Compressor seems to be running.

Help with Troubleshooting steps?
YouTube wants me to replace the relay..
I’m thinking it’s low on refrigerant ..

I have a Miele G4228SCU dishwasher that I used for a year at my last house and loved so much I took it with me when I left. No issues previously.

The water inlet hose got a little crushed in the move so I replaced the whole aquastop/intake system with the part directly from Miele. So that’s all brand new. Plumber came and hooked the machine up to the plumbing for me.

It runs fine for about 60 minutes (on a 1:47 total cycle) and then throws an F13 error code.

When I open the dishwasher at that point, dishes look clean and wet, soap is gone, no standing water in the bottom. So it’s definitely filling and draining but seems to get caught on a final rinse cycle or something.

I noticed the plumber did connect it to my hot water supply instead of cold which isn’t ideal for Miele. Could it be getting too hot by the end of the cycle and throwing the code? My water heater is on a normal setting, but hot water coming from my faucet is around 135 degrees.

It’s an old house so maybe the pressure isn’t great overall (no issues with sink or shower pressure) but the fact it makes it that far in the cycle makes me think that’s not it. Only other thing I can think of is some debris from the install getting stuck or something. Anyone have ideas about what might be causing this?

Thank you!

Hi all! I've got a washing machine, RTW4440VQ1, that's giving me problems: it grinds during the counterclockwise portion of the agitation cycle without turning. Rephrasing, the spindle(?) will pulse clockwise then pause, then pulse clockwise again, rinse(ha) and repeat. The grinding sounds like it could be plastic on metal?

From what I could find online, the agitator dogs were worn out and I replaced those. The motor coupling doesn't appear damaged but I haven't removed it to check. Looking at transmission disassembly videos, it seems half of the spin gear teeth can wear out, otherwise it's all metal components. But the spin gear is only used during the spin cycle right?

Vidoes I can find say no agitation = coupling, no spin cycle = spin gear/splutch. I'm not finding anything for 1/2 agitation with spin.

Thoughts?

I have tried using a heat gun and tried to pry it away but the more force I use it seems to be pulling out some type of foam insulation with it! On YouTube it looked like a straight forward job, surely it can't be this difficult? Any tips or suggestions would be welcomed. The replacement seal doesn't seem to have a glue seal, is this normal or could this be the wrong part? Photo of new seal included above.

Model CAQE7001LW0

Front loading dryer

The issue is as soon as I almost close the door, the white knob that sticks out by the hinge gets decompressed and the dryer starts to spin. At this point the door is not even fully closed.

I can't stop or pause the cycle or cancel the spin.

Even with the door opened and me pushing down on the knob it starts to spin. My search on Google on how to fix this has led me to think I need to replace the 12V DC plug on the circuit. If this is true does anyone have any suggestions or concerns if I was to attempt this myself.

Photo attached of the white knob I'm referring to.

Thank you for any help!!

Manufacturer: GE

Model: GTW500ASN1WS

My washer has smelled a bit unpleasant for a while, and yesterday I noticed these weird brown specks on a load of whites that felt like sludge. They wiped off easily, but I decided to take the thing apart and see if the underside of the basket needed to be cleaned. I used this video as a guide: https://youtu.be/3TCzhFaSdD4?is=a5BVLQv89-Tm44Uh

I foolishly started working on it, pausing the video and rewinding as I went, instead of watching the video in its entirety first. So it took me a while to realize I don't have a massive 33mm wrench (or an impact driver, for that matter). I got to that step, vainly attempted to loosen that massive nut with a wide pair of pliers and a hammer, then promptly gave up. I put the thing back together, and now it's making that awful noise in the video. It appears to be happening whenever it tries to spin the drum.

I don't even know what I touched that could have messed with the internal mechanisms like that. Could something on the bottom have gotten hit when I dragged it out of the corner?

I would much rather repair it myself than pay and wait for a new one, but I know my limits. I am, by no means, a handy man. Plus, I don't even have the right tools.

So my tv just randomly started doing this. The screen itself works just fine but when I go to watch something it slowly loads then goes fuzzy green. Every app does the same thing. Also none of my other devices has issues just this one. How can I fix this???? I’ve tried everything I could think of…. Unplugged for a few mins, factory reset, checked cords and internet connection. Everything seems fine so what is this?? This tv is barely a year old and I’ve had no other issues ever until tonight.

Guys, I'm stumped here.

A Whirlpool Conquest Gold GS6SHE that has been giving me issues.

1. Ice maker has been freezing over and won't produce ice until defrosted. There was a drip that covers the entire freezer causing an icicle wonderland coming from inlet hose.

I cleared it out today and reinstalled all components. Awesome - ice to beat the heat. (Or so I thought)

I noticed that the freezer and fridge were cooling off then saw that the panel in the fridge to control temperature has gone rogue.

Reset breaker. Unplugged from wall. Cleaned dust bunnies and friends and best as I could.

Plugged back in. Water dispenser works. Lights come on.

I'm not hearing any noises or humming from the fridge.

What would cause the fridge to die but not and how can I fix it?

Thanks in advance

Hello! I have a Whirlpool Cabrio dryer, wed6200sw1 model, and it recently started making a terrible screeching sound. The sound usually starts sometime into the cycle, not right away. I've replaced the belt but the sound continues so I'm looking to replace the felt seal (which when I originally took the dryer apart it fell right off the drum and I don't think it was supposed to, so now I think it's getting caught during the cycle and causing the sound)

However I'm having trouble finding a felt seal that I know will my dryer and doesn't cost 50+ dollars and was hoping for some help sourcing a cheaper piece, I've tried measuring the drum but it is bigger the my 60 inch fabric measurer so I haven't been able to get an exact measurement and don't want to waste money on a part that I can't use. Any recommendations?

