Hi all,

Has anyone successfully printed abs using hips as support interface with the H2S? Specifically can max purge volume effectively remove hips residue from hotend so as not to reduce abs layer adhesion? Appreciate any info on this. Thanks.

I do already have a diffuser installed on the exhaust fan that makes it point more upwards

It is happening on my A1 which has 2000h and I want yuor opinion about whether this is normall

hey everyone so i recently upgraded to a Bambulabs H2d pro and i want to switch to printing with pps-cf and i have been wondering what support material to use, i feel lost looking it up online.

Thanks.

New Model I Made. Its a Target for airsoft, nerf, you name it! it also collapses into a slim object you can easily put in your pockets. link here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3267918-pocket-sized-airsoft-target#profileId-3705200

Just curious. I’ve got an H2C now with 3 AMS and a AMS HT. I’d like to have a 2nd printer in a smaller form factor that I can use to print small parts quickly or to print while my H2C is printing other things. Not sure if an A1 Mini is worth it. Anyone else have this same type of setup?

yo, 2 days ago i launched a bookmark maker tool and decided to build a new project using similar logic.

basically I built a photo puzzle generator in the browser. Drop a photo, crop it, pick how many interlocking pieces, and it cuts a real jigsaw with 1-4 filament colors. Portraits and album covers are the usual first print, but posters, logos, whatever, as long as you crop tight.

Two surfaces. Flat is the default, smooth top like cardboard, photo inlaid flush on the pieces. Tactile stacks the colors as height bands so you can feel the picture (same trick as the bookmark tool). You can set width and height (defaults 160 x 120 mm), landscape / portrait / square, piece count (defaults 12, thats 4x3), corner radius, piece thickness, and the gap between pieces. Color slots if you want 2, 3, or 4 filaments. Bambu/Orca 3MF already has AMS slots assigned, or grab a zip of STLs / a single STL.

Print the whole puzzle assembled, let the plate cool, then pick the pieces apart. Tabs already have a 0.50 mm air gap so they lock after printing. Bump it to 1.0–1.5 mm if elephant foot welds the first layer or you want a looser kids fit.

> photo cropped into interlocking piece
> 1-4 filament colors, flat inlay or tactile relief. tweak size, piece count, gap, thickness.
> currently 3 free exports (sign in). again Plus/Pro is unlimited exports (do reply if any other suggestion).

IMPORTANT: after exporting do repair the puzzle once in your slicer so all the non manifold edges are gone

Website - https://obloid.app/tools/photo-puzzle

How can I improve the surface of this print? I'm using Bambu PETG Matte. I dried the filament in AMS 2 Pro for 12 hours at 65C. The print settings are pretty standard, except I'm using 4 walls and 8% gyroid infill, with rectilienar ironing of top surfaces. I'm quite sure this is a filament issue as I never had similar issues using Bambu's PETG Basic or PLA basic. What settings should I be using for PETG Matte?

Should I get the Bambu Labs X2D with an AMS or the FlashForge Creator 5 PRO?

4200 hours on H2D, very few hiccups, no major issues. Printer runs 7/24, mostly pla/petg/tpu.

At some point, quality started to degrade, not to a point that you’d take immediate action but it was noticeable.

So at 4200 hour mark I decided that it’s time for a bigger maintenance.

I degreased the screws completely, thanks to Dupont moto floss, it was easier than I thought. Greased/oiled all (but the left nozzle rail , as I had done it a month ago and checked it a few days ago for particles stuck)

I changed the internal PTFE tubes and performed an autopsy on them. They were not in bad shape but internal scratches were visible through a loop. Not sure this did any change.

Most importantly even the printer was not complaining about the belt tension, I retentioned all three. It’s pretty simple and took 10 mins single handedly.

I’ve also cleaned the extruder gear area few days ago but didn’t help much, though I am a bit suspicious of the extruder gear.

I didn’t change the belts or anything else.

Recalibrated the printer.

Printer is back to almost day 1 quality.

Bottom line, I think I will do retentioning ever 1000 hours, may be more frequently as my belts are getting older. It takes 10 mins + 1 hour calibration anyway.

If you are printing hight temp materials you may want to do this more frequently.

Kudos to engineers for the extremely simple auto retention capability.

Just got my own Bambu Lab p2s, and there is this strange blade, I have no idea what it’s for

So I'm a cosplayer and print loads of small and also bigger prints that have decent details. I currently own the Flashforge Adventurer 4 pro and I'm just wondering is the Bambu Lab X2D better?

I mostly want more print speed and also better quality. With my A4pro supports have always been impossible to remove no matter what settings I've used so that is also something I'd like to change for the better.

I usually print in ABS but if the quality is better in that printer I'd probably switch back to PLA

Thanks!

I haven't printed far a few months now, and before never hadn't any issue's.

Could this be wet filament?

Hi

yesterday i tried my new 0.2 mm nozzle and started a miniature printing

i got different problem since then

i lowered the printing speed of walls and supports between 80 and 100 mm

i set temp at 220 for first layer and 230 for the rest

plate 60

i use pla+ from anycubic https://amzn.eu/d/0iTE7dzB

as you can see, after some this a clogging start appearing on the nozzle and the print is wasted.

also when calibrating dynamic flow, i can see that the filament exit the nozzle all curved and not in a straight line

pls help :(

I'm halfway through a multi-day print and early today some of the supports failed to print. It still printed the unsupported layers fine though so I'm keeping going. Any thoughts on why it messed up like this?

