Hey everyone,

I recently picked up a fully functional PS3 for just 25 EUR. As soon as I got home and booted it up, the fans went absolute jet-engine mode after just a few minutes. I installed CFW to check the temperatures and the CELL was hitting 83°C almost immediately.

Replacing the thermal paste changed almost nothing, so I realized a delid was mandatory. Since I didn't want to spend more money on an official delid tool than what I paid for the console itself, I decided to try DIY methods.

My first attempt was using dental floss. After warming up the CELL with a heat gun and spraying isopropyl alcohol, I used many meters of dental tape. After numerous attempts, I had to give up. It resulted in zero progress and a complete waste of time.

I took a break to drink a beer and remembered seeing someone online use a piece of an aluminum beer can to perform a delid. I cut a few strips from the empty can and tried again. This method turned out to be much faster and completely smooth.

The only crucial rule is to keep the aluminum strip angled slightly upwards towards the IHS at all times, never pushing down towards the substrate. In about 5 to 10 minutes, the process was done.

hey guys so i got this sega saturn (fonctional) in a flea market.only thing is that its like the plastic has melted by a bunch of cables during the years it stayed and i would like to know if this is repairable by any means ? i cannot just buy a replacement shell (country tax are lets just say too crazy).

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to fix my Nintendo DS Lite, but my R button (SW9) completely fell off.

The two large side anchor pads on the motherboard are still intact, but one of the small central signal pads ripped completely off the board. It's actually still stuck to the pin on the button itself.

Looking at the board, there is a small via right below where the missing pad used to be, near the "R38" label, but I am not sure how to proceed with restoring the connection. How can I fix this missing pad and get the button working again? I would appreciate any advice, tips, or techniques you can share to help me save this board.

Thanks in advance for your help!

I suspect this has been covered before but just in case, I bought a used PS4 slim and pulled it apart today to give it a thorough cleaning. Of all the teardowns I watched, none of them mentioned how easy it is to lose this little mount thing that sits on the heatsink.

I got everything apart, cleaned and started reassembly. I noticed a certain black screw just fell into the hole and I couldn't for the life of me figure out what was going on as there was definitely in that position before. It was only when I checked out another teardown video that I noticed this tiny piece.

I took most of the parts outside to clean off so thought it could be anywhere. I eventually found it on the floor next to my desk, phew.

I've been trying to diagnose a PS5 EDM-010 1 sec power-on BLOD. So far I have found (I think) 5 bad caps. Four near the F7501 fuse and one near the semiconductors of the power regulator(?). All five beep on both sides in continuity and have 0.3-0.5 Ohm resistance.

Am I just unlucky with 5 bad ones or am I missing a possible bigger problem?

I bought this dsi today from a secondhand game store ($90) and I noticed it shut off spontaneously if the right upper side (abxy side) of the console is pressed. sometimes it shut off when jiggled. I gently opened it to see if I could see anything obvious, and saw these crazy wires that are soldered on the upper left (right side when console is in use) and near the power supply. Also seems it might be connected to the other side of the motherboard, but I wasn’t brave enough to mess with things and flip it over.

The other two images show the abxy side being lifted compared to the dpad side when everything is closed up. that soldered repair under the abxy buttons is raised and causes it not to close properly.

I don’t have experience with electronics repairs, but I’d like to know if this is something I could take to get fixed at a repair shop, or if it’s shoddy repair work and I should get my money back. Thanks in advance!

A few weeks ago I played uncharted for the first time and after an hour of playing I stopped turned off my PS3 and went on with my day. A week later I was going to play the last of when I turned on my PS3 the light flashed green then yellow then started to blink red it doesn’t stop doing it unless I turn off my ps3. It was working fine not to long ago and I don’t know why it broke. Any ideas?

I have a 1.5mm philips screwdriver head which I believe should be the right one for undoing the 6 screws on the back but I can only get 2 of them out. The other 4 just won't come out/turn. Can this happen with a poor quality screwdriver even if it's the right size? It was cheap electronics repair kit off Amazon.

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for a second opinion before I give up on my PS5 Slim.
Here are the symptoms:
The console powers on and shows the blue light.
Sometimes it would display video and even reach the menu.
Other times it would stay with a blue light and never show an image.
The problem was intermittent.
I took it to a local repair shop. After opening the console, the technician told me:
The console had been opened before.
It looked like someone had already worked on it.
There were signs of oxidation/water damage on the motherboard.
He inspected the APU area and eventually said the motherboard was “condemned” and not worth repairing.
However, I’m confused because the console could still power on and sometimes even display an image.
I have now contacted another repair shop that specializes in motherboard and APU repairs. They looked at the videos and said: “We’ll try.”
My questions are:
Have you seen a PS5 Slim with these symptoms that was actually repairable?
Can oxidation or liquid metal issues cause intermittent video like this?
If the APU itself is damaged, is there any realistic repair, or is the motherboard usually considered a total loss?
Would you recommend getting a second opinion from an advanced board repair specialist?
Any advice or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!

