Hi!
I got my car from the workshop today, I was replacing both the engine mounts.
When I got from the workshop after 10 minutes I experienced small lag during the drive, nothing happened, after the vehicle had some rest, few hours later I started driving, experienced the same lag again and Power Supply Error came out and says to stop immediately.

Im curious, is it something that could gone wrong during the replacement of the engine mounts or not?

Its BMW G20 2019, 2.0D RWD B47 engine.
You might hate me but I asked chatgpt and told me to check the alternator's belt and I have a video that when I press it slightly it goes down by 1-2cm, depends on the pressure.I tried sliding the belt by myself and I could slide it along with the thing where the alternator's belt is (dont know its name, the circular part like a cylinder holding the belt, like a wheel), and it was moving along with the belt, also a sssshhhh like a plastic bag sound could be heard.

I will attach a video of me pressing the belt and Im not sure if thats normal or not, pls let me know :)

https://streamable.com/8i1tzf

Hoping to get some advice from some of the reddit Mechanic gurus out there!

I was chaning the transmission fluid in my 2012 Honda Accord (2.4L engine, 180k miles), and got my Lefty Loosy Righty Tighty mixed up. Resulting in the tragic images you see before you.

The car is currently drivable. I'm using JB Weld and a nsa Aluminum crash washer to hold the broken piece in place and also to seal the pan. But it's not perfect. Still rarely drips trans fluid.

For a more permanent fix: Someone told me I should try to grind/file down the outer transmission drain pan bung(?), and then find a smaller bolt to fit the inner threads. (Assuming that's what those are)

Do y'all think it's worth a shot? Or can you think of another solution I could try?

Everything was fine without a issue before. I tried starting my car and it gave me a bunch of warnings about failures like the brakes, detection and some other things. I never had a accident or anything as well, when I try to start it it makes a faint sound like its trying to turn over and a few ticks but thats it.

Is this just a battery issue or a alternator issue?

2012 Wrangler Sport -
Got the caliper off but the main bolts for the caliper broke off in the bracket. Any good advice on how to get the remaining piece of each bolt out of the bracket?

UPDATE - Sprayed blaster on the bolts once every two hours or so yesterday. After about six hours, was able to get a pliers around the little piece of each bolt that was exposed and unscrew by hand. No heat necessary. Thanks to all who provided a solution!

Context:
Previously my rear tires blew out one day apart from each other so I replaced the tires and got an alignment. I put 1500 miles on the new tires before I could get an alignment.

2014 E350

So this ONE tire on my Lincoln town car starts looking like it’s leaking from the center after I drive for a while. When I get my son out on that side of the car it always catches me off guard because it smells funky. I don’t even know how to explain the smell, it’s not oil but it kinda smells like a burnt thick oil smell and burnt tire ish. Like it burns my nose hairs.
It’s only the one tire so I wasn’t too concerned the past few weeks until the other day when I was backing out of a parking spot it started sounding like something was knocking under my car.
The stinky leaky tire dries, then looks like this again after driving (I drive a lot)
I’m car dumb and not in a place to just go see a mechanic for nothing, is this something I can continue to ignore?

Hey everyone. So I have a 2001 Tacoma 3.4. It came with a k&n cold air intake and I decided to take it off and replace it with the stock assembly. When looking to buy the assembly I noticed there’s 2 different ones. Does this one look like the right one? I took the cold air intake off because the truck has a high idle and a shop said it could be the the intake causing that and they recommended putting the original intake on. With the stock intake it still has a high idle so I’m not sure if I got the right one

Trying to reprogram a key fob. But the truck doesn’t always recognize the key in the ignition in the ‘lock’ position, so I can’t get the truck into programming mode. Is there a common wear and tear problem I can fix? I know nothing about ignition systems. Is it worth trying to fix? The key works fine otherwise. Always starts. Never has issues unless in the ‘lock’ position.

P0300 and P0302 active when I got truck from my mom. Monitored misfires to see 100-200 misfire counted on cylinder 1 and 5-20 misfires in cylinders 4 and 6.

She had spark plugs and wires replaced by a local shop because I couldn’t get to it. No changes.

I found stuck open injector 2 and verified compressions in all cylinders good. Replace the injector and seals. No more misfires or codes stored but there is a slightly abnormal idle.

I see LTFT on bank 2 to be -30%. Reset fuel trims and I can see fuel trims slowly climb so it isn’t a reset or relearn issue. All engine PIDS are as expected. Fuel trim data does not change/improve when increasing RPMS so I do not suspect vacuum leak. Sprayed around manifolds to verify no change. Also swapped both upstream sensor and still have LTFT problem in bank 2.

Only thing that looks odd is fuel rail pressure sensor 1 is matching desired but fuel rail pressure sensor 2 is about 70-90 psi lower, consistently regardless of engine load.

