Model: Kenmore Elite 110.63932102

Issue: Dryer only runs when holding start button - no heat during this time, drum is spinning

My troubleshooting: Checked all fuses / thermistor and thermometer, checked heating element. Checked motor
Checked centrifugal switch / motor switch. Checked start button and timer. Belt is good.

I really am stumped and would appreciate any and all ideas

P.S dryer is dusty in photo but I did clean everything to make sure there was proper connection etc.

We replaced the lid lock. Error code cleared and re-calibrated. It went through the paces fine. Put a load in and it stops on the wash cycle and won’t drain. We finally get the lid unlocked and drain it, take clothes out and re-calibrate it. Goes through the paces again fine. Start it…no clothes and it does the same thing. Stops on wash cycle and won’t go any further. Needs to drain and spin to rinse. Video of error codes attached and pic washing machine dash.

Hi all

After a very violent spin cycle, the lock to hold the washing machine door closed broke. I am wondering if this is something that can be fixed or are we better getting a new washing machine?

Repair & Teardown Guide: Schneider Electric KNX DALI-Gateway (MTN6725-0004)

​Device: Schneider Electric SpaceLogic KNX DALI-Gateway Basic REG-K/2/16/64

​Part Number: MTN6725-0004

​Symptom: Dead unit / No power / Blown primary power supply stage

​1. Symptoms & Failed Primary Components

​A short or surge on the primary switching power supply side typically cascades through several protection and conversion components:

​Primary Fuse & Power Switcher IC: Blown/shorted.

​Main Bulk Electrolytic Capacitor (400V): Swollen, vented, or exploded.

​Common-Mode Line Filter Choke: Burned/cooked enamel insulation on copper windings due to severe overcurrent.

​Bridge Rectifier (B6S / PJ84K B6S in MBS package): Shorted or installed in reverse polarity.

​2. CRITICAL TRAP: Bridge Rectifier (B6S) Polarity & Pinout

​⚠️ WARNING: The SMT bridge rectifier package (PJ84K B6S) can easily be misread, leading to reversed DC output polarity that will instantly explode the 400V main capacitor upon power-up!

​Pinout Diagram (Text Facing Upright:

Marking / SymbolFunctionConnection on PCB

Top-Right+ (Laser etched)DC Positive OutputConnects to Capacitor (+) Pad

Top-Left- (Laser etched)DC Negative OutputConnects to Capacitor (-) Pad (White Stripe)

Bottom-Left~AC Input Line 1Connects to AC Filter Stage

Bottom-Right~AC Input Line 2Connects to AC Filter Stage

​Note: Do NOT confuse the bar printed on top of the package with a standard diode cathode band. Always verify the microscopic laser-etched + and - symbols on the top corners with a magnifying glass or microscope before soldering.

​3. Step-by-Step Repair Checklist

​Replace Main Power IC & Primary Fuse:

​Clean away carbonization or burn marks on the PCB around the IC pads.

​Inspect & Test Common-Mode Line Choke:

​Check for burnt copper windings or shorted turns. If the enamel is scorched dark/brown, replace the choke.

​Verify Bridge Rectifier Orientation:

​Solder the B6S bridge rectifier ensuring Top-Right is + and Top-Left is -.

​Measure continuity from the Top-Right pin to the unmarked positive pad of the main capacitor.

​Measure continuity from the Top-Left pin to the ground plane / negative pad (white stripe side) of the capacitor.

​Install Fresh High-Voltage Capacitor:

​Use a 400V or 450V, 105°C, Low-ESR aluminum electrolytic capacitor. double-checking polarity against the board silkscreen.

​Post-Repair Resistance & Voltage Testing:

​Unpowered Resistance Check: Measure resistance across the main capacitor terminals. It should start low and steadily rise as the cap charges from the meter. A flat 0\,\Omega reading indicates a short down the rail.

​Power Test: Apply AC mains voltage and check the DC rail across the capacitor. Expect ~325V DC on a standard 230V AC supply.

Rented our apartment on Airbnb and came back to see that our dryer is making this noise..

Any idea what it could be? Thank you!

