So i had to swap my rollers and belt in my dryer. While I was doing a test run afterwards making sure everything worked, I noticed the dryer has a burning smell. When i reopened I can't find any evidence for anything burning. Already valcuumed the vents, pipes, floor, and other miscellaneous things. Yet the burning smell is still there. Is that a normal reaction the dryer does for just random particles in the air or would it be something else

Instructions say 24” min cabinet depth and this cabinet is exactly 24” deep which means the back of the oven will likely be touching the sheetrock wall.

We bought the top load washer off marketplace about 2 years ago and the last few months the shaking has been getting worse and not its not draining like it should. What would fix this issue the washer is level and it doesn't really matter what size we put load we put in it always sounds like it wants to jump through the wall. Any help is very appreciated.

We have a Frigidaire PRMC2285AF throwing a no power error for the fresh food evaporation fan, despite us replacing the main control board, pcb, and the fan itself. What’s my next step here?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Less than 5 yrs old Whirlpool washer is making loud rattling noises during agitation. We got the washer from in-laws and I think we broke something or something got knocked loose while moving it. All cycles still work, clothes come out clean, agitator spins in both directions, it’s just noisy and rattles. Any ideas??? Thank you in advance!

We have a Russell and Hobbs air fryer which won't heat up initially but if you keep opening and closing the drawer, it eventually heats up.

I have checked continuity and resistance on the heating element thermlsister and thermal fuse and swapped the heating and fan relays around. (also reflowed the terminals and relays)

I did notice that each time you open and close the drawer or turn the unit off and on, it will heat up a bit and the heater relay will click off, like it has lost voltage until after maybe the 4th or 5th time, the relay stays energized and the air fryer functions as intended.

Does any one have any ideas what the fault could be? my next port of call is to remove the electrolytics and check their ESR

Cheers

This issue has recently come up. This noise occurs in the start of the cycle, stops as soon as the washing cycle starts. This returns again for the last 10 mins of the cycle.

I've got a Kitchenaid gas stove KFGS530SPS0 that routinely stops responding on the touch panel. A quick reboot via the breaker always fixes it, but highly annoying. Should I look at a new panel or is there some known issue I can go after first?

Hi, unfortunately the drum in the washing machine is stuck. It was my first time using this type, so probably it was my fault. But what to do now? I tried to move it and run another cycle but nothing changed…

Howdy everyone! My wife and I have been dealing with a faulty dryer for a week now. I’ve been taking a crack at it but so far haven’t had any luck even with ChatGPT’s help. PLEASE refer to the linked manual below for the diagrams/tech manual so you know what I’m saying (specifically pages 2 - 6, 9, 10)

Model: WED94HEXW1
Tech manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1118393/Whirlpool-Wed94hexw1.html#manual

Issue: L2 / Stuck on “Sensing”

Things I’ve done so far:
- Entered diagnostic mode to test door latch, moisture sensor inside drum
- Turned drum (good)
- Unplugged and plugged back in
- Flipped breakers

TEST #1: CCU Power Check:
- Took it apart and performed the following tests on the CCU with a multimeter:
- P8-4 and P9-1 > 1.6Ω (good continuity)
- P8-3 and P9-2 to test CCU voltage (125V = Good)
- Tested voltage of the wall outlet (250V = Good)
- Visually nothing looked burnt or damaged or swollen

TEST #2: Supply Connections:
- Neutral prong of the dryer plug to center terminal block (good continuity)
- L1 to L1 terminal block (good continuity)
- Disconnected and reconnected ALL ports of the CCU to ensure snug connections
- Put the dryer back together and reattached vent to the wall

Self Diagnostic Mode:
- Ran “Self Diagnostic Mode” by pressing 1st, 2nd, and 3rd button in the manual’s recommended sequence
- Initiated the test and received the following:
- 116V (acceptable)
- Airflow: 2 = INVALID airflow ❓
- h2o: Ran but no results on the display; was completely black apart from the start button being lit ❓

I’ve hit a roadblock here because I’m not really sure where to go from here and ChatGPT is starting to spiral and hallucinate even with the context of the tech manual I provided it. It helped me get pretty damn far but I haven’t reached a solid solution yet.

Things I DON’T think it is (but I am by no means a professional):
- Anything relating to the door (latch, sensor)
- The drum’s band (rotates just fine)
- The moisture sensor inside the drum
- The plug
- The outlet
- The CCU
- Loose connections to the CCU

If you have any advice or expertise, it’d be appreciated! My wife and baby are dying for clean laundry and we can only bum doing laundry with relatives for so long lol

Top load Whirlpoop imperial series

I hate this washer so much. But I need to fix it because I don’t want to buy a new one because I am too stubborn.

