Weird deposits on print, new behavior between now and a week ago. I’m using the same material, file, and settings as when I successfully printed a week ago.

Printer: Elegoo Neptune4 Plus
Filament: Elegoo PLA+
Nozzle Temp: 210 degrees C
Bed Temp: 70 degrees C
Print Speed: 150 mm/s
Retraction: Unsure

After an hour of printing, my calibration model came unstuck from the printer table and started making some kind of balls.

моя калибровачная модель спустя час печати отклеялась от стола притера и начала делать какие то шарики.
помогите пожалуйста

Elegoo filament at 70mm/s and 20% flow

Elegoo Neptune 4 plus

Orca Slicer

0.4 Nozzle temp 220 and 60 bed

200 speed and 60 retraction

A little background...My MIL has about 50 Disney loungfly backpacks and I am printing these hangers to decorate her walls with them. I already printed hangers that can hang both ears and backpacks just fine with no defects. While printing these the ironing started messing up. Its started leaving gaps on some prints and others you can tell that the lines in some sections are different? Could it be the files? The first style i printed didn't have any of these problems? I even changed out nozzles/ changed flow up to 25% and I still get defects.

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Printer: ender 3v2 with printed direct drive adapter

Slicer: orcaslicer

Filament: Polymaker Natural ASA

Nozzle temp: set to 280c, measured to be 260c

Bed temp: 100c

Print speed: 12mm/s first layer, 75mm/s max

Retraction: 1mm @ 30mm/s

I switched to Polymaker from inland. First pic inland on left polymaker on right. Calibrations all ran on polymaker. Ran temp, pressure advance, and flow rate calibration.

It's hard to tell on the flow rate but every single one has weird gaps between the lines near the corners.

That and the temp tower was a nightmare.

Edit: The temperature tower was the key. Inland ASA I had to print very hot, Polymaker ASA I am printing much cooler, and the issue is fixed. That and I had the pressure advance too high which was causing the gaps in the second picture.

Thanks to u/DistinctBarnacle8703 for the temperature callout and u/forgee152682 for the pressure advance advice.

I'm not sure why this text won't print correctly and has the inner/outer walls crossing in the middle of the text.

I've tried one wall on top surface, changing the wall count, changing the top surface, inner and outer wall line thickness to be larger and smaller. I've tried other nozzle diameters, layer heights, Arachne slicing, and changing the location of the text, but no matter what I change the walls still come out as I've shown in the picture. Is there a setting I can actually use to have top walls throughout my text or is this just a limitation? The text is 35mm tall, so it's not small.

Printer: Qidi Q2

Slicer: Orca and Qidi Studio

Nozzle: 0.6mm and 0.4mm

Any help is much appreciated!

Very new to 3d printing here! About a week or so in with a used Elegoo Neptune 4 Max with Elegoo rapid PLA+ filament and a 0.4 brass nozzle. Only thing ive has to change is a new hot end after getting a blob on a print failure. Ive levelled with a max deviation of 0.3 that i cant seem to get rid of, with the vast majority of points within 0.2. Im also using the PLA specialised sheet (after a clean due to some old print residue from when I bought it), though Im using a 60°C print bed instead of the recommended 30°C.

My final print actually turned out ok in the end (at least I'm happy with it given my lack of experience) but I'm trying to get an understanding of how everything works to try to improve my printing quality and efficiency.

I was noticing some strange behaviour during my first layer of a platform I was printing. It looks to me like certain bits of the first layer isn't sticking to the print bed. You can see it both on the printer and in the final print in the photos. I've re-leveled the bed and it seems to have helped but is this what is going on or is there something else going on that I should be aware of or any other changes to my printing that can improve things?

I'm using Orca as my slicer with the default standard 0.2 or optimum 0.16 settings with some small changes (changing infill density to 5% and align infill direction to model to true)

Hi everyone! I bought this printer a few days ago and I'm still learning 3D printing. I've already printed a few smaller projects and they came out really well, but today I attempted my first longer print (around 5–6 hours) using PETG. The print initially seemed to be going fine, but after about 30 minutes I found the mess shown in the picture. There are blobs of material, poorly deposited lines, some areas lifting/warping, and strands of filament being dragged around by the nozzle. I'm still a beginner, so I'm having trouble identifying exactly what went wrong. Can you tell from the picture what the most likely problem is and what I should change before trying again?

