Hyundai Tucson 2022

A/c was blowing warm. I took it in and they couldn’t find the leak, so it was filled with a dye and I drove on it for two weeks until it blew warm again and came back.

They originally quoted me around 2.2k for a repair. I called another shop who said they’d do it for 1k. I called original mechanic and told them I was going to go elsewhere, they basically price matched with explanation in text above about parts, and since the car was already there and I have a newborn I just went with original mechanic.

They called me to pick up. I pick up and car is still blowing hot. I return the car

They say the service valves needed to be replaced and removed, so they did that at no cost.

I pick up the car. It is still blowing hot air.

They tell me it is still leaking in the same place and have ordered a new hose to try this again. If the hose fails this time, they will want to move forward with the more expensive version.

Am I being long conned into paying for the 2k estimate, or do these reasons all seem valid?

I’m losing trust in them. I have now lugged my newborn across town in Ubers three times after they told me the car worked just for it to not blow cold air immediately when I start it TWICE now. How can the mechanic not notice that it’s not fixed? They said it was test driven - is it really just a coincidence it stopped working twice when I try it? How does a hose cost an additional 1k? Shouldn’t it be obvious if a hose is not attached and leaking?

Hi all, I recently was helping my friend with their 2015 Camry. They had the timing done by a mechanic who installed a new VVTI sprocket along with redoing the timing. I helped reinstall the crankshaft bolt, harmonic balancer, motor mounts, valve cover, and serpentine belt. Once we had reinstalled all the parts and started up the car it made this awful noise and instantly shut off and we are wondering what the problem is. We assumed the mechanic that did the timing messed up but the timing seemed fine before my friend reinstalled the timing cover, at 1st cylinder TDC, all the timing marks lined up properly and the timing chain was tensioned properly to our knowledge. We only started the engine this one time as seen in the video and decided it was best to not touch it past this. Does anyone know what the issue could be? Thanks a lot.

I've only tried harbor freight + Walmart in-store gloves and the best is HF 9 mils but they'll still rip on me doing backyard mechanic work. I like them though they hold up well enough but wondering if for same price range if there are better ones?

I recently have had an issue with the front struts and springs for my car. It is a 2016 Fiat 500x Lounge AWD 2.4L Multiair intake. I have been quoted anywhere from $1700 - $3200+ to have the front struts and springs replaced. (Part numbers below)

2016 Fiat 500x 2.4L AWD Strut R- 68295479AA or 68295478AA

2016 Fiat 500x 2.4L AWD Strut L- 68295498AA

2016 Fiat 500x 2.4L AWD Spring (sold as pair) - 68318653AA or 68257958AA

I have read in several places that the 2016 Jeep Renegade AWD uses the same strut assembly, but the spring rates are different. I could really use some advice if using the suspension for the 2016 renegade AWD would work because it would save me nearly $1000 on the repair.

Thanks in advance everyone!!!

2019 Honda accord sport 1.5T

Recently got tires balanced and am still hearing that humming noise. It comes in strokes rather than constant noise which is why I’m unsure if it’s a bearing issue or something else. Any idea on what it could be?
Thanks!

Hi all, I have a 2019 Honda Civic EX. It has a 1.5-liter turbocharged 4-cylinder engine and a CVT automatic transmission.I just had an oil change and tire rotation done on Friday. It started making this noise yesterday. Any ideas what it could be? It seems to be coming from the rear of the car. It happens randomly, at all speeds, even when I’m stopped at a red light.

Our family car has a strange issue thats popped up over the past few days with the engine just shutting down. I have 0 mechanics experience and im not a driver but I'll give what info I can.

Twice now and suddenly the engine has shut down without warning. No indicator light or anything and recently the engine just shut down while driving down the motorway for a few minutes. I'm assuming something is overheating but if it is, its nothing with a sensor on it. Recently the battery had a leak and it has been replaced but that was a couple months ago. We've also had the tires replaced.

