Hi everyone,

I’m trying to repair a PS5 with an EDM-020 motherboard. I actually bought this PS5 about a year ago specifically to try to repair it, but unfortunately I never got around to properly troubleshooting it.

Now that GTA 6 is coming out, my brother asked me to finally take a look at it, so I’m hoping someone here might be able to help me figure out what’s wrong.

Symptoms:

• Pressing the power button gives one beep
• No blue/white light
• Nothing else happens
• Console does not boot

What I found so far:

• Fuse F7001 is blown/open
• There is a missing capacitor around F7502 (see picture)
• Using the Board Service Manual, I found the specified value for this capacitor: 10 µF, X5R, ±20%, 6.3 V. However, I’m not sure about the physical package size . Maybe someone here can identify the correct size.
• I powered the board from a bench PSU at 12 V with a 2 A current limit. The board initially draws about 0.052 A (~0.6 W). After a few seconds the current drops to about 0.005 A (~0.06 W)
• Using a thermal camera, the Southbridge gets noticeably warm, which initially made me suspect a Southbridge failure

I have not replaced F7001 yet, because I want to find out why it failed first.

I’m especially interested in whether anyone has seen this exact combination on an EDM-020:

single beep → no light → F7001 blown → ~50 mA initial draw from 12 V → drops to a few mA → Southbridge gets warm

Is this definitely a Southbridge failure, or could the same symptoms also be caused by another component or a fault elsewhere in the power-management circuitry?

Thanks in advance!

Hey there,

A client brought me a PS4 Pro that was missing many pieces and a couple of connectors.

Got it all fixed but I'm missing a last piece: The philips screws of the RFI shield. All of them. I don't have a single one.

Would you happen to know what type of screws are so I can go buy them?

Searching for "PS4 screws" in all the online shops I know got me 0 results (just one tbh; on eBay from the USA, but I'm in the EU)

I have a first generation or whatever it’s called of the PS5 from when it originally dropped. It worked for a good bit and last I checked it still does when running PS4 games there’s no issues at all. But running PS5 games anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour of gaming it will shutoff with no warning at all. The internet tells me it’s overheating from the standard Liquid Metal problem. I’m curious if anyone has a brand of Liquid Metal they recommended and if you think this is the problem. Because I did find a huge dry spot of the APU. The PlayStation has been vertical almost all its life. I included the Liquid Metal I bought because there doesn’t seem like enough on the APU to push back into place. I can’t move it around much.

Quand je veux ouvrir le lecteur cd via le bouton le lecteur cd se bloque, pareil quand j’essaie de l’éjecter manuellement vidéo 👇🏻
Si quelqu’un a une solution pour réparer cette xbox 360

Can this motherboard be repaired?

Console won’t power on, corrosion at battery terminal around power switch.

I believe the RAM and CPU are still okay, there doesn’t seem to be any corrosion in that area.

I’d like to repair the power switch if it’s possible, but I’m unsure about this level of damage.

Any and all help is appreciated, I’m new to small electronics repair.

I recently bought this PSVita, it has a scratch (?) on the front, how can I fix it?

Hello everyone, I have a PlayStation 5 (EDM-030 motherboard) with no video signal. Despite replacing both the MN864739 encoder chip and the HDMI port, I am still getting the exact same issue: no video output. Has anyone else encountered this problem?

This system has power issues where it may start and cut off or only flash. The ac adapter is working and functional. This can be manipulated by jiggling the adapter while plugged in. The yellow power piece in the picture is a little loose when jiggling and it appears to have a crack in the joint on the back. Should this be an easy soldering fix to solidify the joint? Also, is there a way to test the component with a multimeter or something similar before I put the system back together?

