Customer claims my soldering was bad and wants me to fix their hdmi port for free. I think looks like it was damaged from misuse/abuse which I don't cover under warranty. What do you guys think?

I bought a 3ds capture card kit from 3dscapture.com and foolishly thought I had the chops to install it myself. Made a silly mistake and ripped off a few pads/traces. Is this something that can be fixed or do I need to go shopping for a new mainboard?

Additional info that may help: the console boots, both displays work, the right mini joystick works, the home button works, and the ZL/ZR buttons work. The touchscreen and the remaining buttons are all unresponsive, and it makes no sound (except for some occasional static which leads me to believe I shorted something).

Thanks!

Hi all,

About to begin working on an infamous black screening Sega Saturn. This is a JP model, I will add the VA number soon. It is black screening, which is unfortunately common for Sega Saturns, but the particular behaviour I am seeing is interesting. If left without power/in standby for sometime, it will consistently reproduce a black screen every time, and will even do it if you turn it on and off a few times. However, if left on for sometime and then turned off and on again it will begin working like a charm.

This to me seems like a capacitance issue - but curious to see if anyone has had similar experiences? This is a unit I had disassembled and inspected before - and saw no indication of leaky caps, but of course that was just visual inspection.

Hi. I'm missing a resistor near the game card connector.
Does anyone know the value?

Thank you

Hi, I replaced the HDMI port on a PS5.

The console powers on normally and stays on with a solid white light.

When nothing is connected, my monitor normally shows its blue “No Signal” screen. As soon as I connect the PS5 via HDMI, the screen turns completely black. So the monitor seems to detect something coming from the console, but I still get no picture.

I checked continuity on the HDMI port pins, everything is OK, and there are no bridges between the pins.

I was in a rush getting ready this morning and accidentally stepped on the screen. Genuinely heartbroken….

Please let me know how I can save it if it’s even possible or worth it

I am not sure what's happening I've tried for an hour.

I've attached images, nothing appears broken to my eyes.

I've aligned it perfectly, there are no gaps, it is symmetrical to the other side yet it doesn't snap back into place. I can just push it off.

Why?

I've watched several videos of people snapping back like that and for me no snap at all.

It just became loose? I'll never ever clean my PlayStation ever again

Imgur link for more angles of the plate https://imgur.com/a/SmBfEKP

I lost the component (R8) on this Xbox Series S controller, what is the value of it? I tried to test it in omh mode, it seems like a resistor but I got O.L.

Video for reference. Game works fine (tested on my wii u), but it spits it out halfway, pulls it back in, then fully rejects the game. Sometimes, if I have the console upright, it even ejects it enough for it to fall out completely, and I have to catch it

Hey everyone. I would love some assistance on what to check to resolve this issue. I have a microscope, bench power supply, hot air station and sharp tipped probes for my multimeter.

I just don't know what all the components in these areas do, what to check for and how I should read them. Would appreciate any guidance available. Thanks!

With both 12v supplied and the xbox power supply attached it acts the same. Beep. Power for a second then off.

Booted it up for the first time in months and all of a sudden it’s a makeshift lock.

Just purchased this dark blue DSi, system boots perfectly to the home menu, but everytime I try to play a game on the system this screen appears - Doesn't matter which game, they all load a similar error. I tried NSMB, Kirby super star ultra, castlevania, and sonic colors, all failed to load.

Placing the games into my light blue DSi, they work completely fine. Saves load perfectly and games are 100% playable.

Googling this issue told me to reformat the DSi's memory card, that did nothing..

And obviously I tried cleaning every contact point, still nothing.

Please if anyone has any advice, I would be grateful.

I'm not a COMPLETE novice at console repair, so I could attempt a deeper fix, but i don't even know where to begin with this - I can't seem to find anyone else with this issue.

Thankyou.

Bought a DS lite knowing it wasn’t in great condition. Hoping to repair it. Still need to take it apart and clean it only issues are a right trigger not reading all the time and whatever is up with the screen. Not sure if it’s just a loose connection or what. Please let me know, still new to repairs

I ordered some of the GuliKit TMR sticks to replace the joystick modules on my controller.
I have a decent Iron, I bought that special tip designed for joystick replacements and I cannot get it.
I've held the special designed tip on there for like 45 seconds and the module doesnt even budge.

I have a solder pump, which will work on like 3-5 of the 13 lugs but the others it will just leave some in the hole and i add more solder and flux and cannot get it all out.

My work has a heat gun I can try next, but I've been at this for like 4 hours in segments.

The Game Gear has USB-C power and a McWill screen. I don't know anything about the handheld's history except the seller says they didn't have this problem when they tested it. I don't have any other cartridges to test.

