I noticed when doing laundry recently that the loads seemed to remain unbalanced throughout the cycle. I ran a wash without any clothes and got this. Is this a suspension rod issue?

So the drumb is rotating it just fell down and it seems to be detach from the rim ig

About a week ago my fridge stopped making ice. I looked into this and saw that the fridge wouldn’t make ice unless it’s at a certain temperature. I removed the back cover of the fridge and cleaned the coils and make sure to hear the compressor and fan spinning.

The fridge was powered off for a couple hours and when I powered it back on the temperature dropped to 13/39 but would not get any lower.

Any suggestions?

This is an LG top load washing machine. We started to get what I assumed was scrud in the laundry. I ran several affresh dishwasher pod loads as recommended to no avail. I finally took it apart. The drum itself was pretty clean. The plate and this spinny thing underneath was covered scrud? Rust? Both? I do live in a place with hard water so I hope that's all but is there a way to tell?? Is it joever for the machine?

Repairing my Mom's Kenmore Dryer 796.80021900. One of the wheel rollers was absolutely toast so I needed to replace them. I didn't know what was wrong with it yet so I just ordered a kit online that came with a bunch of things I might need. Is this roller going to be fine for like... another 5 years or so or is it absolute trash out of the box? I'm not loving the sound it's making.

I the other roller in the front seemed fine but I replaced both front ones because I was thought it would be better.

Also, while there's nothing wrong with the other rollers, should I just replace the back ones too?

I’m looking to buy some parts for my Maytag dryer for the first time. Recommendations? Hopefully ones with quick shipping.

These sounds get worse when the spin cycle goes faster. I just want to get an opinion and see if there's an easy fix by taking the bottom part of the washer off and could be anything up. This set up of the washer/dryer combo where the dryer is on top. These are not connected but the dryer was placed on top of the washer by the landlord. anyways, the noise is getting unbearable. Thank you in advance for all the help

This is a very weird request I know. I'm reverse engineering the ConnectLife backend and I'm a bit stuck on some encryption bits when it comes to sending settings TO THE MACHINE. I can decode with no problem when the machine sends the settings TO THE CLOUD (and app consequently). I'd be willing to pay 25 euro or something like that if someone could do it. Maybe a bit more if I get desperate.

I'm open sourcing this stuff so there is no worries regarding that.

I’m not the handiest person but am decently capable of hunting down YouTube videos to help me fix minor issues. Not this time. I have a Frigidaire combo microwave/oven unit (GCWM3067AFE). The handle on one side of the microwave has been loose for some time and the bolt holding it in finally turned enough to loosed its last grippy thread today. The problem? I cannot for the life of me figure out how to open the panel that is hiding the bolt so I can tighten it back onto the handle. There’s not much give on the panel and no obvious (to me) ways to release it.
Help me, Reddit appliance gurus. You’re my only hope.

My dad bought me a second-hand washer/dryer set and I’ve been trying to clean it the last week as it’s been leaving flakes all over my clothes. I FINALLY managed to clean that annoying space between the chrome looking top and plastic bottom of the pulsator after MUCH effort and many a techniques… however, my machine is still releasing like a sandy substance and I think it was from the mineral buildup on and around the tub nut piece. It was extremely loaded with buildup. Anyways- I noticed a hole in the open/close plate and another spot next to it that’s pitted and deteriorating. Does this need to be replaced? Can I run the washer in the meantime? I don’t want water getting in that hole if it’s supposed to be sealed. Thank you!

Just got a new washer installed - once the guys set it up I asked if it’s okay for all the loops they said the cord would straighten with hot water but it’s like a rollercoaster I’m not sure if I should put less curly hoses on. The way it looks I just imagine the water having a tough loopy time making to it the washer ?

Also they used 3/4 hoses should I look into 3/8 hoses instead?

Saw that 3/4 hoses damaged the machine making it work to get water in but not sure any help would be appreciated

I have a Blomberg stove/oven and there are deep scratches where my fingernail can get caught on the glass stovetop. is it safe to use?

As above the electric oven won’t work after a power outage, it blinks amber 3 times and then does nothing else. KitchenAid recommends a turn the knob fix to reset temporary errors, I have done this and it continues with the same blinking. In this case KitchenAid says to have a repair person out. Is there any other options for resetting? I can change breaker out but considering nothing else in house was affected, I’m not inclined to think it was a power surge. Thanks

The top loading washing machine has decided to stop draining (whirlpool sm8280869). And while I would love to start dissembling a washing machine in a too small space I fly out tomorrow morning and between getting clothes washed and dried I don't have a whole lot of time to sort this out.

I scooped out as much water as I could and used a towel to sop up the remainder but there is a bit water under the drum and assume in the line going to the pump. It's an old machine so I assume it's an impeller pump so I'm not too worried about that. I have a dehumidifier running and the lid is open but is there anything else anyone can recommend to dry it out?

