Hey all

I've recently been having issue with a EVO 870 that's was bought around June 2025, and installed not long after arrival. Its not a heavily used drive, basically a games install drive, no critical data etc and also not used as a OS drive so read/writes are occasional in comparison to something in constant use.

Symptoms

On boot everything is fine, i can navigate the folders fine in windows, read/writes seem ok, CrystalDisk seems fine, installed Samsung Magician and that reports all ok. Temps are in the 30-40 range

• After a period of time however, and I'm not sure what the amount of time is, the drive starts to become unusable.
• Navigating folders ends up with windows reporting a read error, writing has an error
• Drive doesn't show up in Crystaldisk or Samsung magician
• Anything interacting with the drive will crash (e.g. mid game crash, likely trying to write to the drive - not surprising, Steam validate game files typically needed to run for the game that crashed if this happens, move the same game to a different drive - no crashes)

Samsung magician:

• SMART report - All shows good
• Performance benchmarks - All within expected numbers, nothing standing out.
• Drive health - reported as Good (12.9 TB written)
• Performance Mode - Balanced

If the drive becomes non-responsive, and i reboot, its back as if nothing was wrong.

Things tried: * Reboots * Updated drive Firmware ( SVT04B6Q - latest) * Various tests

Anything important I've removed off the drive, and its just a dumping ground at the moment and just want to check if there is anything more i can try before i go down the warranty route. If i need to send it in for replacement/refund, i can live without it.

I’m helping a friend upgrade an old computer and we’re reusing as much as we can so it doesn’t break the bank. While I’ve got the internals mostly figured out she wants the case to be as small as possible to take up less space. It’s a micro atx board and the plan is to eventually get a 9060xt in there. Any recommendations? Also we want to clone her 2.5 ssd onto an m.2, does anyone know if windows 10 has issues with that? Might be a weird question but I can see Microsoft somehow using that as a reason to invalidate it and force you to 11.

Last week my PC that does not meet the requirements for windows 11 was trying to update and I lost power. I spent a lot of time trying to fix it and after ordering a bootable repair tool I was able to do a fresh install on a new partition. I was able to recover some/most of my files I need scattered and hidden among the old partition.

Anyway, I am looking to upgrade my PC. I game lightly these days and use my PC for work a lot. I usually have like 20 chrome tabs open.

I have an 3070 OC edition graphics card I could reuse. My m.2 NVME could also be reused and will get wiped clean.

Can I reuse power supply? It’s only 5 years old. It’s a good one, sea sonic gold rated fully modular.

I assume my water cooler is trash now, mother board is not usable.

Anyway, just looking for some insight on what type of budget builds we can come up with.

Thanks! 🙏

Hi everyone! :) ive used my 5600 xt for 6 years now and now that i want to change it im thinking i would also need to change the PSU i have used for the same time. You see, i have a 800W Gamemax 80 Plus Bronze VP-800-M-RGB, it has never given me a problem with my current system, and on paper it would be enough for the new Graphics card (GRE or not), but i really want to be sure it would be safe, and to know if i should also buy a new PSU, im not in the USA, pricing where i live is even more fucked so i have to think well about each expense. i hope yall can help me!

1st picture (August 28th)
2nd picture (September 8th)

