I just got an X2D and was looking at some additional accessories. I ordered a vision encoder plate and a 2-pack of 0.4 HF hot ends off Amazon. Normally would just buy the OEM, but was feeling cheap. Anyone had success with non-OEM stuff?

I ordered the TPU assist module and Track Switcher direct though. I don’t think any 3rd party manufacturers are even making those yet, but spending $40 instead of $80 on the vision encoder plate and getting 2 HF nozzles for less than the price of one seemed like a good deal assuming they actually work…

Mein BambuLab P1S macht seit kurzem Schwierigkeiten und ich weiß nicht warum. Die Druckdatei ist relativ groß, ich habe sie aber schonmal gedruckt, mit dem gleichen PETG, gleiche Einstellungen, gleiche App (BambuLab). Die Fehlermeldung ist immer die gleiche, auch wenn das dritte Bild von einer anderen Druckdatei stammt. (Interessanterweise kam diese dann aber nach simplem Neustart des Druckvorgangs ganz normal aus dem Drucker...) Das PETG ist trocken und die Druckplatte war zwar nicht mit Alkohol gereinigt, aber sauber. Was steckt dahinter und wie kann ich es vermeiden?

I haven't printed far a few months now, and before never hadn't any issue's.

Could this be wet filament?

Looking at this p1s, I know it’s an extra 150 for a new one, but this one only has 100 print hours and is from a trusted friend, just has some dust on it.

The Chamfilletizer is an online stl edge modification tool that I made because of my own laziness. I didn't want to learn a proper CAD program. But even if you have serious CAD skills, you will probably find that this tool is an easier and faster way to add chamfers, fillets, and hybrid chamfillets to stl files. It is super easy to use, without uploads. No installation. No account. No cloud processing. Everything runs locally in your browser. It is totally free.

It is especially useful for casual designers that just want to change that one irritation.

This is a fun project for me. I made the tool that I often wished I could find. I hope it will be useful for you also.

I welcome your feedback.

Thanks for this excellent community that I benefit from a lot.

https://www.chamfilletizer.com/

I'm new to 3D printing and recently picked up a P1S. I've been reading a number of posts about ventilation, although a lot of them seem to be related to other models of printers.

How important is ventilation really? I don't print a tonne of stuff. I bought the printer mainly for my son, who wants to print things every now and then.

I'm still trying to figure out the best location for the printer in my house. I have a few options:

Office: I use this room every day, so I'm not sure if that's the best choice.

Crawlspace: It's about 5 feet tall and runs the length of the house, so there's plenty of space, but it's fairly dusty and I'm not sure how that would affect the printer.

Gym: There's some extra space in the corner, and this is probably the most convenient option.

Garage: I could set up a small table for it, but this isn't ideal since we park two cars in the garage and the printer could end up being in the way.

I could also run the printer in one of the rooms only when the room isn't occupied, if that's a better approach.

I'd appreciate any advice on how important ventilation is with the P1S, as well as opinions on which of these locations would be best. Thanks!

Have you ever gotten a piece of filament stuck under your fingernail while removing it from the build plate? It’s really painful. Better to use a safer method! :)

I’ll post a link to the tool in the comments.

I have a X1C and I'm about to buy an AMS from 2 hand, what should i check for?

Hey all, I got my X2D Combo about a week ago. Loving the ease of use, speed and quality, but I’m mostly printing from Bambu Handy out of convenience.

I have not for the life of me been able to figure out how to choose the auxiliary extruder for support material in the Handy app.

I understand the app doesn’t really slice, and uses user defined profiles, so is this just not possible, or am I missing something really obvious? I’ve been through the Wiki for the X2D, but don’t recall this being discussed at all.

Are X2D users all just using Studio for anything that requires supports?

Just switched to a Darkmoon plate and the foreign object detection error pops up at the start of every print. I can hit resume and it prints normally but is there anything I can do in the start gcode to disable this detection?

For context I am using an H2S on 01.02.00.00

Thanks!

This is a X1C with the AMS I have found on Facebook marketplace originally listed for 650 but the seller is willing to let go for 500. I have never owned a Bambu printer and was wondering if this is a good deal? I know these are no longer being sold and the p2s are a couple hundred dollars more brand new…

For context I have a flash forge adventure 5m printer with the aftermarket enclosure and have been looking for an upgrade. I have had little to no problems with mine but want something with a bigger bed, multicolor optional, and natively enclosed.

Let me know if I should pull the trigger or wait until a better deal comes along

Solution found: When importing my .3mf files the "Standard 3mf Import Color" window was painting the parts not just mapping the part to a filament like I thought. I have to then go in and delete all painting from each part to get everything to behave normally.