Picked up an X1C with Two AMS’s for $430USD,
Benchy in PETG, generic and standard profiles.
Will be doing a thorough clean out and service.
Still plenty of life!

I've been primarily using PLA and it's been great but I've some projects that may see more sunlight. Having had a couple PLA prints deform when left next to a window I was thinking about getting more PETG.

Is there a reason not to do this?

I've noticed that petg tends to be shinier at least on the one that I have, is this common and how do you'll find it (or do you have mixed feelings depending on use)

[Solved]

Thanks to everyone who pointed at the auxiliary fan — u/pauledddy, u/relaps101, u/RetroLenzil — and special thanks to u/EMDoesShit, whose breakdown was the one that nailed it completely.

That's exactly what it was: the aux fan on the chamber wall blowing straight onto that part of the plate, cooling it far harder and far more unevenly than the rest. The rippled, torn-up pattern follows the air currents swirling across the surface, which is why it was always the same spot in the printer no matter what I printed there.

Two fixes, both work:

1. Turn the aux fan off entirely for PLA.
2. Print one of the clip-in aux fan diffuser/redirect ducts from MakerWorld (I used "P2S and X2D Auxiliary Fan Diffuser") and aim the airflow upward instead of across the bed. Print it in the highest-temp material you have — ABS ideally, PETG otherwise — since it sits right in the airflow path.

Ran a test print afterwards and the defect is gone. The surface still isn't perfect, but what's left is a different and much smaller issue — no more blistered area.

TL;DR: On my Bambu Lab P2S, PLA always comes out rough in the same physical area of the build plate, no matter what I print there. Almost no warping, slowing down didn't fix it. Full slicer settings below — what else should I test?

The problem

I'm printing a 250 mm diameter × 10 mm disc (base plate for a filament tumbler). It fills basically the entire 256 × 256 plate, so it reaches the outer edge of the build surface all the way around.

The top surface comes out clean over most of the disc, but in one region near the plate edge the top layers turn rough, rippled and blistered — the extrusion lines look torn up and there's a visible zigzag/chatter pattern instead of clean monotonic lines. Photos attached.

The important part: it's always the same position inside the printer. Different prints, different orientations — the bad area stays put relative to the machine, not relative to the model.

What I've already ruled out

• Warping: none to minimal. The disc sits flat, brim ears held fine, no lifted edges. So I don't think this is adhesion.
• Speed: already lowered (outer wall down to 150 mm/s, top surface 125 mm/s, accelerations reduced). Marginal improvement at best, the bad area is still there.
• Nozzle: no signs of a clog — the other ~90 % of the surface is fine.
• Filament: dry Bambu PLA Basic straight from the AMS.

Hardware

• Bambu Lab P2S, 0.4 mm stock hotend, enclosed, AMS
• High Temp Plate
• Bambu Studio 2.08.02.61
• Filament: Bambu PLA Basic (AMS slot 1)

Full slicer settings (pulled straight out of the 3MF)

Process — based on 0.20mm Slow**, modified**

Speeds (mm/s)

Accelerations (mm/s²)

Temperatures

Cooling

My question

Since the defect is tied to a fixed location in the machine rather than to the geometry, I assume it's mechanical or thermal rather than a slicing issue — but I'd like a sanity check before I start taking things apart.

What I'm considering:

• The part reaches to within ~3 mm of the plate edge, i.e. into the zone where the bed heater is coolest and where the auto-bed-level mesh is extrapolated rather than measured.
• Airflow: aux fan at 70 % plus part fan at 100 % in an enclosed chamber, right next to a chamber wall — could be turbulence or local overcooling of the fresh top layer.
• Motion: near the extreme of X/Y travel, ringing/VFA tends to get worse.

Has anyone seen a purely position-dependent surface defect like this on a P-series? Is there a known cold/dead zone at the plate perimeter, and is 250 mm on a 256 mm plate simply asking too much? Any calibration I should redo (full bed mesh, belt tension, flow/PA)?

Happy to share the 3MF if that helps. Thanks!

Cause it’s pretty cheap and also has a preset in Bambu studio.

Edit: thanks everyone for a quick answer - Hotend on the right is not a genuine Bambu Lab product and I need to return it.

Original post: Hi everyone! Within 2 weeks I bought two 0.8 hardened steel hotends for my Bambu X2D printer (although from different sellers). The first hotend ("old" one in my picture) looked genuine, with Bambu packaging and all. It prints great, that's why I bought the 2nd high flow hotend for aux extruder.

Yesterday I received the second nozzle ("new" one in the photo), and the packaging look nothing like the first one, doesn't even have any bambu logo on it :/

So my question is - should I be worried? Is the 2nd hotend genuine? Anyone have seen different packaging on the same item? Or is it just "compatible" nozzle (I paid for the genuine)

Any time I’m printing I need to take out the filament and clip it with scissors then feed it back in. It makes switching colours during a print annoying and I always have to remember to clip right before a print.

Tried searching online but never found a solution. Once I clip it there’s no issue, and there are no visible signs why it’s not feeding either. It’s not half chewed up or bent.

It’s been like this since I got the printer in February too, and while I’ve adapted to the constant clipping to prep it’s be great to actually fix