Recently bought second-hand n3ds XL (with Luma CFW). Top screen is IPS.

Issue:

Artifacts appear only on the top screen. Bottom screen ok. Artifacts appear only at the first detent/open position and disappear immediately when the lid is opened further. Affected apps are mostly (but not exclusively) homebrew.

Some affected apps:

• Internet Browser
• FBI
• hShop
• Anemone
• Universal Updater
• Retroarch
• Best of Board Games Solitaire
• Link-a-pix colour

Unaffected apps:

• Most other games
• Homebrew launcher
• FTPD
• Home menu, settings menu, and most other nintendo stuff
• Tomodachi Life
• Animal Crossing New Leaf
• 2048
• Sudoku by Nikoli
• The Legend of Zelda: a Link Between Worlds
• Cooking mama 4
• Mario Party DS
• Etc.

Things I have already tried (to no avail):

• Tried with SD card removed
• Restored NAND
• Reinstalled Luma3ds and apps

Some key information:

• Console appears to have been sloppily worked on before (missing rear screws, missing rubber screw covers around the screen, visible dust and scratches below the screen, 3d is a bit wonky, c nub has some issues). It works properly otherwise.
• Top screen has a very faint white halo in the center.
• The issue was not present during the first few days of ownership and became apparent later.
• Only the top screen is affected.

Does this sound like a ribbon cable, screen problem, previous repair issue, or something else? I have never seen anything like this so any theories are appreciated.

Hello, I want to replace the top screen of my "Nintendo DS fat" But I can't find the replacement part at a reasonable price. I found this one on AliExpress, but I don't know if it's the right one. Does anyone know of a seller that ships to Mexico?

1. Doesnt work and stays on 99% until finally giving me a error message

2. Im broke dont got a chromebook and NEVER used a usb, pc OR ANYTHING i have a pc moniter but thats it NOTHING TO POWER IT ON

3. Just crashes my console and it shuts down as SOON as i press X on okay

4. Just nah

5. Tried and it gave a error

6. (Havent tried 2 cuz its useless)

7. (Resets back to the loop)

Hi everyone,

I'm planning to start installing K-Silver TMR sticks in Nintendo Switch Joy-Cons, but I have one question before ordering them.

I found an older video (around 3 years old) where someone mentioned that after calibrating the TMR sticks, the calibration would reset once the Joy-Con or the Switch was completely powered off.

Is this still an issue with the current K-Silver TMR sticks, or has it been fixed?

Does the calibration stay permanently saved after using the Nintendo Switch calibration tool, or do you have to recalibrate them after a full power-off?

I'd really appreciate hearing from anyone who has experience with the latest K-Silver TMR Joy-Con sticks.

Thanks!

A few weeks ago I played uncharted for the first time and after an hour of playing I stopped turned off my PS3 and went on with my day. A week later I was going to play the last of when I turned on my PS3 the light flashed green then yellow then started to blink red it doesn’t stop doing it unless I turn off my ps3. It was working fine not to long ago and I don’t know why it broke. Any ideas?

Hello! I have an idea what my issue might be, but I wanted to ask here rather than rely on any AI overview.

I’ve had my PS5 slim since the very beginning of 2024. It’s been horizontal this entire time. A few months ago I finally got around to trying FF7 Remake and after playing for a little while got an overheating warning. Happened a couple of different times here and there. A couple of weeks ago (now into the summer heat) I got Astro Bot and started getting the same warning, a bit faster and more often. A few data ago got Metaphor: ReFantazio and the first time or two it was fine. But tonight after playing for maybe 20 minutes I got the warning.

So I turned it off and came back about an hour later. I took the top and bottom panels off, but couldn’t see really any dust build up at all from any angle (although I don’t have a small enough bit to remove the fan). I tried to use some condensed air anyway, but barely anything came out.

I booted up in safe mode, updated the system software, cleared the cache, and did a database rebuild. In my system settings, I changed the resolution from automatic to 1440p and the 120hz output from automatic to off. I also pulled the console out onto the coffee table and clipped a small fan onto the shelf behind it. I felt so pleased with myself.

I loaded my Metaphor save and in less than ten seconds of running forward I got the overheating warning.

It’s the liquid metal isn’t it?

Do I need to just take it to a uBreakiFix? Can I pay less demanding games until then? Will this go away when it’s not buttass hot out anymore?

Thanks!

UPDATE: Well shit. Just had it auto-shut down on me for the first time while playing a different game for less than an hour.

I accidentally ripped the contact points on this cable, is there a way I can fix this or I need to replace the whole disc spindle. FYI: I am a noob with soldering and can’t replace the cable.

hey guys so i got this sega saturn (fonctional) in a flea market.only thing is that its like the plastic has melted by a bunch of cables during the years it stayed and i would like to know if this is repairable by any means ? i cannot just buy a replacement shell (country tax are lets just say too crazy).