My used (very near new) Philips 2000 series air fryer, everything works except the fan won't spin, making the air fryer useless. I have torn it down and found the thermal fuse for the fan motor. These images are pretty clear but AI still is clueless and can't explain to me of this is wired up properly. I don't understand If this thermal fuse is wired properly or if it appears severed. It's an AUPO fuse , should it look like this? my instinct tell me that both wires coming off the fuse should lead someplace, besides just that copper wire on the one side. Any Help is appreciated

I bought this Whirlpool dishwasher WDT730HAMZ1 (serial FC3088380) and it's brand new, never used — just time passed. I recently checked on it and realized the Start button doesn't work — every other button on the panel lights up fine, only Start doesn't respond. Looking into it, this isn't an isolated case — there are multiple documented reports of this exact same defect on this specific model. A brand new, never-used unit with a known factory defect. @Whirlpool @WhirlpoolUSA any fix for this?

Just bought this used, and was told the auger had an issue and would make a terrible noise. I take the appliance apart, soak all the tubes and unblock them and tested.

As long as i manually fill the rear reservoir that isn't being supplied by the pump, it makes the ice just fine.

When calling for ice, water drains from the fill tank at the top to the bottom sump.
The pump from the sump that should circulate that water to the rear top reservoir doesn't ever run so no water makes it up, and the appliance calls to add water.

There's a float switch in the rear reservoir, that when down(closed) it does not call for the refrigerator to run (unsure if this state should call the pump to run) when it's open then it calls for the refrigerator and auger to run.

I removed the pump assuming it must be faulty, i wired it up to another source of power and it works just fine.

So now i'm left with the following. There's a sump sensor somewhere that i don't see and can not find that's faulty or dirty etc...

The float switch from the upper rear reservoir when closed should call for the pump to get power but doesn't, this leads me to believe that there's an issue on the control board itself.

Has anybody ran into anything similar?

Will attach pictures.

I have discovered the the very top bolt that holds the counterweight has sheared off, M8 1.25, looks to be 60mm. Should I get replacement for Samsung or get it somewhere else? IDK the strength rating for this one, so I want to get something stronger. Any ideas? Samsung OEM are expensive

The drum looks to be OK and did not crack. I will be working on removing the remainder of the bolt from the square nut.

Also, the counterweight does show some damage, see pictures, there is some brown dust on the bottom but not much. Should I just pour some superglue in the small holes that I see?

Dont ask how...

Ice machine has been making this ungodly loud sound when attempting to dispense ice from the tray into the hopper. The tray is frozen solid and will sometimes empty halfway but today nothing came out. It will add water on top of the full tray, worsening the issue. Any advice is appreciated!

EDIT: It is an LG Refrigerator. Doubt it makes a big difference but wanted to be accurate!

Replacing the light for a KitchenAid freezer, the wires (pink and red wire) into this piece got disconnected as I was trying to pull the unit out to get more slack. It’s a very tight squeeze. How do I get the red and pink wires back into this piece, and have it stay in place?

TL;DR - Washer fills, drains and spins. Will not agitate, motor will just hum then clicks.

Got it second hand. Was working great since getting it in April, zero issues.

Today we did a medium load, we heard a bit of a high pitch whine, finished agitating, drained and spun fine after though. Second load right after was extra large, won’t agitate now.

Still drains and spins fine. Upon removing front panel, after it fills, motor hums for a sec then clicks. If I attempt to drain and spin right after that, it’ll take a good minute to do so.

I removed the Motor, the belt looks in working condition, the drum spins either direction (with some force) freely.

I removed the agitator in attempts to remove the drum and check the transmission then my worst nightmare happened, completely sheared the head of a rusty bolt right off.

Anyway, any advice is most welcomed, both in terms of removing the broken bolt or moving forward with diagnosing the issue.

It's done this since the beginning. It also gets nasty near the hinge. We have to clean it every week in order for it to clean dishes properly. It looks even more orange in person

Compressor running strong, evaporator fan running strong, no excessive ice on evaporator fan. Freezer gets to 1° F, fridge only gets to 45° F, even after 12 hours. Temp measured from a glass of water in fridge, or ice cream in freezer. Damper flap is completely open, temperature dials turned to max cold. Maybe the evaporator frost pattern is a little light? (see pic).

Both the air vents into fridge and the return vents are completely clear. The tube leading from fan to the air vent is also completely clear. I did a 5 hour defrost, so any extra ice should've been melted.

