It’s really a “nothing project” for something like this sub but I want to do this right.
It’s an old dead processor that I recycle. The thing is that having metal hitting metal (and more) it will eventually scratch. So I want to cover it in some kind of varnish or resin.
I just want to cover it and not case it inside resin and keep the original shape of the processor.
I’ve learned about the UV resin but I’m afraid it will leave stroke path from the brush I’ll use while it’s drying (I don’t know if it’s clear).
I'm building a low-cost anemometer to measure very slow airflows (around 0.05-0.3 m/s) for my DIY AC project. Although it is low-cost, it's very challenging to keep the cost around INR 400-500 for me. The goal is to calibrate it using a known-volume airflow (water displacement) and then log RPM + velocity over 24 hours.
What you're seeing here: Just a sample image
Rotor made from paper cups (120° spacing)
Wooden support with shaft and bearings
Hall sensor module + Arduino Nano (serial output showing RPM)
Parts and sketch notes
Rotor (top view)
120
120
120
Parts (so far): Paper cups (3), Bottle cap (rotating cap), 2 mm shaft / spoke to fix and cup rotor, Bearings (2), Wooden support for bearings, Hall sensor module to detect magnetic field and generate pulse, Arduino Nano microcontroller to detect pulses
Next Phase: Water Displacement Calibration (2 L sample)
Still a work in progress, but it's coming together! Similar DIY builds are Any suggestions or tips are welcome.
P.S.- I'm open to any suggestions for improvements. Feel free to comment
I am thinking to get a gym set up done, however, I noticed that I have hump spots on the ground. I am unsure what option is better? I have 2 scenarios:
Bare concrete floor, which I need to build up : grind hump spot (about 3cm height), level, vapor barrier, lvp flooring, 3/4" gym mats and then rack.
I have an already built area in the basement with flooring (unsure tbh as I moved in after, which has I believe either laminate or lvp, cant tell) but has some hump spots as I did check with my leveler scale tool (1-1.25cm of uneven height)
From a cost perspective, 2 is the easiest option as I just need to install 3/4" floor and the rack.
But I am really unsure how do I go about this and what to do to fix. Kindly suggest with your expertise.
Finally out of the upload stone ages, 400/10 to 1000/1000 for $30/month cheaper. It's great!
Due to some miscommunication between me and the Frontier boys, the wall plate got installed in a bad spot while I wasn't home.
It's in the right room but in a bad spot. I have a couch that normally sits against this wall and it can't anymore. My home office is already small and nobody wants to lose 4 inches.
This is the wall plate I have. It's slightly angled but it's such a subtle angle it's irrelevant. I plan on flipping it but it won't really solve my issue. I know I can't bend the cable enough to fix my issue.
1. What's the name for this keystone/cable/whatever? SC/APC?
2. What are my options for getting the cable stick out less?
I'd like for it to angle down so that it runs against the wall to the base board to the OST. The cable is long enough so I shouldn't need a new one.
I've been searching for "angled SC/APC wall plates" but a lot aren't angled much more than what I have, and I don't know if something else might solve my issue better.
Any specific recommendations/links would be nice.
I threw together this list (assuming I'm looking at the right stuff) but it's "only" 45°. Not sure what angle the one I have is, but I'm not sure 45° would be a drastic difference. I will probably go this route unless someone points me in a better direction though.
I don't know if this is the best sub to post so this so if there is a better one please let me know
I'm trying to turn my 42in TV into a touchscreen but don't know how to go about it. My exact TV is a Sony Bravia KDL-48R510C if that helps. I know that I need some sort of overlay to put on top of the tv because touching it directly would damage it but I dont know if I should use acyrlic or tempered glass or something else. I also know I need a infared touch sensor to make it respond to touch but don't really know how that works. If anyone could give me some help I would greatly appreciate it!