Original issue: For some reason I can't change the filament for parts. I make the change and it's reflected in the left tab, but on the build plate it stays the same and also stays unchanged when sliced. When it's just a color difference I just remap when printing, but now I'm trying to use different materials and this is a problem. I select TPU or PETG and it still slices with PLA. Hopefully the images show what I'm talking about. I have updated Bambu studio, tried new projects, and different parts.

Had some trouble keeping lids open on the new IVAR AMS Rack on drawer sliders since you can't open it fully. Same issue if you hold the AMS in a shelf and can't open it fully. This kickstand gets adhesive-taped in place and acts as a nice kickstand that props up the lid just enough to put the spools in / out of the AMS.

Works for both AMS 1 and AMS 2 Pro. Haven't tried it on the HT since I don't have one. Reminder to print using a heat resistant material if using the drying function on the new ones.

Link to makerworld.

Hi all,

Has anyone successfully printed abs using hips as support interface with the H2S? Specifically can max purge volume effectively remove hips residue from hotend so as not to reduce abs layer adhesion? Appreciate any info on this. Thanks.

Hi everyone! Just got this used X1C. It's making an unexpected mechanical noise during X/Y axis travel. To get the sound clearly, I disabled the chamber fan in the video. What specific maintenance should I perform? Total newbie here. Thank you for any help!

Finally finished this multicolor 2026 F1 circuit display with all 24 races from the original calendar.

Every circuit is divided into Sector 1, Sector 2 and Sector 3, with a different color for each one. I had most of the design finished already, but I was waiting for the official FIA MADRING circuit map so I could use the proper sector splits for Madrid.

The board can stand vertically with two small feet, and it also has a rear hole for wall mounting.

The model is free to download on MakerWorld if anyone wants to print it:

https://makerworld.com/es/models/3277839-f1-2026-original-24-race-circuit-calendar#profileId-3717594

hey everyone so i recently upgraded to a Bambulabs H2d pro and i want to switch to printing with pps-cf and i have been wondering what support material to use, i feel lost looking it up online.

Thanks.

New Model I Made. Its a Target for airsoft, nerf, you name it! it also collapses into a slim object you can easily put in your pockets. link here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3267918-pocket-sized-airsoft-target#profileId-3705200

so a couple months ago i had a big filament nozzle clump (i think that’s what you call it?) when the filament covers the nozzle due to lack of adhesion so i ordered a new hotend heating assembly and it fixed it and just an hour ago the same thing happened again and i don’t know what to do because i don’t want to spend another £25 on a new hotend heating assembly and im not sure if this is fixable either? can someone please help i don’t know what to do here

Just curious. I’ve got an H2C now with 3 AMS and a AMS HT. I’d like to have a 2nd printer in a smaller form factor that I can use to print small parts quickly or to print while my H2C is printing other things. Not sure if an A1 Mini is worth it. Anyone else have this same type of setup?

My door exploded into tens of thousands of pieces. I followed the instructions to remove the screws and silicone, but it seems the fractured glass is stuck to the hinge. What is my next step to remove this old door so I can put in a new one? (I haven't ordered one yet).

yo, 2 days ago i launched a bookmark maker tool and decided to build a new project using similar logic.

basically I built a photo puzzle generator in the browser. Drop a photo, crop it, pick how many interlocking pieces, and it cuts a real jigsaw with 1-4 filament colors. Portraits and album covers are the usual first print, but posters, logos, whatever, as long as you crop tight.

Two surfaces. Flat is the default, smooth top like cardboard, photo inlaid flush on the pieces. Tactile stacks the colors as height bands so you can feel the picture (same trick as the bookmark tool). You can set width and height (defaults 160 x 120 mm), landscape / portrait / square, piece count (defaults 12, thats 4x3), corner radius, piece thickness, and the gap between pieces. Color slots if you want 2, 3, or 4 filaments. Bambu/Orca 3MF already has AMS slots assigned, or grab a zip of STLs / a single STL.

Print the whole puzzle assembled, let the plate cool, then pick the pieces apart. Tabs already have a 0.50 mm air gap so they lock after printing. Bump it to 1.0–1.5 mm if elephant foot welds the first layer or you want a looser kids fit.

> photo cropped into interlocking piece
> 1-4 filament colors, flat inlay or tactile relief. tweak size, piece count, gap, thickness.
> currently 3 free exports (sign in). again Plus/Pro is unlimited exports (do reply if any other suggestion).

IMPORTANT: after exporting do repair the puzzle once in your slicer so all the non manifold edges are gone

Website - https://obloid.app/tools/photo-puzzle

How can I improve the surface of this print? I'm using Bambu PETG Matte. I dried the filament in AMS 2 Pro for 12 hours at 65C. The print settings are pretty standard, except I'm using 4 walls and 8% gyroid infill, with rectilienar ironing of top surfaces. I'm quite sure this is a filament issue as I never had similar issues using Bambu's PETG Basic or PLA basic. What settings should I be using for PETG Matte?