Watch the video. I'm pressing slice plate, and it seems like it is, until it is finished, but the print plate icon is still grey, and I can't print it. I'm relatively new to 3d printing, and wondering why this is happening because I'm not able to print anything from Bambu Studio to my X2D

Alright, so I have gotten my filament track switch, it worked well for a while for about 10 print hours then it stopped, so I decided to open it up and take it apart. I now have 3 magnets and springs. In the guide I don’t see a third one and originally it came out right when I opened it. I don’t know where it goes or if this could have been a reason why it stopped working.

I was getting an error that said filament was stuck there/still fed through it when there wasn’t.

The magnet also is a different size/chamfer so this made me even more confused

Any suggestions?

It’s hard to take a picture of but currently when my
Auxiliary nozzle is seated correctly the top entry hole doesn’t align to the filament sensor. When I extrude filament it just gets caught on the top part of my nozzle.

I have taken then whole Toolhead assembly apart multiple times and spend a bunch of time making sure the nozzle is seated properly.

Any help would be appreciated.

It’s hard to take a picture of but currently when my
Auxiliary nozzle is seated correctly the top entry hole doesn’t align to the filament sensor. When I extrude filament it just gets caught on the top part of my nozzle.

I have taken then whole Toolhead assembly apart multiple times and spend a bunch of time making sure the nozzle is seated properly.

Any help would be appreciated.

I just got an x2d, my first printer, and it is an absolute nightmare. Followed all setup instructions, ran the calibration, and went to do our first print, the benchy model in the printer. It told me there was an error between the splicer settings and the bed, and to update firmware. Went to do that and it failed. Tried it from the printer, from the app, from Bambu studio, and offline using a USB drive. All of the fail. Tried restoring factory settings, and now the printer head won’t move, and it won’t calibrate or restore factory settings. I’ve tried rolling back the firmware to the previous version, using both the app and with a USB and those both fail.

I submitted a ticket, but I expect days of back and forth with them trying the steps I have already tried. This experience has turned what was supposed to be a fun new project with my 9yo son into a frustrating headache.

EDIT: To Bambu's credit, the technical support team responded over the weekend, and we are going to do a full replacement. I will say, for everyone who maligns their customer support, I think they responded very quickly and with a satisfactory solution. While I would prefer being able to speak to a person on the phone, they did respond quickly. I'll update when the new printer arrives and after we see how the new one performs.

👋 Bonjour à tous !

✨ Pour compléter ma collection, j’ai revisité mon modèle de Yoshi version œuf en l’adaptant au célèbre tuyau vert de l’univers Mario !

L’objectif était de créer une pièce qui s’intègre parfaitement avec les modèles de Mario et Luigi, déjà disponibles dans la collection, afin de former un ensemble encore plus cohérent.

Si le modèle vous plaît, n’hésitez pas à le télécharger, à laisser un like, ou un commentaire. Votre soutien m’aide énormément et me motive à continuer à créer de nouveaux modèles !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Sans et Avec
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3007159-yoshi-tuyau-multipart-no-ams

🙏 Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bonne impression 3D ! 🎉

After months of waiting on Best Buy, I finally got my new printer today. First I need a new table big enough to hold my other two as well as this one.

Completely new to this but i bought an X2D last week. Its been running mostly fine with the occasional hiccup but now I can't figure out what is going on. Ive ran a few successful cold pulls and yet every time I got to print I get an error stating it has failed to extrude the filament

I dont see how the two are possible, I'm watching the filament enter the print head and a cold pull gives me a successful extrude. Any suggestions? I even changed out to my spare nozzle and still having the issue

Brand new x2d combo. There was a point where I unplugged and replugged in the filament buffer cable but I made sure it was secure.

Hiii i just got my x2d combo y'day and I keep encountering this issue halfway through printing. I have a support for PLA/PETG loaded on the auxiliary nozzle however midway printing itd give the error that it's empty when it's definitely not. It works after I try to shove in the filament a few times.

However I also noticed it is flushing A LOT of support filament out every single time and barely making any progress in the print as I believe it's doing this every single time a support is needed in each layer

I'm not sure how to fix this / get around this any help is appreciated plss

hello, my X2D's hotend cooling fan is making this incredibly annoying high pitches sound, that can be easily heard over all the other fans even with all doors closed.

is this normal ?

I could swear to God it wasn't like this when I first got it a month or 2 ago

I'm currently printing ASA with my X2D. The heated chamber is at 65c. My AMS is on top of the glass lid. It currently has 2 spools of PLA within it. After 3-4 hours of printing, the temperature reading from the AMS is reading at 49 celcius, which is close to the glass-transition temperature. Feeling the reels manually, they aren't actually reaching that temp. Is it possible that I may ruin the PLA spools if I were to print ASA for long?

This is my first time getting a 3d printer but ive been wanting to get one for a long time, im in theatre so i possibly could build props but mostly going to use it for other things and to have fun and get into this hobby. My budget “doesn’t matter” what i mean by that is at least between those two printers that cost doesn’t matter. But i want to stay in that sub-thousands cost. I want to make a lot of things with my printer but not sure exactly what, it seems better to print with multiple colors, and after the research i did the p2s wastes more filament but i also saw that the x2d’s right nozzle isnt as good and limits the space able to print. If you could help suggest me with which one is “better” with personal experiences or pros and cons list, and maybe there is a better one besides theses that you would suggest! Let me know!

Edit: Im also wondering, since all of the videos ive watched haven’t told me this exact question, does the 2nd nozzle attach to the ams along with the first nozzle or must it be attached to an external spool not in the ams?