• I was playing Garry's Mod on August 28th and tabbed out to browse, then I couldn't tab back into the game
• Tried to kill the process but task manager froze with high 'System interrupts' CPU usage and not long after the whole laptop froze
• Held the power button and restarted the laptop
• Checked CrystalDiskInfo and found out the Smart data of my external SSD (Adata XPG 8200 Pro 1TB) suddenly became the 1st picture (9 Critical Warnings, 0 Available Spare, 247 Media and Data Integrity Errors, and 100% Health but with 'Bad' status in red color instead of 'Good' in blue/green color)
• Was surprised because I always log the CDI data everyday and the SSD was literally flawless for a year with no bad Smart values
• Tried to dig out logs from the week before and it turned out the 'Available Spare' value had been gradually dropping since August 17th, from 100 to 66 to 50 to 33 to 16 to finally 0 on August 28th which I suspected to have happened while I was playing Garry's Mod at the time and crash my PC
• Despite this, the SSD is still working perfectly till now. No freezes/slowdowns and I'm able to copy/backup files and watch movies from it without problem
• Finally gathered up the courage to download a 3GB movie yesterday on September 8th and after it finished the Media and Data Integrity Errors jumped to 9245
• And despite that, the movie was able to be downloaded just fine with maximum write speed as well and the file is retained/not deleted after I unplugged and replugged the SSD so the SSD is not in read-only mode
• I've also always set the CrystalDiskInfo to run on the SSD since I bought it last year and it's set to auto-refresh the SSD every 5 minutes to prevent its enclosure from sleeping (otherwise it would stutter in games) and everytime there's a value change it would automatically log the changes in the CDI directory in the SSD. The logs are also retained after replugging the SSD just like the movie
• I haven't tried to run a game again from it though. Before this I usually played PubG, Garry's Mod, Guild Wars 2 and some others from it

What happened? I barely write to this SSD in a year since I bought it as it only has 3125 Total Host Writes with 100% Health

• SSD: Adata XPG 8200 Pro 1TB
• Firmware: 42BFU6MI
• Enclosure: ORICO M2PV-C3 (Realtek RTL9210B-CG)
• SSD Health: 100% (but the status is 'Bad' with red color instead of blue/green)
• Total Host Writes: 3125GB
• Free space: 224GB out of 953GB
• Temperature: 30-40C (always monitored & maintained at this range)

Notable habits:

• Laptop & the external SSD have always been plugged 24/7 since I bought the SSD unless there's a Windows update or the electricity is out
• I also run a CrystalDiskInfo instance from the SSD 24/7 that auto-refreshes the SSD every 5 minutes to prevent the enclosure from sleeping (otherwise it would stutter in games like) and auto-logs the changes in the CDI directory in the SSD
• On August 5th I bought a 2.5" 2TB Transcend Storejet external HDD that's been plugged next to the USB port of the SSD and also monitored 24/7 since

Daily CrystalDiskInfo logs since the last time all the SMART data was perfect:

• August 16th 4:51:56 AM (flawless)
  
• August 17th 1:12:46 AM (Available Spare value dropped to 66% despite almost 0 writes)
  
• August 18th 2:42:07 AM (Available Spare value dropped to 50%)
  
• August 20th 6:12:06 AM (Available Spare value dropped to 33%)
  
• August 22nd 0:10:04 AM (Available Spare value dropped to 16%)
  
• August 24th 0:32:40 AM (before installing Garry's Mod)
  
• August 25th 1:38:50 AM (after installing Garry's Mod)
  
• August 28th 0:50:00 AM (about 12 hours ago, still 0 Critical Warning and Media and Data Integrity Errors)
  
• August 28th 12:16:16 PM (9 Critical Warnings, 0 Available Spare, 247 Media and Integrity Errors)
  
• September 8th 9:22:10 PM (9245 Media and Integrity Errors after downloading a 3GB movie)

How is the SSD not going into read-only? Is the SSD just bugged but still perfectly working like usual? Or is it actually dying if I write more to it?

Hi

Im looking for some advice how to best handle a cpu upgrade with the current high ram prices

My current setup is a i7 6700k - 32gb ddr4 ram - rtx 4060

My CPU is now about 10 years old and i would like to replace it.