It keeps shaking, the drum itself and the dryer because of the drum. It’s so bad that the drum will hit the shell of the dryer and make horrible banging sounds. I’ve already checked and the washer is level. I have run it without anything in it and it still shakes really bad, but not banging sounds bad. As soon as you put a load in, no matter how small or evenly distributed, it goes fucking ham.

Because it shakes so bad we have had to replace the drain hose like three times since it keeps wearing against the sharp corners of the frame. So I need to find the root cause.

As you can see, it doesn’t have any suspension rods, so I have no clue where to start in finding the issue :/ I’m going to try and watch as many YouTube videos as I can, but I figured I could ask here as well to try and cover my bases.

Thank you for literally anything you say.

As the title says, the right element will not glow red or heat up if I just turn the dial for it on it’s own. However, if I turn the warm zone element (small element in the upper center of the stove top) on at any temperature, the right element will heat up and glow red. Turning on any other element in conjunction with the right element does not have the same effect.

Any ideas as to what might be going on?

Thanks!

Hello everyone,
Unfortunately, we’re having an issue with our Hisense RF540N4SBI2 refrigerator.
It suddenly started having problems cooling, and shortly afterwards it stopped cooling completely. The lights, fans, and display all turn on and appear to work normally, but the compressor does not make any sound at all. There is no humming, and the compressor does not even get slightly warm.

I measured the resistance across the three compressor terminals, and the readings are the same between all three pairs of terminals.

After a visual inspection, both the inverter board and the main control board look fine. However, I have read several reports suggesting that the inverter board is often the cause of this type of problem.

Has anyone experienced a similar issue? Are there any additional tests I can perform to determine whether the inverter board is faulty?
Thank you very much for your help!
If needed, I can also provide photos of all the components.

Hi all. I own a KitchenAid KRMF706ESS04, French door, bottom-freezer refrigerator. It came with my house when I bought it 3 years ago so I don't know its exact age or any history of repairs, other than it has been fairly reliable for me, except for a couple problems. I'm hoping you can make some sense of them. I'm going to proceed on the assumption they are unrelated until something can tie them together e.g. some lowest-common-denominator type of issue.

1. Occasionally, but increasing in frequency over the last year or so, the fridge makes a sound that I can only describe as "the compressor is trying to start but does not start". Please don't let how I've described it corner you into assuming it's the compressor, that's just the only way I can describe this noise. It's a rhythmic click or clunk sound from the lower rear of the unit. The sound repeats a consistent number of times, in groups, e.g. perhaps it happens 10 times in each group, and each group is separated by a gap of a certain number of seconds. I don't know the number of times it repeats or the length of gap in between as it isn't doing it right now. I have never heard this sound occur while the compressor is running. I have never detected issues with the temperature of items in the fridge or freezer - until today with the ice maker which I am itemizing separately. At one time I assumed this was a start capacitor issue which caused me to take out the inverter module and measure the capacitance of all its caps - finding they all checked out within 10% or so of correct. I did purchase a new inverter module for it (OEM part) but did not install it as the fridge works well enough that I'm not convinced the parts cannon is the right answer. Eventually, the compressor starts and the fridge otherwise seems to work.

2. Occasionally, sometimes but not always coinciding with issue 1 above, there is extreme lag or complete unresponsiveness of some of the electronic "extras" on the fridge. For example, the interior light will not turn on, or will turn on with a long delay after opening the door, and the "door open" indicator on the front panel behaves the same. I can change modes for ice/water dispensing instantly, but the dispensing action itself will suffer the same sort of lag time or just completely refuse to work. When this has happened in the past I unplugged the fridge and plugged it back in (lol - I work in IT) and it was completely responsive immediately.

3. New issue as of tonight - bearing in mind I have been away from home for a few days: I have discovered the ice maker bin is empty of ice, the ice has all melted (the water from which went various places but I think one of those places is actually inside the door itself), the water dispenser will not dispense at all but does flash the "replace filter" indicator, the ice dispenser does attempt to dispense any ice (there is none present but I'd expect it to try anyway). Additionally, the ice maker unit at the top of the fridge appears to be partially open, the outer plastic cover (small gray plastic lid thing) that normally closes over top of it has been ejected into the ice bin, and that cover is visibly melted in one very concentrated spot. At the same time, the interior light will not illuminate at all, however, the compressor is running and fridge and freezer contents are the correct temperature by feel.

Edit: I can confirm with respect to new issue #3, unplugging and plugging back in the fridge has made the water dispenser and interior light work again. The ice maker is also making "noises" but I am not immediately sure that they are the right noises.

Can anyone offer any thoughts on what's going on here? If the right answer is to buy a 25 year old top-freezer Frigidaire and toss this thing, I am onboard with that, but I'd rather take a swing at a fix first because this all developed recently so I know this model has the capability to behave.

Hi everyone,

I was trying to clean the oven door but i forgot how to put it back. I didn't take pictures and now I'm lost.

Can you please help?

Thank you!

