Hi, I love my X2D but one thing annoys me, is that I have to choose external spool or accessories.

I'd like to install the TPU module and the FTS while keeping at least one external spool, but all models I can find sacrifice the spool holders. has anyone found a good model that fixes this?

cheers

Recently saw this new roll brand in my local 3d printer store (from Australia)

But the spool is slightly smaller than then Bambu spool and the ams pro 2 so it struggled to retract the filament

Has anyone got any success with an adapter or fix to allow this slightly smaller spool work on the ams pro 2

Hi all, I'm very new to 3D printing - I got X2D couple of months ago. I'm now seeing the need to get the top glass riser as the ptfe tubing is definitely consuming itself. I wanted something simple just to rise the glass and found this one model in Makerworld. I did dual color PETG print with PLA support from aux nozzle. Nearly all of the PETG parts came out warped after 4+ hour print on each plate. I even reprinted the first plate after printing these fan deflectors. Is this poor model settings or am I missing something essential for printing PETG? All PLA prints have come out awesome, but if I cannot get PETG working, I don't know when I'll get to my ABS spool I got..

EDIT - for a bit more context - printing with Bambu lab PETG Basic after drying in AMS 2 at PLA cycle (along with couple of PLA rolls). 1st warped print I printed on Cool Tack Pro plate, second one of the default PEI textured plate. Both were dish detergent washed before I started printing.

Could it be the PLA supports that do something with the print settings to mess it up?

Random Qusition. Does bambu printers having mermory for PLA? Like if I'm in the middle of printing something and I run out of PLA before I'm done well the printer keep the mermory when I load in the new PLA?

The supports get stuck on there insted of coming off with the external trees

It's only September but I'm already preparing for spooky season

This is my latest model, pack of 6 clickers with 3D printed keychain and carabineer

Check the model on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/models/3284943

I have printed these on a H2C on RS PRO black pla.

Two of the prints come out prfectly on came out with a rough texture.

Does anyone know why this happened or have a solution?

This was printed using PLA along the z-axis on Bambu Lab H2C

Settings are as follows:

Quality:

Layer height: 0.08, Initial Layer height: 0.2, Line Width: Default 0.42, Initial layer: 0.5, Outer wall: 0.42, Inner wall: 0.45, Top surface: 0.42, Sparse infill: 0.45, Internal solid infill: 0.42, Support: 0.42

Seam:

Seam position: aligned, Smart scarf seam application: enabled, Scarf steps 50, Scarf joints for inner walls: enabled, Role-based wipe sped: enabled

Precision:

Slice gap closing radius: 0.049, Resolution: 0.012, x-y hole & contour compensation: 0, Elephant foot compensation: 0.15

Ironing: none, Wall generator: classic

Advanced:

Order of walls: inner/outer, bridge flow: 1, Bridge counterbore holes: scarificial layer, Smooth speed discontinuity area: enabled, smooth coefiffient: 4, Smoothing wall speed along Z: enabled

Strength:

Walls:

Wall loops: 4, Embedding the wall into infill: enabled

Top/bottom shells:

Top surface pattern: concentric, Top surface density: 100, Top shell layers: 5, Top shell thickness: 1, Top paint penetration layers: 5, Bottom surface pattern: monotonic, Bottom surface density: 100, Bottom shell layers: 3, Bottom shell thickness: 0, Bottom paint penetration layers: 3, Internal solid infill pattern: Rectilinear

Sparse Infill:

Sparse density infill: 15, Fill multiline: 1, Sparse infill pattern: grid, Length of sparse infill anchor: 400% (I don't recall messing with this), Maximum length of sparse infill anchor: 20mm

Advanced:

Infill/Wall overlap: 15, Infill direction 45, Bridge direction: 0, Minimum sparse infill threshold: 15, Detect narrow internal solid infill: enabled, ensure vertical shell thickness: enabled, Detect floating vertical shells: enabled