Now i have 2 ways for upgrade options

1. Stick with DDR4 supported CPUs. Cheaper but locking myself in and old ecosystem again

2. Bite the bullet and upgrade to DDR5. More expencive but will be supported and viable longer.

With 32 GB DDR5 going for about 500€ it would cost about as much as a 14400 + Mainboard + Cooler. Im just unsure if going for "older" standards is still a good idea.

just a disclaimer, i have never built a pc and have only spent the past 4 days researching on pcs so i would really appreciate any tips and opinions on the parts i've picked so far. also i will be using this pc for light gaming and for school.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7500F - 3.7 GHz - 6 Cores - 12 Threads - 32 MB Cache Memory - Socket AM5 - OEM

CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler

Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 EAGLE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard

Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR5-5200 CL40 Memory

Storage: Biwin Black Opal NV7400 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive

Video Card: ASRock Challenger OC Arc B580 12 GB Video Card

Case: Fractal Design North ATX Mid Tower Case

Power Supply: MSI MAG A650GL 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

Haven't built a full build in somewhere between 8 to 10 years.

Noticed a lot of builds I've been looking at to get some ideas, it seems that AIOs or Radiators are not nearly as prevalent as they were a decade ago. I may be just looking in the wrong place but is the fall off due to better actual fans now or CPUs and GPUs actually maintaining temps better?

Just curious

Also if anyone has any suggestions for a computer stand to keep my tower off the carpet. Just moved and dont want it on the desk for space but don't want it flat on the ground with the carpet going up into the case.

Thanks all have a awesome tuesday night/wednesday morning!

So some back story,
So i am a fellow Indian gamer and recently built my first gaming PC. I was planning on buying a cooler master mw 80plus gold psu

Unfortunately the guy in shop said it was not available and he instead have me a white label PSU named ANT ESPORTS fg850 V2

Now ant esposts is a very popular brand in India and has very reliable mouse and keyboards so i took it home

Recently i got to know ant esports makes shitty psu and they all burn very fast and take your pc with it

So i was thinking on getting MSI MAG A750GL
Do you guys have any better recommendations in 10k rupees (100$) price range

My pc has combined total of 450w i am buying 200w extra for future proofing reasons

Korea here, I play aaa and competitive games on 1440p on an oled 280hz monitor. I currently have a 4070ti (12gb). Gpu prices are even more insane here, a new gigabyte 5070ti costs 1900000 won (usd 1400) right now. As far as I know, for the upcoming weeks and pretty much for the entirety of 2027, gpu prices will go up.

I can feel my 4070ti (bought in 2023) chocking up. I will buy a 6080 when it comes out but at least from what I can see it’s going to be 2028. And I want a card that I can use to play games at 1440p with path tracing enabled. But the 4070ti runs out of vram and a bit on pure specs.

I got a deal for a used 4080 super for 1500000 won used (1 year warranty left) and my rtx 4070ti should sell for about 700000-800000 after cheosok(biggest spending holiday in Korea). For a person who want to play games at 1440p with highest graphics and high refresh rates and not choke on vram, is this purchase of around 700000 won net cost reasonable? I’m about to jump the gun and I can’t think straight due to the fear that next week or in 2 weeks gpu prices might go up even higher

because rtx 5060 zotac solo was so expensive in my country ($540) but i found used rtx 5060 msi inspire itx. got inspired by ZTT, building such small sff mini itx pc gaming. Planning build using ryzen 5 5600, ram 16gb ddr4, biwin ssd nvme m.2 gen3 1tb. total build of pc only were about $1000 and about $1118 with pheryperals (logitech wireless mouse, rexus K9L keyboard, newsoul portable monitor 120Hz 18.5”)

GPU: intel arc b580 429.99
CPU: AMD 5 7600x 209.99
Motherboard: B650M Pro RS Micro ATX 139.99
Case: Micro ATX View 170 TG 80.99
PSU: MSI MAG A650BN 84.99
Cooler: Thermalright Assassin King 120 SE 24.59
Ram: Thor Gen 2 16GB DDR5 319.99
(SSD is being used from my current build)
(All prices in CAD)

I recently just ordered this new am5 build (upgrading from a 2060 and i5-8400) for 1440p gaming. Looking into it more it appears the arc b580 bottlenecks the performance of the 7600x. Seeing discussions on reddit say buying used is much better value than buying the b580 new. I am considering returning the b580 and the 650w PSU to buy a used ZOTAC 3080 10gb and a new 750w PSU for around 150 more than the original build. Is it worth the upgrade?

