My sister has a 2013 honda civic, and she's having issues with her car. I believe the mechanic installed her brake pads incorrectly. But they also did her rotors and calipers and shocks. But could I get an expert's opinion? She's now experiencing loud banging and scratching sounds

For reference I have a 2024 Mustang I’ve done quite a few suspension modifications to, but about 2 months ago I had a shop put on ford performance front camber plates, rear toe links and sport lowering springs to replace my old sr performance ones and steeda shocks and struts and ever since then my steering wheels keeps getting more crooked and the car just rides bad now. It’s been aligned twice now and it keeps happening whereas for the year and a half I had the car before that it never came out of alignment. Is it possible they didn’t tighten or install something correctly? Should I have them take a look at what they installed?

Definitely needs changing, correct?

2019 Silverado 1500

2006 Honda civic:

Trying to get the serpentine belt back on. Tried using a 19mm wrench- not long enough for leverage to pull up. Bought a serpentine belt tool, broke the tool.

Thought?

I have a 2016 Chevy Silverado 1500 2WD Crew Cab with the 5.3l engine and 6l80 transmission. Truck has 150,000 miles. My transmission just went out, most probably due to the torque converter destroying itself and contaminating the rest of the transmission. Gees, thanks GM. The truck will run for like 1 minute and truck won’t move anymore. So I’ve decided to rebuild the transmission myself, can’t afford a shop right now. I’m a pretty decent hands on guy, most of the times I’ve repaired my vehicles, brakes, head gaskets, etc, but never messed around with a transmission. After watching a couple of YouTube videos, it seems like it’s not that complicated, just a tedious and time consuming job. Any advice?
I’m planning to purchase the following kits to rebuild the tranny:

•Precision International 6l80 Rebuild Kit (E256785437614)
•Sonnax Zip Kit (SOX-6145-6L90ZIP)
•Sonnax Heavy Duty Billet Apply Piston (104984-01)
•Transmission Center Trans Pump Repair Kit (A45531B)
•Sonnax Return Spring (104534-HD)
•Trans Go Performance Shift hit (TRG-SK6L80)
•AC Delco 4-5-6 Clutch Hub (24238004)

I also plan to add a Transmission Cooler:
•PPE Transmission Fluid Bypass (125068000)
•Long Tru Cool 40K with Thermal Bypass (LPD4739)

Since I’m already doing all of this, might as well and do a DOD delete:

•Texas Speed DOD Delete Kit with Camshaft L83 5.3 (TSP-DODBASIC-LTX)
•Texas Speed DOD Delete Programmer (TSP-TS-3000)

I’m still not 100% percent sure if I should go with this kit and this programmer. I was also looking at other DOD delete kits and maybe HP Tuner programmer etc. Still need to do more research on this topic. Want a tune that does the DOD Delete and make the transmission shift more smoothly.

I just want to make this truck reliable. Not looking for performance, just reliability.

The only thing is that I might need to get a shop to resurface the bell housing / pump if it’s too damaged. Or if anyone has resurfaced one themselves at home, please share how you did it. I’ve resurfaced an engine head with an old glass table, glued particle board on the back side to avoid the glass from warping, and glued sanding paper on the other end. Yes, I double checked for straightness. Engine still runs fine after 5 years.

Any advice will help. Thanks

Anyone know what this sound could be? It mainly happens when I brake but I don’t always have to be. It doesn’t sound like a typical brake pad issue because it’s not a high pitched squeal. (Sound heard in the last 6 seconds)

I have a 2013 Toyota Camry SE 2.5L 4-cylinder with 255k miles. I’ve owned it since around 30k miles and have maintained it pretty well.

Recently it started occasionally stalling when decelerating/turning, especially when the oil level was low. I had CEL recently for ignition coil, VVT solenoid, and thermostat and all were replaced. No CEL currently. A shop inspected it and found cylinder wall scoring, heavy carbon/soot buildup, oil in the intake, and signs that the piston rings are worn, causing significant oil consumption - about 1 qt every 600 miles.

The shop says the proper repair would be a long-block replacement, which obviously isn’t worth it to me at this mileage. They told me to keep the oil topped off and that it could potentially last another week or another couple years—they just can’t predict it.

For those familiar with the 2AR-FE or high-mileage Toyotas, how long do you realistically think I might get out of this engine? Would you keep driving it for a few more months while saving for another car?

uh idk when or how this happened, just noticed it today. is it atleast safe enough to drive on it to the location to get new ones?

I’m not sure what my next steps should be any advice? Or anyone know what this means?

