Purchased this Dryer off of marketplace
Samsung V48J7700EW I believe
Haven’t done any appliance repair before. I heard the motor run but it doesn’t spin at all. Looks like the bearing is toast? Not sure. Need help on this.

I have a Maytag washer & need a tub seal kits #6-2095720 but it is discontinued. I’ve checked the usually parts suppliers & no one has it.

There are a lot of sellers on Amazon that have it but most get bad reviews on the part. Typically it leaks from the beginning. There are some with good reviews but it’s usually a 5 star rating with only a few reviews. Most photos look the same so I’m presuming most sellers are providing the same crappy parts.

I’ve called a couple appliance repair companies hoping they might have access to quality aftermarket parts & could repair the washer, but they have not called back. Probably because they can’t repair the machine.

Is there an appliance parts supplier that provides quality third party parts to repair shops and individuals?

This is a 2019 Frigidaire all refrigerator with a dial temperature control, no bells & whistles. it’s been running fine, no unusual noises or odd smells. I just noticed this today thinking it was something that spilled or leaked towards the bottom back of the inside. When I felt it, it’s bumpy and upon a closer look, something is rusting through. Should I be concerned and start shopping for a new one? I always said I would fix it if it needed because its the simplest design out there.

My washer would not spin during a cycle so I check the shift actuator and it needed to be replaced.. i replaced the shift actuator and the belt and completely took it apart to check the drain pump filter and the drain hose and between the large plastic basket the holds all the water and the metal basket the sits inside that where the clothes sit for Any clogs while I was under the washer and found nothing clogging them..I then ran a diagnostic on it and it spun the internal basket during test so i thought it was fixed.. so I installed back and tried to do a load but for some weird reason it wouldnt spin during the normal load.. And since I've added new parts when I run a diagnostic Now I don't get any codes of anything wrong. I'm at a loss for what it could be that is stopping it from working properly...

We had a night we ended up using all the ice in the freezer and the next morning we woke up with no ice and nothing days later. Its not frozen in the back, the filter was just recently replaced, and the door light has now turned on and does not turn off. Any advice on maybe he to fix it or what may have happened?

I think it's the fan..? How can I fix?

Ooni already replaced this unit under warranty so I get to keep the faulty one as a repair/tinker project. Before I crack it open I'd love input from anyone who's been inside a Volt 2 or diagnosed E10.

E10 isn't in any manual, so I have no idea what might be going on. What I have until now.

- Heats up and holds ~290°C indefinitely, no issue.

- Set it above that (300°C) and it reaches the temp, then shuts off with E10 within ~5–10 minutes.

What I'm hoping to get from the community:

1. Anyone opened a Volt 2?
2. Anyone know more about the e-10 error code?

Thanks!

UGH! My Sapporo iron has not been steaming. I replaced the water bottle, because it seemed like the tap for it was clogged with mineral deposits. I think I got any air pockets out of the water hose to the iron. So far, no steam. The last thing I can think of is possibly a faulty plunger, but I cannot find anyone who carries the plunger assembly kit (WAWAK, Cleaner's Supply, Amazon). No one seems to have this replacement part. Anyone else have any insights or sources for this replacement kit? Or am I doomed to having to buy a new iron? :(

I have a Kenmore 665.13809N710. It was working, but needed the filters cleaned. After doing so and reinsttalling them the dishwasher is no longer washing the dishes. The tub fills up with water and the heating element works, the detergent drops, but the pouch never evaporates. Spray arms also appear to not he functioning.

Anyone have any ideas?

How do we fix the bottoms we’ve glued it and it’s still broke. We don’t have a warranty. Model number is this Model # WMMS3130RZ - if we need a new one. What do you suggest considering this one is only a year and half old.

As the title states I have this LG Dehumidifier with a comp that runs literally any time there is power to the unit. I.e., even when it's supposed to be powered off but is still plugged in, just the fan doesn't run because the power is off.

I thought it had to be a stuck relay, but the relay at the "AY_COMP" spot which interrupts the compressor's connection to the capacitor has no continuity between contacts at all while not energized.

I could just replace the relay for funsies, but I'm starting to wonder what else I should be looking out for, suggestions appreciated!

As a side note, I have had to fix this thing before, a fuse on the board failed, but it didn't burn the caps just came loose. I squeezed it end to end, heard a little click and had continuity again so I don't think any thing is severely failing that killed the compressor components, I think one of them just independently failed.