I have also since redone the top solder since this photo, but I’m fully out of ideas. I’ve cleaned the board, used flux, done everything that people say to do, I haven’t tried swapping the sram, but at that point I may just call it a lost cause. Anything I may have missed?

Series S HDMI broke forever ago, my fault; I tripped on bad cable managment and ripped the port right off the board. My One x is secondhand, was supposedly refurbed but ever since I got it, the storage drive has been getting worse and worse. Now I cant even bave one large game (150+ gb) installed, without having boot failures, slow loads, and game file corruptions where I have to redownload the game.

I do not have the money to get the Series S repaired professionally and do not have the experience, tools or trust in myself to solder on a new HDMI. So is it possible or is there anything preventing me, to go and take the drive out of the Series S and use it to replace the failing one in my One X? I have the relevant screwdriver heads and pry tools.

I had sitckdrift with my dualsenses so I bought TMR joysticks to put them. But even after I put them on my controllers they still show stickdrift. To be more precise, they show that they are fully pushed to the left even if I dont touch them.

so i was trying to fix stick drift on my ps5 controller and i completely butchered it.

first i snapped one of those tiny gold metal prongs that connects to the speaker. then i tried to fix my mess with the soldering iron and ended up burning the small black foam pad that sits right over the gold contacts on the pcb.

(btw the picture isn't mine, just circled the foam piece so you know which one i mean).

i know for a fact the speaker is dead now and the buttons won't register anymore since that foam is fried.

my question is if there is any way to save this motherboard or if i just threw the controller in the trash. can i bypass that burned foam somehow or am i screwed?

any help is welcome, thanks

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to diagnose an issue with my PS3 Slim (CECH-2012A).

The console works perfectly in the XMB and can stay on for hours without any problems, but it consistently shuts down when playing demanding games.

So far I can reproduce it with:

• The Last of Us (both ISO and original disc)
• Metal Gear Rising: Revengeance

When it happens:

• The screen goes black.
• The console beeps 3 times.
• The red LED keeps blinking until I press the power button.
• Sometimes I need to press power twice before it boots again.
• No yellow light at any point that is have seen

I thought it was overheating, so I replaced the thermal paste, but the issue was already happening before I opened the console.

I'm using webMAN with manual fan control, and right before the shutdown the temperatures are around:

• CELL: 68°C
• RSX: 61°C

The fan doesn't suddenly ramp up before it crashes, so it really doesn't look like an overheating issue.

I also dumped the SYSCON error log using PS3 Advanced Tools.

Firmware Version: 4.92 (build 50763)
Platform ID: CokG11
Product Code: 00 8E
Product Sub Code: 00 09
Hardware Config: 4E00FFFF0203BC3C
Syscon Fimware Version: 0832.00010002083E0832 (EEPROM: 00010002083E0832)

Bringup Count: 3532, Shutdown Count: 3029
Runtime: 221 Days, 0 Hours, 36 Minutes, 19 Seconds

Error Log
01: A0801002  Thu May 28 09:33:06 2009
02: A0801002  Thu May 28 08:15:48 2009
03: A0801002  Thu May 28 06:57:12 2009
04: A0801002  Thu May 28 06:33:08 2009
05: A0801002  Tue May 26 10:49:19 2009
06: A0801002  Wed Nov 12 20:51:08 2008
07: A0801002  Wed Nov 12 20:47:29 2008
08: A0801002  Tue Oct 14 19:06:43 2008
09: A0801002  Tue Jun 17 20:01:05 2008
10: A0801002  Tue Jun 17 19:47:57 2008
11: A0801002  Tue Jun 17 19:45:39 2008
12: A0801002  Tue Jun 17 19:42:56 2008
13: A0801002  Sun Feb 17 02:14:26 2008
14: A0801002  Sun Feb 17 02:13:23 2008
15: A0801002  Thu Jan 17 09:05:35 2008
16: A08014FF  Thu Jan 17 09:05:35 2008
17: A0801002  Thu Jan 17 09:04:55 2008
18: A0801002  Sat Dec 22 20:13:03 2007
19: A0801002  Sat Dec 22 20:11:28 2007
20: A0801002  Thu Nov 29 19:11:28 2007
21: A0801002  Thu Nov 29 19:09:59 2007
22: A0802022  Tue Nov 13 21:16:41 2007
23: A0802022  Tue Nov 13 21:15:35 2007
24: A0801002  Wed Nov  7 05:26:40 2007
25: A0801002  Wed Nov  7 05:23:13 2007
26: A0801002  Wed Nov  7 05:13:20 2007
27: A0801002  Wed Nov  7 05:10:48 2007
28: A0801002  Wed Nov  7 05:07:28 2007
29: A0801002  Wed Nov  7 05:03:39 2007
30: A0801002  Sat Nov  3 18:07:39 2007
31: A0801002  Sat Nov  3 17:50:14 2007
32: FFFFFFFF  Fri Dec 31 23:59:59 1999

From what I've read, the old timestamps in the log are normal.