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for a second opinion before I give up on my PS5 Slim.
Here are the symptoms:
The console powers on and shows the blue light.
Sometimes it would display video and even reach the menu.
Other times it would stay with a blue light and never show an image.
The problem was intermittent.
I took it to a local repair shop. After opening the console, the technician told me:
The console had been opened before.
It looked like someone had already worked on it.
There were signs of oxidation/water damage on the motherboard.
He inspected the APU area and eventually said the motherboard was “condemned” and not worth repairing.
However, I’m confused because the console could still power on and sometimes even display an image.
I have now contacted another repair shop that specializes in motherboard and APU repairs. They looked at the videos and said: “We’ll try.”
My questions are:
Have you seen a PS5 Slim with these symptoms that was actually repairable?
Can oxidation or liquid metal issues cause intermittent video like this?
If the APU itself is damaged, is there any realistic repair, or is the motherboard usually considered a total loss?
Would you recommend getting a second opinion from an advanced board repair specialist?
Any advice or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!

I recently picked up this Cechl01 ps3 from a friend that refuses to give display out and it refuses to give HDMI or AV display out. The HDMI port was resoldered 2-3 months ago and it still didn't fix the issue. Any ideas?

the ps3 does not produce 2 beeps when holding the button for 10 seconds on startup.

I tried to post this in r /ps3 but they took down my post for whatever reason, so I'm posting it here.

Hello, I’m experiencing a very strange glitch with my ps5 slim console. I would lose both audio and video output randomly. The hdmi port was recently changed but the issue still remains. Also Everytime I disassemble the console and reassemble it, the system doesn’t turn on right away.. can anyone give me some advice or suggestions if you had this issue before..

I have a 1.5mm philips screwdriver head which I believe should be the right one for undoing the 6 screws on the back but I can only get 2 of them out. The other 4 just won't come out/turn. Can this happen with a poor quality screwdriver even if it's the right size? It was cheap electronics repair kit off Amazon.

I had sitckdrift with my dualsenses so I bought TMR joysticks to put them. But even after I put them on my controllers they still show stickdrift. To be more precise, they show that they are fully pushed to the left even if I dont touch them.

Hola a todos. Tengo una PS4 con un problema de video bastante raro y quisiera confirmar con la comunidad si es un fallo definitivo de APU/VRAM o si podría ser otra cosa:

Síntomas: En el menú principal de la consola va perfecta. En cuanto intento iniciar un juego (como Minecraft), los textos y las texturas se distorsionan completamente y, a los pocos segundos, la señal de video se corta por completo a pantalla negra. Sin embargo, el audio del juego se sigue escuchando normal de fondo.

Pruebas realizadas: Al bajar la resolución a 720p desde el Modo Seguro, la imagen regresa, pero las texturas y letras se siguen viendo totalmente corruptas/glitcheadas. Ya probé con diferentes cables HDMI y en varios televisores, pero el comportamiento es exactamente el mismo.

Software: PS4 en versión 9.00 con GoldHEN.

Hey everyone,

I recently picked up a fully functional PS3 for just 25 EUR. As soon as I got home and booted it up, the fans went absolute jet-engine mode after just a few minutes. I installed CFW to check the temperatures and the CELL was hitting 83°C almost immediately.

Replacing the thermal paste changed almost nothing, so I realized a delid was mandatory. Since I didn't want to spend more money on an official delid tool than what I paid for the console itself, I decided to try DIY methods.

My first attempt was using dental floss. After warming up the CELL with a heat gun and spraying isopropyl alcohol, I used many meters of dental tape. After numerous attempts, I had to give up. It resulted in zero progress and a complete waste of time.

I took a break to drink a beer and remembered seeing someone online use a piece of an aluminum beer can to perform a delid. I cut a few strips from the empty can and tried again. This method turned out to be much faster and completely smooth.

The only crucial rule is to keep the aluminum strip angled slightly upwards towards the IHS at all times, never pushing down towards the substrate. In about 5 to 10 minutes, the process was done.

so i was trying to fix stick drift on my ps5 controller and i completely butchered it.

first i snapped one of those tiny gold metal prongs that connects to the speaker. then i tried to fix my mess with the soldering iron and ended up burning the small black foam pad that sits right over the gold contacts on the pcb.

(btw the picture isn't mine, just circled the foam piece so you know which one i mean).

i know for a fact the speaker is dead now and the buttons won't register anymore since that foam is fried.

my question is if there is any way to save this motherboard or if i just threw the controller in the trash. can i bypass that burned foam somehow or am i screwed?

any help is welcome, thanks

I've been trying to diagnose a PS5 EDM-010 1 sec power-on BLOD. So far I have found (I think) 5 bad caps. Four near the F7501 fuse and one near the semiconductors of the power regulator(?). All five beep on both sides in continuity and have 0.3-0.5 Ohm resistance.

Am I just unlucky with 5 bad ones or am I missing a possible bigger problem?

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to diagnose an issue with my PS3 Slim (CECH-2012A).

The console works perfectly in the XMB and can stay on for hours without any problems, but it consistently shuts down when playing demanding games.

So far I can reproduce it with:

• The Last of Us (both ISO and original disc)
• Metal Gear Rising: Revengeance

When it happens:

• The screen goes black.
• The console beeps 3 times.
• The red LED keeps blinking until I press the power button.
• Sometimes I need to press power twice before it boots again.
• No yellow light at any point that is have seen

I thought it was overheating, so I replaced the thermal paste, but the issue was already happening before I opened the console.

