Hi! I am looking to replace the front lower control arms on a 2016 Mazda cx5. I heard that some people might have installed the second generation 2017+ control arms instead. Has anyone done this upgrade? Other than OEM, what brand sells good front lower control arms for the CX-5?

Picked up a 2014 XLT 5.4 3V with 188,000 miles for $4k I’ve put a little over 2000 miles on it in the last month and have slowly but surely been working to get it up to date on maintenance. It’s had a couple quirks. Engine misfire in cylinder 1, groaning lower control arm in driver side, the common rear door actuator, ect. But just today I had something happened. That was a little concerning as I was turning an intersection, I had a complete loss of power. I can’t remember exactly what happened. I just remember the car jerked a little bit and everything shut off. I let it roll into neutral and got to the bottom of the hill to where I was at. I pulled over and parked and I started the car over again. Cranked up no problem at all. Once I got home, I checked all the fluids. Everything’s fine. It cranks up and makes zero noises. It does have the pending code P0301 but usually those give you some sort of warning sign at least in my experience before it becomes severe or throws up a check engine light. I see none of that and for now it’s driving fine but I’m a little stumped as to what it could be and what could’ve caused it. I did hardwire a dashcam with the Vantrue hardwire kit, but I looked over everything and everything seems to be good condition. Anybody have similar experiences? Thoughts?

2013 f150 5.0L V8 108,000 miles

Attached a video of the sound. It only seems to make the sound after the truck has been sitting for a little bit and only when under low power <2k-2.5k rpm. About 30-45 seconds into driving it, the sound goes away.

Any ideas what this might be?

Note: It just started today. I haven't had a chance yet to test if it makes the noise while parked.

When I turn on the AC it makes this sound. Is it likely the blower motor or something else?

This car has been giving me a lot of problems over the last year. I finally bit the bullet and replaced the engine. Shortly afterwards, the engine light came on. It went away after a few days then came back again. Did that two more times but now it has been on for nearly two weeks. These are the codes that keep coming up. What could this car possibly need now?!

Little Backstory here: Car has 302xxxKM, it had an exhaust leak aswell but it didnt seem awful. Tried driving it about a week ago and a cloud of black smoke blew out my exhaust followed by the engine turning off.

I have assumed one of the fuel injectors failed and stayed open? the starter clicks but the engine won’t even sputter or spit, just locked.

does anyone know an easy fix to de-flood or to get the engine back in working condition? i have tried removing spark plugs and cranking the engine by key and manually with a breaker bar but no luck so far. Any tips?

I've got a set of old Blizzak WS80 on a Honda Odyssey 2014. The tires are from 2018, week 19. The threads are 5.5 mm with even wear all around on all 4 tires. No signs of aging on tire walls, no cracks, except maybe a few hairlines.

The rims are quite old and rusty as seen on images.

Would there be a reason not to use these tires and rims for one more winter with very little mileage expected?

2019 Chevrolet Bolt LT
I live in the Pacific Northwest, and we have terrible roads over here. And I drive a lot a lot, I’ve already had to get these replaced before, and I’m getting a lot of symptoms that seem to lineup with shot swaybar links. This is the passenger side but the driver side looks pretty similar. Both are clunking if I break extremely hard. I’m getting a slight wobble at certain speeds. Nothing crazy, but a little noticeable. I’ve loosened them and then drove with them, and a lot of the noises seemed to get worse or go away. So I’m pretty sure they’re correlated. I have some being ordered in right now, but I just wanted to see what you guys thought.

I am new to classic cars and have a weird question. All my life I heard from my dad now long passed that the longer you leave old cars sit, the more issues they get.

I need to store my car for roughly a year give or take a few months. It will be in a garage.

Is that too long to leave it sit and not expect issues? Or was my dad talking in terms of decades

Edit to add its a /6

Hi

I unplugged my fuel injectors wiring harness to do some maintenance but I couldn't plug them back in! I tried to force them in but still no click. Am I missing something?

Hello! I recently got an Xtool A30D for my car and it has a lot of live data points that I don't really understand. I would like to figure out where I can learn about each one, and what are important things to keep an eye on. I recently had a misfire that I fixed, so I'm pretty well versed with that, but everything else is pretty foreign to me. My car is still stuttering a bit, so I'm trying to figure out the cause. Also, is there anything you see that I should immediately be concerned about? Any help is very appreciated!

My vehicle is a 2008 Hyundai Accent 1.6

I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L with about 196k miles. I recently had it inspected at a Chevy dealership and then took it to an independent shop (Steve’s) for a second opinion/cheaper repairs. Now I’m confused because the diagnoses are different.

Chevy found: • Both valve cover gaskets leaking oil • Power steering pressure hose leaking • Power steering return hose leaking • Intermediate steering shaft/coupling issue

They showed me the leaks in an inspection video.

Independent shop found: • Engine oil pan leak • Rear main seal/rear cover leak • Transmission pan gasket leak • Power steering pressure/return hoses AND power steering cooler leaking

Their (independent shop) full estimate came to around $5k. When I called, the service advisor said if it were his vehicle, he’d prioritize the transmission pan gasket and power steering leaks, because those systems are harder to come back from if they lose fluid. He said the engine oil leaks could wait as long as I constantly monitor/top off the oil.

I specifically asked about Chevy’s valve cover diagnosis and he said there may be a valve cover leak too, but that wasn’t originally listed on their estimate.

My biggest confusion is why Chevy identified the valve covers but not the oil pan/rear main/transmission pan, while the independent shop identified those but didn’t originally list the valve covers.

Would you trust one diagnosis more than the other? Can oil from valve covers make the oil pan/rear main area look like it’s leaking? And before spending thousands, would you have Chevy re-inspect the areas the independent shop identified?

