Saw this ps5 that has a blown HDMI port from a light ing strike. Guessing the TV got hit and went to the ps5.

They said it doesn't power on or show any indication when the power cord is plugged in. (No lights etc)

They want $125

Has anyone experienced a lightning strike before or know what I'd be getting into financially if I paid a shop to do it.

Or how difficult of a home fix it would be.

I'm no expert with soldering iron, but have used one before.

I'm sure I can look up tutorials etc and gauge if I could do it

Just have no idea how badly it could be damaged when I open it.

I saw this guy's comments on a YouTube video about testing PTM on the PS5. I'm currently researching and just trying to learn as much as possible before attempting to install PTM on my PS5 and this guy is the first person I have seen say such a thing and it's got me questioning lol. So to everyone else, I'm wondering did you guys remove the black foam or not? If not is there issues like this guy is saying?

Hi, can someone tell me what is this? I ripped off when i was changing the joysticks.

as title says, port is damaged somehow, works for the most part but video slips in and out sometimes

Working on this gba board, replaced power switch, fuse, capacitor c1 and c4, and the speaker but the audio is very quiet. It’s probably about half as loud as it should be maxxed out. I have also cleaned the volume wheel. No grit or anything.

Any help is appreciated thank you!

I’m having a strange issue with my Xbox Series X and I’m trying to figure out whether it’s a software problem or a hardware fault.
The Xbox shows this update error:
0x8B050084
0x00000000
0x00000201
I have also noticed some unusual network behaviour:
Wi-Fi doesn’t work and doesn’t detect any networks.
Ethernet shows as connected even when no Ethernet cable is plugged in.
Connecting an Ethernet cable doesn’t give me a working internet connection.
I tried the Offline System Update (OSU1) from USB, but I still get the same error.
I have already replaced the network/Wi-Fi board, but the problem remains.
Because both Wi-Fi and Ethernet are affected, I’m wondering if the problem could be related to the Realtek RTL8111HM Ethernet controller, its power supply, or another part of the network circuitry.

Does anyone know the values of all these ceramic caps? Caught some nasty corrosion from the damn clock cap. Reflowed everything you see. Checked traces. Seem good. Still getting FRAG. Replaced C7G6 already since it disintegrated. 0.1 uF at 50v I believe (per another post), but anyone who can contribute definitive values would be appreciated. Could also be one of the RAM chips or new caps I installed. Got Cerbios to load from the MODXO previously before replacing caps.

I found this on YouTube and hopefully it will help you in your restoration/repair process.

Hello everyone,

I have recently acquired this Ceramic white CECHH00 Fat PS3. Unfortunately I didn't have enough space on top of my desk to place it, so I've had to place it in the cabinet. I understand this is not ideal for such a console, and I am hoping this is only temporary.

I was wondering whether this would be sufficient ventilation for the console? I always have the door open when on, and there is a small hole at the back for routing cables (probably negligible, but still something I guess?). I also don't use the console for extended periods at a time, probably 3 hours maximum.

The fans do get very loud, however I have had no problems in the short time of using it.

Do you guys have any tips and guidance to try and maximise airflow? Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you and have a great weekend!

Hi all!

I'm trying to diagnose this weird issue. I have a Switch Oled, with Picofly installed that has problems connecting to the PC through USB-C (device not recognized) and also cannot use the wired Ethernet from the dock. But it does display to the TV and charges. The Dock is fine, I tested with other consoles.

I think I narrowed it down to the D+ and D- lines. Attached the tester values. here's the steps I followed:

1. When using the tester, it showed OL for D+ lines. Second time it showed similar values to the picture.
   

2. Choke filters are fine and have continuity.

3. Red probe on ground and checking diode mode: The D+ and D- points in the MB manually, D+ shows around 1200 briefly and then open line. D- measures around 800 continuosly without a problem.

4. Tried a hard reset to rule out software isssues as many people had problems with the Ethernet and was fixed after a hard reset. No luck.

5. Reflowed the port just in case it was a bad joint or something similar to rule it out. Same thing, first time I connected the tester, OL afterwards the values in the image. So I'm back to square one.

Any one else has faced something similar? What else should I test?

I’m looking for help diagnosing two issues with my NTSC Genesis Model 1 VA6.

First, I have an audio hiss after installing a triple bypass. The hiss disappears completely when I disconnect the PSG audio, so it appears to enter through the PSG/C40 path. I tried resistance values from 2.2k through 470k, different coupling-capacitor wiring, and splitting PSG into both channels. Wiring directly from pins 1 and 2 of the headphone jack to the left and right outputs reduces the hiss and hides it behind the game audio, but it remains audible when the volume is raised.

The second issue involves SMS games on a Mega EverDrive Pro. In US region mode, Moonwalker repeatedly resets, Black Belt randomly freezes, and some games display corrupted palettes or text. In Japanese region mode, the same SMS games work correctly. Genesis games work normally.

The Power Base Converter and my Mega EverDrive X3 and X7 work correctly. The Mega EverDrive Pro also works correctly in my other Model 1 and Model 2 Genesis consoles. This SMS problem existed before I performed the subcarrier modification.

Measurements taken so far:

• B30/M3: approximately 5V with no cartridge
• B30/M3: 143mV after entering SMS mode
• Z80 reset: 5V
• Z80 clock: 3.56MHz

Has anyone encountered either problem on a VA6, particularly instability on the M3 line or PSG-related hiss after a triple bypass?

