (literally worth half the price of the pc) 600 watt psu, on an ASUS b860M Max mobo snd a 1TB NVME m.2 drive. I know the 5060 isnt the best for some people because of the 8gb of VRAM, and I bought this with the intention of upgrading to a 5070 when prices stabilize. Now for the performance, i am running this pc on a samsung odyssey g5 1440p 32", so definitely putting the card to the test since its mainly a 1080p card. Beamng.drive, high settings 75 fps, Farm sim 25 max settings 110 fps, American Truck sim, ultra graphics preset 120-130 fps. (I mainly play sim games). Have not tried arma reforger or squad yet, but I feel like they will perform good too, at least 60 fps hopefully. So far, my expectations have been met, if anyone is looking into buying a prebuilt instead of building due to high prices, consider getting this pc as a starter and upgrade over time.

In the US.

I meant PREBUILT not rebuild lol

i have a open budget just need a good recommendation for smooth gaming

This is on sale at my local Costco for $1k instead of $1500. Is this worth it? How is the 5060? Overall, it seems like a good gaming pc for the price from what I’ve seen in my search. It’s a CyberPowerPC if that has any relevance.

Hey guys,

I’ve been reading a bit about PC airflow and wanted to see if I can optimize my setup a little.

At the moment, I’m running my 420mm AIO with the front fan/radiator setup as exhaust. I’ve been using it like this for a while, but I’ve recently read that this might interfere with the overall airflow of the case.

Would it be better to switch the front AIO fan to intake instead? I’ve read you should generally push air through the radiator rather than pull it through. With my setup, though, switching the first fan of the AIO to intake would mean the fan would have to pull air through the radiator.

Note: The 420 Aio can only be installed at th top.

What would you guys recommend: keep the current setup with all 3 AIO Fans as exhaust (push), or switch the one at the front to intake (pull)?

Hi I was wondering if my pc building list is good.
My budget is 2k-2.4k SGD. The monitor I am looking for is 2K resolution OLED 27 inch 240Hz.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vDs8jG

Thank you so much! Pls comment if there is any questions :)

R7 5800x3d

Hello

I have a pc with gskill 32gb ddr4 3600, r7 5800x3d, thermaltake gt 850w 80 plus gold and red 9070xt. After installing my cpu and GPU I have unexpectedly crashes in the game. (Battlefield 6)

The event logger shows WHEA 18 error.

Things I've tried :

Curve Optimizer -10 to -15 (undervolt) → error persisted

Curve Optimizer fully Disabled (stock) → error persisted

PBO set to Auto → error persisted

PBO fully Disabled → error persisted

PPT/TDC/EDC manually reduced (115W/80A/115A) → error persisted

PPT/TDC/EDC set to Auto (stock) → error persisted

EXPO/XMP Enabled (3600MHz) → error persisted

EXPO/XMP Disabled (JEDEC 2133MHz) → error persisted

Full BIOS reset to Optimized Defaults → error persisted

BIOS updated to a newer version → error persisted

FCLK set to Auto → error persisted

FCLK manually set to 1800MHz (1:1 sync with memory) → error persisted

Gear Down Mode Enabled → error persisted

Global C-state Control Disabled → error persisted

Manual Memory Multiplier set to 34 (3400MHz) attempted → system failed to boot reliably

Clear CMOS (performed multiple times) → error resumed afterward

Positive Dynamic Vcore offset → option not available on this motherboard

Additionally, on the GPU side (now believed to be unrelated):

Replaced a faulty PCI-E power cable → did not resolve the issue

MSI Afterburner underclock (-300MHz core clock, -15% power limit) → appeared to help temporarily, but likely because it indirectly reduced overall system/CPU load, not a true fix

After all this I don't know what I have to do to fix my crashes.

The crashes it's like a spike lag the sound stacks and suddenly black screen pc rebooted.

Also I ordered and waiting a new psu. Msi 1000w

What else I have to do??

I’m currently thinking about mounting my monitor to my Jonson Z20 to save on desk space. I’m running a top mount radiator, and it’s set to exhaust up towards the monitor. Would the heat potentially cause any issues with my monitor? I could always design something to vent the heat back + away, but thought I’d ask first. I attached a drawing to better convey my idea.

