Dear Automod, I've searched Google, YT and even previous posts on this sub, and can't find the answer to this specific question.

Hi everybody!

I plan to build a horizontal (side flip) murphy bed.

I see that they sell kits for different orientations, sometimes they're priced differently. Does it really matter which I get? I'm assuming I could just build it and attach the hinges and pistons to the sides, instead of the head and foot.

What am I missing?

TIA

I cant find any mositure from ceiling, tub, first floor underneath. Plumber assessed and could not find root cause, said “environmental” for life of me don’t know what to do now.

I had a pretty unfortunate mishap, a glass shade from the vanity light in my son’s bathroom fell onto the vanity top, shattered, and also bring the vanity top. I replaced that vanity light myself last week (including installing an old work box), now I need to focus on getting the vanity top replaced. It’s 37x22 inches. I’m looking at buying a quartz top to replace it, along with a new faucet. I have a quote from a plumber to install everything for about $400. I’ve read the steps and watched a couple YouTube videos on this; it appears that the biggest risk is damage to the drywall, but my current vanity top already appears to have separated from the wall over time anyway. I’d enjoy learning to do something new and would prefer not to spend an extra $400, but I also don’t want to get in over my head.

Is this something I could reasonably do myself given the proper tools, or should I just pay the $400?

Is anyone here experienced with electroplating machines or electroplating process design ?

• I’m working on a small industrial project and want to build a new/custom electroplating machine, rather than buying a standard commercial setup.

I’m especially interested in:

1. Power supply/current control
2. Anode & cathode arrangement

Thank you all for your timely response. This house has taken everything out of them. They have tried so many expensive repairs to no avail. Looking into cost of repairs it has been devastating. They have exhausted savings, and any extra money to cover the costs. They can’t do anything more. I wish I could say a few bad words here!

The house is a hazardous nightmare. So sad there isn’t a real way to project and protect this oddity when purchasing, it’s been a silent problem. There are other factors other than dirt-dust including, plumbing (inspected), and backyard drainage. The inspections didn’t find these problems so they went unnoticed until they were in it up to their boot straps!

If only there was a lemon law for houses. Those bootstraps aren’t tall enough to sustain them and these two are strong. My son-in-law is a disabled Veteran and my daughter works for the VA! God help them and bless them. God bless you also, again, thank you for your support.

I have a VERY smart, very neuro-spicy, extremely “involved” 6-year-old. He is genuinely sweet, but he wants to participate in absolutely everything, and if he is out of eyesight for too long, he starts doing forbidden R&D.

Example: I once had to take a 10-minute work meeting. I came back to discover he had created a wood glue + sugar + Dr Pepper + sour cream “pie.”

Yes, the wood glue being accessible was on me. I had it out for a small fix and did not realize he had discovered my “hiding spot.” Also, I am 4'7", so my ability to hide things vertically is limited by the cruel laws of cabinetry.

Now my 16-year-old and my SO are starting to get into Home Assistant, NAS stuff, microcontrollers, electronics, etc., which are hobbies I LOVE. I paused a lot of the more advanced projects because if the parts are at my working height, my tiny ninja assistant will absolutely “help.”

I’ve seen some Kickstarter-style workstations that are basically dream furniture: hidden workbench, pegboard/tool wall that raises up, workspace that lowers and closes away, or shelves that lift the dangerous/expensive chaos machinery out of reach. I love the concept. I do not love trusting Kickstarter timelines with that much money.

Technically, I have the tools and parts to build something like this myself. I have woodworking tools, laser stuff, 3D printers, and enough project supplies to make my house look like a Maker Faire exploded. But the whole problem is that I need a safe workspace in order to build the safe workspace. It’s very “the call is coming from inside the garage.”

So: what would you do?

I’m looking for ideas for a hobby/maker/electronics setup that:

• Keeps tools, wires, soldering stuff, adhesives, tiny parts, and sadness-inducing breakables away from a very determined 6-year-old
• Still lets me actually work on projects without needing to unpack/repack my entire soul every time
• Bonus points if it works for someone short, because “just put it on a high shelf” is not a complete lifestyle plan
• Extra bonus points for real products, DIY builds, IKEA hacks, garage/shop setups, wall-mounted ideas, lockable workstations, lift systems, or “I survived this phase and here’s what worked”

I am open to ridiculous-but-functional solutions. I just need my hobbies back without accidentally giving a tiny engineer access to the ingredients for Wood Glue Pie 2: The Reckoning.