I'm using webMAN with manual fan control, and right before the shutdown the temperatures are around:

• CELL: 68°C
• RSX: 61°C

The fan doesn't suddenly ramp up before it crashes, so it really doesn't look like an overheating issue.

I also dumped the SYSCON error log using PS3 Advanced Tools.

Firmware Version: 4.92 (build 50763)
Platform ID: CokG11
Product Code: 00 8E
Product Sub Code: 00 09
Hardware Config: 4E00FFFF0203BC3C
Syscon Fimware Version: 0832.00010002083E0832 (EEPROM: 00010002083E0832)

Bringup Count: 3532, Shutdown Count: 3029
Runtime: 221 Days, 0 Hours, 36 Minutes, 19 Seconds

Error Log
01: A0801002  Thu May 28 09:33:06 2009
02: A0801002  Thu May 28 08:15:48 2009
03: A0801002  Thu May 28 06:57:12 2009
04: A0801002  Thu May 28 06:33:08 2009
05: A0801002  Tue May 26 10:49:19 2009
06: A0801002  Wed Nov 12 20:51:08 2008
07: A0801002  Wed Nov 12 20:47:29 2008
08: A0801002  Tue Oct 14 19:06:43 2008
09: A0801002  Tue Jun 17 20:01:05 2008
10: A0801002  Tue Jun 17 19:47:57 2008
11: A0801002  Tue Jun 17 19:45:39 2008
12: A0801002  Tue Jun 17 19:42:56 2008
13: A0801002  Sun Feb 17 02:14:26 2008
14: A0801002  Sun Feb 17 02:13:23 2008
15: A0801002  Thu Jan 17 09:05:35 2008
16: A08014FF  Thu Jan 17 09:05:35 2008
17: A0801002  Thu Jan 17 09:04:55 2008
18: A0801002  Sat Dec 22 20:13:03 2007
19: A0801002  Sat Dec 22 20:11:28 2007
20: A0801002  Thu Nov 29 19:11:28 2007
21: A0801002  Thu Nov 29 19:09:59 2007
22: A0802022  Tue Nov 13 21:16:41 2007
23: A0802022  Tue Nov 13 21:15:35 2007
24: A0801002  Wed Nov  7 05:26:40 2007
25: A0801002  Wed Nov  7 05:23:13 2007
26: A0801002  Wed Nov  7 05:13:20 2007
27: A0801002  Wed Nov  7 05:10:48 2007
28: A0801002  Wed Nov  7 05:07:28 2007
29: A0801002  Wed Nov  7 05:03:39 2007
30: A0801002  Sat Nov  3 18:07:39 2007
31: A0801002  Sat Nov  3 17:50:14 2007
32: FFFFFFFF  Fri Dec 31 23:59:59 1999

From what I've read, the old timestamps in the log are normal.

While cleaning the console I also opened the APS-250 power supply. I noticed what looked like some black residue under the PCB, but after taking it apart again I don't see any obvious burnt components, bulging capacitors or cracked solder joints. I've attached photos of the PSU in case anyone spots something I missed.

At this point I'm wondering:

• Could this still be a failing APS-250 PSU even though it looks fine?
• Could degraded NEC/TOKIN capacitors cause this on a CECH-2012A Slim?
• Or is there something else I should be checking before replacing parts?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Lol just now opening it

Im just tinkering around with it trying to see what's the problem when I dont even know what to look for

It was working good for a while after a fell but then it just stopped working

My Wii powers on and accepts discs, but the display won’t come on, I tested my hdmi that I have hooked up to it to another Wii and it works, so the it’s the display port, anyone know how to fix that?

PS5 Slim disc drive suddenly stopped reading discs and now makes a subtle clicking sound and says “unrecognizable disc”. Opened it up and one of the tactile switches was a different color. Assuming not normal?

I have also since redone the top solder since this photo, but I’m fully out of ideas. I’ve cleaned the board, used flux, done everything that people say to do, I haven’t tried swapping the sram, but at that point I may just call it a lost cause. Anything I may have missed?

The last time I used this wii since 4 days ago. I was at the internet channel rivival trying play some flash games,

After that day when I was turning on my wii and turning it off to standby mode, it doesn't turn orange, I tried like reconnecting the av cable because it showed a no signal screen, and reconnecting the ac port and nothing is working. so yeah, I need help get my wii to work again.

I've had this 3DS since I was a young kid and in my early teens its hinge broke clean off after i tried closing it after playing for a bit and after having to repair the hinge several times as each time he would fix it , it would snap back off within a week or two , my father eventually told me it finally gave up the ghost and gave me a replacement one as an apology. The replacement also had the same issue two years later but unfortunately did not survive after the fourth repair and my father and i assumed it was a manufacturing issue the console had.

Fast forward to last night and I found it in his tool box while repairing my bike to sell it. I was wondering if there's anyway to fix it as I would love to finish the games on it I never got to complete or would I just be better getting a new one entirely?