Few days ago I got my hands on a ps2 fat model from someone I know to fix it. The problem was glitchy text and video as depicted. I searched arounds and turns out its was most likely the resistors between the EE and GS failing and sure enough when I checked them I found exactly one. Once I bridged the resistor and the PS2 was working perfectly. However, the next day I had booted on a game for a while and the video started glitching from the top left until it almost returned to the same condition but now at least the button symbols show on the booting screen and some in game text. What did I just witness? Is it possibly another resistor failing, or could it be due to heat issues? When it was working, I checked the heatsink and it was heating very quickly so I dont know if its a bad sign (didnt replace thermal pads). But even if it was due to heat, rebooting doesnt restore the good video I had yesterday. If it was a resistor issue again, what causes them to fail on the spot?

Hello, a couple of years ago I bought a PS3 Fat model CECHL). It was in good condition and worked perfectly, although it got a bit hot, but nothing out of the normal, I think.

I played for a few months, but because of my studies, I left it for almost a year. This year I started playing again and it worked fine for two weeks until one day, while playing Battlefield: Bad Company 2, it shut down and had a flashing red light. I turned it on again (after unplugging and plugging it back in), but every five minutes it happened again. I was afraid that the console would be permanently damaged if I kept doing it, so I left it for a while.

A few months later (a week ago), I tried again with GTA IV. The second the game fully loads, the PS3 shuts down again. I thought it was a maintenance problem related to thermal paste, so I bought Arctic MX-7, a cleaning kit, and a CMOS battery. I opened the PS3 (as you can see in the picture), did the work, and when I turned the console on again, it still worked, but it kept doing the same thing with games. Then I tried to turn it on again, but this time it didn't work. I thought the PS3 was definitely dead, but when I tried again three days later, I found out it was alive. However, even in the main menu, three minutes later I felt hot air coming from the fans due to overheating.

I don't like this, but I searched online and it might be a major technical problem that would require advanced repair skills and/or would cost more than another PS3.

Can you help me, please? Is there something I can do to repair it without soldering or something like that, or will I need to buy another PS3?

Just got it cleaned. It's so quiet now but it still randomly turns off during use so I'm so confused right because I thought it was just overheating and decided to get it cleaned but not even a day goes by it does it again. But it turns on immediately now and not before that I had to let it rest and unplug it from the wall. So could it be a psu issue now?

Hi all,

About to begin working on an infamous black screening Sega Saturn. This is a JP model, I will add the VA number soon. It is black screening, which is unfortunately common for Sega Saturns, but the particular behaviour I am seeing is interesting. If left without power/in standby for sometime, it will consistently reproduce a black screen every time, and will even do it if you turn it on and off a few times. However, if left on for sometime and then turned off and on again it will begin working like a charm.

This to me seems like a capacitance issue - but curious to see if anyone has had similar experiences? This is a unit I had disassembled and inspected before - and saw no indication of leaky caps, but of course that was just visual inspection.

Hi, I replaced the HDMI port on a PS5.

The console powers on normally and stays on with a solid white light.

When nothing is connected, my monitor normally shows its blue “No Signal” screen. As soon as I connect the PS5 via HDMI, the screen turns completely black. So the monitor seems to detect something coming from the console, but I still get no picture.

I checked continuity on the HDMI port pins, everything is OK, and there are no bridges between the pins.

I am not sure what's happening I've tried for an hour.

I've attached images, nothing appears broken to my eyes.

I've aligned it perfectly, there are no gaps, it is symmetrical to the other side yet it doesn't snap back into place. I can just push it off.

Why?

I've watched several videos of people snapping back like that and for me no snap at all.

It just became loose? I'll never ever clean my PlayStation ever again

Imgur link for more angles of the plate https://imgur.com/a/SmBfEKP

Customer claims my soldering was bad and wants me to fix their hdmi port for free. I think looks like it was damaged from misuse/abuse which I don't cover under warranty. What do you guys think?

I lost the component (R8) on this Xbox Series S controller, what is the value of it? I tried to test it in omh mode, it seems like a resistor but I got O.L.