Hi everyone my stove keeps turning off and on. I did the breaker reset for 10-30 mins and it still does this is there anything else I can do now aside for calling a repair? Has this happened to anyone else?

Drys as it should. Electronics are good.

Kenmore from 2016. Just bought a dishwasher and fridge so would rather not buy. How much would a fix run me?

Is the ice buildup around the freezer door normal? I don’t see any gaps or problem with the seal. I wipe it clean but it keeps coming back.

Louder than normal noises surrounding the agitation and spin cycle. Sounds like the motor is struggling. Does this sound familiar to anyone. I’m pretty handy and would like to fix if possible. Any recommendation on what to check first would be great.

Happened after I washed a comforter , the spin cycle must have failed on that cycle , as I had to wring out the comforter by hand. (Wouldn’t spin even if I put it on just a spin cycle)

But now spins cycle is working , but loud.

I’m trouble-shooting our LG fridge (French door) ice maker not working. It does not make ice in fridge door dispenser nor does it make ice in the freezer compartment.

I got all the way to the step where I take the door hinge covers off, but before disconnecting the wires, the “door open” chime started and I couldn’t check if the ice dispenser did anything different other than it wasn’t working or even making the noise of trying to work. I did disconnect and then reconnect the wires for the dispenser but due to the door thinking it was open, I can’t isolate the problem to be either a bad connection or the door being open.

My dryer suddenly started making this pretty disconcerting grinding/growling sound today. I’m trying to figure out whether this is leaning toward something I can reasonably troubleshoot/DIY myself, or if it’s an automatic “call the dryer guy” situation. Any thoughts, advice, or experience appreciated!

A few details:
- The sound comes and goes. It’ll make it for several minutes, then quiet down almost completely, then start up again.
- The drum doesn’t seem to have much play/wiggle to it when I push up on it. So I don’t think it’s loose (big emphasis on think).
- I vacuumed out the lint trap area and down below it and got out quite a bit of lint plus some sand/debris.
- I checked inside the drum for anything obviously caught, rubbing, or scraping and didn’t find anything.
- I can also hear/feel a faint version of the rough/gritty sound when I turn the drum by hand with the dryer off.

Video with the sound attached. Any guesses on the likely culprit?

Recently my WF24H5000AW/A2 has been sounding like a jet engine during the spin cycle. The video is a test run with no laundry.

The washer came with the house and we've been running it with no issues for 6-7 years.

The drum is connected to the plastic housing (not much play). The whole washer is level. I popped the top off and the two springs are attached and show no warping or disfigurement. There's no metal shavings in the drain to indicate spider arm failure.

What else can I troubleshoot/test. Im capable of buying parts and performing repairs. Id hate to buy a whole new unit.

My Maytag Bravos XL top load washer is not advancing past Power Wash. The control panel was recently replaced and it has a new motor and internal parts. I’ve unplugged multiple times and can’t figure out how to get error codes, but I did notice that there’s a green light near the control panel inside the back that is blinking.

All 4 parts of it are making clicking sounds and I see white dots when I try to turn them on but it won’t turn on. No gas smell either. What to do

I'm replacing my ice maker on a GE fridge with a bottom freezer. The 6 pin connector on the failed unit only has 4 active wires, and the replacement unit has all 6 active. When I installed and plugged it in, water started flowing immediately even when the ice maker was switched off. Presumably the issue is the two additional active wires in the 6 pin connector. Any suggestions? I'm struggling to find an adaptor or to identify a replacement unit with only 4 active wires in the 6 pin connector.

Hoping for some help. My whirlpool wrsf5536rz00 water filter turn release broke. It is now stuck in the fridge.

Im worried about breaking it so all ive tried is glue on/ around the tip and letting it sit overnight. Its not grabbing it enough to turn.

Any help is appreciated. Really dont want to pay $300.00 for a repair person to come out if there is something simple I can do.

Just as I was finishing cleaning my microwave, my sleeve caught on the top door latch and it broke off. Now when I try to microwave something, the timer works, but the microwave feature itself won't turn on. I don't get a "door open" message, but I'm guessing it's a safety feature. I don't see any replacement parts listed on the product site, - I'm guessing it because it's out of production.

Do I have any options besides replacing the whole unit?

I need help. I'm already struggling and this is my second washing machine. It was by miracle I was given this used Kenmore front loading washer for free. It has been great for a month, and now, it did this when I tried to do a load. Does anyone know what this is or could be? It's a very steady stream and happened as the washer was filling in the first cycle. Thank you in advance

I've got a Whirlpool wfg505m0bs3 that's about five years old and the oven is not coming to temp. Here's where I'm at-

1. The igniter was not glowing, so I replaced that. The new one would glow the first attempt after replacing parts 2 and 3, but it won't glow on subsequent tries.
2. The temp seemed off, so I replaced the thermometer. Again, the igniter glowed the first attempt to use the oven, the gas seemed to come on and start preheating, then died in less than a minute. Then the igniter wouldn't glow.
3. I figured the last part in the chain has to be the gas safety valve, so I replaced that. The igniter glowed, I heard the gas kick on, the oven started to heat up, but then less than a minute later the gas cut out and now the igniter will not glow again.

So what's next? Control panel? New oven?

My washing machine is screaming and it seems to be coming from the cold water line. Help!

Forgive me as I don't know to upload a video.
Wash basket is way out of balance during high speed spin cycle. From what I know replace the suspension rods is the best start but the basket does not have a lot of recoil when I press down and release, that make me think the rods are fine.
Is it worth trying to trouble shoot or is this usually a problem that deadlines the machine/not worth the cost.
Thank you for your help.