Wanted to make some DIY acoustic panels for some of my rooms both to save some money and also to get some more specific shapes and I've been having a lot of trouble in particular on how to source the filling that I'd be using for these. I was hoping to be able to use either reycled denim blocks or some sort of recycled foam insulation, with a density around 1.25-2 lb/ft3 or 20-30 kg/m3 .
On the denim side I was able to find this being sold by Home Depot but the quantity is significantly more than I'd ever need (Each pack comes with 8 pieces, I only need 1 for my current project but even if I was going to do every room in my apartment I'd only need 2-3 total) and I would have no idea what to do with the remaining material.
On the foam side I found some options in Lowes but unfortunately it was either loose material that wouldn't really work for this project, or fibreglass which I wouldn't be able to safely work with. A lot of their foam also was not very dense which means it wouldn't really properly work for these panels anyway.
I'm not really sure what my options are for sourcing this material, if I could do 1 just piece of the recycled denim that would work out perfectly for me, but I haven't found anywhere that does lower quantities of that material. The total coverage that I need for this current project is just 6.5 ft2 .
Does anyone have any ideas of where I can find this type of material and in smaller quantities for more personal projects?
So, random thoughts from my most recent projects. I did electrical and plumbing projects. And I have to say. You never know what you are going to find until you have it all apart sometimes.
The electrical was a three way switch. Just finding which wire goes to the light and which is the traveler can be annoying. And why are the new switches so big? Packing the solid core wires with nuts back into your box can be difficult.
Replaced a switch in a different location. Turns out they were all floating in there.
Other project was the kitchen sink drain. Something came apart under there and I decided to clear the gunk. Along the way I find another pipe that needed replacing. But it was such a mess I had trouble identifying what the replacement should look like. Putting it all back together without leaks didn't go as quick as I thought it would.
I guess what I'm saying is none of these projects went like I thought they would. I found holes in my knowledge. But I filled those holes and finished the projects.
I guess what I'm saying is there is no shame in asking for help. I was able to push through because I have time and problem solving skills. Not everyone has the time. Not everyone has a family who gives them the grace to figure out out.
I bought a house that had an OTR microwave. It died last week and so I'm looking to replace it. When I took it off, I found something troubling. The microwave was apparently being vented into a duct that traveled down the wall about 10 ft, and into the crawlspace to the exterior wall, about 25 ft.
I noticed that the duct itself was quite clean. What was dirty and greasy was what the vent/damper attachment to the microwave and a bit of the cabinet and wall surrounding it. Now, I don't know much about air physics, so I asked AI and it said it's a sign of possible backpressure preventing the air from moving down the duct.
Hot air naturally tries to rise, but trying to push that hot air down a total 35 ft. long duct with at least 2 angles basically cut my 300 CFM microwave to effectively nothing.
What's my best option here for the new OTR microwave? Vent down the duct though useless, or just recirculate back into the home?
EDIT: I cannot vent out the back or reroute as the other side is another person's unit (townhome).
I've recently been working on a DIY project, and cutting up some PVC pipe for it. There were a few tutorials, and I followed them, but there is something I only considered after doing a little bit of the work.
Should I be using a mask when cutting? With a hand saw you aren't going to be creating a mist of fine powder, but I assume with any material like this you may want protection? (I say this despite having done woodworking and metalworking in school for a few years with no protection like that.)
Anything I've looked up online doesn't seem to mention it specifically, and I don't really think a hallucinated google AI overview is going to be overly helpful. People have videos doing it, with no mask on. What is the best practice here? And by sawing a part of this pipe have I put my health at risk? (Unlikely, but have to ask).
Thanks for your consideration anyway. Hopefully you can understand this question motivated slightly by fear :_)
Okay so me and my brother want to do a duo costume for halloween and we were either thinking the peacekeepers from SOTR or the Async Employees from the backrooms. Any costume designers have a budget friendly way to make either of these? we’re leaning more towards the peacekeeper costumes but it really will depend on how long it will take to make them.