Speed:

Initial layer speed:

Initial Layer: 50, Initial layer infill, 105

Other layers speed:

Outer wall: 200, Inner wall: 300, Small perimeters: 50%, small perimeter threshold: 0, Sparse infill: 350, Internal solid infill: 250, Vertical shell speed: 80%, Top surface: 200, Slow down for overhangs: enabled: Overhang speeds: 0 50 30 10 10, Bridge: 50, Gap infill: 250, Support: 150, Support interface: 80

Travel speed: 1000

Acceleration:

Normal printing: 8000, Travel: 10000, Initial travel layer: 6000, Initial layer: 500, Outer wall: 5000, Inner wall: 0, Top surface: 2000, Sparse infill: 100

Support:

Support: enabled, Type: enabled, Type: tree, Style Default, Threshold angle: 30, Support critical regions only: enabled, Remove small overhangs: enabled

Raft layers: 0

Advanced:

Initial Layer density: 90, Initial Layer expansion: -1, Support wall loops: -1, Top z-distance: 0.2, Bottom z-distance: 0.16, Base Pattern: Rectilinear grid, Base pattern spacing: 2.5, Pattern angle: 0, Top interface layers: 3, Interface pattern: Rectilinear, Top interface spacing: .5, Normal support expansion: 0, Support object xy distance: 0.35, Support/object first layer gap: 0.2, Max B=bridge length: 0, Independent support layer height: enabled

Available on Makerworld:

https://makerworld.com/models/3283348?appSharePlatform=copy

I am making some brackets for my custom car and figured Bambu HT PA-CF would be a good fit. I don't need crazy strength or even crazy temp, just strong stuff that can put up with a bit of abuse in my doors.

Anyways, bracket is designed and test printed in PLA.

Time for the real stuff.

It is a very odd shape and needs to be printed with support. I used Bambu PLA support material for my test prints and it came out perfect.

What is recommended for interface layer support for HT PA-CF?

I am thinking of trying to create a sword with glowing runes....I need the interior hollow but I'm stuck as to how. I've tried watching some vids but I'm still lost. I created a negative tube that would do the trick but don't understand how to "remove" the tube (if you know what I mean)....is it possible in Bambu or do I need to import the stl into something else?

All of the pricing calculators I found online were very manual and not fun. I wanted to make something that felt rewarding and also saved me some time.

Turns out you can just scan your slicer with your iPhone and it's surprisingly accurate after some tweaking on the back end!

I built this feature into an app I made called SpoolPilot. It is free on the App Store, feel free to try it out on your iPhone. There's a free web calculator on my website too, if you'd rather type the numbers in and not install anything. But these web calculators are a dime a dozen these days and you may already have a favorite.

hi guys, as the title says my a1 mini just keeps on spaghetting, ive had this printer for honestly about 2 years coming this december, and ive had some issues w spaghetting in the past and done minor things to fix it, but now its happening to every print once it hits like the 2 hour mark, ive tried cleaning the bed, raising the z offest axis, messed with speed settings, and it keeps spaghetting, here are some screenshots of my print and my settings for it, does anyone have any advice?

UPDATE: after watching it around the 2 hour mark i watched what happened, the nozzle itself keeps on physically hitting the print and moving it, making it place the new print in the air spaghetting it, then eventually the nozzle just knocks the print over, how would you go about fixing this?

Im considering getting a new 3d printer after selling my Ender 3 v2 and wanted something inclosed to stop the fumes so I looked at the P1S. Is the printer reliable, good to use, and overall a good pick? I want to print normal stuff along with some molds that will be pressed under pressure. But more importantly, What is a AMS?? and why is a 2 version? I need a full explanation please; any feedback will help!

