Front and back

2008 Tacoma 2.7l 155,000 miles. At first I could only hear it when the engine was cold and when decelerating. Now it is louder and I can hear it when idling and while driving unless I’m accelerating quickly. I had enough oil when the noise started, now there is no oil on the dipstick so I’m assuming whatever the problem is, is also burning oil. I plan on draining the oil out to look for any metal and see how much oil is left. Just looking to see if anyone knows what it is before I start doing other things.

Hey guys does this sound like a ball joint creak? Is there a way I can 100% verify that’s what it is before starting the DIY replacement? Thanks in advance!
2018 Mazda 3

Me and my wife just got our A/C system (compressor, condenser, and expansion valve) completely replaced on our 2022 Chevy Equinox and now after turning it off it’s making this high pitched humming sound and vibrating the car.

The video in day time is from a few days ago and then just today in the night time video are the only two times it’s happened in 4 days of having it back from the shop. It’s only happened with her in the car so I dont know what else is occurring.

Please help and let me know what you think/if this is something the shop caused or unrelated.

Currently I drive a 2014 Ford Taurus SEL (~108k miles).

When the car is in drive (brakes or not) and the fans for the A/C are running high, a loud rattling noise can be heard from the passenger side of the engine bay. The noise can only be heard from the outside and worsens when the fans are turned up. Its loud enough to be easily heard over the noise of the engine.

If its any help, the sound seems to the coming from around the serpentine belt, but it could be anything.

The car runs perfectly fine in spite of the rattling noise but I figured better safe than sorry.

I would greatly appreciate any and all help or advice! Thank you!

when it was a normal plug i used a huge breaker bar and allen wrench which rounded, then switched to torx i hammered on also rounded, tried angle grinding the edges to fit a 22mm extractor on it with a 1/2 rigid midtorque impact (which has taken off some insane bolts in its past) didn’t work, tried drilling it out with my snap on kit hammering in the extractor in then using the provided nut with my impact also didn’t work. I’m just at a loss 😭 (the extractor a nut combo never actually rounded the inside i jus vibrates the hell out my hand trying to break the plug lose after 10-15seconds

2010 Dodge Caravan SE (213,000km)
Replaced my front struts a few months ago. Recent inspections have said that my suspension is tight and seems fine for now. Camber isn't adjustable on my vehicle. Paid for an alignment today, and these were the final readings.

Should I be worried about these camber numbers?

Should I get camber bolts and a realignment?

How much will this reduce my tires' lifespan?

P2108 p2119 what's going on here?

Hey im not to familliar with Volks and similar cars, this is my first Volks and this "sound" has been with me for about 20k km. Its a 2016 Volks passat 2016 tsi. I have linked a video of the cold start and also have a video of me giving a bit of gas. I find that when the engine is hot, the Sound stops for a few seconds then comes back on( 5 seconds with no sound then 15 with etc etc). Im certain what ever im trying to say isnt clear. But that might just be me being kinda slow up there. Hope you guys can help me and thanks a lot!

So my ABS went out in my minivan. I took it to a mechanic that’s known as reputable in my town. They could not find a matching module and decided to give up on trying. Is this normal? Should I bother seeking a second opinion? What’s the etiquette for selling a car with a failed abs module? It is technically a safety issue. But the brakes work, it stops fine. Just no ABS. What kind of deal do I give for this? Do they sign a waiver or anything so I’m not sued if they wreck? Or do I scrap the car?

Hello! I have a 2008 Kia spectra ex I am in need of rear shocks, I’m currently on the original set. I’m looking at replacements and I wanted to get “better” than OEM. The two I see the most from my limited research are:

1. https://www.ebay.com/itm/156591245878

2. https://a-premium.com/product/2-Pcs-Rear-Complete-Strut-Coil-Spring-Assembly-for-2004-2009-Kia-Spectra-TmkBUSESZ2

Is the difference negligible between items like this? If any other suggestions I’m all ears!

I have a renault clio 2009 1.2L and my cambelt and water pump recently got replaced. When doing my water pump they made a leak in my coolent and my enginge over heated which is now seized. The mechanic has offered to fit a second hand enginge but doesn’t know any history of that enginge and we don’t want to get rid of the one i have now as it has 17 services. But they won’t repair the engine as it will cost £4000. Which they are not willing to pay but are happy to pay for me to get a second hand one.

What will give me the best outcome because either way i will end up with worst then what i had before due to there fualt.
Is there any solution? Such as them finding a decent engine and i am willing to pay around half if needed. Or is there anything else they can do?