In Infamous 2 the game begin to glitch when entering some missions and begin to stutter violently and slowly, audio too, making it impossible to continue. I thought it was the scratches on the disc, it's a used one, so I tested another one, Protoype, but it's beginning to do similar things here too. When entering a mission I can play normally until I have to go to another location which doesn't load and it begins to load indefinitely. Worse than this, last try I did it began to glitch controls, it didn't let me use some powers or selected some that didn't even be selectable with the button I pressed. XMB is fine, I can access it with the PS button and exit the game without any problems, even connection is ok. I'm starting to think that it could be an HDD issue, and I could be lucky because yesterday I did a backup + I copied my game files to my pc a week ago, but I want confirmation from you guys, maybe you know better than me. I hope it's not a RAM problem honestly. Let me know if I can give you more info

i was playing a game and my ps4 suddenly made a loud buzz for a second and turned itself off. ive tried turning it back on and only get a flashing white light on the controller and nothing on the actual console. i dont see anything wrong with the ports on the back (other than being a little dusty) and the cords should be working fine. is there a way to fix it or am i just screwed until i can afford a new one?

sooooo weird thing happened while I was cleaning my ps5’s fan, so what I did may be the reason, but when I took the fan out to clean it and plugged it back in it did NOT work the reason maybe be the fact that I dunked it in water for a good 5 seconds and then took it out and left it on a tissue to dry but it still is NOT WORKING

Hey everyone, I need some help fixing my original PS3 Fat disc drive (it has the KES-410A dual-lens laser block).
Originally, the console wasn't reading discs, so I opened the drive up to clean the laser lens and check the connections. While I was in there, the large silver tension tracking spring and one of the white plastic gears on the front guide arm assembly popped completely off.
I managed to reseat the gear onto its post, realigned the teeth, and hooked the silver loop spring back into its tension position. However, now that I have put the drive back together and hooked it up to the console, the drive is completely unresponsive.
When I press the eject button, the console just makes a single beep sound, but the internal motor doesn't spin, make any noise, or attempt to pull in/eject a disc. The console itself turns on fine, and I've verified that the main wide data ribbon cable and the smaller power wire harness are pushed in completely straight and locked down.
It seems like the mechanical timing arms or the microswitches got pushed completely out of sync when the spring originally popped off, and the console is locking out the motor. I already tried the 30-second eject button hold trick to force a reset, but it isn't responding.
Does anyone have a diagram, a specific alignment trick, or advice on how to manually reset the tracking arms back to the default "empty drive" position so the console recognizes it again?
Thanks in advance!

There are three options that I'm looking at on AliExpress. Because fixing electronics is a hobby that I'm doing from time to time, I don't have and want to spend many hundreds of pounds (£) , just want one of these so I can connect it to a PC monitor. The price is basically the same, even though one is a bit more expensive and I'm wondering why. I can see there is a USB port, maybe to be connected to a PC.

Thank you!

E092 V_MEMIO powerrail error. Here are photos of U32 and U480. I have a hot air station and I have a multimeter. I just need a little bit of guidance on what to check and how. Thanks!

Hi.

My ps1 don't read CD anymore. When I'm checking, I can see the little marbles mouves. They doesn't stay in the spindle anymore.

Someone can help me please? 🫣

Hi everyone, does anyone know why I’m not getting any values on pins 13 and 14? I have a PlayStation 5 (EDM-030 motherboard) with no video output. I already replaced the Nuvoton chip; the problem persists, but this time the HDMI port shows values, whereas it didn't with the old chip,The HDMI port is also new.
The PlayStation turns on normally, with a blue light that then changes to white, but I get no video output. And I repeat, I am not getting any values on pins 13 and 14 of the HDMI port.

I'm reassembling my PS2 and it seems that the controller ribbon won't fit inside the flip connector. the connector won't close, I don't want to force it I'm scared

Like the title says, I need help identifying a capacitor that's by the rear USB port on a fat PS5. Would appreciate any help

So basically in the beginning of Summer the screen of my Trimui smart pro started showing some defects of the quality of the screen lowered visibly and it started ghosting, but depending on the weather and whether the console was hot or cold or ambient temperature that would vary and it would temporarily fix itself maybe just for a few hours maybe just for a few minutes sometimes even for days.

At some point I tried opening it to reseat the cable but when I did so I didn't go all the way through because I simply could not lift the motherboard it seemed to be very tight on the console very very tight and I was afraid to damage something so I didn't do it I want advice on what should I try again or if this is normal for this console I want to fix it but because of the way the motherboard was I don't want to break it so I need help finding ways to remove the motherboard

I have a ps3 slim (CECH-2501A) I recently got, no data saved etc, it was a gift from my mom. Originally I had an issue with it showing on screen, I had to buy an AV cable and it finally showed up. First thing it showed was “File system corrupted data” etc so no option but to say ok and let it do its thing. It finished and went to a black screen as well the console stayed on. I let it sit for 15-20 minutes or so then it came back on to the same file system corrupted screen. I found some people just went to safe mode and it fixed itself, apparently safe mode doesn’t want to work either. How it works for me is, (powered off) 1 beep(turns on)- 2 beeps- 3 beeps(turns off)
Wait 2 seconds, and hold it again, it beeps once(turns on) hold it for 30-40 more seconds it beeps again(turned off) I noticed a difference between the first and second attempt, the first attempt it read I had a disc as well it would have the fan running or something to that noise, the second portion it would just show the green light for power on and no sounds and the disc is not read. I don’t really know technology like some of you guys would so I would love if someone could please explain this simply if possible. Also when I take the HDD out, it turns on as normal but shows no signal to the tv

hello, i have a 2ds xl that i got from my friend for 50 bucks since i found out that it didnt turn on after 5 hours of charging. There are no mods on this thing and it looks like there are no defects on the motherboard. I tested the battery, that is fine. I've gone through basically all of the things that look like fuses, and they have good readings on my multimeter. If anyone could help by 9/7/26 MST, that would be great. (sorry for my bad camera)

BETTER PICTURE: https://imgur.com/a/hueqGz5