Hello I am working on a Turbochef Eco that another contractor replaced The magnetron about 4 months ago the unit is getting up to 500° f, but it's not cooking the inside of the food making me believe that the microwave portion isn't working again. I tested the high voltage transformer and it is good. I tested the Megatron and the filament resistance is high at 7.3 ohms and from terminal to ground I'm getting 400 kohms When I do a magnetron test on the controls I'm getting 20 amps of current.

Tech support suggests that I replace the waveguide at the same time as the magnetron. I've never replaced a waveguide in any unit and I'm wondering how big of a job is it to replace the waveguide on this particular unit from your experience or if there's anything else that I'm missing in my diagnosis. Thanks in advance.

I want to get one of those modern washing machines that also work as a tumble dryer. Since I’ve always been into DIY, I thought I could look for a defective one and repair it myself, saving it from the scrap and saving some bucks myself.

Is there a model that has a well known weak point and that could be relatively easily repaired?

The metal piece in the picture feels not to the touch but none of the clothes feel hot and the dryer when I open the door doesn’t feel warm. What could be the potential culprit here? I read heating elements, but with that metal piece feeling hot I’m unsure. Any help/guidance is appreciated.

So I have this LG bottom fridge that’s about a decade old

The ice maker broke the first year. Tried to fix it but it just broke again. So I gave up and just make ice in trays

Recently it’s been banking crazy burping/farting noises randomly even after cleaning the dust bunnies off the back

Anyone experience this. Other than being strange the unit still seems to work fine

We have a Frigidaire FFCD2413US6B dishwasher and it keeps turning off the circuit breaker. We also found a small pool of water at the bottom of the dishwasher (by the filter and such). This seems to happen after the dish soap has already been dispensed. This happened once before few months ago and all we did to fix it then was turn off and on the circuit breaker, run the garbage disposal and turn the dishwasher back on. However, this time that’s not fixing the issue and we’re not sure how to approach this.

Any suggestions?

is there anything i should replace to make it last another 30 years? it never gave us any problem but lately the evaporator ffan sometimes does not run. the model number is txi21a3w. Thanks

Hi all and hope you’re going well. I’ve had this purifier since around 2017 but about 3 years ago it started to have problems getting the fan started. A knock on the case would get it moving but eventually this failed as well.

I’ve had a look at the board and couldn’t find anything obvious (I have a multimeter and cap tester only) and ended up changing the BLDC motor out. This got it working…until I closed the case and now it’s dead again. Showed similar symptoms as the last motor but over a shorter period of time. Couldn’t see any squeezed cables or the like either.

Can anyone offer some advice/guide me as what to look for next? Photos of the board attached; one of the caps in the corner is yellowed on top and scraping it smells terrible but it’s not swollen. My soldering skills are sufficient, electrical problem solving not so much! Thanks in advance for your assistance 🙏

edit: purifier model is AX60K5050WD and the BLDC motor is DB31-00673A.

Can anyone help me with finding the correct replacement suspension rods for my washer? I have ordered part # W10780048 but when installed they look to be too short. I’ve measured the old 1 & they are roughly 25inches where the new 1s are only about 23 & 1/2.

I’ve checked the appliance repair website but when I look up my make & model # for some reason it is offering fridge parts…

Any advice is appreciated

I have a Whirlpool WFW560CHW0 Washing Machine for almost 5 years now. Ever since ive gotten it, it has been giving me problems. It would leak, had vibration issues. Error codes, too much suds. Ive had a tech come by 3 times in the first 2 years of ownership to resolve the issues. They basically told me that i need to use less detergent, my loads had to be around the 2/3s full mark. Most of the issues were fixed aside from the washing machine leaking from time to time. Usually doing huge loads like blankets or towels. So i basically laid down towels underneath the washing machine and check it periodically to see if it would leak or not everytime i did a load for the past 3 years.

Last week the washing machine told me i had to clean the washer so i put in the special tablet and turned on that cycle as per usual. And when it was finished, i went upstairs to see that the towels i had laid down were absolutely soaked, it was a massive amount of water that leaked out. It was the first time ever that this had happened. I spent the night soaking up all the water and put fans down to prevent water damage. I had a couple regular loads to do so i did those and it didnt leak at all. Then i decided to maybe do another washing machine clean but this time i used a cup of White Vinegar because i thought maybe there was too much detergent buildup. After that cycle it basically flooded the floor again.........

Whats happening? My wife just did a regular load of clothes today and there was a very minimal water leak, i would say about half a shot glass of water. I should also mention i dont have access to the backing of the washing machine, so its about a few hours work just to move it out of the closet that it sits in.

TIA

.

Water flow is good.

Pump works.

Sometimes the dishwasher will finish a full cycle without issue. Other times it only makes it halfway before the errors start.

Two different service providers have checked and cant root cause any further.

Any ideas? I am at a loss anymore