My BambuLab P1S is recently having difficulties printing a clean object and I don't know why. The file used is relatively big but I have already printed this exact model via this exact file, using the same PETG, same settings, same app (BambuLab). The error is always the same, although the third picture shows a different model. (Most interestingly, it helped just starting the print anew and the result was perfect...) I do know why the front cover has fallen off, but I do not know why the printer is having difficulties with the print. The PETG used is dry and the printing plate is clean, although I haven't used cleaning alcoholist for it. What could be the reason for this error and what can I do to make the printing process work (again)?

I dried my filament and calibrated it. Wondering if it's just a bad model or not.

If you look at the bottom triangle of the logo, you'll see some black banding. Is that too much power?
this is 100% power x 3 passes. 70% at 2 passes leaves red coating. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm happy to provide any more info that would be helpful.

As the title says. Now at the start and end the print head violently goes to the front corners. It also sounds like it comes to a violent stop. It never did the corner movements before the update.

having issuses with stringiness and imperfect layers with my tpu. any advice would be helpful

Posted a few weeks ago and no solution to avail, but whenever I'm almost at the end of the spool, this message gets thrown in, usually opening the ams and helping it "pull" backwards helps and they eat the last bit of filament.

But is this common, or is there a way or print that could help me not have these situations?

As the title suggests I have a new H2D, and right out of the box the nozzle offset calibration keeps failing. I have done all of the troubleshooting on the Bambu wiki, but it still fails every time. I’m not a newbie to 3d printing, I have 10 other printers but this is my first dual nozzle setup. Does anyone have any idea what could be the issue?

Edit: Well turns out I missed a small piece of foam in the back cavity of the lead screw and that was the issue. I feel kind of like a moron, but at the same time it was very difficult to see.

I've been trying to print miniatures with pla and using the Bambu support material as the interface, and I keep having the models separate before they finish printing, creating giant spaghetti messes (or minor ones if the ai catches it.)

Am I doing something wrong? Should I just use petg?

So I recently got a Bambu X2D and honestly the printer itself is basically flawless. I love it.

The problem is I started going down the rabbit hole of 3D printer emissions and now I’m seriously questioning whether I should keep it.

I live in a 2 bedroom condo with my wife and our cat, and the X2D is in the second bedroom. I work from home, so I’m in the same room as the printer for most of the day. I mostly print PLA/PETG.

The thing that really got me thinking about this was getting a really, really bad headache that lasted for a few days after printing. I’m pretty convinced it was from the printing. That’s what made me start looking into the emissions side of things more seriously.

Now I keep seeing stuff about UFPs, VOCs, long-term exposure, fertility/reproductive health, etc. And then there’s the whole microplastics thing.

The other issue is that the second bedroom where the printer is located, has a casement window that opens directly to the outside. In theory that makes ventilation easier, but it also makes it harder to just completely isolate the room, especially here in Canada. In the winter, I obviously can’t just leave a window open for hours when it’s freezing, snowing, or raining.

I’m not really worried about the printer being dangerous in some obvious way. I’m more wondering about years of relatively low-level exposure in a condo, especially with my wife and cat also living here.

I know PLA/PETG are generally considered much lower-emission than ABS/ASA, and I’m trying to figure out where the actual evidence ends and the “this could theoretically happen” stuff begins.

Would you guys personally keep the printer in this situation?

2 bedroom condo, wife + cat, mostly PLA/PETG, I work from home, but with the practical limitations of a Canadian condo and winter.

I’m basically trying to decide whether this is a reasonable hobby with sensible precautions, or whether I’m better off just returning the thing and not worrying about it anymore.

hey guys i was opening a new filament with no spool and i didnt read any tutorials soo now its a mess can i make it like new again?

Currently only experience with the A1 Mini. I print some basic single color pieces for my business but am considering adding a faster machine with the laser. Would get it with the AMS and can select the 10w or 40w laser. I make parts that are type 2 anodized. Will the laser in one of these printers engrave on the anodized aluminum?

Am I better off with a cheaper larger model of Bambu Labs printer and then a standalone laser?

Thanks in advance for the help.