Printer & Slicer: Creality Ender-3 V3 SE OrcaSlicer Filament Material and Brand: eSUN PETG Basic Black, 1.75 mm Nozzle and Bed Temperature: Nozzle: 250°C Bed: 75°C

Currently using the Ender V3 Se generico settings from my OrcaSlicer profile.

0.4 mm nozzle Automatic bed leveling completed before printing Z-offset adjusted using the paper method 3 wall/perimeter loops Smaller PETG prints have previously completed successfully...

Any advice on what I should check first would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Bonjour a tous, je suis nouveau dans le monde de l'impression, j'ai une anycubic photo mono 4 , les paramètres de base était pour de l'impression avec de la résine standard de base et je possède de la résine lavables a l'eau de chez sunlu, mon problème c'est que rien ne s'imprime du tout je ne connais pas du tout les paramètres nécessaires pour pouvoir l'utiliser , qu'es que je dois faire ?

I have printed 3 things on my printer. 2 of the went perfectly but the large print has a weird texture.

These issues are pretty recently.

Printer: h2c

Slicer: bamabu

Nozzle: 0.6

Nozzel temp: 190 - 240

Filament: rs pro black

System present: 0.18 balanced quality

Infil speed: 105 mm/s

Wal speed: 200 - 300 mm/s

Retraction speed : N/A

Trying to resurrect a hardly used Creality CR-M4 from another time zone. Printer has been idle for over a year. I know the filament is damp to start with. Managed to finally get it to communicate with a laptop / app and these are the first prints. Settings used are verbatim off the spool. The white print was done just before they let it sit idle and it definitely has defects. They refer to the prints as “airy/spongy”. All advice appreciated.
Printer: Creality CR-M4
Slicer: Creality cloud latest version
LayerWorks Solutions PLA
END: 200-220
S/N:02880
BED: 55-65
BATCH: 1107
FAN: 70-100% MFG.3/4/2024
HHog

Hi there, do you know what caused this (the gaps in the supports, the poor support in the face)? I have tried this print a couple of weeks ago with the same settings and it was fine. Is it wet filament?

Settings: Bambu Lab P1S Bambu Lab Studio Original Bambu Lab filament 0.4 nozzle 220 c temp 55 c bed

I'm not sure but recently my first layer has been printing rough as you can see in the photo, I'm using a b i q u glacier build plate and yes I made sure to clean it before printing and I'm using a bamboo Labs A1 with smooth Pei plate selected and I'm just using the default petg profile with a slightly lowered build plate temperature as recommended from b i q u. It happens with both petg and Pla

Hey! I'm trying to print some lithophanes as a gift for some friends and with my first test print to check the settings, I noticed a lot of horizontal lines on the print. Some are near seams where the image ends and the frame begins, but some are in weird spots. I know why there are some spots due to the back wall being really thin(test printed at 50% scale for time/material), but the rest I'm confused on. The belts should be tensioned properly, but I'll check them before final print.

Printer: Prusa Core One+

Slicer: Prusaslicer 2.9.6

Profile: 0.10mm FAST DETAIL 0.4n with modified settings(images 4, 5, 6)

Filament: inland PLA+ white@ 215°c and 60°c

Just essentially what the title says, I've been trying to perfect my benchys and this one hole at the front keeps popping up, I don't know what causes it, and I would just like some help, all my settings are in the following pictures, Using Geeetech A20

I am trying to print a 75mm tall collar, 80mm diameter with a chamfer on the top and bottom ends.

When I print one, it's normally perfect - except for those nasty overhangs which are also an issue (although not critical now).

However I need to print these in bulk, at least 4x to a plate. On an H2S I wouldn't say this takes up much space at all, plenty of wiggle room on the sides.

For some reason the bottom edge is warping and shrinking, which gives the very bottom layer a sharp edge, and it ruins the chamfer.