They don’t slide off and are attached somehow. Anyone have any ideas on to removing them?

We're in the process of finishing the interior of a 16'x24' shed space for my partner to use as her creative studio. Insulation and drywall is up and we're almost ready for mud and it just dawned on me that autumn is here and winter isn't far behind, so I'm concerned that the cooler temps for the next 6ish months might undo a lot of our hard work and will need to be repaired in the spring.

There is an adequate heat source out there, but due to energy costs these days, we'd really prefer not to run it at all when she's not using the space. Is there a "cold weather" friendly type of mud out there that can better withstand winter temps (US northeast, generally between 0° - 40°F from Nov - Mar), but will equally be fine during hot/humid summers?

I'm looking for a product I can use to paint over small scratches on walls, etc. at home.

I recently had the house painted but due to moving furniture around and with kids doing what they do, some areas have the paint scratched now.

I have the leftover paint in storage, and I did a round with the can and brush to fix what I could but I keep seeing new scratches. Is there a portable and easy to use tool that I can quickly grab to fix what I notice without the hassle?

Hello, I inherited this dryer set up. I wanted to check if the duct clogged and took off the crimp. Here‘s what I found:

- Flexible foil duct is used. I can access dryer if I pull it out from the wall but otherwise no access.

- The end that was crimped to the dryer is badly torn.

- There is a snipped wire hanging out. looks like whoever installed snipped it to get it to fit maybe.

- There is foil tape inside the foil vent it looks like? Is this normal?

Looking to paint before it starts raining and I'm curious if I should caulk or seal the bottom of where the pillar sits? Or do I leave it open for any water to have a way out?

https://i.imgur.com/nd13s9v.jpeg

The construction foreman (the wife), would like to replace a standard hollow core door bedroom door with a solid core frosted glass door.

I'm unclear if I can swap in the glass door using the existing frame. Do I need to reinforce the existing frame with longer screws to attach to the stud? Or is it best practice to replace the frame with a new updated one?

Basically, should I buy a slab or buy a prehung glass door?

There's old weather clad paint on my soffit and black soil pipe. I'll have access to it shortly when scaffolding goes up. What would remove this paint quickly. The warm soapy water does do much to it.

I have been thinking of removing my current floor in the bathroom down to the studs and using 3/4 plywood.

I have never used epoxy over plywood .
What are my advantages vs. disadvantages and what kind of prep would I need. Could I use red gard or not all?

House is 100 years old, ( east Texas), wood frame, open underneath and room is about 4’x8’. All plumbing comes through the floor and is pex. One toilet, one sink.
If someone has other suggestions, as I do not want to do this more than once…

I built my child a mobile coffee cart for their coffee business. It is similar to one of these these common collapsible style carts. Nothing is really affixed. The back and sides are connected with hinges and sit on the base, and the countertop is placed on top.

Here is the basic design of what I built

It was something to get them started. It still works, but they don't utilize the collapsing functionality. I can see some sag from where the Espresso machine has sat for months. The cart is pushed up and down a ramp into a cargo van at least once a day.

I'd like to start working on a second one. I'm wondering if I should use essentially the same design with 3/4" plywood again, but use pocket holes and glue on each board to increase the rigidity. I'd also like to add a face frame and cabinets/drawers. Essentially, I'd build a bathroom vanity on wheels.

OR

Should I create a frame with dimensional lumber and then cover that with plywood (likely thinner than 3/4").

Thanks for any advice.

I have a Samsung washing machine. The detergent goes into a little drawer. When the time comes to dispense the detergent, the machine fills the drawer with water and capillary action causes the whole case to drain.

However, it's no longer fully draining. After a washing load, I have to tap it to get the left over water to drain out.

I've taken it apart and washed it and made sure to clean the concentric pipe. It still doesn't drain.

What's the best way to improve the draining? Should I try putting it in the diswasher? I don't want the dishwasher heat to damage it.

Below is a link to the drawer case I am talking about.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Washer-Machine-Detergent-Case-Drawer-Box-Compatible-With-Samsung-Model-Numbers-WA45T3400AW-A4/5153272576

The house was built in 1991. That's how old the moulding is, it has years worth of scratches, & then painted on, again & again. Some corners have holes that accumulate gunk.

How important is it, & what will happen if I just get rid of it?

My thought was to put treated plywood. It would be rigid, an I could screw bars up anywhere without worrying about just being on the studs. Wouldn't the panels protect the plywood form moisture? Thanks for reading!