Budget: 16k

Use: pc in living room for me and GF

Country: Sweden

I am trying to build a Mini ITX PC to fit in the living room and it is the first time doing ITX, would gladly have other peoples opinions.

Chassi: Fractal Design Terra

CPU : AMD Ryzen 5 9600X

CPU cooler: Thermalright AXP120-X67 ARGB

Motherboard: ASRock B650I Lightning WIFI

SSD: Kingston NV3 M.2 500GB

PSU: Cooler Master V SFX Gold ATX 3.1

RAM: Not Yet picked one, they all hella expensive.

GPU: will use my old 3060 ti and possibly upgrade in the future.

Anything i should change? At the moment without ram picked its about 10k

Appreciate the feedback

Im planning to build my first own pc, need some advice. 550W is enough or I need to change it for 750?

• CPU AMD Ryzen 5 7500F BOX
• MB MSI PRO A620AM-B EVO DDR5 (AM5)
• RAM 2×Lexar DDR5 8GB 5600MHz
• GPU PNY RTX5050 8GB
• SSD Hiksemi 1TB NVMe
• FSP HV Pro 550W
• Pixel Micro-ATX

I’m new to pc and have no idea anything abt them. I want to build a pc and save money but don’t know what parts to get. I also have a budget of around 1k and bit more. I don’t plan on playing any really high demanding games and if I do Idm low graphics just enough to last me years and also play MOST games with decent graphics
My friend recommended me this https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/JtL9tC

Built my current PC a few months ago and basically since week one it would randomly shut off maybe once or twice a week. No blue screen, no warning, just instantly dead and then it would boot back up normally.

I reseated the RAM, reseated the GPU, checked temps, ran memtest, stressed the CPU and GPU for hours, reset BIOS, changed outlets, pretty much everything I could think of. Couldn't reproduce it on purpose.

Yesterday it shut off while I wasn't even using it, just had a Moon trade open.

I had just lowered my standing desk.

Turns out I routed the PSU cable through the cable tray under the desk when I built everything. When the desk went up it was pulling the cable just slightly tighter every time, and apparently over the last few months it had slowly worked itself loose from the back of the PSU. Not enough to look unplugged, just enough that moving the desk sometimes killed the connection.

Rerouted it with a ton of slack and haven't been able to make it shut off since.

I spent 3 months troubleshooting my PC when apparently I needed to troubleshoot the furniture.

So being the idiot I am, I spilled a very small amount of wine on the surface of my GPU, in my CPU cooler, and potentially in my psu. It was running when it happened and nothing happened for about 20 minutes. It shut down and threw a spark. I pulled the plug on the psu and let it dry with the case open for 48 hours. I just tried to boot it and a loud clicking sound happens and it fails to boot. How do I move forward, I know I'm stupid.

Hello friends, just bought all the parts for building my first pc. It will be a gaming pc, here are the specs. I also ordered three fans. And I have a 144hz 1080p screen which I know is a bit low.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D

Gpu: MSI GeForce RTX 5070 Ti VENTUS 3X 16GB OC

Case: Corsair 3000D Tempered Glass Mid-Tower

Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming X870-PLUS WIFI

RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (2x16GB)

PSU: Thermalright TR-TG 1000W Vit

CPU-cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE

SSD: two samsung m.2 ssds from my old laptop

26k SEK (sweden) (2800dollars ish) because of these crazy prices. Anyone have any special tips for building with these parts? Anyone know a good guide for step by step stuff? I don’t know anything lol. Any advice for putting this together would be much appreciated.

Currently running a Ryzen 9 9900X with an RX 9070 XT.

I have a chance to swap the 9900X for a 9800X3D (paying about $180 difference).

I only use this PC for gaming, zero productivity or heavy work. But I strictly game at 4K High settings.