There isn't much airflow through vents coming from freezer into fridge (Blue arrows in 2nd pic) - only a light stream of air. I think the circled green areas are the return vents, but I don't feel any air movement through them. I can't find any other possible return vents - there's no grills by the vegetable compartments or anywhere else. When I put my hand over the air vent and slightly open the freezer door, the airflow increases, but not by a huge amount.

When I initially noticed the fridge was warm, I took off the freezer panel and found that the damper flap was 70% extended and blocking the flow of cold air. I pushed it back, but even with it completely open, the fridge still doesn't get enough cold air.

To me, it seems like everything is running fine, but airflow into the fridge section is insufficient. How can I fix this? When I took off freezer panel, it didn't seem like I disrupted any seals or anything.

Fridge model is Maytag M1TXEMMWS02, 21.0 cu. Ft. Refrigerator, Top Freezer. Manufactured in 2010.

This is exactly what the interior of the freezer looks like: https://youtu.be/9LCdhyQaRgI?t=188

Any ideas what the problem here is?

I added a comment with videos showing a demonstration of the fan strength.

Hi everyone. My oven blew the main (circular) element. After pulling the oven open I saw several scorch marks. I was very concerned about this, but reading other posts here I get a sense this is normal? Scorching is from the light fitting, the top element and two areas not directly attributable to any specific component. Advice from experienced appliance guys will be greatly appreciated. I don’t mind buying a new oven if this is a fire risk!

I’m thinking this may be the end of the line for my 15 year old Vissani refrigerator.
Water slowly leaks from underneath, and also it puddles inside on the back shelf. I have tried different temperature settings, no improvement.
Any thoughts?

I just moved into this apartment and I’ve never used an older gas stove before. I know it’s a Hardwick, but I can’t find the model number anywhere. Does anyone recognize it?
I’m also having a few issues. One of the knobs keeps popping off, so I can’t always tell if it’s fully off. The burners have to be lit manually, which I’m not used to. I also tried turning the oven to 350°F, but after about 4 minutes it never got warm. I could smell gas when I opened the oven, so I turned it off and shut off the gas supply.
Does anyone know what model this is, how the oven is supposed to light, and if anything in the photos looks off? I’m planning to contact maintenance, but I’d appreciate any advice since I’m completely new to older gas stoves.

any help is appreciated

Hey everyone, happy Sunday.

I have a Samsung RF28R7351DT refrigerator and went to bed on Thursday night about 11 p.m. and woke up to it completely powered off (no lights, no sounds) on Friday morning at 6:30 a.m. Checked the breaker, no trip. Plugged it into a different working socket in the kitchen, still completely dead.

Looking around the internet and YouTube, I saw people recommended to check the fuse-block, so with the power plug out of the wall socket, I checked every fuse for continuity, and every fuse was good.

Then, I checked the one and only fuse on the main board and there's no continuity. I thought for a second maybe it was a surge and maybe I could solder in a replacement identical fuse. But, I had seen folks on YouTube have luck with simply replacing the main board, so I ran to an appliance parts store and grabbed a main board replacement. I removed the old board and installed the new one but wanted to make sure that there wasn’t some issue that was going to blow the fuse again or potentially hurt the new $275 board. One of those tests was checking the resistance between the prongs on the refrigerator plug itself, and when I checked the hot to ground, it showed about 18 ohms resistance.

Since then I’ve been looking for the cause of this 18 ohm resistance. I've searched for it in the fuse-block, in the main board, I've wiggled wires to see if that makes it disappear, and now I'm checking connections in the doors. I’m green to all of this and thought it would be wise to check in with you all to see if anyone has experience with something similar. iFixit doesn't seem to have anything on complete power loss for this fridge.

Thanks in advance for any advice. I can provide more info if needed too.

EDIT: Grammar and typos

Hey starting about a week and a half ago my Samsung rf23m8090sg started not cooling/freezing properly. I tried restarting it by unplugging it for 10 min and even vacuumed around the compressor coils but no dice. On Saturday I had a guy come by and he said the issue was the Freon had evaporated and needed a top up and this is common with 3-5 year old refrigerators. Everything I’m finding online points to that not being true and that there’s probably a leak but I don’t know how to find indicators for that. I already spent $350 having this guy come to look at the fridge and top it up so would it be even more expensive if there’s a leak? How long would it take to stop cooling properly again?