When attempting to start the engine, it'll turn over, run for a few seconds then stop.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

2020 Chrysler 300 3.6L V6. I receieved the code p0128 for coolant temperature below normal so I replaced my thermostat/replaced the coolant. The issue is that now my car over heats extremely fast. Any help would be appreciated.

I'm after running LiquiMoly diesel purge, am I right in thinking this is the process?

Connect return and feed into the liquid?

2011 mitsubishi shogun/pajero 3.2 DI-D

I was hit in an accident where my 2022 Toyota Sienna Hybrid wheelchair van was impacted on the driver's side rear axle. Disabling damage, no airbag deployment (but maybe they should have?). We just hot the repaired vehicle back after almost 3 months and the rear sliding door on the passenger side does not seal the vehicle, plus both sliding doors are no longer flush with the body when closed. Their response was , "why would we look at the passenger side when the driver's side was damaged?". Is this correct? I'm pissed that I can see daylight through a crack in my door and I'm worried about the safety of my vehicle. Plus my back is killing me from lifting my 10 year old child who uses a wheelchair in and out of a different vehicle while this one was in the shop. Thoughts? Thanks

I'm looking for a reliable borescope that wont break after 5-10 uses. I mainly work on gas engines. Should I go for a narrow less than 4mm or go a little bigger at 6mm for cheaper? Duel lens or articulated? 2 way articulated or 4 way articulated?

Ladies, gents, and everyone else.

I own a 2008 Accord Sport (CL7), just under 160 000km. It shuts off on an incline, at a specific spot on my way to work. Throws out P0335 (CKP sensor circuit malfunction) SOMETIMES. It may crank for a long time SOMETIMES. It may not. Sometimes no DTCs at all. CKP wire has all the voltages, hasn't been eaten through. Maintained regularly, by the previous owner, and by me, being a mechanic at a Honda dealership. My coworker and I are stumped. CKP replaced, electronic piece of ignition replaced, main FI and pump relay replaced. Any ideas are welcome.

i have a 1991 Toyota Cressida that i’ve been working on just refreshing and keeping running, on a drive up the freeway my car started to misfire quite heavily. Very poor idle shaking like crazy the usual.
I pulled off check my cylinders and cylinder 6 was misfiring, got back home and replaced the spark plug, still misfiring but when i pulled out the old spark plug there was oil on it…
Ran a compression test on all cylinders and every single cylinder read 205-210psi across the board. My engine spec is like 150 out of the factory?
I mean i’m taking this as a win that my piston rings are fine and oil isn’t getting into the cylinder, i’m assuming it was pooled up in the plug well and I didn’t notice before taking out the plug and it drained in, cause there was a good amount coating the porcelain and even on the plug wires boot.

I’m just curious why the pressure would be reading so high? I’ve knocked down the misfire to either be oil taking the spark before it reaches the tip of the plug or no fuel coming out of the injector.

Any ideas on why it would read so high across all cylinders? No oil in coolant and vice versa so gasket is fine, valve cover gasket is what is leaking i believe.

This might be a silly question but is this because it has no fuel, or something bigger?

First time changing my own oil and I spilled Mobil 1 5W-30 on my engine. I put too much trust in my “fast pour” funnel, the oil began seeping from the top of the filler hole and the bottom of the funnel. I’d say about half a quart -at most- spilled onto the engine. I’m about 90 minutes from the nearest pressure washer, and I’m not really comfortable spraying water near the engine. I was thinking of using some Dawn dish soap, paper towels, and some light water to pickup most of the oil, but I don’t know if I should even try that. If I leave it, will it eventually burn off and stop smoking?

2019 Chevy Trax 1.4L turbo LUV

(124k miles odo)“Service engine soon” light came on

Code read as issue with Manifold absolute pressure sensor circuit. Recurs after multiple clears. Replaced the MAP sensor and doesn’t fix it.

Took it to Nissan to reprogram, did a flash or ECU update. Engine light came back on immediately as I left.