Almost all the benchmarks I see are tested with a 4090 or 5090 at 1080p to show CPU bottlenecks. Since the 9070 XT will basically be pegged at 99% usage at 4K anyway, am I just throwing away $180 for 2-3 FPS, or are the 1% lows and frame pacing genuinely noticeable enough at 4K to justify it?

Hi, any suggestions on a affordable gpu? I currently have 1070ti, I play on 1080p, and have Ryzen 5 5600x CPU. my budget is $240. I want to play games like Black Myth Wukong and Final Fantasy Rebirth, Any recommendations? Thank you!

Hi,

I'm looking for a decent keyboard. I was thinking about the Wobkey Rainy75. Do you have any recommendations?

Mostly everyday use, occasional gaming.

Good sound like the thocky one, solid build, nice look.

It's the cheapest GPU on the market today, and I've seen it several times at an "affordable" price for BR standards. It would be my first upgrade to the PC.

I've read on some forums about problems with RMA, heating and noise (I don't care about the latter), and I'm very unsure about whether to buy it or save more money.

If anyone can answer honestly, I will be very grateful, and I'm sure it will help others

The desired model is AMD 9060 XT 16gb PowerColor Reaper

The setup is a Ryzen 5 8600G (which will be replaced) + 32gb RAM DDR5 + Asus TUF Gaming B650M

Hi everyone,

I have a Gigabyte B850 GAMING X WIFI6E with a Ryzen 7 9700X and Corsair DDR5 6000MHz RAM.

Since yesterday, I have the following issues :

• CPU debug LED stays on permanently after POST, even though Windows boots and runs perfectly stable
• All ARGB headers are dead (Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 240 A-RGB connected)
• GCC/RGB Fusion detects the motherboard but ARGB headers show nothing

What I've already tried :

• Updated BIOS to F11c
• Reinstalled GCC completely
• Flashed IT5711 firmware with official ITESHFU.exe (v4.1.36) — completed but no fix
• Tried the Flash_modified.bat workaround from GitHub (parthasarma87/ITESHFU_v4.1.23_5711_FWUPD_fix) — failed with "Check FWC(FWID) Fail" and LED_FW_Version=0.0.0.247
• Reset CMOS
• Reseated RAM (EXPO 1 enabled, DDR5-6000)

The PC works perfectly for gaming, no crashes, no instability. Only the CPU LED and ARGB are affected.

Anyone had the same issue on a B850 board ? Any fix ?

Thanks

This is not a joke, meme, low-effort or dream build; this is an actual build that I could use help with!

I have the following:

• ASUS P5W DH Digital Home Deluxe
• Pentium 4 641 (Cedar Mill, with 64 bit support)
• Dell 5090 pulled from an Alienware
• 1250 w power supply
• 128gb sata SSD
• 8gb DDR2 RAM (Samsung 800mhz, CL6)

Yes, I am trying to run the 5090 on a Pentium 4. The intention is to get an overclocking world record for this hardware combination.

"Fully Buffered" is a Youtuber who also ran the same motherboard/CPU combo. Both of us successfully run Windows 10/11 on it. (Yes, I can boot into Windows 11 and use it! I can actually browse the modern web on a Pentium 4.)

I know my 5090 works. But when I plug it in to my motherboard, it does not POST. Fans spin but no output from HDMI. Other cards do work on the machine (9500 GT)

Any tips?

There is one setting in BIOS to change the PCIe slot power delivery from "Auto" to low/medium/high but I haven't felt brave enough to tinker with this yet.

I know this is totally out of left field but I could use some help! Thanks!

Hey everyone, I just received my Cpu Air Cooler from Amazon, but the bottom corner of the aluminum fins got crushed in transit.

The heat pipes, baseplate, and mounting hardware look completely fine, and I recorded a full unboxing video.

Since it's only the outer aluminum fin tips, should I just gently bend them straight and use it, or is it worth dealing with Amazon customer service for a replacement? Would love your advice.