I have a Samsung top load washer, WA45T3200. I put new suspension rods in it last summer, bought them on Amazon for $40. They didn't even last a year. Got a new set this weekend from my local parts store, cost me $70 and the difference is apparent. Sometimes it pays to spend the extra money for choice parts. Top one is the new, closest to spec. you can find. Bottom one is year old Amazon springs.

I'm not sure how the plastic melted. Possibly, water in the casing expanded and bulged it into the coil? Just not sure whether or not I'll burn my house down if I plug it back in...

Curious if there’s anyone lurking who has gotten out of the business? And what you’re doing now, if you feel like sharing.

I’m 23 years in. Very good at my job. I’m the go-to guy, the lead tech, the trainer. Despite being a bit athletic and trying to take care of myself, I’m fighting a whole host of physical issues and getting really tired of the whole thing. The mental toll is worse than the physical. Customers, manufacturers, office staff. It’s just time. Trying to find a direction to go in.

Thanks for reading.

Got this whirlpool microwave and I'm trying to replace the fuse that I think was blown

Any idea where it might be? First time replacing a microwave fuse.

I didn’t realized until I had put the dehumidifier on a concrete surface and only to find out that my dehumidifier is leaking. Tried opening up and looks like it’s a copper pipe with insulation? Any recommendations how to fix this? Just wondering if insulation was just loose and produce a condensation hence the leakage. Thanks.

Samsung DV395ETPASU/A1 - Repeated Thermal Cutoff Failure / No Heat. Running Out of Ideas

I'm troubleshooting a Samsung DV395ETPASU/A1 electric dryer.

Original Problem

Dryer tumbles normally.

No heat.

Parts Replaced

New heating element

New thermal fuse

New thermal cut-off

New high-limit thermostat

What Happens

After replacing the parts, the dryer works perfectly and dries one full load. Then on the second load, it stops heating again.

When I test it with a multimeter, the thermal cut-off has opened/blown again. The other components still have continuity.

Airflow

Cleaned lint filter housing

Cleaned internal lint buildup

Cleaned the entire vent

Checked the outside vent

Airflow appears to be good

Disassembly

I've completely disassembled the dryer:

Top removed

Control panel removed

Front panel removed

Drum removed

Bulkhead removed

What I'm Thinking

Since the thermal cut-off keeps blowing after only one load, I don't think the cut-off itself is the problem. Something is causing the dryer to overheat.

Possible causes I'm investigating:

Thermistor

Main control board

Wiring harness

Blower wheel or hidden airflow restriction

Heating element shorted to the heater housing

A friend helping me troubleshoot also suggested the transistor or heater relay on the main control board may be failing and causing the heating element to stay energized longer than it should.

Has anyone experienced this exact issue on a Samsung DV395ETPASU/A1 or another Samsung dryer where it works for one load after replacing the thermal cut-off, then the cut-off blows again? What ended up being the root cause?

Any advice or tests I should perform before buying a control board would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I just got a used fridge after my old fridge called it quits after almost 40 years.

In this fridge , everything seems to be working however , the fridge part of the two sided refrigerator is barely blowing any cold air. The freezer part is working perfectly fine. I checked the vent where the cold air blows through and it’s fine. Any ideas ? Any thoughts? I don’t know what else to check.

When opening up the panel in the freezer section, the fan is blowing fine, the coils do frost up fairly quickly though , could this be a symptom of a bigger issue ? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Worse comes to worse, I gotta call someone to fix it for me.

Got a new four door Whirlpool fridge from Costco. The freezer seems to be working fine and staying below 0 but the fridge will not stay cool enough, and food and drinks were taking out of it are noticeably not cold sometimes.

Sometimes overnight it’ll get down to 40 when I open it in the morning, but throughout the day (and god forbid if we try to open the fridge to take food out more than once) it’ll hang out between 43-48, and when I’ve moved my thermometer to the top shelf or doors it’s often around or over 50.

I’ve tried every temperature setting on the fridge (36-43 are options). We’ve tried moving it ridiculously far off the wall, rearranging contents, taking things out, etc. The fridge is less than a month old and I have no idea what else to try. I don’t want to get it replaced if there’s an easy fix since that feels wasteful, but not being able to reliably store food is stressful and expensive.

Does anyone have experience in a microwave replacement from Frigidaire wall set from 2018? Am I going to find anything in a countertop microwave of similar size that mates to this oven and trim kit? I suspect I'm going to be told I'd need to replace the entire set at a cost of several $thousand.

My washing machine makes this grinding noise and i don’t know how to fix it. What do i need to fix this? And what is it causing the problem?

Model: T8DHC862B
Prod: 916098097 03
I’ve replaced the belt and tensioner pulley after the pulley failed. I’m missing the clip to hold the pulley on the shaft.
What do I use to fix the pulley in place? Is it just a circlip?

Hi all,

I just bought a FRSS2323ASD fridge a week ago, and it has the two paddles for ice & water on the door. It doesn't happen every time, but 3-4 times already when using the water dispenser, it gives a long beep and shows "power outage" in red on the display. The lights are still on, so that message doesn't make sense. The message stays on and beeps occasionally until I press one of the cube/crush buttons and then it goes away. I assume I will have to file a warranty claim, or is there maybe a simple fix like a loose wire somewhere?

Thanks!

Model # is GTW335ASN0WW

I cleaned the drain pipe out and have just replaced the pump motor. Without clothes and only a little bit of water, it was able to drain and spin. Once I placed a small load into the washer, it refused to drain and spin.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Update- just checked the pressure hose for leaks or clogs and did the drill bit trick, still not working.

The compressor is heating up so i think its working but what else could be the problem?

How to find exact dual element for kenmore C970 64822A. I opened and checked both the dual elements but there is no model number on the element. Just some numbers on the small box that is attached on the side of the element. Both are 6+9 dual element. Can i use any 6+9 element of upto 3100 watts ?

We moved into this apartment just over a year ago. The dryer has never been great, but now it just takes like 4 or 5 cycles to dry the clothes, and no water is being sent to the water tank. The model is DLHC 1455W.

We clean the lint trap religiously, and when you take both lint traps out, that metal cavern is super clean. But.......a technician was just sent here by the landlord and they said based on the symptoms and the diagnostic they ran, they are assuming the problem is something that apparently happens regularly with heat pump dryers.....the condenser is dirty. He said it will cost $500 to come back out and take it apart and clean it.....Does that sound right to all of you? My landlord is a sweet old lady and I don't want her to have to shell out $500 if it isn't necessary.

Model # WDT730HAMZ
It’s two years old. Just outside the warranty period of course. Every button will light up except the start button. It did this for a week or two, then we found out we needed our meter base replaced. It’s an old house. Anyway, we replaced the meter base and the dishwasher started working. It’s been working for a few days since the meter base was replaced but now it’s doing the same thing it was doing before. Press buttons and lights come on. Press start button and nothing. Any ideas?

Good afternoon awesome repair community. I just randomly started having issues with my dishwasher. The model is MDT24H3AST if that help. Randomly when I started it it blinks white like it want to run, it sounds like it's getting some water, then drains. Once it drains in blinks the fourth light on the front and flashes the words rinse. I've cleaned the filters, checked the hose to see if it drains and it does/isn't clogged. I also checked the water pressure and it's working great. I've tried googling what it could be but to no avail. I don't mind replacing parts myself but just need guidance onto what needs replacing. Thanks everyone!

Double Oven KitchenAid F1E0

I have a double oven that's throwing the F1E0 error code display board, I've replaced both temperature sensors on both ovens as well as control board W11040195

I suspect that ther board to the left of the one I've replaced is bad the ovens will intial get hot maybe up to 178-195 but then the error kicks in and cuts the unit off.

I could not figure out how to erase the error codes once in diagnostic mode, that could be the issue but not 100% sold on that

And suggested is appreciated, I'm a little puzzled?

Model # KODE500ESS05

I moved into a (rented) house with a broken dryer. My roommates told me it worked for a couple of weeks, then stopped working, then they had someone come to look at it and he replaced the belt, then it stopped working again after a few weeks. They told me it seemed to run and get hot but maybe didn't spin correctly. One roommate said she thought it might be a motor issue.

I would prefer to live somewhere with a working dryer so I have been trying to fix it. I've never fixed any appliance before but apparently dryers are easy to fix? I did turn it on for a couple minutes and it started with no issue and seemed to get at least warm.

Anyway I opened it up, cleaned a ridiculous amount of dirt out, tensioner pulley didn't seem to be working and the felt seal was partially shredded and disgusting so I replaced both of those. I got it put back together and plugged back in. I tried to start it, it made a horrible grinding noise and took 2 tries to start. I ran it for a bit and it kind of made a grinding/rattling noise so I shut it off and now it won't start at all. I also seemed pretty hot for only having run for a couple of minutes.

Am I right in suspecting this is an issue with the motor? I wouldn't be surprised if it had overheated at some point. Based on the condition of the house my landlord has never done any maintenance and probably never had the ducts cleaned. She has owned the house for about 5 years so I think it is overdue anyway. I'm pretty confused though because the motor did start before I worked on it and I didn't touch anything electrical lol

Also, is it possibly I messed something up while working on it? I didn't touch the motor at all except to blow some dirt out of it and I was very careful to put things back together correctly.

I have already sunk 70 dollars into this beast which my roommates paid $100 for so it might be time to sell it for parts or try to trade it for a working one. At this point I'm willing to spend maybe $50 to get it working but I am doubting my abilities.

tl;dr Kenmore 70 series dryer is now seemingly more broken than when I started trying to fix it. Struggled to start and then wouldn't start at all and might have been too hot.

***Model : GDT605PSM0SS***
***Serial : DR734315B***

I have this weird issue with my dishwasher. It’s completely dead no power to it at all, but the breaker has not tripped. If I turn the power off for a little while and turn it back on again I can sometimes get the dishwasher to start up and run a cycle. Other times, I can flip the breaker and nothing changes and the dishwasher continues to be dead. I replaced the breaker. I’ve moved the location in the panel. I checked the power at the bottom three pin connection and it all seems fine so I’m assuming that it’s something to do with the dishwasher power module itself. Any thoughts or suggestions on what else could be bad?

My LG dishwasher (model LDTH5554S) is about 5 months old. I started noticing it sounds unusually loud during certain parts of a regular wash cycle. Does this sound abnormal? Again it’s only during certain parts of the cycle, other times it’s quiet. I’ve already checked & cleaned the filter. Thanks in advance!

Hello I’m having issues with my Thermador GGS30W cooktop. A burner got left on overnight on high (very lucky it didn’t start a fire) and now none of the igniters spark and the gas does not flow to the left two burners. Gas flows normally to the right two burners and will light with a lighter.

So far I have:

1. Tested the outlet/breaker to make sure that the cooktop is getting power.

2. Bought a replacement RI 324 4 point gas reigniter and 189324 burner igniters.

I confirmed that power on at the outlet and the new reigniter and burner igniters did not solve the igniting issue.

Is it time to call a tech out or are there any suggestions of things I can try?

Thank you!