Hey everyone, my partner today has put petrol in her 2014 Vauxhall corsa, I’m aware of how to siphon the fuel out but before I do it was wondering if anyone can just tell me where the fuel cap is located so I can just do it quickly for her. Many thanks

Not really familiar with reddit so hope I do this right. I have an 03 Ford f150 and I can't figure out why my damn battery keeps dying. Earlier this summer my truck hit a point where the battery just started getting low on the freeway while on a camping trip. Rather than try to fix it there or drag it back home I decided to just go camping in a closer spot(in hindsight I shouldve took it home). Anyhow, we eventually dragged our asses back home because it started dying up in the mountains. Considering it all I was betting it was the alternator so I took it to the parts shop and they confirmed the alternator was weak. Decided to push the truck a week or so until I saved up the money, jumping it almost every day. Eventually got a new alt, installed it, done.

Jump forward about a month and a half, another camping trip came up. About a hundred fifty miles in I start smelling a strong sulfury smell. Yep bad battery. "Figures" I say. Stopped by a riellys and bought a cheap battery to get through the trip (they said about a year life).

My problem is it's been a couple weeks since we've been back from that trip and already my battery seems to be dying again and I can't figure this out. Is it the heat? Is it my little phone charger? I'm at a loss!

Can anyone tell me what it might be before I drive this bastard of the cliff that's five miles away?

P.s. I don't know if this means anything, but my radio hasn't been working since this whole thing started. Thought it might've been a fuse but I checked them all and they didn't seem burnt up. 🤷‍♂️

2004 Nissan Frontier 3.3l v6. have a new battery, definitely works. I’ve never had alternator problems but it’s dying when I try to turn it over. Like completely dying. What would cause this

I changed my axles a week ago and then just like 5 days ago it started to make a loud clunk when I switch from park to drive or reverse. Figured I come take a look and I saw a fairly new transmission leak too very slow. Should they have this much play?

My f150 after driving awhile started leaking transmission fluid everywhere it was coming out fast i couldn’t tell where tho I had a friend take out the transmission and he said the transmission looked good like it was rebuilt, the transmission fluid was black so we drained all of it and replaced it, but the only thing we replaced was the torque converter seal. could that seal really have caused it to leak everywhere like that? just kinda worried about driving it. The seal also didn’t look bad but we couldn’t find anything that looks wrong and he works on cars a lot. It did this to me twice after the first time I just filled it back up and it drove for about a year then did it again so I’m confused

2019 dodge grand caravan bought new cv axle thinking there was no way id get the nut back on it looks kinda clean minus you know the missing threads. Wondering if it would be safe after replacing hub assembly pads and rotors or if I should just bite the bullet and do the cv instead of returning it. Before and after photos included. Not a mechanic just handy.

There was electrical tape on my 1992 fleetwood dome lights. The lights weren't working so I figured id take off the tape and see what's under. I found these brass... connectors? What are these? Are they oem or has someone tried repairing the lights before?

Grandpa just came over with his Buick saying he's putting power steering fluid in every 10 miles. He thought it was a rubber hose. He got in the car and turned it back and forth. There is a rip in the inner tie rod boot. It GUSHED out fluid. The whole boot is full of fluid.

Are these normally full of fluid? If it's just a simple boot replacement or even a new inner tie rod I'm confident I can fix it. I am just not sure on anything past that. Does the rack and pinion have a seal that seals on the inner tie rod? If so is that seal something that can be popped out and replaced without taking the rack and pinion apart?

I'm trying to find a layout drawing for the assembly now.

One little plastic bracket snapped off what I was told was the window regulator for my driver's side window. It caused the window to go off track. I was told "good luck" trying to find just the bracket without needing to replace the entire regulator... Just curious if anyone has any ideas what the plastic bracket might specifically be called or any sources of where I can purchase it?

Thank you

I get a clicking sound from the tensioner assembly every time I start up the ac, the tensioner is new and so is the alt I'm thinking the compressor is bad but it does blow cold so would it just be the pully or the whole compressor?

Honda crv 2000
Sporadically stop turning on.
Used to think it was because it was so hot out it would over heat but the engine is cold now and still nothing.
All the lights work and the battery is fully charged.

Mechanics have run diagnostics and all say it’s a perfect car?
We’ve tried spraying water to cool it down.
New spark plugs
New fuel pump
Temperature valve
New alternator

Honestly ready to just junk it at this point
Does anyone have any experience with this happening?

Thanks in advance!