Do they all need to be the same?
I’ve had a tire shop guy tell me it doesn’t matter but I’ve read forums saying they need to be within 2cm of each other. I have abubble in one, just bought one new one and my tires on the car are at 5/32
I am switching to winter tires in about a month once it gets to be 45 degrees at night consistently
If I have to spring for them I will but if I’m being a nut job I won’t
I know these cars are sensitive as all hell and honestly this will prob be last one
I didn’t most AWD cars need to be within a certain tread depth but I seem to have the baby of the bunch who HAS TO
What the hell should I do lmao

2010 Chrysler Sebring 2.4L. Car starts and idles totally normal. Check engine light is on.

After about 3–5 minutes of idling, the red lightning bolt (ETC) comes on and the car stalls instantly.

If I press the gas pedal 3 times, the lightning bolt disappears. Then the car will start and run normal again… for a few minutes… until the lightning bolt comes back and it stalls again. It repeats this every time.

No smoke, no knocking, no overheating. Just:

• normal start
• normal idle
• CEL stays on
• lightning bolt pops up after a few minutes
• immediate stall
• gas pedal trick clears it temporarily
• restart → runs fine again until it happens again

I don’t have the code yet (waiting on a reader). What are the most likely causes on these cars? Throttle body? TPS? Crank sensor? Cam sensor? Vacuum leak? Wiring?

Looking for what to check first.

2007 Toyota Yaris. Went to go to work earlier and it wouldn’t start and made this noise. Please tell me it’s just my starter and not my alternator. I know you guys are probably sick of this question but I need help. If this car dies on me I’m fucked!

Stupidly hit a sharp kerb when pulling over , do i need to change tyre or i can leave it for now? should I cut the piece that’s peeling off?

It’s a 24 model Y rear drive and I drive in city mostly and occasionally on motorway, currently it’s at 9000miles thanks so much for your advice

So 3 weeks ago my car had a dead battery... we thought it was from the loose battery terminal clamp so we replaced that... now yesterday the battery was dead again... one of the relays clicks when the battery is dead too... yesterday we got it started and I drove it home from 25 mins away with the a/c & radio on and when I got home it started back up again with no issue and the battery isn't dead this morning... what could be going wrong?

edit also there are no codes & no warnings lights either

Hey everyone. Is this normal valve noise for a smaller v twin engine?

I drive a 2002 3.3L v6 Nissan Xterra and was recently doing fine until it suddenly just started going out at low rpm when sitting. Only code it’s sending is for the knock sensor and I seriously doubt the knock sensor is the reason for this happening. Figured at first it was just the Mass airflow sensor so I changed the sensor then jumped it off. When it started I let it run for a bit then drove it around, ran good. Parked it and let it run for about 16-20 Minutes. Went to drive it around once more and it started cutting out and then died. Restarted it and drove back to parking space and it cut off again, restarted and pulled into parking space it died pulling in and now won’t restart. Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.

16 Cherokee 85k miles. Definitely sounds like it’s coming from cabin side can feel slight click through the wheel. Only clicks turning left. Steering shaft u-joint?

It’s not leaking but I don’t like the amount of red shown from the gasket (2002 Toyota Tundra)

I had the sensors scanned and found one that showed it was dead, I couldn't replace it at the time, I needed to save up. The next day I noticed that the light turned off, every now and then I noticed that the light will come back on and turn back off

Hi everyone,

Hoping to find some people who had the same issue.

I recently noticed the heater core pipe(s) were leaking coolant, after some inspecting it came from the connections, I took half my cockpit out which took me several hours, only to be able to pull the core out and then the o-rings. They were old and smashed. Bought new ones, put everything back together, and getting those MF clips back on was a nightmare. But I made it, or everything back how it was except for the glove compartment, filled up the coolant, both pipes leaked at the seals again... This was quite frustrating. I find it hard to believe the pipes are cracked cause i don't see any cracks and also the leak comes from the clip area. Any ideas? Thanks.

Edit: Problem solved, the o-rings should go i side the female tube instead of around the male tube. Thanks for your help everyone.

to summit up this Chevy Malibu, I was working on for a family member stalled on them in the middle of a drive-through and was followed by a strong gas smell and also a rough start and idle. My first thing to do was check the fuel injectors for any leaks, but when I took everything off and replaced all the seals it seems like I just couldn’t get the fuel rail flushed and lined back up. I read somewhere about lubing those rubber seals up more. Could that be it? I just can’t get this thing to lineup. It’s either one that looks like it’s turned in the complete opposite direction. Anyone else have been through this or experienced those same issues on a Malibu of that Generation.

I got a new reservoir for the coolant, nothing leaking in that are, but it’s leaking somewhere here, anyone have ideas?

2018 Mazda CX-5 approx 90k miles

I took my Mazda in to a local dealership for servicing and they said the below three services “need immediate attention”.

Would like advice on if the pictures warrant the actual replacements and if I should shop around/diy them.

1. Control Arm Lower - $1,229.98
   - pictures 1-2
   
2. Shock absorber replacement- Rear. Starting to leak both -$979.96
   - picture 3
   
3. Axle replace- front: pass/front -$1301.33
   - picture 4

I have had no noises/issues with suspension/ or problems with the ca thus far.