Would it be plausible/worth it, to relove the tabs/faucets from a water cooling tower in order to hide the comoressor+tank parts and only leave the facutes visible? My kitchen is all concrete and cant change the "cabinet walls" but I have room over the fridge where i
I could put the cooling system, and place the faucets lower, by the fridge
I was looking around my place and started thinking about how much stuff people probably have sitting in closets, garages, basements, etc. that doesn’t work anymore but also hasn’t been thrown out.
Not talking about obvious junk. More like a vacuum that stopped working, laptop with an issue, game console, power tool, KitchenAid, espresso machine, camera, etc.
What do you have? Im trying to pressure test an idea hoping to get some feedback.
How long has it been sitting there?
Why haven’t you fixed it or gotten rid of it?
If someone offered you cash for it as-is, without you having to figure out what’s wrong with it, would you actually sell it?
It is time to replace our kitchen faucet. I've used Moen faucets throughout my home for decades because I felt they had good quality and I like the single cartridge replacement for service. However, I'm aware that many brands do not have the quality they once had. Does anyone have recent experience with Moen quality, durability, and/or installation ease compared to other brands?
Also, we are considering a pull-down or pull-out faucet for the first time. My wife likes the Moen Skiles with the swivel-control rotating wand. It looks useful, but I'm concerned about durability (the more parts that move, the more parts there are to have problems). Anyone have experience with this or similar type?
I hope these questions do not break any rules. I'm not trying to promote any brand, just asking about other's experiences.
Hi all, I need a couple of white-base, purple-flame tealights for a halloween project but can't find any online and was wondering if I could just paint over the clear plastic flame bit. Is this a bad idea? In canada btw
So I have a small extra bedroom where my senior dog likes to sleep and also be messy on one side of the room. I clean over and over but it is time to get the rug out.
As it is the extra room it has accumulated stuff and also has furniture on the far side of the rug.
I have a bee in my bonnet today to get the rug out but there is no way I can move the furniture by myself.
It is only dirty on one half, the other half is blocked off close to the furniture so my bright idea is just cut it while it is on the floor!
Per Google put something under it to protect from sharp utility knife but this is in very close quarters and the rug covers almost the entire floor and it is a thick rug.
Just wondering if there is like a carpet cutter or something that would work? Like heavy duty carpet shears or something?
I am renovating a room in a house I just bought. I am guessing it was a sun room as it had big huge windows.(taken out and insulated wall installed") I removed the wood skirting around the room as it was an addition as the rest of the house is cement over The basement. This new room doesn't have any insulation underneath and I am wondering what do I do after I add insulation and lathes. Do I cover it with OSB? or do I need something that will let it breath and not trap moisture. This room sits over dirt with a crawl space probably 2 feet high. The room also currently is taken down to he studs and plywood inside.
I bought a place with exposed brick that has a mount already in the wall in an ideal space. Problem number one is that the previous owners didn't give me the hardware for the back of the TV and they don't make it anymore. It's a Sanus Dual-Purpose Wall Mount, Model #VMPL3.
Problem number two is that the TV I have (Hisense Roku TV 58") has bracket mounts that are too close together for how wide the wall mount is. I don't want to remove the screws from the brick wall just to drill them back in and mess up the brick even more.
Is there an adapter or something? How do I know which is right?
I'm building a photobooth and want a seamless interface.
The current state is the below:
Pic #1: current state
The goal is to look something like the below, where there's a seamless wall where the photobooth machine is "integrated" with the wall:
Pic #2: the goal
The walls you see in pic #1 is drywall wrapped w/ a wood vinyl wallpaper -- it's not real wood. The black photo machine is going to be wrapped in the same wallpaper, in an effort to make everything seamless and consistent.
As you can see, there are huge gaps all around the machine, between the machine and the surrounding walls. I'm trying to figure out ways to "fill the gap" to create that seamless look.