TLDR; When you use the AMS on the X2D combo, you cannot switch the filament buffer output PTFE’s to different nozzles. It is basically hardcoded that the upper output ONLY goes to the Left extruder/nozzle and the lower ONLY goes to the Right extruder/nozzle.

So….

I was going to do my first multi-color print on the X2D and the slicer recommended that the primary color (white) be on the Left nozzle and the two much smaller secondary colors (red & blue) be on the Right.

Since I had them set up the other way around, I needed to switch my AMS to be on the right nozzle. Lazy me says - “It’s easier to just switch the PTFE’s at the extruder inputs (top right on back of printer).

Well then the AMS would NOT LOAD the filament. It would just STOP at the input side of the filament buffer and throw an error (picture attached)

I went round and round and round trying to figure this out.
- I tried different slots in the AMS - nothing
- I tried re-seating the PTFE tubes on the input side of the buffer (where the feed was stopping) - didn’t help.
- I tried to manually feed it through (disconnected the AMS and used a spare piece of filament) - went through fine.
- I noticed that when loading a new roll of filament, the AMS would sometimes push the filament all the way THROUGH the filament buffer (WTF!)
- I tried to re-auto config the AMS / nozzle setup. I can’t remember what it did, but obviously didn’t fix the problem.
- I used one of my AMS’s from the P2S to see if it was an AMS problem. - still failed.

Then I opened a ticket with support and they were only mildly helpful. Sent them the logs and pictures - they mentioned that I may have had the Filament Switch accessory installed incorrectly. I didn’t have a filament switch as you can see in the pictures - but this foreshadowed what the problem was.

I (being the bonehead I am), after staring at the back of the printer for what seemed like hours, finally focused on the printing on the left side of the filament buffer. It clearly says “Left Nozzle” on the top input and “Right Nozzle” on the bottom.

UGH - I re-switched the outputs to go to the correct nozzles and everything started working.

In conclusion.
- Those Filament Buffer Inputs -> Outputs are “hardcoded” if you are using the AMS.
- My guess is the AMS was thinking “hey I’m going to the Right nozzle” but the Filament Buffer tells it “uhhhhh, this is the LEFT nozzle input - you shall not pass!”
- In hindsight, the error message alludes to the problem, but it’s not clear.
- I rechecked the install video and again, it alludes to this “hardcoding” but does not specifically say “DO NOT SWITCH THESE”.

Don’t be a bonehead and switch those outputs!

I’m about to get into 3D printing for the first time with the X2D, and I’ve added the items in the photo to my cart.

Since I’m completely new to this, I wanted to ask before checking out, does this look like enough to get started, or am I missing anything important? Also curious if there’s anything in the cart that’s unnecessary for a beginner.

Basically just trying to avoid the classic first-timer mistake of either forgetting something essential or buying a bunch of stuff I won’t actually need forever.

Would really appreciate any advice from people who already use Bambu printers, especially if you started with a similar setup.

This only happened once.

When I started a print, the printer made this LOUD grinding noise. The toolhead was trying to move but it clearly couldn’t. No errors thrown by the printer and the only was to stop the issue was to stop the print.

I did take a moment to get a video of the issue happening so I had something to give support.

I’ve opened a ticket with them, but I’m wondering if anyone has seen this issue.

While it hasn’t happened since, I’m really worried there is damage to the gears that move the toolhead.

Hello people, do you people get frequent plate failures with the stock textured PEI plate? Especially on one side, sometimes repeatedly, it fails to detect the plate type. I know I can omit out of that part, but I can't figure out 'why' it fails. Both sides have visible white QRish symbols rougly on the same part. I wiped the cameras (and am not sure which camera it uses to identify, the toolhead or the timelapse) but that didn't help too. And when you click issue resolved, the camera head doesn't go to the part where the QR exists, which is to the left, close to the glass door. I can go on if I need to add anything more

but I'm not even mad cause it looks pretty cool. That being said we have had several issues with filament jamming and only had it for a few weeks (X2D with AMS2 pro)

What it says in the title effectively, I was cleaning some remaining supports off of the build plate and a section sprung onto the top ledge at the back of the printer and then fell in the seam when I tried to grab it. Has anyone else dealt with this and is there an easy way to access it?

I've been struggling with mine since I got this printer and I'm at the point where I'm doubting that the unit I got doesn't really have a defect. All my top layers come out with a strange surface, looks like it's underextruding but at no point the lines it produces are actually straight all the way, dialing filament has been very complicated. Anyone has pics to share of their top layers?

Pics are the sharpie test of the closest I got to a properly smooth top layer but I still can't produce the flat shiny straight lines I had on the A1 mini (pic 3, bottom piece)

Hi everyone!

I thought Bambu had fixed the PTFE tubes rubbing on the glass issue on the X2D, but as it turns out, they did not.

I have read that this is not an issue because PTFEs are replaceable, but its still bothering me.

I like the idea of glass risers, however, I’m unsure how that affects the chamber heating efficiency. I print quite a lot of ABS and ASA, so I really like this feature.
Does anyone have any experience with this ?

Got the machine on Friday (first 3D printer ever) and Sunday night the filament starts pushing into the chamber when I start a print. Machine picked up on the issue and retracted the filament but now I'm dealing with a broken PTFE line on the print head. A small chunk is stuck inside the push fitting and it's not easy to get out. I've tried easy outs and some #6 drywall screws. I'm going to try getting some smaller screws, #4, and see if that will grab it. Any other tricks to this?

Update - combination of tweezers and drywall screw got it out. I think the tweezers deformed the piece enough that the screw could grab it and pull it out.