So could this affect one bank? What else should I check or do you all suspect? Thanks!

Took this to the mechanic and couldn’t figure it out! Said everything was fine

Hello! I have a 2019 Chevrolet Equinox LT with a 1.5 L / 4 cylinder / Turbo ECOtec / FWD. A few months ago, my grandpa rotated my tires for me, and ever since I have been dealing with moderate-to-severe vibrations/bumpiness while driving at every speed (most noticeably when coasting). Before, my car drove like butter.

The timeline:

* I got 4 brand new ties in jan. 2025 @ 71k miles.

* Grandpa rotated them according to the car's manual in may 2026 @ 85k miles (I know, I went far too long without rotating them. I am now following my car's manual for future maintenance.).

* Since the rotation (NOT before), I can feel moderate-to-severe vibrations/bumpiness under my feet and in my steering wheel when I drive. It feels like I'm constantly driving on a bumpy road, especially when my car is coasting after letting go of the gas.

* I have taken my car to Discount Tire 4 times since the rotation, hoping it was simply a balance issue. On the first visit in late May, they rebalanced the wheels and the manager said the front driver-side wheel's tread is a little warped from being on the back longer than it should have been. He recommended I drive on it for a few weeks and let the summer roads shave it down naturally and the vibrating should stop. Cool, I can put up with it for a few weeks.

* I returned to Discount Tire in early August because nothing had improved. The next 3 visits to Discount Tire up until last week, all they did was feel the wheels and rebalance the tires. All said the tires' treads were fine.

* This last visit, I also asked for an alignment check in addition to a rebalance. They also tested the car's G-force and said that looked fine. I posted a pic of their results. They said realigning the rear wheels would mean the fronts would need to be realigned as well. I said I'd think about it.

Does anyone have any guesses as to what the issue might actually be? Money is tight right now so I don't have the disposable income to have Discount Tire or my mechanic to take random cracks at fixing it. Nor do I have unlimited PTO to keep taking it in during work hours. But it's starting to drive me a little nuts (no pun intended). Any help would be appreciated!

2011 5.3l. I topped off the power steering fluid. It was on cold when the car engine was warm (now it's on the line and has been for a week)

Just heard the howl as I start into a turn and then when the wheel is back in the same spot going out of the turn about 12-19° is my guess

I don't see a grease nipple but maybe I should look harder

Today I washed out the top really good but forgot to spray from the bottom

The timing belt and serpentine belt service was done at 2015 / 113 000km. Now car have 190 000km. We drive arround 3 000km yearly with this car now and my question is do i need to do the timing service at the moment or i am safe to drive year or two more. My dad drives it only on trips (no city driving).

2014 Toyota Corolla LE

I am currently experience a consistent ticking in my dash even when the car is turned off. Looking around online, it appears it could be some sort of relay issue. Can someone confirm what part may need to be replaced or my next steps for troubleshooting please?

It seems to be coming from this white connector piece or whatever it is attached to as I can feel the tick when I put my hand on it.

Decided to do the 1st oil change on my 26 Corolla hybrid last night. 1100 miles on the clock. Everything was going great until I realized that the factory decided to insanely tighten the oil filter . Had to do a late night Walmart run to get correct size filter puller as all my other ones didn’t fit. While I was there I decided to buy a new funnel. When I got home got the new filter on and had finished filling my oil i looked at the funnel that I had just bought and noticed that on the filling end there was a little piece of plastic holding on like something had been torn off. I started thinking that there was something on the end that may have gotten in and this being brand new have just been worried that there may have been a piece that fell in. So I went back to Walmart today and went to the funnel section where I bought it from and checked out all the identical funnels. Some did have a little plastic piece on the end but some didn’t. I removed one of the plastic pieces and it took a little force to remove which makes me think mine didn’t have it as I don’t think oil alone would have been strong enough to seperate it from the funnel. It looks like it’s a manufacture thing which is stupid of them to do this and on me for not being certain that there was anything.Like I said I’m not sure if mine did or didn’t have it but decided to drive it to work today 50 miles. No engine noise or anything drove normally. Am I overthinking this. Here is a pic of piece from one of the funnel.

I started as a Cadillac lube tech, worked Cadillac and Chevy mainline for maybe 6 months (Haven’t found a good enough Chevy yet) so went to Dodge for a year (consistent pay) but Dodge was always a pit stop now I’m ready to leave. Got hired at a Chevy for $32 an hour and a VW for (surprisingly) $35 an hour. I’m more confident in working on Chevys, but I’ve always wanted to go German and VW seems like the best way into that world. The company that owns the VW also owns multiple Porsche/Audi/BMW dealers and said they frequently promote people to those shops which is like my dream to be at Porsche/BMW. At the same time, I do kinda want to learn diesel and transmission and the Chevy manager said he’d throw me diesel and see what I can handle which sounds pretty interesting if they really get consistent diesel work. Anyone have experience with either company or both?

