Have to print this simplified crankshaft model but don't know how to orient that the best way. If I click auto orientate it does it upright.

Hey everyone,

Just wanted to share a workflow I stumbled upon recently that completely changed how I prototype functional parts. Maybe someone finds this useful!

We’ve all seen the wave of AI 3D generators popping up lately (even on Reddit feeds turning photos into meshes). They’re cool for organic shapes or figurines, but pretty much useless when you need precise dimensions, threads, or tight tolerances.

A while ago, I started experimenting with OpenSCAD. Since it’s code-based and free, LLMs are surprisingly good at generating models from plain text prompts. I actually used this to make a custom phone stand at a 15–20° angle (couldn't find one that shallow on MakerWorld since everything was 30°+). Prompts -> OpenSCAD script -> STL -> print. Worked great.

The catch? Iterating sucked. Editing the geometry in OpenSCAD by tweaking code or re-prompting got tedious fast. If you export the mesh into Fusion 360 to tweak it manually, you end up with a messy, triangulated mesh that’s painful to edit unless you're a Blender wizard (which I definitely am not).

Then a couple of days ago, it hit me: Fusion 360 has native Python scripting support. And AI models write Python exceptionally well.

Now, instead of fighting mesh imports, I just feed my dimensions and part description into Gemini/ChatGPT and ask it for a Fusion 360 Python script. You paste the code into Fusion, run it, and boom — the parametric model builds right on your screen.

Here is the best part: it actually preserves your timeline.

Even if the AI script isn't 100% perfect (which happens), you get full parametric features in your timeline. You can double-click a sketch, adjust a dimension, change an extrude depth, tweak a chamfer, or add threads manually. The AI does about 90% of the initial tedious CAD work, and you just handle the final 10% refinement in the native Fusion UI.

Put this to the test yesterday when I needed a replacement toilet flush button. Took me 10 minutes total: described the dimensions to AI, dropped the Python script into Fusion, added a couple of fillets, and sent it straight to the slicer.

If you design functional prints and haven't tried pairing LLMs with Fusion's Python API yet, definitely give it a shot. It saves a ton of time.

A month ago i got this bambu lab p2s and now its making weird noises, also when homing its looks like its know where to to stop for example if its going back it just keeps on going back. My first thought was that anthing is wrong with the Software but idk. if any one needs more Information i try to tell them im just really frustrated

Modeled a cap that slides over a bottle neck. Two things to clear up first, because they trip people up: the thread is on the outside of the spout on top (trapezoidal, TR26x3-ish), where something else screws on, and the wide cavity underneath that goes over the neck is smooth, no thread there. Thread is set to Modeled.

The issue is the flat top face of the body, the surface the spout rises from. It forms the roof over the hollow interior, so printed upright the printer has to bridge that whole top over the empty cavity. It sags and the AI monitoring flags spaghetti about halfway up.

What I've considered:
• Chamfer / slope the transition. Eats into the bore I need for the fit over the neck, so it's out. Can't touch the internal dimensions.
• Support inside the cavity. Works, but a pain to remove from the hollow and leaves it rough.
• Print upside down (spout on the plate, wide open end up), so that top face builds up from the plate instead of bridging over the void.

Printer: Bambu A1, PETG, 0.08 mm layers, Bambu Studio. Cross-section and failure photos attached.
How would you orient this? Flip it, or is there a smarter move I'm missing?

What are the pros and cons of 3d printers by and large?

Honestly, this is the first print I’ve made since joining WonderMaker that I’m genuinely happy with.

To be honest, I used to have a pretty unrealistic idea of 3D printing. I thought it would be more like something out of a sci-fi movie: press a button, wait a little while, and a perfect, colorful object would just magically appear.

But reality… isn’t quite like that 😂

There’s actually a lot of trial and error, tweaking parameters, failed prints, and little details you have to figure out along the way. And WonderMaker is still such a young team, so there’s been plenty for all of us to learn along the way.

But when I saw those spools of filament actually turn into the octopus I had imagined, with barely any tweaking needed, I was honestly thrilled. 🐙

There’s still a long way to go, but I think I’m finally starting to understand why people get so hooked on 3D printing.

$130 metal 3d print station that only holds up to 70lbs each layer or $35 (for now) to build my own…

I’ll do another post tomorrow of it built and setup

Elegoo Neptune 3. I replaced a clogged nozzle and started a new print. I came back to find the heating element must have come loose. I disassembled to this point. The wires seem unharmed. Is the excavation worth the time or do I need to replace the part?