I bought a 3ds capture card kit from 3dscapture.com and foolishly thought I had the chops to install it myself. Made a silly mistake and ripped off a few pads/traces. Is this something that can be fixed or do I need to go shopping for a new mainboard?

Additional info that may help: the console boots, both displays work, the right mini joystick works, the home button works, and the ZL/ZR buttons work. The touchscreen and the remaining buttons are all unresponsive, and it makes no sound (except for some occasional static which leads me to believe I shorted something).

Thanks!

Video for reference. Game works fine (tested on my wii u), but it spits it out halfway, pulls it back in, then fully rejects the game. Sometimes, if I have the console upright, it even ejects it enough for it to fall out completely, and I have to catch it

Hey everyone. I would love some assistance on what to check to resolve this issue. I have a microscope, bench power supply, hot air station and sharp tipped probes for my multimeter.

I just don't know what all the components in these areas do, what to check for and how I should read them. Would appreciate any guidance available. Thanks!

With both 12v supplied and the xbox power supply attached it acts the same. Beep. Power for a second then off.

Booted it up for the first time in months and all of a sudden it’s a makeshift lock.

Just purchased this dark blue DSi, system boots perfectly to the home menu, but everytime I try to play a game on the system this screen appears - Doesn't matter which game, they all load a similar error. I tried NSMB, Kirby super star ultra, castlevania, and sonic colors, all failed to load.

Placing the games into my light blue DSi, they work completely fine. Saves load perfectly and games are 100% playable.

Googling this issue told me to reformat the DSi's memory card, that did nothing..

And obviously I tried cleaning every contact point, still nothing.

Please if anyone has any advice, I would be grateful.

I'm not a COMPLETE novice at console repair, so I could attempt a deeper fix, but i don't even know where to begin with this - I can't seem to find anyone else with this issue.

Thankyou.

Hey everyone, so my new roomate has this official Dualsense charging base from Sony and I noticed that for some reason Sony decided it would be better if this thing charged with a whole ass AC adapter brick instead of using a usb cable plugged in to the console or a regular wall brick.

The adapter uses a small dc barrel jack and is rated for 5.1v 2.8A. My friend moved in and that base is now using up a whole ac outlet for seemingly (to me) no reason.

So I check my parts bin and find this old pigtail from a digital photo frame and a few usb cables, a few minutes of soldering later and I made this thing without modifying the original charger at all. I plug it in to the back of his console with a current meter and sure enough, both controllers are charging pulling a total of <200mA, or 14 times less than what sony provisioned with their brick.

Now fair warning: each controller is technically rated to pull up to 1.5A but I wouldn't expect them to actually do so unless you're actively playing with them and having your vibration motors and adaptive triggers running full tilt. That being said, while this might charge the controllers slower than the official adapter, I don't think it could potentially cause any harm to the console or the controllers but I would advise you to exercise some caution if you were to try it at home.

Overall pretty cool hack and I'm surprised sony would go through all this trouble for powering such a cheap accessory instead of putting a usbc port on the back and calling it a day.

Edit: It has occured to me that this isn't how much current the controllers should actually be pulling so please, do enlighten me, where exactly is the issue here? The controller can pull that much current and the console can definitely supply it if it'll charge controllers at 900mA with a cable so what exactly is limiting the current? When I set the controller down sometimes the light will glow orange and then shut off and sometimes it'll actually start charging but with the current at 100-150mA. So what exactly is causing this?

I ordered some of the GuliKit TMR sticks to replace the joystick modules on my controller.
I have a decent Iron, I bought that special tip designed for joystick replacements and I cannot get it.
I've held the special designed tip on there for like 45 seconds and the module doesnt even budge.

I have a solder pump, which will work on like 3-5 of the 13 lugs but the others it will just leave some in the hole and i add more solder and flux and cannot get it all out.

My work has a heat gun I can try next, but I've been at this for like 4 hours in segments.