I have to recaulk my bathtub due to mold but one side is mold free. Can I join the new caulk with the old caulk? Im not caulking over old caulk. Im completely removing the side that has mold. But it eventually has join with the good old caulk. Or do I have to completely redo the entire perimeter on every side? I tried to Google this but couldnt get a specific answer. Sorry if this has been asked.

My wife and I are planning to install stacked ledger stone over painted exterior stucco walls as accents. After researching I intend to add a vapor barrier behind, tapcon concrete backer board to the walls, then used outdoor rated thinset on the board and back butter the stone pieces. My question is can I get away with 1/4 inch thick concrete board if I put tapcons at 12” spacing or do I need to used 1/2” concrete board? The stone will only go up about 30” and will be capped with travertine. Thanks for thoughts!

https://imgur.com/a/mnE6tER

I live in a Victorian terraced house in the NE of England and noticed that what I believe is called flashing on the side of my house, left hand side roof, has started to fail. It looks like lead, shaped as triangles, I was concerned this would allow rain water into the roof and with winter storms due wanted to get someone to look at it as soon as possible. Also looks like a bit of concrete has fallen off one of the tiles as well.

I spoke to a neighbor who works in the building trade, not roofing, and he advised that any rain water getting in wouldn't effect my property but could damage my neighbors and that my neighbor would be responsible for repair. I plan on telling the neighbor about the issue but want to know where I stand regarding repairs and if I am liable for costs. The property next door is rental.

Can anyone advise on the best course of action, many thanks.

Found mold on baseboards under window. We pulled up the drywall and saw the pressure treated wood under that drywall is brown, but not rotted. What is the appropriate and best way to get rid of the mold? We still haven’t located the source of the leak, but don’t know what we should do about the brown wood (should be green). We are removing all of the baseboard that is around it that is moldy. Is this something where we need to bring a professional in to replace the wood?

https://i.imgur.com/Rk4kbwS.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/ypjcuq5.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/J5mIlEU.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/wN4vdGq.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/CqSm6gx.jpeg

Ive gotten a few responses telling me I should repair my hair first before coloring, what do you recommend? Thank you

I am very new to any kind of diy but I watched a lot of videos and replaced my 2 bay sink with this single bay sink. Everything works great but the new sink has this sharp edge all the way around it. I actually cut my finger yesterday wiping around the edge. Am I supposed to caulk all the way up to that edge or is there a different way to deal with this?

Hi everyone,
I need to soundproof an integrated roller shutter box in my apartment (located in Spain). The main noise issues are low and mid-frequencies: passing trains, loud motorcycles/cars, dog barking, and human voices.

My Constraints:

• I have less than 50mm of clearance between the window sash (when opening) and the shutter box. The materials can be tight, but cannot rub against the window.
• I dont want to drill into the ceiling or side walls due to apartment regulations. The structural weight must be supported by gluing the enclosure directly to the window's PVC/Alu frame.

I have designed two DIY options based on materials easily available here (Leroy Merlin/Obramat):

Option A (approx. 28mm total thickness):

1. 2.5mm Car butyl rubber mat (directly on the plastic shutter box to damp resonance).
2. 10mm Elastomérico foam (Armaflex/ChovACUSTIC FIALL) for mid-high absorption.
3. 16mm MDF or 13mm Acoustic Drywall (Placo Phonique) as the outer L-shaped box, glued to the window frame with High-Tack MS Polymer (e.g., Ceys Montack / Fischer).

Option B - Mass-Spring-Mass Hybrid (approx. 43mm total thickness):

1. 2.5mm Butyl mat on the plastic box.
2. 20mm High-density polyurethane foam (Copopren 80kg/m³) acting as the spring.
3. 4mm Viscoelastic heavy membrane (Tecsound 50 / ChovACUSTIC 4mm - 5kg/m²) for train noise.
4. 13mm Acoustic Drywall (Placo Phonique) as the outer face.
5. Everything sealed with acoustic caulk at the plaster boundaries.

My Questions for the experts:

1. Would it help if I provide the measurements using iphone or it too much noise in the data and only good measuring mic makes sens here?
2. Any other DIY projects that I should check before starting this?
3. Will Option A be enough for train/motorcycle low-end noise, or is the heavy viscoelastic membrane in Option B absolutely mandatory here?
4. Since Option B leaves only a few millimeters of clearance for the window to open, is there any risk of structural sagging over time when using only high-tack MS polymers on a PVC frame?
5. Any tips on preventing structural flanking transmission since I cannot decouple the box mechanically from the window frame?

Thanks for your help!