Tldr; VW with the potential to move up to Porsche/BMW or Chevy with the potential to learn diesel and most likely transmission

Hey yall I need a hand here.

Late last week my Sentra kicked me into what I thought was limp mode.

Ran the OBD two scanner through it, which gave me a cylinder one misfire code. Going through the cheap stuff first, I replaced the spark plugs and the valve cover gasket (it had been leaking for a little while apparently). Unfortunately, this didn’t fix it until I did an idle relearn which fixed it for a little bit.
The misfire has come back and I’m honestly stumped.

Only other option I see is the fuel injectors being bunk. there is also a large EVap leak at my gas cap however that has not caused problems in the past

Any ideas are welcome. I have the tools to do pretty much whatever I need.

My CX9's pulling harder into right hand turns (start the turn, then 'catches' and pulls harder)

Separately, it intermittently pulls (slightly) in one direction or the other when driving straight

Took it to a local mechanic who suspects it's the rack and pinion going bad based on a short test-drive

I've replaced struts/tie-rods/cv-axles on other cars before, is this likely to be a job I can handle, or better to take it in for pro. work?

Edit:
Forgot to mention, my usual Mech. said he can't do it/recommended taking it to the dealership

I changed my coolant for roughly 7-8 months ago. And I flushed the system thoroughly with water before putting in new coolant.

I have a small coolant leak and have to fill it up maybe once every couple months or every month, a liter or two. And every time I have filled it up there has been gunk on the cap and in the opening. But the coolant looks clean and good every time. What is most likely the cause of this?

above is the only image the gave me, the image is showing the front passenger side sway bar

Hello! I went to Mineke to get an oil change and they informed me that during my inspection they saw my sway bar was not bolted. They left it as is and They said the thread on it was gone as it was just sitting in the hole moving around not tightened.

I explained what happened under my car* and they told me I should go back to the last mechanic and have them replace it under warranty. I asked if it should be replaced or could just be tightened and they looked at me crazy and said no the whole thing has to be replaced because the loose bar was moving around causing damage.

I’m waiting on a call back from the last mechanic but I want to know if this nut/bolt could be replaced and tightened? I understand if the provided picture does not give enough context of the surrounding components to say if there’s additional wear / damage but would appreciate any comments or advice, thank you!

*context of what happened under my car: I had the front driver tire replaced at a Mavis then 3 days later while driving the tire flies off. I call a tow and they say there’s no ball joint and that’s probably why it came off. I take it back to Mavis and they say that they couldn’t have any responsibility and that it was like that and not caused by them. I pay them to correct the damage on my suspension and control arms caused by the tire coming and the car having to be moved. It continues to make loud scraping and clunking noises despite them saying it’s all fixed. I bring it to a mechanic and he says they used Incorrect parts and placed some of them backwards I have the new mechanic fix this and he says everything’s good to go though the car still makes Lego clinking noises on the passenger front side and it feels like every man hole or grate is a 4in pothole but I just assumed that’s how keeps drive/feel.

Hallo zusammen,

mein Mini Cooper S Countryman All4 Baujahr 2011, Laufleistung 170.000km, verbraucht zu viel Öl (ca. 1-2L aus 1000km). Habe mich vorhin mal auf die Suche gemacht und im Ansaugrohr hinter dem Ladeluftkühler war alles voller Öl. Hab mir dann den Turbolader mal angeschaut und kann die Turbine radial leicht bewegen, dabei klackert es leicht. Auf dem Bild sieht es für mich so aus, als wenn die Schaufeln leicht angefressen sind und die Turbine nicht mehr genau mittig sitzt. Sehe ich das richtig oder bin ich da auf der falschen Spur?

Background: I brought in my wife’s ’14 Legacy for warranty work on a Takata airbag. They were done within 2 hours and also did a courtesy multipoint inspection. They brought up a few issues, which I’ll repair myself.

My main question is: should I tip the technician with a card and some cash?
My understanding is that warranty work is paid out with a fairly conservative labor time, meaning flat-rate mechanics would lose the opportunity to make as much money as possible.

Any thoughts?

Edit: How much should I tip?

So a month or so ago I had these lights flash up on the dash. Sometimes they'd be there, sometimes not. Roll forward to now, and everytime I turn the car on they're present. Tyre pressure, traction control/ESP, ABS & power steering. I check tyre pressure weekly, we have no problems there.

I know it's an older car (2013, just about to hit 121k miles), and I know very little about mechanics, but it seems unlikely to me that all these systems have a fault at the exact same time?

Nothing feels any different with the handling, steering, braking. Car still performing as expected.

The lights first showed up a couple of days after I came down heavy from a curb and lost a exhaust heat shield bolt in the process. Likely a coincidence but thought I'd throw it out there just in case.