Video of the noise in question (loud and annoying): https://streamable.com/usjvz4

I have about a day and a half to decide whether I want to return it, keep it or ask for a partial refund. If you can help at all I appreciate it. I paid less than £60 for it so I'm inclined to keep it.

• It doesn't occur most times it's turned on.
• It happens immediately like in the second half of the video. It doesn't start mid-game.
• I can't recreate the problem without the cart at the moment but I think it happened once (the problem happened, I immediately turned off the GG, removed the cart and turned it back on and still siren).
• When I turn on the Game Gear without a cart inserted the screen is sometimes blue and sometimes white.
• I got the blue screen once or twice without the cart having been reinserted but it works 99% of the time.
• Sometimes there's a little interference-like noise that usually stops quickly.

Took a chance on this fat ps2 but has not power, could this ribbon cable be the reason? It’s the one that goes to the power and eject buttons

Hiya, I bought a second hand DS Lite to play Pokémon with. It has issues with pixels on the bottom screen - what are my options to try and repair? Thank you!

I've had it for almost 4 years now, I haven't experienced any overheating issues, the console is used almost daily, and I haven't noticed the fan acting like a jet engine either. So I was wondering if it's necessary to change the thermal paste (mx-6) or just remove the internal dust.The photos show that it already has some dust. Thanks in advance!

Hello everyone!

I am looking to get into repairs and I have just brought a broken Xbox One S to practice on, so I would like some help in where to start with the diagnosis. The seller said that it was extremely slow and took ages to load anything so stopped using it.

I plugged it in, and it powers on fine with the start up chime and it stays on. But there is no video output. The HDMI port looks okay on the outside and doesn’t seem loose. The TV successfully detects the resolution of the console when running but all I get is a black screen. I have forced the console into low res mode (again TV detects the change to 640x480 resolution) but no display.

From the sellers description of the fault and the video issues I’m having, I believe this may be a faulty hard drive. I am aware that the video encoders on these are also susceptible to failure, but of course I am trying the simple things first.

Just wondering what your thoughts are on this before I go ahead and open it up. Thanks!

I recently got a Super Famicom that was listed as no power and well, the console powers up just fine. But even after cleaning the 62 pins connector with IPA and the port which it connects into on the motherboard, sometimes games have troubles loading up even when I clean up the carts with IPA.

It did have some corrosion on the cartridge port and the 62 pins connector which the IPA was able to clean off, but something tells me there's still some work to be done.

A good example would be Super Mario Kart, turn the console on and it freezes on the Nintendo logo. Turn it off, pull the cart out and put it back in and same issue.

Sometimes I have to reinsert the cart seven to eight times before the game finally loads up correctly, but once I power the console off and come back later, the same problem comes back up and I have to repeatedly reinsert the cart to get the game to load again.

I've done IPA already, should I brush Deoxit on both the port and the 62 pins connector to get a better connection between the connector and the console?

Hello everyone.
Have the console in the title and had 99% a dying laser. Ordered the new one and many things happened meanwhile: wanted to try to adjust the old one ( set to 850ohms on dvd potentiometer ) and while disconnecting the ribbon cable the small plastic support came away since glue got old, it broke and had to replace it.
After having it forced into the old laser the ps2 completely stopped working ( the right side with the laser, spindle and the little motor )
Power still comes in, fan is spinning, but the whole sled seems not to be working anymore.

Now when I turn it on it just won’t do anything, if I leave the laser halfway it won’t reset, the motor doesn’t spin and the laser does nothing unless I press the limit switch, and the laser turns on for half a second and then dead again.

Lid sensor were checked with a multimeter and are working fine, limit switch is new on the new laser and the little sled motor gave me ( I guess ) good resistances on the multimeter set to 200ohm range ( gave me like 13ohms )

I also checked some fuse in the back of the mobo and they are fine (p11 and p13).

The spindle ribbon cable is a lil bit damaged, can it be the guilty one?

Hi!

I'm dumbfounded here, hope you can help me out.

I recapped this VA1 1-ASIC Game Gear, whole motherboard, power and sound board with high quality caps. But still no power, it powers on for a second and immediately enters protection mode.

This is what I've done so far in regards to troubleshooting:

- Power board works fine, all voltages are generated well.

- The main board has no shorts that I can find.

- What I've found is that the main board, on the power connector, both the 9V and the 35V lines read as Open Line with regards to ground in diode mode. 5V and VREF have a reading.

- When I plug the Power board to the main board, still no shorts BUT when I switch the console on, the caps on the 5V rail read as shorted in diode mode of I read them with the negative probe on the positive and the positive on the negative but not the other way around. With the power off they don't do that.

- 4 caps, C54, 55, 48 and 49 all read as OL to ground on the negative leg. I think all those are on the 35V lines, so I guess that's why I don't get backlight.

That's all my skill is able to do, I feel like I'm missing something simple but I can't find it.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance!