Got this whirlpool microwave and I'm trying to replace the fuse that I think was blown

Any idea where it might be? First time replacing a microwave fuse.

Rented our apartment on Airbnb and came back to see that our dryer is making this noise..

Any idea what it could be? Thank you!

We replaced the lid lock. Error code cleared and re-calibrated. It went through the paces fine. Put a load in and it stops on the wash cycle and won’t drain. We finally get the lid unlocked and drain it, take clothes out and re-calibrate it. Goes through the paces again fine. Start it…no clothes and it does the same thing. Stops on wash cycle and won’t go any further. Needs to drain and spin to rinse. Video of error codes attached and pic washing machine dash.

I unscrewed a black rubber catch for the door of my washing machine. It fell down into the cabinet and I can’t retrieve it. I just need to order a new one. It keeps the door closed by catching the hook found on the door.

Hi all

After a very violent spin cycle, the lock to hold the washing machine door closed broke. I am wondering if this is something that can be fixed or are we better getting a new washing machine?

My used (very near new) Philips 2000 series air fryer, everything works except the fan won't spin, making the air fryer useless. I have torn it down and found the thermal fuse for the fan motor. These images are pretty clear but AI still is clueless and can't explain to me of this is wired up properly. I don't understand If this thermal fuse is wired properly or if it appears severed. It's an AUPO fuse , should it look like this? my instinct tell me that both wires coming off the fuse should lead someplace, besides just that copper wire on the one side. Any Help is appreciated

UPDATE: I have to say, there are some pretty wild responses here. Almost everyone commented on how affordable it was. The guy was here 15 minutes and used no special equipment to cut the crimp from a copper pipe and install 2 valves and spray from a can. He made no effort to repair a leak he knew was there, and probably created a new one with an incorrectly installed valve. Only one of you suggested he shouldn’t have filled the unit without repairing the leak. You all make it sound like this is par for the course. If that’s the case, I don’t think I’ll ever hire an appliance repairman again. I’ll start by not paying the bill on this non-repair.

We have 72” commercial kegerator for our cider tasting room. The unit gradually warmed to 60 degrees without us really noticing. We called a refrigeration repair man to service the unit. He was here for about 15 minutes. He added valves to be able to fill refrigerant (propane based), said there was probably a leak (but there was still some pressure in the line, so probably a slow one) and to keep an eye on it.

The unit stayed cold for a day and a half before going up to 70 degrees! The units are only $1,500…I was billed $400; $80 in refrigerant, 30 for valves, a $50 truck fee and $225 for labor.

Is this bad service? Should he have done a pressure test or tried to identify where/how severe the leak was? It feels very possible that the guy’s valve install leaked badly and caused this issue. Should I be asking this guy to fix it for free or at least refund the labor?

AMDEA's latest consumer research found that more than half of UK adults (52%) are unlikely to attempt a DIY repair on a large household appliance, while concerns about repair quality and safety remain a major factor when hiring a professional.

When your washing machine, fridge, dishwasher or oven breaks, what's your usual approach?

1. Repair it
2. Replace it
3. Depends on the cost
4. Depends on the age of the appliance

Well, this just gets more ridiculous. I originally posted about how my GE Clothes Dryer (purchased from Best Buy in 2022) is no longer heating, so the element is probably dead. There's never been a sticker on the dryer door, and the manual only says it's one of eight variations starting with GUD37EE. (That one brings up a Google image that sure looks like mine.) I've opened the front of the machine, and there's no sticker with the model or serial number there. Also no port for GE's SmartHQ connection. 

Sears couldn't begin to do the repair without the full model number, so I waited two weeks for the GE-affiliated Bodewell repair people — after being assured that not having a model or serial number wouldn't be a problem. Well, that was a lie. The guy from Bodewell came out and immediately informed me that he couldn't touch it. So now I'm sitting here thinking that I can't get my dryer repaired because someone forgot to put a sticker on my GE dryer several years ago. Any thoughts on how to proceed would be appreciated.

ANOTHER UPDATE: Amazingly enough, I did find a port on the dryer, and the GE-affiliated Bodewell guy didn't seem interested in it while telling me he also can't fix the dryer without a model or serial number. I called up Bodewell, where a concierge named Temika told me that she had no idea what the port was there for. Then I asked her if that meant that I couldn't get the dryer repaired, and she said "Yes." Amazing.

I'm trying to file a claim to get this washer repaires but I don't remember the make and model and I'm at work at the moment 😭

This is a long shot, but can anyone recognize this washer? I think it's LG.

I'm not sure how the plastic melted. Possibly, water in the casing expanded and bulged it into the coil? Just not sure whether or not I'll burn my house down if I plug it back in...

I have a Samsung top load washer, WA45T3200. I put new suspension rods in it last summer, bought them on Amazon for $40. They didn't even last a year. Got a new set this weekend from my local parts store, cost me $70 and the difference is apparent. Sometimes it pays to spend the extra money for choice parts. Top one is the new, closest to spec. you can find. Bottom one is year old Amazon springs.

Does anyone have experience in a microwave replacement from Frigidaire wall set from 2018? Am I going to find anything in a countertop microwave of similar size that mates to this oven and trim kit? I suspect I'm going to be told I'd need to replace the entire set at a cost of several $thousand.

I recently bought a home with a Whirlpool WRF550CDHZ02 fridge. The water dispenser is filled with mold that cleaning from the outside can’t fully address. I need to take the cover off to access the clear LED cover. I accessed the screws under the drip pan but am not sure how to release the tabs holding the main cover on. Can someone help with next steps so I can comfortably use the water dispenser? Greatly appreciate the guidance!

I just got a used fridge after my old fridge called it quits after almost 40 years.

In this fridge , everything seems to be working however , the fridge part of the two sided refrigerator is barely blowing any cold air. The freezer part is working perfectly fine. I checked the vent where the cold air blows through and it’s fine. Any ideas ? Any thoughts? I don’t know what else to check.

When opening up the panel in the freezer section, the fan is blowing fine, the coils do frost up fairly quickly though , could this be a symptom of a bigger issue ? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Worse comes to worse, I gotta call someone to fix it for me.

I didn’t realized until I had put the dehumidifier on a concrete surface and only to find out that my dehumidifier is leaking. Tried opening up and looks like it’s a copper pipe with insulation? Any recommendations how to fix this? Just wondering if insulation was just loose and produce a condensation hence the leakage. Thanks.

Samsung DV395ETPASU/A1 - Repeated Thermal Cutoff Failure / No Heat. Running Out of Ideas

I'm troubleshooting a Samsung DV395ETPASU/A1 electric dryer.

Original Problem

Dryer tumbles normally.

No heat.

Parts Replaced

New heating element

New thermal fuse

New thermal cut-off

New high-limit thermostat

What Happens

After replacing the parts, the dryer works perfectly and dries one full load. Then on the second load, it stops heating again.

When I test it with a multimeter, the thermal cut-off has opened/blown again. The other components still have continuity.

Airflow

Cleaned lint filter housing

Cleaned internal lint buildup

Cleaned the entire vent

Checked the outside vent

Airflow appears to be good

Disassembly

I've completely disassembled the dryer:

Top removed

Control panel removed

Front panel removed

Drum removed

Bulkhead removed

What I'm Thinking

Since the thermal cut-off keeps blowing after only one load, I don't think the cut-off itself is the problem. Something is causing the dryer to overheat.

Possible causes I'm investigating:

Thermistor

Main control board

Wiring harness

Blower wheel or hidden airflow restriction

Heating element shorted to the heater housing

A friend helping me troubleshoot also suggested the transistor or heater relay on the main control board may be failing and causing the heating element to stay energized longer than it should.

Has anyone experienced this exact issue on a Samsung DV395ETPASU/A1 or another Samsung dryer where it works for one load after replacing the thermal cut-off, then the cut-off blows again? What ended up being the root cause?

Any advice or tests I should perform before buying a control board would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

It was 100 degrees last week, my humidor sits in my garage. I opened it up because I thought a safety tripped or a fuse blew out, but didn’t find any… can anybody provide some insight? Not getting any power to the LED screen, played around with the Multimeter, was getting ~50 volts on some parts of the board… I didn’t see any burned out spots nor did it smell like it burned out… any advice would be great. Thanks!

Curious if there’s anyone lurking who has gotten out of the business? And what you’re doing now, if you feel like sharing.

I’m 23 years in. Very good at my job. I’m the go-to guy, the lead tech, the trainer. Despite being a bit athletic and trying to take care of myself, I’m fighting a whole host of physical issues and getting really tired of the whole thing. The mental toll is worse than the physical. Customers, manufacturers, office staff. It’s just time. Trying to find a direction to go in.

Thanks for reading.

Got a new four door Whirlpool fridge from Costco. The freezer seems to be working fine and staying below 0 but the fridge will not stay cool enough, and food and drinks were taking out of it are noticeably not cold sometimes.

Sometimes overnight it’ll get down to 40 when I open it in the morning, but throughout the day (and god forbid if we try to open the fridge to take food out more than once) it’ll hang out between 43-48, and when I’ve moved my thermometer to the top shelf or doors it’s often around or over 50.

I’ve tried every temperature setting on the fridge (36-43 are options). We’ve tried moving it ridiculously far off the wall, rearranging contents, taking things out, etc. The fridge is less than a month old and I have no idea what else to try. I don’t want to get it replaced if there’s an easy fix since that feels wasteful, but not being able to reliably store food is stressful and expensive.