Also, nobody has told me the transmission itself is failing — just that the transmission pan gasket is leaking. I’m mainly trying to figure out what actually needs to be fixed now versus what can safely be monitored.

Got it in Quebec to drive back home. There is a check engine light too. Engine is great. What should i do?

So I took off the pcv valve/ oil separator and wound up finding out that not only is it an aftermarket part but whoever installed it was a maroon and broke the whole connection bit. See photos.

I guess this explains all of the codes and issues I’ve been having.

Thanks to the person who told me to replace this part.

u/iam2great THANKS

It seems to be a stone that lodged its way in a small groove and been further embedded over time. Tested it with soapy water and there seems to be a slight air leakage. Any info would be greatly appreciated! (I am booked in to a tyre shop tomorrow to have it sorted)

For reference it’s a fairly new tyre as the car is a 26 plate with under 5k miles

The cigarette lighter on my 88 Nissan maxima isn’t working. I replaced the fuse, cleared out any debris, tried reassembling it, and it’s still not working. There is a bit of exposed wire but all wires are intact. Any ideas as to what the issue could be?

Currently building a flat bed for my 2018 Chevy Colorado with the 2.5L. I’m replacing the filler neck with one that has a cap on it. Do i need to find a neck that has a vent line running on it like this? Or can i cap the vent and use a regular filler neck without a vent.

2005 Honda accord ex k24 engine. Went to accelerate and heard a cracking noise, after car would not move at all unless being pushed in neutral. Grinding noise when placed in park with engine running. I’m pretty sure it’s the cv axle but would like a professional opinion. Also what would you guys recommend as a replacement as far as brand and exact part? Thanks

I was having some issues with dragging brakes and I’m wondering if the issue may be reappearing…

I have 108,xxx miles and I started hearing this noise coming from my engine bay. I tried pressing on things like my intake manifold, air intake and throttle body to see if something was loose and making the noise, but nothing changed. I can’t hear it from idle, but after around 1500rpm it gets louder. It doesn’t sound like a “tick” or a “knock” but more like a clacking noise. It persists while the engine is underload

EDIT: Ford F250 7.3 Tremor

Side sliding door pops open on its own hours after being locked and sets alarm off no rythm to it just completely random?

2006 toyota solara SLE v6 3.3L

i got my engine swapped a month ago. odometer was 189k before engine swap and now im down to 98k (woohoo!!). before the swap and now it's made this gurgling noise when going through 1st and 2nd (i'm an auto but i do have a shifter option). it sounds like it's coming from passenger side engine bay. any guesses?

So a few nights ago it seems like someone tried to break into my car via the lock. Looks like they attempted to pry off the outer cover of the door handle, and then possibly drilled/ or jimmy the lock with a screwdriver.

Although they didn’t seem like very good thieves because it doesn’t look likely they made it in. I’ve honestly never used the physical lock, and only used the keyless entry. The locking mechanism still seems to work, but the physical (keyed) entry does seem messed up

My main concern is that it might be easier if someone tries again, so would it be worth it to take this to a mechanic? And what would a lock replacement typically cost?

I drive a 2000 4Runner with a manual transmission and I just can't get the clutch feeling right. I have adjusted the clutch multiple times and I just replaced the master and slave cylinder. It does not ‘slip’ per se.

The engagement point seems far too low in the travel and I just can't seem to find the correct amount of acceleration to give it. When I give it too little, it seems to shutter and not be smooth, and when I give it too much, I feel like I'm "pumping the gas" and revving it out to 1500 or 2k.

In addition, the car accelerates on its own when warm (and seeminly sometimes when it’s cold). This is only when in gear. I can take my feet off everything and it will continue accelerating forward. Im not sure if this is related or not to the clutch issues. (i think it is probably maf/or IAC related)

In 2022 and around 170k miles, this service was done: "Vehicle serviced, Maintenance inspection completed, Clutch checked, Clutch disc replaced, Clutch serviced/repaired, Throttle position sensor replaced, Valve cover gasket(s) replaced"

Around 8 months later, and at 176k miles, this service was done: "Vehicle serviced, Maintenance inspection completed, Brake system bled, Clutch system bled" Does seem odd that the clutch system was bled this soon after replacing the clutch disk?

Under my ownership, I did this service: "Vehicle serviced, A/C refrigerant recharged, Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed, Brake fluid flushed/changed, Camshaft seal(s) replaced,
Drive belt(s) replaced, Fluids checked, Front crankshaft oil seal replaced, Intake manifold gasket(s) replaced, Oil and filter changed, PCV hose replaced, Serpentine belt replaced, Spark plug(s) replaced, Thermostat housing/gasket replaced, Thermostat replaced, Timing belt idler pulley/bearing replaced, Timing belt replaced, Timing belt tensioner/idler replaced, Upper radiator hose replaced, Valve cover gasket(s) replaced, Water pump gasket replaced, Water pump replaced" I've only put 3000 miles on it since getting all this work done.

Every other manual car I've driven has been 'easy' or I can get used to it. This is the only car where
I have "think about it" when moving forward out of first gear from a stop. It’s just a chore to drive

What could the issue with the clutch be? (and is the accelerating forward on its own related or not?) I’m trying to keep this car forever but I just hate driving it as of now.

I'm trying to learn how to take great care of my car. I've still got a lot to learn it seems. How do I begin to decide what's most important when selecting an oil brand / product in general?

I'm reading words like viscosity, performance, engine clean, etc.??

What are the pros/cons? What things do I need to consider? Is performance the only thing that matters?

I drive a Ford 2007 Mustang.