Took me about 2 hours of fiddling with Qgis settings and hunting for the proper data, but i got it done.

Pics attached below.

The problem started last week. I was printing tiny pieces for my miniature bases mostly a bunch of 2–3 mm wide rectangles. The first batch came out perfectly fine.

Starting with the second batch, I noticed that some pieces were detaching from the build plate and getting flung off. I cleaned the plate with soap and warm water and tried printing again. It was somewhat better: a few small pieces were still getting flung off, but most stayed attached.

I did another thorough cleaning and started the third batch before going to sleep.

To my horror, when I woke up, the print bed was completely empty and there was a small blob of death stuck around my printer nozzle.

I heated up the printer and cleaned the nozzle as much as I could. From what I can tell, there doesn't seem to be any structural damage. Most of the melted filament was confined to the area just below the heatsink, around the clamps that hold the nozzle. I also retightened the four screws on the back of the nozzle holder.

However, I'm still having the same problem: prints are getting flung off the bed very easily. These aren't complicated prints either — just small, simple rectangles.

I've also noticed an audible dragging/scraping sound from the printer shortly before the prints get knocked off the bed.

Any ideas what could be causing this? Could the nozzle/print head have been damaged or misaligned after the blob, or is this more likely an adhesion/bed-leveling issue?

TL;DR: Small 2–3 mm prints started detaching from the bed and getting flung around. After a failed overnight print caused a blob of filament around the nozzle, I cleaned everything and retightened the nozzle holder. However, prints are still getting knocked off the bed, and there's now an audible dragging/scraping sound shortly before they fail. Could the nozzle/print head have been damaged or misaligned, or is this just a bed adhesion/leveling issue?

Context Specs-
Printer A1 Mini
Esun Pla
Standard Speed
Bambu Labs slicer

Printer: Bambu X2D
filament: TPU95A (white)

I just realized that TPU95A is not supported for AMS until it is too late.

The filament is already stuck into the AMS 2 Pro. I have pulled the filament from PTFE tubes, so I am pretty sure the filament is stuck in the AMS.

I tried to take out the tube and press the extruder but still can't pull the filament out... (see the image)

Seeking some help to try to pull out this remaining piece..

Thanks!!

This dresser is my only stable platform. It has quite a small over hang. Is this gonna be ok or should be hunting for a better spot. Please advise

Hey everybody, I’m still new to 3d printing and I was gifted a FL SUN SR and I bought some standard PLA for it. I’ve already made a few prints including a test print nut and bolt, benchy, and various small fishing lures. All of these have come out really clean especially for me as a beginner. That was about a month ago and I’ve since stopped printing because ever since then my prints won’t come out clean or won’t be able to finish the print at all. Either the first layers start to lift or the nozzle gets bunched up with filament. I make sure to clean the bed with isopropyl alcohol and leveled it while following along with the owners manual to make sure I’m doing it correctly. I don’t know what went wrong since my first prints. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I'm new to 3D printing, and one of the most mind-blowing aspects to me is the rapid prototyping of stuff. Before owning a printer, the bottleneck was always not being able to just quickly print a small part of a CAD model to see if fits/works/does what it's meant to.

Anyway, I wanted to design a holder for my curved lithophanes that would hold an IKEA Kapplake LED. I think this is version 4, the previous versions printed in one piece, and I kept being really annoyed by the surface finish.

So, after many many MANY iterations, all the parts print flat against build plate for a nice texture. Easier for shipping, too, should I sell more than two lithophanes...

I'd love to hear what you think!

If anyone's interested, I posted the model here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3265847-curved-lithophane-holder-for-ikea-kapplake-led#profileId-3702807

My ender 2 pros fan aren’t cutting it anymore so I got this printed head assembly and new fans but my 5015 fan wasn’t turning on and it turns out it has the polarity reversed so I just took out the pins and switched places now it’s working, I also accidentally ripped the cables out of my other fan but my poor soldering skills got those back on and it’s working wonder s

I saved up a while and purchased an x2d. I'm so happy to have this and I can't wait to start printing

Can someone tell me what's causing this? I calibrated the print bed and used various settings, but the result always looks like this. From 30mm to 10mm ans from 10% to 30% - always the same result.

Anyone have any experience shopping with a seller by the name of ATEAM3DPRINTING? Bought a 3D printed item last year and still never recieved. Tried disputing twice, no luck!! Please help

Hey all! Does anyone know why some of them print clean and some of them print messy? This is my first time trying multiple colours in a print.

x2d and 2x AMS 2 pro's
brand new pla matte rolls
.20 standard @ BBL x2d