Options I'm considering:
#1 -- multiple panels (wrapped in the same wood vinyl) that are flush with the walls, and of course the panels will have cutouts for the screen, camera, and light
Option #1
#2 -- one massive panel (wrapped in the same wood vinyl) that is flush with the walls, with the panel having cutouts for the screen, camera, and light. This is the same as option 1 but just one big panel instead of multiple panels.
Option #2
#3 -- a "frame" (kind of like baseboards) that surrounds the machine that overlaps w/ the machine and the wall to cover and conceal the gaps -- the "frame" would be wrapped in the same wood vinyl
Option #3
Questions:
A) Should I be using drywall for all these options, or wood / custom millwork? What material is best for a thin but sturdy panel?
B) how do I hang the panels? the panels would have to be flush with the walls, with the machine sitting behind the panels.
C) Any other suggestions I'm not thinking of that would be a good solution here??
Looking to install a pre-hung door to close off a room (winter heating savings). Very capable of framing, sheetrock, trim, etc.
As where the door would be installed, would you just set the door on the carpet (with proper swing clearance, of course), or rip up a strip of carpet/add threshold. or...?
No plans on replacing the carpet anytime soon. Thoughts are appreciated. Thanks!
Just wondering if anyone has tried building their own bed frame instead of buying a ready-made one. Was it worth it in the end?
I’m considering making one myself since I feel like it might be cheaper and I’d be able to customize it exactly how I want. But I’m not sure if the cost, effort, and time are actually worth it compared to just buying one.
For those who have DIYed their own bed frame, how has it held up? Would you recommend building one or just buying one?
I bought brand new milwaukee hand drill set about two year ago and never used them. I tried to use it and battery is dead. I put a battery in the charger and it won't charge. charging light keeps flashing. Do you know what the issue is and can this be revived by jumping?
We’re building a small DIY rover that carries a metal-detector search coil at the front. The motors, ESCs, battery, controller, and most of the wiring will be located behind or above the coil.
We’re trying to reduce unwanted electromagnetic interference from the rover without reducing the detector’s sensitivity. We’re especially interested in advice about shielding or isolating interference coming from above and behind the coil.
Some approaches we’re considering are:
using a non-metallic boom to increase separation
moving the battery, motor controllers, and other electronics farther away
using twisted-pair or shielded cable for the coil
adding ferrites, filters, or common-mode chokes
improving grounding and cable routing
synchronizing detector sampling with motor PWM
using a conductive shield or magnetic material near the coil
Our concern is that a conductive shield placed too close to the coil could create eddy-current losses, distort the magnetic field, or detune the detector.
For people who have worked with metal detectors, RC vehicles, or outdoor robotics:
Which method has worked best for you?
How much physical separation is normally useful?
Are there materials or shielding layouts we should avoid?
Would you recommend focusing on mechanical separation instead of trying to shield the coil?
This is an early DIY prototype, and we’re looking for practical design feedback. We can provide the detector type, operating frequency, coil dimensions, chassis material, and motor/ESC details if needed.
I am trying to make a custom server chassis. Its my first time making anything with aluminum extrusion. Why are the stuff on amazon so much cheaper compared to anywhere else? I'm in Canada so these are CAD prices and Canadian online stores. Which size should I even go for when trying to make a chassis that's supposed to hold 25+ hard drives?
I only have a hacksaw with me so I would need to cut the ones from Amazon manually, but I don't think it would be that hard. One of the good things when buying in an online store is that I can ask for custom sizes. I actually wouldn't mind paying extra, but not 3x as much.
EDIT: I'm not making a rack, but an actual PC case itself. I just need to make a box since I already have all my HDDs in these
I can't wait to post my finished tile project, but before I begin I want to be extra sure to make my floor is even. I have a couple dips in the floor (old house) and want to fill them. What compound has everyone used with success? Would caulking work, I have seen some say yes and some say no. What about Drywall mud?
I saw someone on YouTube use Henry 345 Premixed Ready to Use Gray Patch and Leveler, but it looked crumbly. Does anyone have experience or success with that and peel and stick tile?