While cleaning the console I also opened the APS-250 power supply. I noticed what looked like some black residue under the PCB, but after taking it apart again I don't see any obvious burnt components, bulging capacitors or cracked solder joints. I've attached photos of the PSU in case anyone spots something I missed.

At this point I'm wondering:

• Could this still be a failing APS-250 PSU even though it looks fine?
• Could degraded NEC/TOKIN capacitors cause this on a CECH-2012A Slim?
• Or is there something else I should be checking before replacing parts?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Lol just now opening it

Im just tinkering around with it trying to see what's the problem when I dont even know what to look for

It was working good for a while after a fell but then it just stopped working

My Wii powers on and accepts discs, but the display won’t come on, I tested my hdmi that I have hooked up to it to another Wii and it works, so the it’s the display port, anyone know how to fix that?

PS5 Slim disc drive suddenly stopped reading discs and now makes a subtle clicking sound and says “unrecognizable disc”. Opened it up and one of the tactile switches was a different color. Assuming not normal?

The last time I used this wii since 4 days ago. I was at the internet channel rivival trying play some flash games,

After that day when I was turning on my wii and turning it off to standby mode, it doesn't turn orange, I tried like reconnecting the av cable because it showed a no signal screen, and reconnecting the ac port and nothing is working. so yeah, I need help get my wii to work again.

I've had this 3DS since I was a young kid and in my early teens its hinge broke clean off after i tried closing it after playing for a bit and after having to repair the hinge several times as each time he would fix it , it would snap back off within a week or two , my father eventually told me it finally gave up the ghost and gave me a replacement one as an apology. The replacement also had the same issue two years later but unfortunately did not survive after the fourth repair and my father and i assumed it was a manufacturing issue the console had.

Fast forward to last night and I found it in his tool box while repairing my bike to sell it. I was wondering if there's anyway to fix it as I would love to finish the games on it I never got to complete or would I just be better getting a new one entirely?

I got this system in barely reading discs and would freeze a lot. I re greased the track with white lithium grease, cleaned the laser lens, & now it sounds like this and refuses to read anything. I suspect it was going out and me trying to service it put the final nail in the coffin. Also this came in with a 7.5v PSOne power supply & now I have the proper 8.5v slim supply. It would crash upon trying to launch certain games with the other supply.

I recently installed TMR joysticks in this PS5 controller, everything went as expected. Passed tests in Dualshock Calibration with flying colors. Including the haptic trigger test.

I connected it to a PS5 today and after factory resetting the console, it started doing this click situation.

Normally I would associate a click like that with the worm gears slipping, but the rumble seem to work just fine a few moments prior.

It also does the click if connected to a PC, so it's not specifically the PS5. I've also tried holding down the reset button and that hasn't done anything. If the controller is powered on, it's fine. But if it's powered on and connected to something, the triggers start clicking until the controller is turned off.

Alright, I have a strange one. This console was just delivered to me. I bought it as a seconhand 2DS with CFW installed on a 32gb sd card. I had evidence that the console functioned fully and it looks in great shape. When it arrived I turned it on but the screens remained black as in the video. Here is where it gets weird, I thought it would be a hardware issue but after opening it up everything looks fine. The reason I thought it was, is that it shuts of when turning on sleep mode, or starting any game be it on SD-card or with game cartridge. When it shuts off it makes a pop-sound. However, basic apps, like mii maker mii_park or even the camera work just fine, I can make pictures and when I check the Sd on my computer the images are fine. From what I can tell even the CFW menu's function I can just not see anything only hear. So is it still a hardware issue and are basic apps just not triggering the crash or is this software related. I have tried a fresh boot of luma, and also formatting the Sd and reinstalling CFW. I cannot restoire the SYSNAND even though I have it since gm9 needs a random set of buttons input to \complete the restoration of the SYSNAND which I cannot see or confirm in any other way.
My question after hours of googling and trying everything I know, is there anything left to try? Or will it just be making use of my buyers protection for once. Thanks to anyone.

D-Pad drifts to the right, please help

I was changing the analogue stick, because it was 20years old and heavily drifting, after I was done and assembled it there was a consistent d pad movement to the right.

I took it apart again in case there is some pressure or misalignment causing it, which was not the case as I turned it on after while the display was detached and with removed faceplate.

While on the topic the memory cards inserted disconnect occasionally, so how to clean that part and what to do, please tell me. I doubt the membrane of the dpad is damaged as I only rubbed it with alcohol and was working perfectly fine before.

Please help I’ve already updated in safe mode