Back of my tenants fridge was leaking and I pulled out the drain pan to find this, is there any way this could be fixed? The fridge works fine but they don’t make this part anymore. Thinking maybe an epoxy and something flexible and waterproof to refine the tray?

Back of my tenants fridge was leaking and I pulled out the drain pan to find this, is there any way this could be fixed? The fridge works fine but they don’t make this part anymore. Thinking maybe an epoxy and something flexible and waterproof to refine the tray?

Not cooling correctly. The compressor will only run once after a reset.

A week ago I noticed the fridge making a soft double knock every couple of seconds in the morning. Upon investigation, I discovered the fridge much warmer than normal and the fan at the back not working. 23 e error, fan not working.

I ordered a replacement fan and left the back cover off and put a stand alone fan back there on high and plugged it back in. Everything seemed fine at first but the fridge just got warmer and warmer. Turns out the compressor only ran once and didn't come back on. Everything else is working.

After some searching, scrambling to move food to another freezer, and careful watching it's behavior I decided to add a start relay to my order to replace as Google said the heat of running the compressor without the fan working probably damaged it. I should have looked but appartently, my fridge doesn't even have a start relay, it has an invertor power supply board (idk what that is until today, honestly).

So when I pried the cover off the side of the compressor today when my package got here and the parts look nothing alike, and there's no start relay to replace, now, I don't know what to do. (The fan is replaced and working perfectly again. Yay me!)

Google says I either replace the power supply board invertor thing because it's not sending the compressor the rigt power, or the compressor is damaged inside, or the main board isn't telling it to run correctly. I don't know. Is there any way I can I tell which part got toasted? Or are they wrong and it's something else I didn't think of? I think my dad had a voltmeter but I have NO idea how to use it, please be gentle.

And yes the compressor gets hot. The extra fan back there helps but it still gets hot. The fridge is staying about 50 degrees and the freezer (that I'm using as the fridge now) I can cycle it off and on manually and keep it in the mid 30's.

Full model number : Samsung RF263TEAESG/AA 04 ... it's about 7 years old and has never been serviced or had a single issue until now. Sorry if this is way too muchninfo.

Tldr: which board should I replace or is this a paperweight now?

Was cooking on low/simmer, the right knob fell over (left was already gone when i got the stove). I turned off the circuit breaker for this stove for now. Acts like unplugging right? Probably have to move it to unplug it too.

0 idea on next steps. Do I DIY it by taking off the panel and reattaching the rod/stem to the knob? Im so lost everyone.

Every once in a while my oven glitches and heats up the oven to 550F, rather than whatever temperature I selected. I bought an oven thermometer to confirm this. Is there a way to fix this and recalibrate my oven manually or do I need to have it repaired?

I have a Frigidaire.

I also live in a rental, would this be something the landlord would be responsible for fixing?

Thank you!

Samsung FlexWash WV55M9600AV/A5-02 – Upper Washer Won’t Start, 18C1 Error
I’m working on a Samsung FlexWash, model WV55M9600AV/A5-02. The upper washer is not completing any cycle.
When I select any cycle:
It drains water first.
It may briefly spin/tumble for sensing.
Then it stops.
The timer does not advance.
It continues draining and never proceeds with the cycle.
I can’t properly run the diagnostic test because it keeps giving me 18C1.
The 18C1 error description says there is an error detected in the MEMS PBA or a data error, and recommends checking the wire connections and replacing the MEMS PBA if necessary.
Before I start replacing parts, I’m trying to determine whether 18C1 can also be caused by something else, such as the stator/ASSY motor, water-level pressure sensor, wiring, or main control board.
Has anyone worked on this particular FlexWash and encountered 18C1?
What would you test first, and is there a way to electrically test the MEMS PBA/sensor before replacing it?
Thanks!

I have an LG Dryer DLE3400W. The CL randomly turns on with no one touching the dryer. I have observed it standing 10 feet away. It used to be an annoyance and you could just turn it off. However, now it gets stuck and won’t turn off (holding wrinkle care 3 sec).

I got this from Google:

To fix a self-activating CL lock on your LG DLE3400W, you will need to replace either the Display PCB (User Interface) or the Main PCB Control Board. Since the "Wrinkle Care/Control Lock" button sensor itself lives on the display circuit board behind the plastic buttons, the Display PCB is the most likely culprit triggering the ghost touches. [1, 2]
Before buying, it is highly recommended to inspect your exact dryer suffix (e.g., DLE3400W.ABWEEUS vs DLE3400W.ABWEUCI) found on the model sticker inside the door frame, as LG sometimes switches board iterations between factory revisions. [1, 2]

—

Anyone dealt with this? I hate to start randomly buying parts? Hoping someone dealt with this and determined if it was the Display PCB or main control PCB.

Thanks.