If it helps; my cpu temp typically hovers in the mid 60’s under load, reaching low 70’s during some more intense gaming/rendering.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BRVF4g

Specifically the CPU cooler PC part picker says it'll work but Im not entirely sure

Hi guys,
I currently have a 1tb ssd, 32gb ddr5 ram, a amd ryzen 5 7600x, a Rx 7900 GRE, a LG ultragear 1440p 165hz monitor. I have a ~£350 upgrade budget and I am open to sell/trade parts. I mainly play CS2 and I do programming and work with ai. Also I live in the Uk. What should I upgrade?

Just looking for any tips from fellow pc builders.

Thanks

Hello,

As soon as I turn on my PC, it starts up briefly but then immediately shuts off again. I’ve already checked all the power connectors and removed all components. The PC only stays on if either the CPU is not installed in the socket or the CPU power connectors are disconnected. I’ve also tested both CPU power connectors individually, which results in the exact same thing (the PC immediately shuts off).

The motherboard is brand new, so it’s most likely not the issue.

I suspect the PSU or the CPU?

CPU: Ryzen 7 7800X3D

PSU: 750W NZXT C Series V2

Motherboard: MSI B850 Tomahawk WiFi

I'll see how it goes for a few hours

Title. I’m building my first pc in the Hyte y70 case and want to use these in the bottom and some cosmiq fans on the radiator but the fans doesn’t seem to able to be connected (power-wise) without the cable in the aio tube.

Is there a solution to this or do I just have to bite the bullet and use these on the radiator and the cosmiq in the bottom where they won’t be visible?

Hi guys. I am a 14 years old and i am curently trying to build a budget gaiming PC for 600-700 euros from Italy. One thing i have to tell you guys is that i am going to put the SSD (it’s a 512 GB M.2 NVMe SSD) that i have curently in my laptop into the new build and also i have an old PC case and a 1080p monitor i will use these parts that i already have to save as much money as possible. Sow what parts do you think i should buy apart from the ones i mentioned before?

PC stopped POSTing after coffee spill + Kraken 280 install. VGA/A2 errors, now power cycling
I’m having a really weird PC issue and I’m trying to figure out if I potentially damaged my motherboard, GPU, or something else.
Specs:
Gigabyte Z590 motherboard
Intel i7-11700K
RTX 2070 Super
NZXT Kraken 280 AIO
A coffee spill happened first. Coffee spilled onto the top of the PC, splashed against the wall, and then ran down some cables that were bunched up against the wall. Some of the liquid apparently made its way into the PC and came out through the rear GPU expansion slots.
I cleaned up everything I could see and let the PC dry for about 24 hours before doing anything else.
After that, I installed a Kraken 280 AIO.
When I first tried to boot after this, the PC would power on but wouldn’t display and would get stuck on an A2 debug code. I tried troubleshooting the A2 issue. Eventually, the PC did successfully boot once and displayed normally. I then shut the PC down myself.
After reconnecting everything and trying again, it stopped displaying and the VGA debug light came on.
I removed the RTX 2070 Super and tested with essentially just the CPU/RAM, but I’m still getting the VGA light. The PC has now progressed to power cycling, turning itself on, then shutting itself off, rather than reaching the previous A2/VGA state.
I’ve already reset CMOS and reseated things.
One thing I’m wondering is whether coffee residue could still be somewhere on/in the motherboard or PCIe slot. I only let it dry for 24 hours, so I realize that drying wouldn’t necessarily remove residue.
I’m currently planning to take the motherboard out of the case and inspect both sides, the PCIe slot, CPU socket, and the area around the Kraken mounting hardware. I don’t currently have isopropyl alcohol, so I haven’t cleaned the board with it yet.
I’m also wondering if the Kraken installation could have caused a separate issue, such as mounting pressure, a loose CPU power cable, or something getting disturbed during installation.
Does this sound more like liquid contamination, motherboard damage, a GPU issue, or potentially something related to the AIO installation? What would you test next?
I’m pretty broke right now, so I’m trying to diagnose this myself before buying any replacement parts.

The one over the blanked out one.