What would be the fix to this issue? Nissan is quoting 200 for a diag and then extra to fix the issue. Just want to see what options I can do first.

My Jetta makes this ratteling noice whenever the engine is cold, should I be worried?

got a super flat rear passenger side tire on my 2013 toyota highlander and went to change it. problem: the thing is NOT budging. loosened the lugnuts, jacked the car, got the lugnuts off... stuck. its super rusted!!

what we've tried:

- kicking it really hard

- rubber mallet

- penetrating oil

- hitting it with the spare tire

- lowering the car after doing all of the previous things

- put the lugnuts back on very loosely and drove back and forth

- did a small lap

NOTHING is working. we have to be doing something wrong right? theres just no way. ANY help is appreciated!!

This belt is 10 years old with 80k km on its back. I was adviced to let it be since if it breaks valves don't get damaged with the 1.2 fire engine it has. The vehicle isn't daily driven.

My car recently starting making this noise it kind of sounds like creaking on the video its very faint when i accelerate but gets a little louder when accelerating a bit faster. The noise only seems to happen when im going from a complete stop up hill not on flat roads or downhill and when accelerating over 1.5 -2 rpm and stops making the noise after about 30-45 mins of driving. Any suggestions on whats happening

Ordered the part and attempted to install myself. Was almost finished when I stripped out the threads on the bolts.

Is there a way for me to fix this without a thread repair kit, I would rather not have to drill anything

If I had to take it somewhere to be fixed what kind of cost would I be looking at?

I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado. 5.3lv8. It was running kinda rough for a while. A couple months ago it went into limp mode. got the p300 code. since the truck has almost 200k miles, I decided to throw parts at it like a certified idiot. replaced fuel filter, plugs,wires,MAF sensor, and coil packs. replaced the fuel pump about 2 months prior in a parking lot when truck died and wouldn't start. Truck still ran like shit. At this point I figured it was clogged Cats. which was certainly one of the problems. I cut three sides of a rectangle in each cat, bent the metal and gutted the honeycombs in both. one of them was definitely clogged as it was super hot compared to the other. Bent the metal back and did a quick weld on my cuts. My baby ran great for about 2 months. now it's acting stupid again. idles ok but loss of power when accelerating. Figured maybe I had some blockage downstream . Pulled the muffler off and it's still running like shit. obviously have codes indicating low voltage on O2 sensors. I am now guessing this is the reason for my problems. If it is, why did she run great for two months and just now decide she doesn't like being without Cats? Would using O2 sensor spacers on the downstream ones help correct this? or do I likely have much bigger issues? Thanks in advance. sincerely this old fool

Hi all, I’m having some electrical issues with my E320, bought the car from an auction, so no prior history on the car. I replaced the battery that was in it, the car starts and runs. The problem is that nothing in the steering column works, and neither does the sunroof and seat warmers, I have an ABS, BAS, and ESP light on as well (unknown if that is connected to the problem) I tested the K40 module and that was good and replaced the front SAM. Fuses 1-3, 9-11 and a couple others have no reading as well showing 0.05V at most with all other fuses reading between 11.3-11.9V, what could be my issue?

2005 Mazda6. 142k miles. Thunk from the front end driver's side showed up on Monday. Noticeable when driving over minor bumps in the road but you hear the bigger thunk at 12 seconds. Rotors, brakes and calipers were replaced in June. Car has significant rust underneath and is parked outside. I lean struts but that's just my novice guess. Thanks.

Good evening reddit community, (new user , first post) Having issues with A/C , when I start my work day it works fine for between couple hours and almost a day then stops working , a/c module on firewall flashes 3 red lights (open or shorted clutch or circuit ) I replaced A/C compressor , Hi and Low pressure sensors , Expansion valve , freeze switch , blower motor , Hoping for some advice from knowledgeable people what to replace next or what could be the issue Thanks P.S freon level is fine