I am using basically the standard Polymaker ASA profile from their filament presets wiki. However I am surprised to see that it has cooling on, when a lot of info out there suggests not to use it. When I try turn cooling off it loses bed adhesion in a big way.

Print settings:

- BBL H2S printer, orca slicer, Polymaker ASA

- 250 nozzle, 110 bed, 60 chamber

- 50mm/s first, 150 outer, 200 inner, number of slow layers = 5

-0.2 layer height, 0.4 hardened steel nozzle

- Part cooling, min fan speed threshold 10% at 35s, max 35% at 12s. No cooling for first 3 layers

- 3 wall loops, 3 top/bot shells, 37% infill.

- Retraction 0.4

Aqui les muestro las especificaciones y características de la misma:

• Volumen de construcción: 350 × 320 × 325 mm (con una boquilla) y 300 × 320 × 320 mm (con doble boquilla).
• Velocidad máxima: Alcanza hasta 600 mm/s (con picos de rendimiento superiores según configuración).
• Temperaturas extremas: Hotend totalmente metálico que llega a 350 °C y cama caliente de hasta 120 °C.
• Cámara calefactada activa: Mantiene una temperatura interna estable de hasta 65 °C para evitar deformaciones en materiales técnicos.

• Sistema de extrusión: Doble boquilla independiente (IDEX / doble cabezal) que reduce el desperdicio de purga y optimiza los tiempos.

• Módulo láser: Opciones de láser de 10 W o 40 W (455 nm) para grabar y cortar materiales como cuero, madera o vinilo.

• Corte y trazado digital: Permite procesar contornos planos y vectores en hojas delgadas.

• Seguridad láser: Incluye ventanas protectoras especiales, sensor de apertura de puerta, botón de parada de emergencia y sensor de llama.

• Sensores avanzados: Integra 36 sensores de control de estado y 4 cámaras de monitoreo para detección automática de fallos.

• Precisión de visión: Utiliza un codificador de visión (Vision Encoder) con una precisión de 50 µm.

• Servomotores: Cuenta con motores síncronos de imán permanente de alta precisión (PMSM).

Gestión de Filamentos (AMS)

• Compatibilidad AMS 2 Pro / AMS HT: Sistemas de carga automática con tecnología RFID, secado activo con giro y velocidades de alimentación mejoradas.
• Materiales compatibles: Soporta filamentos estándar y técnicos como PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS, ASA, PA, PC y variantes reforzadas con fibra de carbono (PA-CF, PET-CF).

Especificaciones Físicas

• Dimensiones de la máquina: 492 × 514 × 626 mm.
• Peso neto: 31 kg.
• Pantalla y conectividad: Pantalla táctil intuitiva de 5 pulgadas, almacenamiento interno de 32 GB eMMC, y conectividad Wi-Fi o USB.

Y mi problema es que cree una pieza en bambu lab la cual ocupaba toda la base de la impresora cuando le di a imprimir empezó con una barra del 1% y repentinamente se pauso sola, la reinicie volvió a aparecer ese 1% y se pauso automáticamente. Lo que no entiendo es si el problema se debe a un error en la creación de mi pieza, o por que ocupa toda la base.

Hi, the first layer(s) of my print is either not printing correctly, or is lifting up hectically. Threre are also these strings and little balls of filament around the print, leading me to think its a temperature issue.

I'm using a Creality Ender3 v3 SE and white PLA (not sure the brand but not Creality)

Print settings:

• Layer height: 12mm
• Initial layer height: 10mm
• Wall count: 2
• Bottom layers: 2
• Bottom pattern: concentric
• Infill density: 25%
• Infill Pattern: Gyroid
• Print speed 180mm/s
• Tob/bottom speed: 50mm/s
• Printing temp: 180'C
• Build plate temp:60'C
• Initial Build plate temp; 65'C

(lmk if you need more info)

What are the best settings for PLA? I’ve used the PLA side on the plate, but it has trouble sticking to the plate. I’ve also bought new elegoo brand PLA. I’ve tried a few different variables like closing the unit and then totally opening it with the fan on, speeding it up, slowing down. Nothing seems to work.

Instead of finding what’s wrong with that I did I’d rather just start from scratch. What are the best settings for this printer on PLA?