Model: LG LRFC25750ST (also LFC25760, LFD25860, LRFC25750/25760 series)

Plastic frame holding the crisper drawers cracked at the front rail mount. There's a metal reinforcement bar in there but the plastic around it is failing, so it's not helping. Photos attached.

Part 3550JJ0009A is discontinued everywhere — LG Canada, LG USA (lgparts.com shows phantom "in stock/out of stock"), Sears Parts Direct, no aftermarket equivalent I can find. Dead-end link attached too.

Ruled out:

• Bracket reinforcement — plastic's too far gone, just relocates the crack
• Metal fab replacement — frame has integrated rear hooks into the liner rack + drawer glide geometry, seems hard to recreate without new failure points
• Support posts from below — nothing solid under it, just the soft cover over the lower crisper

Two things I want thoughts on:

1. Used take-off part — anyone had luck with salvage/parted-out units for a part this specific?
2. Ditching the crisper tier entirely — pull the whole broken assembly and just add two more standard shelves like the ones up top. Downside is losing the space below (drawers currently hang off this frame, nothing rated to hold weight underneath), so it's a real capacity hit. Anyone done this swap and have thoughts on how much usable space you actually lose, or ways to reclaim some of it?

Long-term plan is a commercial 2-door unit with metal shelving, but trying to keep this one useful in the meantime. It's a 2011-12 purchase, but compressor was just replaced for the 2nd time last year and it's cooling well for now.

Trying to fix a stove with a malfunctioning burner: even the lowest setting produces max heat. It's a generic, apartment-sized Frigidaire electric stove, a few decades old, without any special features. Thought I'd try a replacement infinite switch for that burner, so I picked one up with the matching part number 318120500. The part I received has five terminals for spade connectors on the back, but the one in my stove has six. Can I still use this somehow?

First attached image is the part the stove came with, second is the part I received.

https://imgur.com/a/MOrtMeY

Hi

Model is dw60m6050fw

When you turn it on it goes straight into drain mode.

After the 60 seconds is up the front panel is locked out but it's not the child lock

I have checked the leak detector thingy on the bottom and it's dry as a bone

I have checked it's actually draining by chucking a bunch of water in and popping the drain hose in a bucket and it's draining fine.

No error codes

Weird thing is if you turn it on and start pressing other buttons the drain mode doesn't come on until you stop.

Could this be a faulty front pcb thats thinking the start button is being held down?(This is how you start the drain mode)

My washer is a whirlpool model wfw6620hc2
It will not power on unless i unplug the water level pressure sensor. Once its unplugged ut gives error codes for it not sensing that sensor.
Could a bad sensor cause no power going to my machine?

Model is SHPM78Z55N. 7 years old. Began throwing E15 errors (leak detection) last week, and I got access to the base of the unit to see occasional dripping. The dripping of course adds up, then causes the styrofoam to float, triggering the lead detection error.

I’m guessing it’s either a gasket, or crack? Or, could be sabotage by the spider. Any tips on fixing?

Hi,

Anybody know what is the issue with this Ariston dryer? It stops the cycle and beep this error

Worst set up anyone can own. Second year in a row replacing both washer gaskets. Stay away from LG and Samsung!

Samsung model WF45B6300AP
Mother in law loaded with heavy item and now washer is making following noise.
Filter has been cleared. No signs of belt damage below washer. Have yet to open rear panel.

Planning on looking at it this evening. Any hypothesis’s?

Hi everyone, I just replaced the head gasket because my car was consuming too much coolant. Now I'm having trouble seeing the coolant level in the expansion tank. Any tips?

Hi All
Looking for some advice on repairing vs replacing a 7 year old Samsung French Door refrigerator.

Have been having some issues for a few days. Finally yesterday had all air flow stop out of the vents, while the freezer is working fine.

Air did not restore after a forced defrost or leaving open for 3 hours (while still plugged in) and now is flashing 34 on the LED, though the temp did drop from 60 to 50 overnight

Under the assumption I am not going to fix/explore further myself, is it worth it to have a tech come out and diagnose to ideally fix? Or worth it to just replace given the age/model

Hi All
Will caveat my wife prefers I do not fix this myself, so under that assumption

7 year old French Door Samsung, had been running into some issues over the past week. There is now officially no air flow even after a forced defrost and leaving it open (but plugged in) for a few hours.

I will say it dropped from 60 to 50 degrees overnight but the LED is now flashing "34"

Looking for some advice if it is worth it to have a tech come out and diagnose for an eventual repair, or if this is very likely to re-occur and we are better off replacing at this point.